I have decided that my first set will be Barber Dimes...

RunnersDad · June 30, 2008 2:52AM

After reviewing all of my coin collecting options...I have decided that the first set that I will attempt to complete is Barber Dimes. I find that the prices are reasonable, even for higher quality or lower mintage examples, and the set is relatively small compared to some other denominations and type's. My budget also played a large role in the selection process somewhat limiting my choices for the time being. I am excited about taking on this challenge and I feel that after completing this initial task, I will be further motivated to take on a new, more challenging set!
What are your thoughts on the Barber series for a first time set builder? Good/Bad idea...or what are some other suggestions that you might have. Thanks

Treeman · June 30, 2008 3:01AM

My personal opinion is this:
*Don't choose a series to collect based on the ability to complete it.
*I collect Large Cents, and I know that I will never be able to complete the set. It is still very enjoyable to add a piece now and then. I just love the old copper coins, and being able to complete the set is secondary.
* Having said that, I must admit to starting a Proof Kennedy Half set, mainly to start a set that I CAN COMPLETE. It is fun, but my main interest is the Large Cents, because those are the coins I find most interesting... Stan

InYHWHWeTrust · June 30, 2008 3:02AM

Excellent choice! You'll learn about grading, originality of surfaces, toning, avoiding rim bumps, other problems.
I recommend starting with G-VG and complete/ near complete the set, then work your way into the magic slot of F-XF for challenging yet not too expensive. If you start AU and up, there are others on the boards whom I sure you need to talk with like: Casey, MFH, and others. Usually people say, "BUY THE KEYS FIRST" and this is a good idea for someone who has collected before in other series, but for newbies, you don't want to be learning mistakes on key dates, imho.

I have never collected the dimes by date and mintmark, but if I live long enough, I'm sure I'll find my way there eventually.

Best success to you and I hope others will chime in.

Don

AmericanCopper · June 30, 2008 3:07AM

No stoppers for you in that series?...Wow!...I'm impressed!

dogwood · June 30, 2008 3:11AM

That's cool. Had you considered the other Barbers? You like the design? Running down the dates you saw the dimes have sleepers, lots of surprising little tough dates? Buy the David Lawrence Dime Book.

My soon to be complete set are the Barber Quarters in VG-AU. Always wanted to do that one. I've stopped "collecting" the Halves with an eye toward completion.

Good Luck.

Broadstruck · June 30, 2008 3:13AM

Those lil ladies as a set are tougher then they look... hope you had your Wheaties!

RunnersDad · June 30, 2008 3:19AM

<< My personal opinion is this:
*Don't choose a series to collect based on the ability to complete it.
*I collect Large Cents, and I know that I will never be able to complete the set. It is still very enjoyable to add a piece now and then. I just love the old copper coins, and being able to complete the set is secondary.
* Having said that, I must admit to starting a Proof Kennedy Half set, mainly to start a set that I CAN COMPLETE. It is fun, but my main interest is the Large Cents, because those are the coins I find most interesting... Stan >>

The smaller size of the set and affordability factor help...but I really do enjoy the Design of the barbers. I obtained some in a collection that my grandfather left me so I have a few to start me off. None of them are "key" dates...but a couple are "semi-key" dates so not a bad start.
I intend to start the set with lower grade coins...then proceed to replace the fillers with higher grades as funds become available.
I also really enjoy the Seated Dime series and all of it's variety...but I believe the Barber's better suit me at this point in time.

ziggy29 · June 30, 2008 3:24AM

<< I also really enjoy the Seated Dime series and all of it's variety...but I believe the Barber's better suit me at this point in time. >>

May I read this as "there's no way I can afford decent examples of the early CC dimes"?

Placid · June 30, 2008 3:28AM

Frankins are pretty easy. However if you dont like the look of them then no point in collecting them.
Collect whatever you like, there are no rules other than what one places on themself.

