Best combo for a type SLQ

Comments

• MikeInFL Posts: 10,188 ✭✭✭✭

  November 18, 2009 3:38PM

  If full strike/full details are your thing, I suspect you won't be happy with anything other than a 1917 type 1.
  
  Just like full steps don't guarantee a fully struck portrait of Jefferson or full windows on Monticello, the same can be said for FH SLQs. As a result, finding an eye-appealing and fully struck type 2 (i.e. including but not limited to the head) is very difficult, in my experience. Said another way, if you're going to pay FH money you might as well get a full-details coin, and fining a full-details SLQ that is also eye-appealing is no small feat -- I know I've struck out for several years now -- outside of a 1917 type 1.
  
  That said, the type 2 coins that I've seen (and not pulled the trigger on for one reason or anther) are the early years, 1917 type 2 being a prime example. I seem to recall that one of the later years had some detail put back on the hubs -- hopefully someone more intimate with the series can chime in.
  
  Good luck in your search, and I hope you prove me wrong (and sell me the coin when you're done )....Mike

  Collector of Large Cents, US Type, and modern pocket change.

  0
• clackamas Posts: 5,615 ✭

  November 18, 2009 5:04PM

  Mike, thanks, I flat out don't know the issue but certainly understand that the early years on a issue oftem provide the best stikes. Look at the teen Lincolns for strike quality. I will look at the 1917 issues, thanks.
  
  There seem to be, according to the PCGS price guide afforadable MS67FH examples in my price range. Knowing my pickyness with washingtons I would almost venture to say that that was a must. Do I still stick with 1917?

  0
• Walkerguy21D Posts: 11,716 ✭✭✭✭✭

  November 18, 2009 9:36PM

  Not sure what kind of type set you are working on, but most require a Type 1 and a Type 2 example. They are very distinct. The Type 1 generally chosen is a 1917 issue, as the 1916 is way out of most folks' price range, even in Good condition. Since you want mint state and have stated your price range, 1917, probably the P mint issue, is the one to get. Theae are generally very well struck.
  For the Type 2, anything would work, but I'd suggest hunting P mint coins issued after 1924 (when the date was recessed). Browse Jay Cline's website - he tends to carry some very high powered SLQ's - it can at least give you some to look at and study. Good luck.

  Successful BST transactions with 171 members. Ebeneezer, Tonedeaf, Shane6596, Piano1, Ikenefic, RG, PCGSPhoto, stman, Don'tTelltheWife, Boosibri, Ron1968, snowequities, VTchaser, jrt103, SurfinxHI, 78saen, bp777, FHC, RYK, JTHawaii, Opportunity, Kliao, bigtime36, skanderbeg, split37, thebigeng, acloco, Toninginthblood, OKCC, braddick, Coinflip, robcool, fastfreddie, tightbudget, DBSTrader2, nickelsciolist, relaxn, Eagle eye, soldi, silverman68, ElKevvo, sawyerjosh, Schmitz7, talkingwalnut2, konsole, sharkman987, sniocsu, comma, jesbroken, David1234, biosolar, Sullykerry, Moldnut, erwindoc, MichaelDixon, GotTheBug

  0
• coinguy1 Posts: 13,484 ✭✭✭

  November 18, 2009 10:14PM

  Rather than concentrating on a particular date, I'd suggest looking at lots of coins and choosing the one that appeals to you the most. Yes, certain issues are typically found with better strikes than others. But there are enough exceptions, such that you might miss out on good opportunities if you confine your search too narrowly. Buy the coin, not the date.

  0
• STONE Posts: 15,275 ✭

  November 18, 2009 11:20PM

  
  
  << <i>Rather than concentrating on a particular date, I'd suggest looking at lots of coins and choosing the one that appeals to you the most. Yes, certain issues are typically found with better strikes than others. But there are enough exceptions, such that you might miss out on good opportunities if you confine your search too narrowly. Buy the coin, not the date. >>
  
  
  I can tell you've been waiting a while to share that
  
  Welcome back old chap

  0
• 1946Hamm Posts: 793 ✭✭✭✭✭

  November 18, 2009 11:22PM

  Your search for a fully detailed SLQ can be challenging. For a Type 1 the 1917 philly example can be found with great strikes. For Type 2 your choices are limited. Forget about the 1925-1930 coins because I don't think the full details were on the dies to begin with. I would look for 1917,1918,1919,1920 Philly Type 2's. I have seen some really well struck coins for these dates. Most full head designated coins do not exhibit full details all over the coin. I have collected SLQ's for many years and a fully detailed coin is hard to find especially without clash marks. I have probably seen more 1919 and 1920 great strikes than all the other dates. In all the years I have been looking at Slq's I have only seen a handfull that were what I consider fully struck with all the details. Good luck in your search.
  
  Here is a nicely struck 1917 Type 1
  
  

  Have a good day, Gary

  0
• Barndog Posts: 20,515 ✭✭✭✭✭

  November 18, 2009 11:24PM

  nice type 1! All the rivets and shield lines are there, awesome!

  JR Newsletter Online Edition

  0
• Gemineye Posts: 5,374 ✭

  November 18, 2009 11:57PM

  The ..pointieness..on the stars are nice...

  ......Larry........

  0
• veryfine Posts: 1,763 ✭✭✭

  November 19, 2009 12:09AM

  1946Hamm put it very well.
  Although many collectors seek a FH 1925 through 1930, for example, the other details are often a bit mushy.
  1919 is a great date to look out for with regard to striking details. 1917 T2 , 1920 and 1924 are also promising, however 1920 sometimes displays some uneven date striking.
  Of course, the 17 T1 is easy to find with all or most details sharply struck, but that has always been a well established fact within the SLQ community. You can easily pick one up at any time.

  0