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Pricing "problem" coins

While I am not a dealer, due to a lack of trust in the local dealers, I am offered a fairly large number of collections to purchase. Usually, I don't have much of a problem coming up with a fair value for most items. I find "problem" key dates especially difficult to price, however. I want to keep my reputation for being fair, but don't want to overpay for items that may be difficult to sell.

My latest deal includes a 1932-D quarter graded by ANACS as AU53 Details - Scratched. It is one of their ner holders and is very accurately graded (may even be AU55). The coin is very original, not cleaned, and the scratches are through the date and are not obvious. It looks as though someone took a small brush to the area to see the date more clearly. It actually took me a couple of seconds to see the damage.

So what do some of you use to determine pricing on coins like this? This is not a coin for me to keep, so I am just trying to come up with a fair price. It is part of a larger collection that I have already priced. What would be your number on this coin?

Jeff

Comments

  • sinin1sinin1 Posts: 7,500
    are you buying for resale or just keeping these collections for the JuustMakesCents hoard


    does the seller want to sell everything or be willing to keep a couple coins you have triuble valuing?





    I would probably offer $300 with hopes of getting $450
  • seanqseanq Posts: 8,735 ✭✭✭✭✭
    My experience with ANACS net graded holders is that people will automatically downgrade the coin at least one full level from the details grade regardless of how the coin looks. Assuming the coin is for resale, I wouldn't expect to sell an AU53 details coin for anything more than XF money, that being the best case scenario. I'd figure out what profit I needed and base my offer on that.


    Sean Reynolds
    Incomplete planchets wanted, especially Lincoln Cents & type coins.

    "Keep in mind that most of what passes as numismatic information is no more than tested opinion at best, and marketing blather at worst. However, I try to choose my words carefully, since I know that you guys are always watching." - Joe O'Connor
  • are you buying for resale or just keeping these collections for the JuustMakesCents hoard

    Definitely buying this coin for resale. He would like me to buy it as part of the rest of the collection.
  • Hello---- I sold an ANACS graded AU50 1932D in July of 2008 on Ebay and got 287.85 for it. Was marked cleaned on the old ANACS holder. The coin would have fooled the vast majority of collectors if sold "raw". Hope this is of some help to you. Bob [supertooth]
    Bob
  • roadrunnerroadrunner Posts: 28,313 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I've been mulling over the same issue recently with some circ cleaned/AT key date coins. The best I could come up with is that it varies. But generally 1 full grade down for starters. Ask yourself, would I rather own this coin or a problem free piece one grade less? Or two grades less?

    Using an AU55 coin as an example I feel that for coins not ruined with corrosion/heavy and deep scratches, etc. such as your 32-d 25c then dropping down to XF40 or even VF35 is reasonable. I think most people would pick the problem free XF40 over a problematic AU50/55. Just be aware that in this market problem coins are being viewing 10X as critically as they were just a year ago.

    roadrunner
    Barbarous Relic No More, LSCC -GoldSeek--shadow stats--SafeHaven--321gold
  • Thanks for everyone's thoughts so far.
  • sinin1sinin1 Posts: 7,500
    1932-D 25C --Cleaned--ICG. AU58 Details. NGC Census: (360/870). PCGS Population (476/1582). Mintage: 436,800. Numismedia Wsl... Track this lot.
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    Sold for: $299.00 (includes BP )
    Bid Source: Internet
    Ended: Dec 6, 2009




    just sold on Heritage - but looked harshly cleaned

    a couple months ago, a NCS sold for over $500 w/AU details

    so how badly damaged? which would affect pricing

    if you can hardly see it, possibly a crack out and PCGS submission is in order
  • DennisHDennisH Posts: 14,011 ✭✭✭✭✭
    This is just me, but a problem coin that is truly a problem coin (as opposed to something that is a borderline matter of opinion that might get into a problem-free holder with a few more trys) has insignificant numismatic value. I'd rather pay full value for an honest coin that I can re-sell when the time comes, than kid myself I was getting "a bargain" that I'll most likely wind up being stuck with. My attitude is that problem coins aren't bargains no matter how cheap they are. (As an avid Morgan VAM collector I can think of only a couple of exceptions to this, and I still wouldn't pay more than 25% of problem-free value.)
    When in doubt, don't.

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