RunnersDad · June 30, 2008 3:39AM

<< 

<< I also really enjoy the Seated Dime series and all of it's variety...but I believe the Barber's better suit me at this point in time. >>

May I read this as "there's no way I can afford decent examples of the early CC dimes"?

>>

That might be one way to look at it

Geoman · June 30, 2008 3:58AM

It's a nice set to put together and not too expnesive in lower grades. I am putting a VG set together and only have 3 coins left (I already have the key-date coins). It is in a Dansco album right now and when I am done with it, I can always upgrade it when a coin comes along in my budget.

Good luck and have fun!!

TavernTreasures · June 30, 2008 4:01AM

Good Luck.

MFH · June 30, 2008 5:42AM

Good luck with your set of Barber Dimes.

First of all, now that you've decided to start this set,
decide in what grade [ or range of grades ] your set
will be in.

Secondly, go onto PCGS price pages to see the stated
values by grade for a complete collection - either a Date Set,
a Basic Set or a Complete Set with Major Varieties.

Economics comes into play at this point.

Not knowing you or your taste level, you may decide to
try going for a Date set in MS 63 - 64. Then again, if your
desire is for lusterous coins without the MS price tags, you'll
assemble a collection in AU 55-58 - and add a few MS 64's
of the more common dates. [ "You'd be a Man After My Own Heart" ].

Buy David Lawrence's book - or - Kevin Flynn's book BEFORE
you buy a single coin; study it. Re-read it again.

Contact a couple of trusted dealers and tell them of your new pursuit;
having a couple of good dealers will save you alot of time and some
costly mistakes.

Also, remember one last thing, if the price is too good to be true...run away !!
There's a strong possibility there's going to be something wrong with the coin .

There's no Santa in Numismatics. [ Meaning ...there are no bargains,
you pay for what you get.]

Lastly..... HAVE FUN...THIS IS WHAT COLLECTING IS ALL ABOUT !!!

Cladiator · June 30, 2008 5:47AM

Once you've done your research and studying and are confident and ready to buy, buy the 95-O first.

SilverEagles92 · June 30, 2008 5:49AM

<< Once you've done your research and studying and are confident and ready to buy, buy the 95-O first. >>

Definitely. The set will be somewhat of a breeze with that coin out of the way.

Broadstruck · June 30, 2008 5:49AM

MFH's advice is great, but there's another road block...

Next your gonna run into another major issue as most Barber Dimes are either BUTT UGLY toned examples, or ones that have been OVERLY DIPPED and have lack luster dead surfaces.

BECOKA · June 30, 2008 5:51AM

Make sure you pick a look you like and hunt for that. Don't settle.

Great series you chose.

Cladiator · June 30, 2008 5:52AM

<< as most Barber Dimes are either BUTT UGLY toned examples, or ones that have been OVERLY DIPPED and have lack luster dead surfaces. >>

That is not a problem unique to Barber Dimes. You're going to run into that problem with many 19th century and older coins.

Broadstruck · June 30, 2008 5:55AM

<< 

<< as most Barber Dimes are either BUTT UGLY toned examples, or ones that have been OVERLY DIPPED and have lack luster dead surfaces. >>

That is not a problem unique to Barber Dimes. You're going to run into that problem with many 19th century and older coins. >>

Broadstruck · June 30, 2008 5:56AM

I found this PCGS MS63 the other day and thought it was a sweetie.

Batman23 · June 30, 2008 6:45AM

I would recommend looking at various grades and finding the grade you would be happy with. Do not settle for a low grade set because of price. If you like VG/F then go for it. I find that XF/AU is the best compromise, nice detail, more affordable the MS, and a pleasing set when viewed.

When I started collecting I had a few penny, nickel, dime, quarter books that I would work on. Just fil the whole with affordable coins (like the G/VG grades). I look back and am not happy with the amount of money I spent on low grade coins that "I" do not find attractive. Now they sit in tubes out of sight. If I had to do it over again I would buy slower and what "I" like instead of just filling holes.

