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Critique my picture round 2 - three lights!

My wife wasn't able to find any suitable "real lights" thus far so this picture is using 3 LED's.

What do you guys think? I like the picture, but I want comments on additional ways to improve. (We are looking at finding "real" lights.)

image

Here is the giant version of the image in case you need more clarity:

https://secure.0si.com/limages/20110608152623843.jpg

Comments

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    relicsncoinsrelicsncoins Posts: 8,289 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Excellent photo and not a bad coin either.
    Need a Barber Half with ANACS photo certificate. If you have one for sale please PM me. Current Ebay auctions
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    canadanzcanadanz Posts: 618 ✭✭
    Great photo! You should try to polish the slab though. I see some scuff marks in the bottom right.
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    << <i>Great photo! You should try to polish the slab though. I see some scuff marks in the bottom right. >>



    I ordered a couple bottles of http://slabrenew.com just now to clean this and other holders.
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    messydeskmessydesk Posts: 20,793 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I see a hazy spot almost dead center on the braid, too, that should be polished.

    Over all, this picture is an improvement over the first.
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    keyman64keyman64 Posts: 15,650 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I like a brighter face on Merc Dimes. The entire front of the face and front of the head is in a harsh shadow. The bottom of the coin could use a little more light as well. I would look into repositioning the lights.

    Here are two styles that show a brighter face:
    image

    image
    "If it's not fun, it's not worth it." - KeyMan64
    Not really looking for much these days but if I were, it might be a toner. :smile:
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    keyman64keyman64 Posts: 15,650 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Here's another style that accomplishes less shadow
    image
    "If it's not fun, it's not worth it." - KeyMan64
    Not really looking for much these days but if I were, it might be a toner. :smile:
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    keyman64keyman64 Posts: 15,650 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Oh, just to clarify...the three examples I posted...I am not saying they are perfect or right...but each one does allow for a brighter front of the face and head and that is what I like and would have you aim for....so you can see the definition in the lips, nose, forehead hair etc...

    The 31-D is the worst image. (Heritage Photo)
    The 28-S is the next best image. (A Photo I Actually Took)
    The 43-S is the best out of the ones I posted...in my opinion. (A Photo BlueCC/Todd Took)
    "If it's not fun, it's not worth it." - KeyMan64
    Not really looking for much these days but if I were, it might be a toner. :smile:
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    << <i>Oh, just to clarify...the three examples I posted...I am not saying they are perfect or right...but each one does allow for a brighter front of the face and head and that is what I like and would have you aim for....so you can see the definition in the lips, nose, forehead hair etc...

    The 31-D is the worst image. (Heritage Photo)
    The 28-S is the next best image. (A Photo I Actually Took)
    The 43-S is the best out of the ones I posted...in my opinion. (A Photo BlueCC/Todd Took) >>



    You are right, I'll play with the light on the face tomorrow!
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    cheezhedcheezhed Posts: 6,349 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I like it, you're on the right track.

    Try increasing the exposure or use exposure compensation (+).

    Many happy BST transactions
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    pmh1nicpmh1nic Posts: 3,501 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>Great photo! You should try to polish the slab though. I see some scuff marks in the bottom right. >>



    Or just crack it out image.
    The longer I live the more convincing proofs I see of this truth, that God governs in the affairs of men. And if a sparrow cannot fall to the ground without His notice is it possible for an empire to rise without His aid? Benjamin Franklin
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    mgoodm3mgoodm3 Posts: 17,497 ✭✭✭
    nice pics. The LEDs have a little too much contrast, even with 3 lights for me.

    I would also like more light from the top - big shadow across the top of the bust.

    Very sharp picture.
    coinimaging.com/my photography articles Check out the new macro lens testing section
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    rmpsrpmsrmpsrpms Posts: 1,976 ✭✭✭✭✭
    LED's are very "small" sources. Basically all the light comes from a single point about 1mm across that is expanded to a wider area with a diverging lens. This creates local shadows and hot spots on the coin surfaces, especially ones with lots of luster like the OP's, creating the high contrast that mgoodm3 mentions, and also causing the blue/speckly/red effect that blu62vette mentioned in a previous post. A solution is to make the source look "larger" by adding some diffusion. the easiest method is to put some translucent white paper over the LED lens. The farther away from the LED the paper is placed, the "larger" the light source will appear. Basically the LED light hits the paper and re-scatters as it passes through the paper, so that it now appears to come from the paper, which is much larger than the LED. Less of the light reflects specularly off the "luster mirrors" due to the light hitting the coin from multiple angles, and more light hits the shadowy areas.

    Keep in mind that the so-called "LED lights" being sold today are in reality "super-compact fluorescents". The LEDs are actually narrow-band blue/near-UV, and are covered with phosphorescent material similar to that used inside fluorescent and compact fluorescent bulbs. Until recently LEDs have suffered from too much "blue-bleed", ie the phosphors have not been efficient enough or thick enough to block all the blue/near-UV light coming directly from the LED, so they have had a spike in the spectrum around blue. The more recent ones have pushed the emitter frequencies up, increasing phosphor efficiency and creating a much better spectrum.

    Ray
    PM me for coin photography equipment, or visit my website:

    http://macrocoins.com

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