collectors of 2009P formative years cents wanting to have a discussion
pitboss
Posts: 8,643 ✭✭✭
I just had a gentleman offer me 10 WDDR006's for $85.00. I thought that would be a good buy seeing as how my coin budget has decreased since I retired.
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The name is LEE!
Do I hear a mouse squeeking?
Thank you for the retirement blessings. I started out by getting one knee replaced and sure have not enjoyed that so far.
I too think the WDDR 006 is going to be a good one to have in the long run as there are not many of them and even less available.
Thank you constantine and onedollarnoholler for the support.
There were, what, 90,000 LP1 sets sold; and they go for on avg. $75+.
One dollar worth or business strike coins wrapped in special paper for $75....
How many "Skeletons" do you see for sale?
I don't know how many coins a die can produce, but if the skeletons are that prevalent.........where are they?
The WDDO-002 Die was paired with 3 different reverses; WDDR-006, WDDR-007, and finally the non-ddr reverse.
Which came first; 006 or 007?
How long did each reverse last; 100k coins? With the fatal die cracks known, did they even produce that many?
<< <i>You know what I don't get?
There were, what, 90,000 LP1 sets sold; and they go for on avg. $75+.
One dollar worth or business strike coins wrapped in special paper for $75....
How many "Skeletons" do you see for sale?
I don't know how many coins a die can produce, but if the skeletons are that prevalent.........where are they?
The WDDO-002 Die was paired with 3 different reverses; WDDR-006, WDDR-007, and finally the non-ddr reverse.
Which came first; 006 or 007?
How long did each reverse last; 100k coins? With the fatal die cracks known, did they even produce that many? >>
Also Papi, the skeletons were found only in the 4/23 boxes and within a certain time period for even just that one day of production. Yes, some made their way to bank rolls but with now the progressive die crack on the reverse. Die failed quickly no doubt.
<< <i>Also Papi, the skeletons were found only in the 4/23 boxes and within a certain time period for even just that one day of production. Yes, some made their way to bank rolls but with now the progressive die crack on the reverse. Die failed quickly no doubt. >>
For the record; I did find a Skeleton in a 4/24 box, just one.
I didn't look through any other 4/24, although I have some. I mentioned it somewhere in another thread.
I've never read of any other similar find.
I think it was probably just a straggler from 4/23
<< <i>You know what I don't get?
There were, what, 90,000 LP1 sets sold; and they go for on avg. $75+.
One dollar worth or business strike coins wrapped in special paper for $75....
How many "Skeletons" do you see for sale?
I don't know how many coins a die can produce, but if the skeletons are that prevalent.........where are they?
The WDDO-002 Die was paired with 3 different reverses; WDDR-006, WDDR-007, and finally the non-ddr reverse.
Which came first; 006 or 007?
How long did each reverse last; 100k coins? With the fatal die cracks known, did they even produce that many? >>
With all the die cracks through the LP 2 series as you say, I also believe quite a few had short lives. That design was stress full on the dies. I have heard alot of different figures but someone must have some knowledge on this.
Successful Trades: Swampboy,
Isn't it nice to have a conversation without having the turmoil.
I now have 70 of the 006's and will continue to pick them up slowly as I go along when I can find any.
I don't have the money to be buying any unopened boxes anymore.
Grab what you can find of the good date boxes if you can afford them though.
As far as the LP1 sets go, what good are they?
Successful Trades: Swampboy,
I really don't know anything about this coin. I know I have 1 or 2 of them someplace. I must have a bunch of die cracks in those 1000's of coins that I have to recheck sometime.
<< <i>What do all of you think about WDDR-13 with the large rev die crack? I kept alot of those also. >>
I Love all those huge cracks. I buy them when I can, but only found 1 in a 4/16 box, and others kinds in bank rolls
CoinCrazy PA, I do like the WDDR-13 with the large rev die crack. It is one of those things where the DDR is pretty minor, but the die crack is pretty major. So if one likes die cracks, then it is an interesting coin, especially considering you can see it a mile away. As far as a variety collector and DDRs, I prefer some of the other coins in the series though.
Do you guys/gals have any of the "catfish" Abe lincolns? The one with the die clash under Abe's chin that looks like whiskers? They seem to be pretty common. However, I saw on eBay a while back a seller that had versions of the same die clash but much stronger and more prominent. Looked like a very strong clash all over the obverse of the coin and looked like fire breathing out of Abe's mouth. It was a much more stronger version of the common catfish coins we see. I missed out on the bid as it wen't for more I thought it would. I think around $50/$75 but it was a winner in my book. Anyone see it or have one?
<< <i>Do you guys/gals have any of the "catfish" Abe lincolns? The one with the die clash under Abe's chin that looks like whiskers? They seem to be pretty common. However, I saw on eBay a while back a seller that had versions of the same die clash but much stronger and more prominent. Looked like a very strong clash all over the obverse of the coin and looked like fire breathing out of Abe's mouth. It was a much more stronger version of the common catfish coins we see. I missed out on the bid as it wen't for more I thought it would. I think around $50/$75 but it was a winner in my book. Anyone see it or have one? >>
Yes, I have. I've seen it referred to as the "Fire Breathing Dragon". Very dramatic, extremely strong clash.