I would just suggest to buy the grade that YOU will be happy with later. I don't sell my coins so I find it expensive to buy one grade and upgrade later.

It is fun to complete a set. Like others have said... have fun and enjoy.

TomB · June 30, 2008 8:45AM

1894-S?

Walkerguy21D · June 30, 2008 10:36AM

<< 1894-S? >>

Absolutely - get those key dates first!

tightbudget · June 30, 2008 10:38AM

<< 1894-S? >>

I'd collect Barber dimes myself if I didn't have that problem. I can't bear having an empty hole in a set. It'd drive me insane.

Casey · June 30, 2008 11:18AM

Welcome to the Barber dime club! It's the series I focus on and is definitely challenging (my sig line below links to my AU collection) to find nice examples of the better dates, especially in the XF - AU range. Enjoy!

RYK · June 30, 2008 11:22AM

<< 1894-S? >>

I think that one can attain the sense of accomplishment for completing the Barber dime series without ever owning the 1894-S.

I think it is an excellent choice and wish you the best of luck.

TwoSides2aCoin · June 30, 2008 11:50AM

I'm hoping to complete my set of statehood quarters this year

Then, onto the territories.

MrSpud · June 30, 2008 12:49PM

look out for staple scratched on the reverse near the center of the coins, for some reason Barber dimes seem to have a tendency to get staple marks in that area. Also look out for harshly cleaned ones that are toned over, lots of those out there. I've also seen a 1904S barber dime altered to look like a 1901S. The dealer was a Barber collector and was embarrased when I showed him the 4 that had been altered to look like a 1, he had missed it. This was what I learned helping MrsSpud put together this set

She has made about a dozen upgrades since I took these pictures. Whenever she upgrades the set I get her leftovers for my lower grade set

bidask · June 30, 2008 1:01PM

Nice set there Mr Spud!

RunnersDad · July 1, 2008 2:34AM

Thank you everyone for your helpful advice and kind words. Also very nice set Mr. Spud...how long did it take you to assemble that? So is it safe to assume that the consensus is that getting the more expensive key dates out of the way first(or when they become available) is the play to make. Then focus on the remaining, higher mintage, barbers? I look forward to taking on the challenge!
And if I ever win the lottery or happen upon a large sum of money...Maybe, just maybe I will take a stab at a 94-S

mr1931S · July 1, 2008 3:01AM

Good luck in your endeavor.I once completed a set of these in F-VF-EF in the '80's going into the '90's (took me about 10 years to complete) and I can tell you it will be plenty of challenge for you.

Some of these dates are so scarce in other than worn-out or messed-with condition that you will likely be tearing your hair out at times.And when you do find them,they won't be cheap.1900-O...I settled for a dark VG for an awful long time until some nicer ones came onto the market.I don't remember the first coin I bought for my set but I do remember the last, a 1906-S that I bought from Art Kagin at a Denver show in the '90's.

A nicely matched and original circulated set of these is truly a joy to behold.

rhedden · July 1, 2008 3:27AM

There are a lot of people who decide to put together this set in either G/VG, or XF-AU58. Only a handful of people go for the full set in "BU" due to the cost and rarity, but I love the look of a fresh BU Barber dime, so I went down that road. For some reason, most XF-AU58 coins just don't do it for me in this series, in terms of eye appeal.

mr1931S · July 1, 2008 3:36AM

And if I ever win the lottery or happen upon a large sum of money...Maybe, just maybe I will take a stab at a 94-S

Art Kagin had standing orders to locate a '94-S for me IF I ever won the lottery.I would call him and let him know that such had happened.I told Art I would pay up to $1,000,000 or so for one of these.

rhedden · July 1, 2008 3:39AM

I will add and 1894-S to my set as soon as I find one with my metal detector. Otherwise, my set is as complete as it's going to get.

seanq · July 1, 2008 3:40AM

I had a nicely matched set of these in G-VG, assembled in the early 1990s. I sold it intact to help defray some expenses for my wedding. Somewhere on a 3-1/2" disk I have pictures of the whole set in the Whitman Bookshelf album, if I can ever locate them I'll post them to this thread.

