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7070 people, what coins do you....

sparky64sparky64 Posts: 7,062 ✭✭✭✭✭
....put in the more modern spaces?
I have a VG 1938 Jefferson and a broken-up 1964 mint set for the .10, .25 & .50.
How about the clad .10, .25 & .50?
Do you go for certain years, grades, etc...?

I've always considered myself a type guy but never cared for albums.
But after reading all of the 7070 comments I went and bought one yesterday and have been having a blast with it.

"If I say something in the woods and my wife isn't there to hear it.....am I still wrong?"

My Washington Quarter Registry set...in progress

Comments

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    I put the keys in for the modern stuff
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    BBNBBN Posts: 3,761 ✭✭✭
    For the Jefferson nickel I used a 1940 FS. For clads I used proofs. I love the 7070. If you're OK with buying raw it gives you direction in what to buy as opposed to just buying random stuff. When I finish my first one I'm thinking serious of starting a second one.

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    #1 1951 Bowman Los Angeles Rams Team Set
    #2 1980 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
    #8 (and climbing) 1972 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
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    I broke up a 1964 proof set for the kennedy half slot, and used the extras to fill in the more modern holes.
    image
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    TootawlTootawl Posts: 5,877 ✭✭✭
    I out first year issue in my modern stuff.

    I try to put first or last year for everything else.
    PCGS Currency: HOF 2013, Best Low Ball Set 2009-2014, 2016, 2018. Appreciation Award 2015, Best Showcase 2018, Numerous others.
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    coinsarefuncoinsarefun Posts: 21,781 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I put whatever looks good to me. The cleanest looking ones I can get(for the money).Upgrade when you want.

    I'm trying to put a toned 7070 together so if some are key dates that's fine if not I'm OK with that as long as they look very nice together as a complete set. The SBA is turning a golden color already from another album so I put that in there. The Ike is also a nice golden color.

    I think that a 7070 should be how you want it to look. I started putting it together thinking OK what would be the popular way or the most saleable way. Then I realized when all is done this will be probably the last thing I ever sell so I want what I would like in there.


    Stefanie
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    mirabelamirabela Posts: 5,196 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Great question. My number one priority with those slots was to put a truly gorgeous and interesting coin in each, and to not spend much money doing it.

    For my Jefferson I've got a 50-D that I bought raw for $10, MS66 by my reckoning with nice light toning and *very* nearly full steps.

    My silver roosie is a beautiful target-toned unc 1958 that came out of a dealer's junk pile at melt cost. My silver washie is an incredible gem 1964 with outrageous toning from one of those cheesy plastic aftermarket year set holders with a felt/cardboard insert. My silver Kennedy came from another junk bin, a holder-toned choice unc a lot like the washie.

    My clad roosie is a 1967 from yet another cheesy year set holder, with the best target toning I've ever seen on a clad coin. My clad quarter is an 82-D from one of those private-issue mint sets of that year (remember, souvenir sets only from the mint) that I suppose would slab as a 67. My clad Kennedy is a prooflike unc 1986-P with a very distinctive die gouge that looks like a diagonal strike-through, right through the middle of GOD in IGWT. Over the years I've found a number of these, and I'm hoping that one day it gets somehow recognized.

    So, yeah, a beautiful coin on the cheap. That's the guiding principle.
    mirabela
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    jmj3esqjmj3esq Posts: 5,421
    I will never put a proof coin in my 7070. IMO they dont fit.

    As for what coins to put in the modern spots... Whatever looks good. Thats why I dont put proofs in my set. they just dont match with the rest of the set. They just stand out like a sore thumb.
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    I try to go with a first year or last year coin in the slot - i.e. - 1857 FC, 1859 IHC, 1864 IHC (Copper/Nickel) and 1864L IHC (Bronze)- feel that it gives a nice look and congruity to the set.
    currently putting together a EF/AU/BU 18th & 19th Century Type Set; and CC Morgan Set

    just completed 3d tour to Iraq and retired after 28+ years in the US Army
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    lordmarcovanlordmarcovan Posts: 45,020 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Back in my Dansco days, I did proofs for the modern stuff, until I had some problems with milk spots.

    Just cut up a mint set for your clads. One Roosie I always wanted as a type coin was a 1996-W, but never had one.

    Collector since 1976. On the CU forums here since 2001.

