For those of you that have completed series...

lkenefic · January 24, 2009 11:32PM

... Is the key date/dates in your respective series in much worse condition (ie: a filler) than the rest of the coins, or is your set fairly well matched? Also, was the key date one of the first coins in your set that you acquired, somewhere in the middle, or was it the last?

CharlotteDude · January 24, 2009 11:42PM

As for the C-mint HE series, the "key-date" (1842-C Small Date) is the only one lacking. Because it's a variety, and not a regular/stand-alone date, I haven't really pressed the search and purchase issue. Should I decide to purchase one, I wouldn't accept anything less than a nice/problem-free VF-30/35 coin. As for the other "keys", my 1838-C & 1839-C's are in PCGS XF-40 holders. The 1846-C is in an NGC AU-55 holder, and the 1861-C is in a PCGS AU-58 holder. Even though I have a couple VF-30's and an AU-55 to AU-58 or two, I think the set is well balanced (ie, no G or VGs and no MS-62s or MS-63s). It's never really been about the grade either... the coins have to be attractive for the grade, or at least for the date... (dare I say CAC-worthy?).

regards,

'dude

halfnut · January 25, 2009 12:15AM

In my Raw set's I put what ever I could find to fill them ---------- then a bright lite showed up above my collection and gave me new direction. I sold off all but a few raw sets and started a graded set of coins. As I was a small budget collector a started my first set of Kennedys and decided my grade was going to be MS66. I got to a point that I decided to allow 65's in the set for the key's and semi key's till I could afford better. There are still a few left in the set. Im now doing the Franklins in MS65 ( non FBL ) but I'm sure there will be a point that I will relent and put a few 64's in there to just get it completed. Other's here have said to get the key's first and then the rest will be easy but I got most of mine at the end just because I'm a person that wants to get as much done as soon as I can and with my budget I would have to wait months at a time to get the key's first.

Dan

sonoranmonsoon · January 25, 2009 1:20AM

In my case, most of my complete sets have lower grade dogs filling the key spots....Now that I think about it, I also have a lot of dogs filling non-key spots also.

Lakesammman · January 25, 2009 1:23AM

For my IHC set, the 1877 was a filler - MS66RB - couldn't find a red one that I liked.

LindeDad · January 25, 2009 1:24AM

My safety deposit box barks every time I open it.

ProofArtworkonCircs · January 25, 2009 1:31AM

My first silver quarter type B's cherry picked uncs were the rarest date - 1956. I wish, now, that I hadn't given so many of them away, before I realized the scarcity of that particular date.

The key clad one -1972 D B was the last. Those I had to find in circulation. But 1972 being the latest date in the series, it had less circulation, so the cladset is pretty evenly matched in XF.

Mercury10c · January 25, 2009 1:31AM

Depends on the set.
In my Mercs, V-Nickels, Washington Quarters, Peace Dollars the keys are in lower grades.
In my Barber Dimes, Barber Halves, Franklins, and State Quarters

the keys are in the same or similar grade as the rest of the set.
Some I bought in the beginning some I bought at the end.

lkeigwin · January 25, 2009 1:50AM

My Lincoln set is fairly well matched. I guess it depends on how you define "matched". If it's in terms of value and not grade then, sure. '14-D, S-VDB, mid '20 SF mints, '55 DDO are in the same ballpark. (Late wheaties can be acquired in high grade for much less money, with some exceptions.)

Key dates were acquired along the way. Fillers, then upgrades. The registry set has more than 140 coins so it took a long time to complete and feels never done. My wife says I'm done. I don't know how she put up with it for so long.

Lance.

drddm · January 25, 2009 2:41AM

In my Liberty Nickel set, my 1885, 1886 and 1912-S are all evenly matched at PCGS MS64.

I looked for them very early on while putting the set together and I'm glad I did because when I finished the set, ALL THREE KEYS had gone up in price, some more than others.

My advice, look for the keys in the grade you can afford or want AS EARLY AS POSSIBLE since they are more than likely going to rise in value before your set is completed.