It's a great set with lots of semi-keys and challenges (I agree with the poster above about the 1900-O, even in low grades finding nice unmolested examples can be tough), you'll have a great time no matter how you decide to approach it.

Sean Reynolds

pennyannie · July 1, 2008 4:03AM

I am also thinking of a set of Barber dimes. I was thinking of a set of the "P" mints only. Every week in coin world a coin dealer advertises 16 different years from "P" mints in BU for 60 bucks each. So far i have resisted the urge to order. What do you think i would get for my 60 bucks besides heartburn?

mr1931S · July 1, 2008 4:57AM

What do you think i would get for my 60 bucks besides heartburn?

I think you would get a cleaned or polished slider,worth perhaps 1/2 to a 1/3 of 60 bucks, for your 60 bucks.

pennyannie · July 1, 2008 6:11AM

Mr1874- I may call them and ask them before i buy them if they have been cleaned, wizzed, polished. You think they will tell me the thruth??

boyhowdy · July 1, 2008 6:13AM

Congratulations! I have been building Barber dime sets exclusively for nearly
10 years, mostly via eBay. Within months of getting a $30 scanner I was up and
running on the 'bay.

If you have budgetary constraints you need to decide what grade to aim for. A
74-piece set in G-VG will cost about $1000 to assemble. That's only buying full-rimmed
coins with a natural look. The semi-keys -- '92-S, '95, '96-O & S, '01-S and '03-S are
usually found with some problems even in the lower grades. Be patient and wait for that
nice 1896-O instead of rationalizing the purchase of a coin you are not really happy with.

After a year or so with Barber dimes I soon decided that the "value" grade for the series
is XF-AU. You get 95% of the detail level, usually with luster, for a fraction of the cost of
uncirculated coins. Check the registry sets, even those collectors with beaucoup finances
chase the nicer XF/AUs. Cost me about $12K to finish my XF+ toner set over 4-5 years.
I'm confident it would part out for 150% of that figure now. The better coins always
appreciate faster than the rest. So it is smarter to invest in a single $100 coin than in 10
$10 coins.

After a while you will realize there are a number of issues that are more uncommon than
the price charts suggest. You will see a pristine 1902-O dime in XF/AU and realize "this is
a rare coin". With experience you will hone your instincts to the point where certain coins
will jump out at you. It took me 18 months to locate a raw attractively toned XF 1896-O dime.
The CDN has the coin at $340 bid. Throw that sheet out! Expect to pay up to double sheet
for coins like that!

Anyone thinking of taking a dip in the Barber dime pool is welcome to send a PM to discuss the
series. I buy and sell under "sjt*ucla" on eBay.

Steve

boyhowdy · July 1, 2008 6:18AM

<Once you've done your research and studying and are confident and ready to buy, buy the 95-O first.>

Mostly right, but don't put out the big bux until you are completely comfortable with your grading eye.

Steve

boyhowdy · July 1, 2008 6:21AM

<I'd collect Barber dimes myself ... I can't bear having an empty hole in a set. It'd drive me insane. >

Buy a same-size replica for $5.

S

boyhowdy · July 1, 2008 6:23AM

Nice set MrSpud!

S

rhedden · July 1, 2008 9:20AM

If you think the 1902-O is hard to find in nice XF-AU, try finding one in MS64 that actually is an MS64. They are always overgraded or severely overpriced. I don't own this coin except for a scratched AU that I will be selling shortly.

