Do you have an actual method for attributing Bust halves when you crack open your Overton 3rd book?
coin22lover
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When attempting to attribute, the first thing I do is look for a prominent feature on the coin such as a die crack. However, my troubles seem to come when there is no obvious feature to latch on to. When there are many varieties for a year, and most look quite similar, I find myself going methodically from page to page scrutinizing the details listed for each Overton #, though this has become quite laborious if not unreliable, especially when trying to attribute from pics alone (unable to take measurements in millimeters) . Some times if I'm looking for cherries I will just turn to all the R5's and higher and see if I can determine if that coin matches up, but even then I find many aspects of the process exceedingly difficult from photos. Anyone ever share in my frustrations, anyone have methods of quickly attributing many halves (especially from photos alone) that isn't exceedingly time consuming?
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In all seriousness, I don't have the book, but have found other resourses helpful when attributing.
There are many areas I look for when attributing FHHD's, DBHD's, CBHD's.
I first turn to the reverse. The reverse has more features and landmarks that are more easily interchangable than the obverse.
I primarily focus on a few areas, which I subsequently try to memorize so I'm not constantly looking back and forth:
When there's not an obvious overdate, die crack, or strike issue, I look at the following alignments (starting at the reverse first)
1) Left scroll edge to ED alignment
2) "I" in PLURIBUS in relation to "T" in STATES
3) "S2 in STATES to "S" in PLURIBUS alignment
4) "U" in UNUM alignment to "O" of the word OF
5) Right scroll edge to "M" in AMERICA
6) Closeness of A3 to arrowheads
7) "5" in the denomination and where it aligns to the underside of the Eagle
8) Where the olive stem is in relation to the "C" standing for CENTS
If I still have some doubts about the above 8 I start looking at random matchings of letters, numbers, other features to the dentils.
Only if a cool is REALLY worn, can I not make a judgement about an attribution.
From there, the obverse takes over, and I apply the same principals to the Stars and the Date.
<< <i>What Overton book
In all seriousness, I don't have the book, but have found other resourses helpful when attributing.
There are many areas I look for when attributing FHHD's, DBHD's, CBHD's.
I first turn to the reverse. The reverse has more features and landmarks that are more easily interchangable than the obverse.
I primarily focus on a few areas, which I subsequently try to memorize so I'm not constantly looking back and forth:
When there's not an obvious overdate, die crack, or strike issue, I look at the following alignments (starting at the reverse first)
1) Left scroll edge to ED alignment
2) "I" in PLURIBUS in relation to "T" in STATES
3) "S2 in STATES to "S" in PLURIBUS alignment
4) "U" in UNUM alignment to "O" of the word OF
5) Right scroll edge to "M" in AMERICA
6) Closeness of A3 to arrowheads
7) "5" in the denomination and where it aligns to the underside of the Eagle
8) Where the olive stem is in relation to the "C" standing for CENTS
If I still have some doubts about the above 8 I start looking at random matchings of letters, numbers, other features to the dentils.
Only if a cool is REALLY worn, can I not make a judgement about an attribution.
From there, the obverse takes over, and I apply the same principals to the Stars and the Date. >>
That is pretty much exactly what I do also. I will add that after attributing enough coins, When you first look at the right die marriage it just seems to jump out at you from the page...
It just takes practice, practice, practice...
QN
Go to Early United States Coins - to order the New "Early United States Half Dollar Vol. 1 / 1794-1807" book or the 1st new Bust Quarter book!
Yes. Crack open "The Ultimate Guide to Attributing Bust Halves", by Dr. Glenn Peterson, first. It is a 'quick-find' supplement to the Overton text, and makes attribution so much quicker and easier. Once attributed using this guide, then refer to Overton for confirmation and all of the details.
<< <i>"Do you have an actual method for attributing Bust halves when you crack open your Overton 3rd book?"
Yes. Crack open "The Ultimate Guide to Attributing Bust Halves", by Dr. Glenn Peterson, first. It is a 'quick-find' supplement to the Overton text, and makes attribution so much quicker and easier. Once attributed using this guide, then refer to Overton for confirmation and all of the details. >>
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