I don't post a lot but I do feel that I am qualified to give an opinion on Walkers.
If you have a lot of money, and want to collect slabs and inserts---you can fill your set at most major auctions or shows. Certainly, you can get MS64--65 coins from 1934 to 1947. This can be done fairly quickly---maybe in one day if you are lucky.
The "early" Walkers can also be found if there is no monetary concern---and if 'any' slab or insert is acceptable. You might get slowed down above the MS64 grade---especially with the 1921 coins and the 1919 coins and the 1917 S Obv coin and the sleeper 1920 D Walker. But, if ANY coin fits the collection, you can get it completed with a ton of bucks in MS64 and below.
However, if on the other hand, you want quality coins. And, if you want coins that haven't been cleaned or messed with----then, you quest likely will take some time. Maybe a very long time. Virtually ANY 'early' Walker in a grade above a true VF20 technical grade can be a hard coin to find on any given day. Most early dated XF--AU coins are true treasures. And, if the coin is a totally original patina coin----well you have a wonderful piece indeed. Same with early MS coins in the dates from 1916--1933S. These coins are few and far between with their "original skin". They are like hens teeth to find. And they are quite expensive too.
Walker collecting can be a lifelong endeavor. You CAN be frugal and get a wonderful set in say a fine12---VF20 condition. But, you can also spend your entire retirement fund on a top pop set in MS65 and above. It depends on how much you "like or love" the coin. It depends on what condition you choose to collect. And, it depends on whether just any coin will do---or whether you want your set to be "unique". It depends on whether you will accept a dipped coin or not?? And, it depends on whether you will accept a weakly struck coin---or whether you want strongly well defined specimens.
In short, it can be fairly easy with a lot of money and loose desires. Or it can be beyond difficult---with or without a lot of funds---and having strict guidelines. Bob [supertooth]
Thanks for the thoughtful and well spoken advice SUPERTOOTH. It is really appreciated. I dont have3 a lot of bucks, but do have the time to hunt up fairly good coins. I believe that there are still good deals to be found.
<< <i>Just make sure they have their frickin' thumbs. Lord, how many coins I've passed on because they don't have frickin' thumbs. [/q
Pendragon. I always look at/for several things: thumbs first, two thumbs rare even on MS66, sun and rays next, then shoes, breastplate and finally the flowers. Her facial details also considered. On the reverse, breast feathers. But I do agree that thumbs are the key.
What Supertooth said is certainly worthwhile. I suggest initially looking at a LOT of coins, made much easier via the internet these days, and study some price guides, and formulate a strategy depending on your budget and what appeals to you. Maybe you want to do a mixed grade set; earlier dates in lower grades, later dates in higher grades. If you are going to tackle the full set, I would urge you to focus on the key dates ONCE you get comfortable with the series, pricing, and grading nuaunces. The common ones will always be there, and the price progression is minimal. The key and better dates have gotten progressively harder to find and more expensive over the 30+ years I've spent on the series, and I see no indication that is going to change. Feel free to PM me anytime you have questions or want to share thoughts on the series. Greg
<< <i>Thanks for the thoughtful and well spoken advice SUPERTOOTH. It is really appreciated. I dont have3 a lot of bucks, but do have the time to hunt up fairly good coins. I believe that there are still good deals to be found. >>
Supertooth could write a book on the Walker series
<< <i><< Just make sure they have their frickin' thumbs. Lord, how many coins I've passed on because they don't have frickin' thumbs. [/q
Pendragon. I always look at/for several things: thumbs first, two thumbs rare even on MS66, sun and rays next, then shoes, breastplate and finally the flowers. Her facial details also considered. On the reverse, breast feathers. But I do agree that thumbs are the key. >>
I sold a raw 19D in XF45+ that had been lightly but obviously whizzed and retoned at FUN to a dealer specialist who paid me nearly double XF40 Bid for it....why? Because it was one of the few in existance at ANY grade that had a full crossing thumb and nearly full head details.
I've been semi-casually looking for a sexy 43-P, white (but natural), well-struck, with good thumbs for - oh - 6 months or so, with no luck. I've turned down a number of coins because I'm determined that I will stick to my set standards for that coin. It's so frustrating to see a potential coin and immediately see the blob where Liberty's hand should be. I don't even keep on looking at the coin after that.
I built a nicely matched short set of Walkers in one summer, MS65's and MS66's mostly from Heritage Auctions. Since then I have been upgrading when possible.
Great post Supertooth, you should post more often.
I put together a raw Walker set a few years ago. My coins range from F12-AU. I took my time and had a blast doing it. I did it for the enjoyment, not the investment.