Colorfulcoins · January 25, 2009 2:57AM

Buy the best you can afford.

Rampage · January 25, 2009 3:56AM

Like the others, it depends on the set.

I am almost finished with my IHC collection. I am builing the set as a nice circulated set with a grade range from VF to XF, although my 1877 is a F12. My 1866 to 1872 are all in the VF range.

My Barber sets will be low grade circulated sets ranging from G to F, except the dimes will range a little bit higher.

I don't do Washington quarters. My Lincoln set I put together as a child is getting constant upgrades. Range of grade from fine to uncirculated.

My Morgan dollar is will be mostly UNCs, although the most expensive coins will be AU or less. My 1901 and 1884S are AU55. My 95 O and S are G and VG.

So, that gives you an example of some of my sets.

SilverEagles92 · January 25, 2009 4:01AM

<< <i>... Is the key date/dates in your respective series in much worse condition (ie: a filler) than the rest of the coins, or is your set fairly well matched? Also, was the key date one of the first coins in your set that you acquired, somewhere in the middle, or was it the last? >>

Actually, when I completed my Peace Dollar Dansco, my 1928 Peace Dollar was one of the nicer coins. The spread on these is so minimal from VG-MS that you could pick up a nice MS62 for just a little more than a VG8. I saved it for last.

fcloud · January 25, 2009 4:04AM

For me finding the keys in the grades I wanted was the tougest part. I purchased in any order I could for the majority of my set of Mercury Dimes. I upgraded the 1916-D twice (really three time in you count my regrade) until I reached AU-50. I would like to go further, but I don't have deep pockets. Some others such as 1921, 1921-D, 1926-S, 1927-D, and some other tough dates I lived with lower grade coins until I could get better ones. My minimum that I would need to meet my goals was MS63. Both my overdate coins are VF and I really don't have a plan to upgrade, but maybe someday if the right one came along at the right price. I consider the set complete at the basic level (no varieties) which equates to all coins MS63 or better except my 1916-D which will most likely remain at AU50, as an upgrade would be like a car loan!

Billet7 · January 25, 2009 5:12AM

I'm backwards. With my lincoln cents I have just your run of the mill coins in the majority of the spots, but for the keys I bought certified, higher end coins. My 1909-S VDB is an MS62bn, my 1931-S is MS65RB my 1914-D is F15 (Which is actually higher in grade than most of my early lincolns.) and the 1909-S is VF35...the keys are all PCGS except the last one (ANACS.) The reason I do this is because I love to collect coins, but the keys are investments. I can't just spend tons of money on any old coin if I don't think it will help me in my retirement. (Coins can payout better than a 401K if you do it right.)

Coxe · January 25, 2009 5:15AM

The key dates, for me, were the on-going priority and I got them in the best grades possible, generally being actually among the better grades in the sets.

droopyd · January 25, 2009 5:48AM

My Lincoln set is fairly well matched -- MS64RD or better for 1934-present, with a mix of RD and RB coins for the earlier P mints and RB/BN/AU coins for the branch mints.

1909s and 1914d are still VF20s only, and I don't have a 22 no d (anymore) or 55ddo. Someday.

Edited to add: the key dates were among the later acquisitions to complete the set, though many coins have been upgraded since.

rld14 · January 25, 2009 6:54AM

Yes and no.

I have a few sets going on right now, one of them is a MS set of SLQs. I have the 1926-D in MS64, I need to upgrade that coin to MS65FH. All of a sudden that becomes a big key because of grade, ditto the 27-S, that coin in FH suddenly becomes worth a LOT more than my 1916 (Which is OK, a 62FH but it has blotchy toning that I don't like.. different story tho)

The keys that I HAVE bought are nice, but on that set... define "key".

My Liberty Nickels, Walkers, Circ SLQs, Mercury Dimes, etc.. all those are matched wear circ sets so the answer is yes/no/etc.

For those of you that have completed series...

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