Starting a slabbed type set. Hypothetical...
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you have $2000 and already have a PCGS Saint. Where do you start? Where should I start? A nice Early Dollar or an MS60-61 seated dollar?
Let me add in. After the first one you have $1,000 per coin to spend on the next five. What would your next five be if you could spend $1,000 per coin?
Let me add in. After the first one you have $1,000 per coin to spend on the next five. What would your next five be if you could spend $1,000 per coin?
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#1 1951 Bowman Los Angeles Rams Team Set
#2 1980 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
#8 (and climbing) 1972 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
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<< <i>you have $2000 and already have a PCGS Saint. Where do you start? Where should I start? A nice Early Dollar or an MS60-61 seated dollar? >>
I'd start with a nice AU-58 seated dollar. Most of them are many times nice in appearance than a MS60-61 grade. Although a nice early dollar is hard to beat. If you're patient and choose a PQ coin, you can't go wrong either way!
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In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
<< <i>Is this a raw Dansco 7070 set? Is it a set intended for the PCGS registry? Is it a set intended for the NGC registry? What is your time frame? What is your overall budget? What is your breaking point per coin? Do you like mint state business strike, proof, impaired proof or circulated business strike coinage? Do you like original-skinned coinage? Do you like dipped coinage? Depending on your criteria, I could give you different opinions. >>
Keep in mind, this is only a hypothetical situation
Ray
<< <i>you have $2000 and already have a PCGS Saint. Where do you start? Where should I start? A nice Early Dollar or an MS60-61 seated dollar?
Let me add in. After the first one you have $1,000 per coin to spend on the next five. What would your next five be if you could spend $1,000 per coin? >>
What type of type set?
Time frame- years...and years(lifetime endeavor)
type set- slabbed(mostly pcgs, but will consider nice ngc coins)
I would love to have some nice keys in this set.
I don't have serious cash to toss around. I set my budget at $200-250/mo so I'm looking at buying 1-3 coins per year.
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#1 1951 Bowman Los Angeles Rams Team Set
#2 1980 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
#8 (and climbing) 1972 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
Given the additional details, I would always keep an eye out for choice Classic head large cents in virtually any circulated grade, but at least F12 and above. These coins are the toughest, in my experience, of the non-prohibitively expensive or rare coins within the set and finding problem-free, attractive, original and accurately graded coins can be nearly impossible. This is especially true in the upper circulated grades. You may want an experienced eye to look at the coin and may have to burn through a decent percentage of your yearly budget to find the right coin, but to me it would be worth it. I would worry about purchasing other high grade early copper until or unless you are expert at identifying non-original coinage.
Virtually every other type within such a set will be found with some frequency in most grade ranges where the bulk of the typical collectors will be buying, which means those folks who buy items similar to MS64 Draped Bust dollars are excluded. Therefore, you will be able to pick your spots when the right coin comes along. A tough coin to find with superior eye appeal is the Seated dollar and this is even more true regarding the NM Seated dollar type. Typically, the MS60/61 grade is not only fairly scuffed up, but can at times appear to be slightly circulated. My opinion would be that most collectors would enjoy a high end, choice AU piece more than a scuffed up, low end MS piece and the choice of the AU piece might end up saving a few dollars toward another coin.
If you are looking for coins that are slightly better in terms of their date vs. a generic dated coin, you may do well to look at the DB half set and attempt to find an 1803 or 1805 instead of the "generic" 1806 or 1807. The 1803 and 1805 issues are found much less frequently than the later issues yet do not always trade for a stiff premium. Additionally, the 1803 offers a small 3 variety that is very tough and the 1805 offers the 1805/4 overdate and this is a cool overdate since it contains the magic of the 1804 date. The true kings to this series are the 1801 and 1802, but prices have advanced so much on these coins that one would have to buy relatively low grade pieces to keep their value in line with the other coins listed and I do not always like this approach. Similarly, in the RE half series the 1839-O is wildly underpriced relative to its scarcity in original, mid-grade or higher condition. Later type pieces are often found in gem or near-gem proof for $1,000 or thereabouts and finding non-manipulated, attractive, accurately graded pieces can yield a wonderful coin. Some of these issues also have relatively low original mintages that can be purchased for only a small premium.
The strength of my experience in this endeavor generally ends at 1915 so I will not venture beyond that area as others will no doubt be able to give you more details.
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
I'm going to do a registry set with PCGS I believe. I can't compte with the best and have no intentions to, but I want to put together a killer set to be left for my family someday and one I can enjoy and be proud of while I'm still on this earth.
In the meantime I'm also building a numismatic library. Getting to know each series more in depth
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#1 1951 Bowman Los Angeles Rams Team Set
#2 1980 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
#8 (and climbing) 1972 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
Michael Kittle Rare Coins --- 1908-S Indian Head Cent Grading Set --- No. 1 1909 Mint Set --- Kittlecoins on Facebook --- Long Beach Table 448
1877 cent
1909-S VDB cent
1916-D dime
1932-D quarter
1885 Nickel
1913-S T1 Nickel
1815 half-dollar
1921-D half-dollar
1846 half-dime
1846 dime
1811 half-cent
1809 Cent
1857 Cent
1799 Cent
1828 dime
1838-O half-dime
1838-O dime
1853-O dime
1867 half-dime
1867 dime
1849-O quarter
1861 cent
1913-S quarter
don't forget the one year type that you must get
1859 cent
1883 No cents Nickel
1853-O arrows and rays half-dollar
Just rambling some of my favorites
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#1 1951 Bowman Los Angeles Rams Team Set
#2 1980 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
#8 (and climbing) 1972 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
Positive BST Transactions (buyers and sellers): wondercoin, blu62vette, BAJJERFAN, privatecoin, blu62vette, AlanLastufka, privatecoin
#1 1951 Bowman Los Angeles Rams Team Set
#2 1980 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
#8 (and climbing) 1972 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
<< <i>any last thoughts before I let this thread slip away? >>
Many collectors prefer an evenly matched set in terms of appearance. This can be difficult with a full type set, so many will try and match coins of each era, or other compromises. Those that use the Dansco album sometimes match coins that will be next to each other. Matching appearance means widely varying budgets for each coin.
The other thought that comes to mind, is that $1,000 per coin adds up to a pretty penny for a set that includes all those in the Dansco 7070 album. For a new collector of limited means, it seems unlikely they will stick to the task and finish the set. That's just reality. A raw set or lower grade circulated slabbed set that can be completed under the same budget of $200 per month in five years or so, seems to me a much more realistic goal. However, I always say collect what you like, and if you have your mind set on a slabbed type set by all means go for it.
Whatever set is the goal, it is a good idea to learn which coins are the toughest ones to come by even if you have the money. If possible keep a reserve so you can buy those coins if they become available at a reasonable price for a decent coin. In a type set, there are lots of coins that are relatively easy and can stay well down the list for a long time for a long term project.
For the 20th century coins you can go for higher grades *and* spend less per coin. I would do that. I wouldn't buy super high grade 20th century coins because they wouldn't match the earlier ones, they won't anyway, but it isn't bad if the coins gradually work down in grade as the types get older.
I went for the complete type set and got about 3/4 of the way there before I gave up. I got bored with all the seated types and I ran out of money. I highly recommend targeting subsets. That way you get a feeling of accomplishment on your way to the grand goal. For example try for the basic design set or the nickel type set. Of course you should always have your eyes open (and a bit of cash saved) for the toughies that Tom mentioned...