To me, 2 things dictate what quality of a set you will be assembling: how much $$$$ you have to spend, and why you are assemblying the set. If it's for an investment and you have a lot of money to spend, it's one thing. If it's for the enjoyment, and you have limited funds, it's another.
My humble '63 mint registry set, not much, but it's mine!
Thanks to all for very good advice. I have gotten several new ideas that I didnt even think of. My special thanks to Walker Guy for the invite with questions. As I am learning, the fun is in the hunt!
If you live on the east coast-you may want to try a Philadelphia only set.
Advanced collector of BREWERIANA. Early beer advertising (beer cans, tap knobs, foam scrapers, trays, tin signs, lithos, paper, etc)....My first love...U.S. COINS!
Comments
If you have a lot of money, and want to collect slabs and inserts---you can fill your set at most major auctions or shows. Certainly, you can get MS64--65 coins from 1934 to 1947. This can be done fairly quickly---maybe in one day if you are lucky.
The "early" Walkers can also be found if there is no monetary concern---and if 'any' slab or insert is acceptable. You might get slowed down above the MS64 grade---especially with the 1921 coins and the 1919 coins and the 1917 S Obv coin and the sleeper 1920 D Walker. But, if ANY coin fits the collection, you can get it completed with a ton of bucks in MS64 and below.
However, if on the other hand, you want quality coins. And, if you want coins that haven't been cleaned or messed with----then, you quest likely will take some time. Maybe a very long time. Virtually ANY 'early' Walker in a grade above a true VF20 technical grade can be a hard coin to find on any given day. Most early dated XF--AU coins are true treasures. And, if the coin is a totally original patina coin----well you have a wonderful piece indeed. Same with early MS coins in the dates from 1916--1933S. These coins are few and far between with their "original skin". They are like hens teeth to find. And they are quite expensive too.
Walker collecting can be a lifelong endeavor. You CAN be frugal and get a wonderful set in say a fine12---VF20 condition. But, you can also spend your entire retirement fund on a top pop set in MS65 and above. It depends on how much you "like or love" the coin. It depends on what condition you choose to collect. And, it depends on whether just any coin will do---or whether you want your set to be "unique". It depends on whether you will accept a dipped coin or not?? And, it depends on whether you will accept a weakly struck coin---or whether you want strongly well defined specimens.
In short, it can be fairly easy with a lot of money and loose desires. Or it can be beyond difficult---with or without a lot of funds---and having strict guidelines. Bob [supertooth]
<< <i>Just make sure they have their frickin' thumbs. Lord, how many coins I've passed on because they don't have frickin' thumbs.
Pendragon. I always look at/for several things: thumbs first, two thumbs rare even on MS66, sun and rays next, then shoes, breastplate and finally the flowers. Her facial details also considered. On the reverse, breast feathers. But I do agree that thumbs are the key.
If you are going to tackle the full set, I would urge you to focus on the key dates ONCE you get comfortable with the series, pricing, and grading nuaunces. The common ones will always be there, and the price progression is minimal. The key and better dates have gotten progressively harder to find and more expensive over the 30+ years I've spent on the series, and I see no indication that is going to change.
Feel free to PM me anytime you have questions or want to share thoughts on the series.
Greg
<< <i>Thanks for the thoughtful and well spoken advice SUPERTOOTH. It is really appreciated. I dont have3 a lot of bucks, but do have the time to hunt up fairly good coins. I believe that there are still good deals to be found. >>
Supertooth could write a book on the Walker series
I would be the first in line to buy it
Check out his Top 10 set with pictures
Doc's Walkers
<< <i><< Just make sure they have their frickin' thumbs. Lord, how many coins I've passed on because they don't have frickin' thumbs. [/q
Pendragon. I always look at/for several things: thumbs first, two thumbs rare even on MS66, sun and rays next, then shoes, breastplate and finally the flowers. Her facial details also considered. On the reverse, breast feathers. But I do agree that thumbs are the key. >>
I sold a raw 19D in XF45+ that had been lightly but obviously whizzed and retoned at FUN to a dealer specialist who paid me nearly double XF40 Bid for it....why? Because it was one of the few in existance at ANY grade that had a full crossing thumb and nearly full head details.
My icon IS my coin. It is a gem 1949 FBL Franklin.
I put together a raw Walker set a few years ago. My coins range from F12-AU. I took my time and had a blast doing it. I did it for the enjoyment, not the investment.
To me, 2 things dictate what quality of a set you will be assembling: how much $$$$ you have to spend, and why you are assemblying the set. If it's for an investment and you have a lot of money to spend, it's one thing. If it's for the enjoyment, and you have limited funds, it's another.
<< <i>take this one, it looks lovely