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    MeltdownMeltdown Posts: 9,246 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I put anything that has eye appeal the date is not so important on the modern stuff. I have a few unique clad toners that I really enjoy, but probably wouldn't have bought otherwise. Proofs do not look right sitting next to clads in the 7070 in my opinion.
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    TwoSides2aCoinTwoSides2aCoin Posts: 45,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I feel as though I'm going 35 in a 70 image
    Numismatically, that would be 3535 in a 7070.
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    BECOKABECOKA Posts: 16,961 ✭✭✭
    It just does not look right mixing proofs with circ stuff. I prefer to keep it all circulated.
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    << <i>It just does not look right mixing proofs with circ stuff. I prefer to keep it all circulated. >>



    In general I agree too with this, however, the modern page (last page) in my 7070 is exclusively proof. I think this is a decent look as all other coins are MS but since the entire last page is proof and has the words "MODERN" printed right on it - they seem to fit in the theme.
    image
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    Like tootawl, and jimmyman, I put first year of issue, or, if need be, last year of issue. I would NEVER put proofs in it. As a few members have already chimed in, they just dont look right sitting next to coins meant to circulate, and in the case of most 7070's, those coins are mostly circulated, then you get to a page that just blasts your retinas out of your head? Nah, no proofs.
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    sparky64sparky64 Posts: 7,062 ✭✭✭✭✭
    All good ideas.
    I kinda like the way the MS 1964's look for now. Will have to be selective with the clads and Jefferson.

    I can't believe how much this album has made me re-focus and realize how some of the stuff I had in 2x2's is garbage.

    "If I say something in the woods and my wife isn't there to hear it.....am I still wrong?"

    My Washington Quarter Registry set...in progress

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    BBNBBN Posts: 3,761 ✭✭✭
    I still like my proofs. The 7070 should be built how you want it. One thing I do like is there are so many ways to build a 7070. Toners, first year, last year, key coins PO-AG coins, you name it. My second one I may just do an AG-G album. Should be much easier to do. Not to mention I'm only doing gold in the one I'm doing now. image That page is a tad too pricey. image

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    #1 1951 Bowman Los Angeles Rams Team Set
    #2 1980 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
    #8 (and climbing) 1972 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
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    DorkGirlDorkGirl Posts: 9,994 ✭✭✭
    I love the dcam proofs sprinkled in my album. For me the 7070 is a celebration of our coinage and I love the way a proof Jefferson looks next to a toned Buffalo. But the real beauty is, it's your album, you can make it anything or anyway you want. There is no right or wrong.


    image


    image
    Becky
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    sparky64sparky64 Posts: 7,062 ✭✭✭✭✭
    DorkGirl
    Well said.
    That sums it up. Amen.

    "If I say something in the woods and my wife isn't there to hear it.....am I still wrong?"

    My Washington Quarter Registry set...in progress

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    HyperionHyperion Posts: 7,465 ✭✭✭
    definitely collectors choice....
    personally I never liked the unc/proof mix, but to each his own...
    I actually just opened unc Marine commem for the $1 slot... insta-classic design!!!
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    rgCoinGuyrgCoinGuy Posts: 7,478
    I agree with a lot of the posts so far, but Texas nationals is probably the closest to what I am doing. For instance, I have a 1970 S small date cent, and a 1996 W Dime. My set is still evolving, but I do like key dates for a type set (especially the modern ones that aren't expensive), and that seems to be the way my set is going.
    imageQuid pro quo. Yes or no?
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    Wil2008Wil2008 Posts: 273 ✭✭
    Hi Everyone..

    Its already been mentioned, but a 7070 is like a personal work of art....you put in it what your eye loves to look at...with some it will be proof, for others circulated. I have just started putting mine together and i can already tell...when finished it will be an album consisting of toned coins...i absolutely love the look... cheers and good luck
    everyone. Wil
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    coinsarefun, marmac, LindeDad, andree, robkool, TwoSides2aCoin, waterzooey, agentjim007
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    lkeneficlkenefic Posts: 9,335 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I view my 7070 as the type of coins that "Everyman" would use during the course of small business transactions. That being said, I seek out lightly circulated coins both for my "raison d'etre" and in keeping with my pocketbook. For the OP's question... I typically pull out nice looking modern coins from circulation (MS62-65 range). I do however have two exceptions... 1941 Jefferson cracked from ICG holder (MS67FS) as I had a difficult time finding an FS in circulation; and a 1942-S Lincoln cracked from a PCGS MS66 holder because I liked the look of this coin.
    Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;

    Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.
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    BBNBBN Posts: 3,761 ✭✭✭
    The 7070 may have been one of the best album/collecting tools ever created for coin collectors. You can get one of each of most of our coinage and be nicely organized.

    Positive BST Transactions (buyers and sellers): wondercoin, blu62vette, BAJJERFAN, privatecoin, blu62vette, AlanLastufka, privatecoin

    #1 1951 Bowman Los Angeles Rams Team Set
    #2 1980 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
    #8 (and climbing) 1972 Topps Los Angeles Rams Team Set
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    coolestcoolest Posts: 2,281 ✭✭✭
    for clad and other modern coins:
    1c 1972 DDO
    5c: 45-S FS, 1939-D FS
    10c: 1982 No P
    25c: 1983-P
    50c: 1970-D, 1974-D DDO
    $ 1972 type 2
    $ 1979 wide rim
    $ 2001 Proof

    All in the highest grade possible.

    And don't forget the bicentennials in MS 67 or 68 almost for free.

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