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1911 Sporting Life cards - how the !*?%! did these only get a 2???
I just received back my cards from PSA today - most of the grades were just about where I expected, but I had two Sporting Life cards (including a Hal Chase) that I am shocked only got a 2.
The fronts are perfect, the corners are sharp; there is a slight diamond cut tilt to the front of each, but that's it. The backs have some glue mark stainings on them from having been in a scrapbook, but there is no paper loss, nothing extra stuck on the cards, and absolutely no creases.
So my question - how are these only a 2? With no paper loss and only some glue staining on the back, didn't these deserve better?? Is this staining on the back enough to downgrade to a 2, when the fronts literally look like a 7 or 8?

The fronts are perfect, the corners are sharp; there is a slight diamond cut tilt to the front of each, but that's it. The backs have some glue mark stainings on them from having been in a scrapbook, but there is no paper loss, nothing extra stuck on the cards, and absolutely no creases.
So my question - how are these only a 2? With no paper loss and only some glue staining on the back, didn't these deserve better?? Is this staining on the back enough to downgrade to a 2, when the fronts literally look like a 7 or 8?

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Comments
Steve
they have knocked down my post cereal for the same
My bad for trusting PSA to know how to properly grade pre-war cards. I expected something like a PSA 7 (MK) or something like that for these.
A PSA VG 3 card reveals some rounding of the corners, though not extreme. Some surface wear will be apparent, along with possible light scuffing or light scratches. Focus may be somewhat off-register and edges may exhibit noticeable wear. Much, but not all, of the card's original gloss will be lost. Borders may be somewhat yellowed and/or discolored. A crease may be visible. Printing defects are possible. Slight stain may show on obverse and wax staining on reverse may be more prominent. Centering must be 90/10 or better on the front and back.
While not excatly wax stains I think it speaks the same volume here.
Best looking 2's money can buy now.
Those are the best looking 2s on the planet!
I wonder if that's water based glue? They could be soaked in distilled water and remove all of it.
Nice cards - what do ya plan to do?
mike
Now we can't have every single submitter barging into PSA's office in Santa Ana and asking Joe Orlando or [fill in name of PSA grader] to justify the grade, but when there is a such a huge discrepancy between expected grade and given/actual grade, I do not think it is unreasonable for us AS THE CONSUMER/BUYER to have some recourse other than "crack and resubmit." In the same regard (and truly hesitate to bring up the subject of plifter), but if PSA thinks a Babe Ruth Goudey graded by GAI would not crossover, THAT IS PERFECTLY FINE. But as a consumer, I do not think it should be too much to ask PSA WHY IT WOULD NOT CROSS OVER.
I would tend to give PSA the benefit of the doubt (and perhaps submit a card or two every now and then) if I (and the rest of your) DID NOT know that, for example, a card can go from a PSA 8/9 to PSA 10 on a crack and resubmit notwithstanding the scrunity the cards go through.
/s/ JackWESQ
<< <i>With those glue stains the cards were graded properly.
A PSA VG 3 card reveals some rounding of the corners, though not extreme. Some surface wear will be apparent, along with possible light scuffing or light scratches. Focus may be somewhat off-register and edges may exhibit noticeable wear. Much, but not all, of the card's original gloss will be lost. Borders may be somewhat yellowed and/or discolored. A crease may be visible. Printing defects are possible. Slight stain may show on obverse and wax staining on reverse may be more prominent. Centering must be 90/10 or better on the front and back.
While not excatly wax stains I think it speaks the same volume here. >>
I get it, that the glue stains (or better said by fkw, the markings from an old photo album) are a significant issue. But even based on the definition seen here, wax staining would drop it to a PSA 3. When all other traits clearly represent a NM+ card (no rounded corners, no creases, perfect surface, slightest diamond tilt), I don't see how it can be dropped to a PSA 2. Call me crazy.
I like jackwesq's thought on getting some clarification from PSA - I think I will go this route. I may not get a grade to justify this being a $500 card, but it sure as heck is not a $50 one either.
I just can't understand the logic (from a collector's point of view) of not listing the problems with a card that explains the grade. They might not have much time for each card, but a simple checklist with pluses and minuses would be all the help in the world. From PSA's point of view it makes perfect sense- so you will crack and resubmit to pay several times for the same service. (It's like paying for a tank full of gas a couple or three times.) If they did the job properly the first time, they wouldn't get 'bonus' money for the 2nd or 3rd submission of the same card.
<< <i>Wow Scooter
Those are the best looking 2s on the planet!
I wonder if that's water based glue? They could be soaked in distilled water and remove all of it.
Nice cards - what do ya plan to do?
mike >>
Somebody not that long ago bought a psa 2 football hof rc and without the glue it's now a great looking 6. Just make sure and do your homework before you start.