The BU coins in this series are a true collecting challenge. It's so tough to find nice original Unc. coins, and they aren't cheap. The fact that most people collect circs. keeps the price from appreciating rapidly, which has made my "mostly BU" set a rather terrible investment. However, few things will turn your fellow collectors' heads like a complete set of Barbers (any denomination) in BU. Complete sets of BU Barbers are a serious endeavor even for the hard-core numismatist. Heck, some people on these boards have spent 2 years looking for a BU Barber as a Type coin, never mind completing the sets!

Regarding the advertisement for P-mint coins in Unc. for 60 bucks, I wouldn't touch that. I'd say that the comment regarding losing 2/3 of your money probably hit it on the head. Might as well buy "BU" coins with blurry photos on ebay. If you're going to do mint condition coins, stick to PCGS coins only! I would not even buy NGC coins in this series. And I don't know why anyone would want to buy the P-mints and skip the mintmarked coins- those are the good ones!

1900-O PCGS MS64

Darrell · July 1, 2008 10:39AM

I also collect Barber dimes and it has been my experience that fully original,attractive,PCGS 67's are very scarce. Even the high mintage dates like the 1911 that meet these standards are tough. If you look at Heritage's archives, you will see that the last PCGS 67 (1911) they sold was at the 2007 FUN show for $3220. This coin was dipped out white. Also the archives will show that many of the ones that they have sold were dipped out white. The PCGS pop for this date in 67 is 12 and two higher. I believe that some are unattractive,some are dipped out white and there are probably some resubmissions. If I am correct, then even in a date like the 1911, the number of fully original attractive PCGS 67's is much lower than most people realize.

Darrell

mr1931S · July 1, 2008 10:51AM

You think they will tell me the thruth??

I wouldn't think so.It's likely that initially you will get no response.You'll have to press for any lie or lies that might be forthcoming.

They probably have a return policy but the thing is it will still cost you to return it. An original BU common date Barber dime is about a $100 coin.You would rather have one of these for your $100 than three to five whizzed or polished sliders (These are really worth about $20-$30 apiece tops. If you can get it,that is) that you would be paying $180 to $300 for,right?

Here's a few tips to help one avoid getting burned when trying to buy these in strict mint state condition:

If the coin looks "chromy" to the naked eye, it's been polished. A true BU Barber dime,without toning, will look unmistakably "white." Look for light shades of gold and russet if natural toning is what you want.

Look at the coin with a 10x glass.If the coin has countless fine lines going every which direction,it's been whizzed. Any flatness on the hair below "RTY" in "LIBERTY" is an indication,especially on the Philadelphia issues,that the coin circulated for at least a short time.

And don't let toning fool you into thinking the coin is uncirculated when it's really not.Hiding wear with artificially applied toning is an old trick.

MrSpud · July 1, 2008 12:39PM

<< Also very nice set Mr. Spud...how long did it take you to assemble that? >>

Thanks, at the time that those pictures were taken we were about 2.5 years into putting that collection together. That's when we were living in Charlotte and MrsSpud was an active officer in the Charlotte coin club. She was very focused on just Barber Dimes and we attended every coin show in driving distance constantly looking for coins for that set. She knew every dealer that was into Barbers and she had them bringing out the good ones from their private stashes. She is still working on the set today about a year and a half later, only not as intensely as back then. For example she just found three upgrades at the last Long Beach show and three others at a small show in Anaheim but that has been the only ones this year so far.

Oh and here is her 95-O. It is an ANACS VG-10. It wasn't the first one she bought, but it was the first of the keys, after we got the hang of grading them and looking for problems. I think it is slightly undergraded.

bluelobster · July 1, 2008 12:54PM

Barber dimes would be a nice set to shoot for.

Some like blast white, I like 'em a bit darker with some color. either is generally avalable in the series,

post some pics when you get one

Franklinwho · July 3, 2008 2:39PM

<< Frankins are pretty easy. However if you dont like the look of them then no point in collecting them.
Collect whatever you like, there are no rules other than what one places on themself. >>

I like my franklins

I have decided that my first set will be Barber Dimes...

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