I didn't buy one, 'cause I tried to find them myself. Kicking myself now.
I think the seller had it listed on another auction site for $75, but I can't remember where I saw it. It's been a while.
"Catfish" Abe is abundant. I've found him in bank rolls too. Although, I've never examined them closely enough to see if they are the same die pairs.
I asked, he said they were from 06/09/09 boxes. Have any DDRs been found in this date?
Mint Rolls 2009 P
More Mint Rolls 2009 P
There have been no reports of any that I can remember.
I do have about 300 of the catfish abe coins but they are locked up in the safe and I am a few weeks away from being able to get at them with this knee replacement so I can't tell you if I have any of those coins you are talking about.
Catfish dieclashes: those were so plentiful in the LP2 boxes I stopped looking after hundreds set aside. Don't recall seeing any "enhanced" varieties since I only looked at the reverses.
Skeleton fingers are tough to find now. I see very few LP2's of that vintage any more.
<< <i>I haven't seen the fire breathing dragon error but it sounds interesting...certainly more interesting than the catfish error. >>
He's a link to see the extremely deep clash.
The Ebay seller referred to this as the "Fire Breathing Dragon"
DVN Magazine 15 Go to page 30
I don't recall seeing any of those either but I also gave up looking for them because I had so many already.
produced later than April 30. Interesting though. How common are these compared to the very common "catfishers"?
Sort of rather ugly toned on the reverse, and the obverse..well, looks like it got run over a few times.
But, that is the very first one of these Ive seen.
I used to be famous now I just collect coins.
Link to My Registry Set.
https://pcgs.com/setregistry/quarters/washington-quarters-specialty-sets/washington-quarters-complete-variety-set-circulation-strikes-1932-1964/publishedset/78469
Varieties Are The Spice Of LIFE and Thanks to Those who teach us what to search For.
That would explain why I don't have any then. I have not looked through any bank rolls.
Did you see the 200 WDDR 002's for sale by 7over8 on the BST forum?
<< <i>Did you see the 200 WDDR 002's for sale by 7over8 on the BST forum? >>
Without knowing any grades ?? Sorry, I'd need to know.
Speaking of grades. I've been trying to learn, on my own, by buying graded examples to compare.
I have a ANACS MS67 002.
It has one bag mark on the face. On the reverse; the index finger, book spine, and knuckles have light contact marks. There's also a ding on the rim.
So, how many contact marks can a 68, 69, 70 have? I'm assuming a 70 is zero & probably doesn't exist in a business strike. So does that mean a 69 has zero also?
I would say pretty close to that papi. I have a bunch of 67's and do not recall many bag marks or spots but I can't get them out of the safe for a few more weeks until this knee allows me too so I can not recheck them at this point.
<< <i>
<< <i>Did you see the 200 WDDR 002's for sale by 7over8 on the BST forum? >>
Without knowing any grades ?? Sorry, I'd need to know.
Speaking of grades. I've been trying to learn, on my own, by buying graded examples to compare.
I have a ANACS MS67 002.
It has one bag mark on the face. On the reverse; the index finger, book spine, and knuckles have light contact marks. There's also a ding on the rim.
So, how many contact marks can a 68, 69, 70 have? I'm assuming a 70 is zero & probably doesn't exist in a business strike. So does that mean a 69 has zero also? >>
An ANACS 67 would most likely equate to a PCGS 64 or 65. The are very loose grading moderns. I know because I submitted some DDR-13's that 67'd much to my surprise. They(ANACS) were the only ones to make serious $$ on these errors, except for the very early sellers of these "high" grade ANACS examples. A true 67 is would not have any noticeable marks in the primary focal areas. You are describing a typical PCGS 65 or 64.
<< <i>An ANACS 67 would most likely equate to a PCGS 64 or 65. The are very loose grading moderns. I know because I submitted some DDR-13's that 67'd much to my surprise. They(ANACS) were the only ones to make serious $$ on these errors, except for the very early sellers of these "high" grade ANACS examples. A true 67 is would not have any noticeable marks in the primary focal areas. You are describing a typical PCGS 65 or 64. >>
I have an NGC WDDR-002 graded MS66, that has more obverse marks than the ANACS 67. So, who has "loose" standards?
That's why I'm trying to find out. What is the criteria? Are there a specific amount of acceptable marks for each grade?
It would be nice if it were as simple as
0 marks 70
1-2 marks 69
3-4 marks 68
5-8 marks 67
9-12 marks 66
etc etc etc
I didnt take the time to grade 200 WDDR-002's. They are all from USM fresh rolls. If you looked at my price on the BST, it isnt worth my time to grade - if I did so, I would grade the cream of the crop and sell the others off.
It's an unsearched lot......at a very fair price, but that's not for this forum.
It's a quantity deal if you want to "put them back" for a while and sit on them for potential gain later.
