I guess it would depend on what the improperly cleaned coin looked like. Sometimes it's minor and something I can live with. Sometimes it's harsh and unforgivable.
Those coins I've sold at auction with disclosure about having been cleaned often go for half of what they might otherwise sell for. That's not a guide I would necessarily use but just food for thought. Lance.
You mean NCS ? I bought a NCS 1936 proof cent that was cleaned from a mail order dealer. It had harsh lines, but I sent it t cross as a Genuine coin to PCGS and the thing came back PR 62 - evidently those hairlines on proofs can be tricky.
WS
Proud recipient of the coveted PCGS Forum "You Suck" Award Thursday July 19, 2007 11:33 PM and December 30th, 2011 at 8:50 PM.
Rather than using a fixed % or dollar amount, I usually look at the next grade or two, down from there, and consider the extent/harshness of the cleaning.
For example, if you have a cleaned Seated Dollar with a details grade of AU, if it is somewhat lightly cleaned, it might be worth approximately XF money, whereas if it is harshly cleaned, it might be worth VF money. That said, there is no correct rule of thumb, and each coin should be priced, based on it's own merits.
Comments
Those coins I've sold at auction with disclosure about having been cleaned often go for half of what they might otherwise sell for. That's not a guide I would necessarily use but just food for thought.
Lance.
WS
TRUTH
For example, if you have a cleaned Seated Dollar with a details grade of AU, if it is somewhat lightly cleaned, it might be worth approximately XF money, whereas if it is harshly cleaned, it might be worth VF money. That said, there is no correct rule of thumb, and each coin should be priced, based on it's own merits.
<< <i>I can usually get 40% of greysheet bid for the net grade.
TRUTH >>
Just sold a 4 figure coin this weekend for about that amount. Don't do it.