Box of 20
<< <i>PCGS is tough or you can call it accurate, but either way a 65/66 2009 FY in a PCGS holder looks near perfect with hardly any if no contact marks. You have to look hard to find any blemishes. I am sure the criteria for contact marks loosens to NGC and then greater for ANACS. The only thing I know for certain is that a 65 in PCGS looks dang nice and in general, one's top picks from a raw grouping would probably come back a 65/66. Look at the pop reports for all the 2009 cents with PCGS and it says a lot. >>
This is why I want to see PCGS grade these coins, so I can send my best one's to them for grading. I am not even interested in what NGC does or says because of there weak grading standards. What we have right now is ANACS and from what I have seen they did not do a bad job. I will send 10 of my ANACS WDDR 001's MS67 and 10 of my ANACS WDDR 002's MS67 to PCGS for regrading and then we will know what the difference is. How's that .
<< <i>Papi
I didnt take the time to grade 200 WDDR-002's. They are all from USM fresh rolls. If you looked at my price on the BST, it isnt worth my time to grade - if I did so, I would grade the cream of the crop and sell the others off.
It's an unsearched lot......at a very fair price, but that's not for this forum.
It's a quantity deal if you want to "put them back" for a while and sit on them for potential gain later. >>
7over8
Without a doubt, that is a great price
<< <i>Did you see the 200 WDDR 002's for sale by 7over8 on the BST forum? >>
I did, did one of you buy them?
edited: posted before,I read through
Successful Trades: Swampboy,
<< <i>
<< <i>PCGS is tough or you can call it accurate, but either way a 65/66 2009 FY in a PCGS holder looks near perfect with hardly any if no contact marks. You have to look hard to find any blemishes. I am sure the criteria for contact marks loosens to NGC and then greater for ANACS. The only thing I know for certain is that a 65 in PCGS looks dang nice and in general, one's top picks from a raw grouping would probably come back a 65/66. Look at the pop reports for all the 2009 cents with PCGS and it says a lot. >>
This is why I want to see PCGS grade these coins, so I can send my best one's to them for grading. I am not even interested in what NGC does or says because of there weak grading standards. What we have right now is ANACS and from what I have seen they did not do a bad job. I will send 10 of my ANACS WDDR 001's MS67 and 10 of my ANACS WDDR 002's MS67 to PCGS for regrading and then we will know what the difference is. How's that . >>
Sounds like an excellent idea,
Successful Trades: Swampboy,
<< <i>
<< <i>PCGS is tough or you can call it accurate, but either way a 65/66 2009 FY in a PCGS holder looks near perfect with hardly any if no contact marks. You have to look hard to find any blemishes. I am sure the criteria for contact marks loosens to NGC and then greater for ANACS. The only thing I know for certain is that a 65 in PCGS looks dang nice and in general, one's top picks from a raw grouping would probably come back a 65/66. Look at the pop reports for all the 2009 cents with PCGS and it says a lot. >>
This is why I want to see PCGS grade these coins, so I can send my best one's to them for grading. I am not even interested in what NGC does or says because of there weak grading standards. What we have right now is ANACS and from what I have seen they did not do a bad job. I will send 10 of my ANACS WDDR 001's MS67 and 10 of my ANACS WDDR 002's MS67 to PCGS for regrading and then we will know what the difference is. How's that . >>
Well I think that sounds like a good idea initially, but it involves more costs. Problem is if you send them now, PCGS will not attribute them. So you may have a more accurate grade for the coin, and in a better holder, but I am not sure what you have as an end result. If you were looking to sell them, then I think an attribution on the holder is best. If you want to hold on to them for a long time then fine, but maybe by then, PCGS will be attributing them by that time.
What you have now with your ANACS 67s are your best coins out of your selection. They are attributed which is nice too. So you already have your cream of the crop, If PCGS was putting the attribution on the holder then I would say go for it, and I would send my coins in too. But right now, it seems like a waste IMHO.
You are right. I am not in that much of a hurry anyway as I think eventually PCGS will grade these. I have more that are just as nice as the ones that graded MS67 for that event. I sure have no intention of selling any at this point.
<< <i>I have more that are just as nice as the ones that graded MS67 for that event. >>
Can you please give me a lesson on what to look for in a ANACS 67?
Spot free? Number of contact marks, etc.
Thanks
<< <i>You are right. I am not in that much of a hurry anyway as I think eventually PCGS will grade these. I have more that are just as nice as the ones that graded MS67 for that event. I sure have no intention of selling any at this point. >>
Can you post a pic of the 67 and the others so we can sharpen are eye's Thanks in advance, Type2.
Hoard the keys.
My 67's are in my safe and with my knee replacement it is impossible for me to get at them. I do have some 66's here that I just looked at under my dino scope.
I did not see many marks on them at all but I do not know how to get the pictures from the dino scope to the forum pages for you all to see.
The two I looked at were WDDR001 and a WDDR 002.
The 001 had about 4 bag marks and 3 spots.
The 002 had only 2 bag marks and 3 spots.
I have 15 more of each I will look at tomorrow and I will try again to find out how to post pictures.
Steve
Hoard the keys.
I will try tomorrow morning. I am 70 years old and have had to learn the computer the hard way. If someone could give me explicit directions it would be a big help. I can take a picture of the coin with my dino scope but I don't know what to do with it after I get the picture.