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I am a newbie who has discovered Dads pre-war collection and wants to sell. Goudys, Sport Kings, Ch

Hi, this is my first post and I look fwd to sharing my experiences with you and would appreciate your advice as I am new to the collector card hobby/(business?)

My Dad died in 1978 when I was 15. My Mom gave to my brother and I each a box of his cards. I never really looked at the cards and they remained in a box that moved with me over the years, always finding their place on a shelf in my closet. I knew the cards were valuable because my brother had sold some/all of his and bought a house. He had told me that he had a M Mantle rookie.

About a month ago, I had to empty my closet due to some home improvements. I took a little time, opened the box and looked through the cards. I recognized some names like Knute Rockne, Bobby Jones, and Ty Cobb. I saw that they were old, and decided to do a search on the internet. I googled Sport Kings Gum, National Chicle, and Play Ball. I soon learned that my Dad had saved some desirable cards. I read reports that indicated some cards in the sets had sold for tens and hundreds of thousand of dollars. I began to dream of early retirement, owning a bigger boat, and spending more time pursuing my reel passion, fishing. I went out and put them in my safety deposit box - no more closet shelf for them...

After some research I learned of an entire industry of "collecting" that was previously unknown to me. I was fascinated. I also became aware of the forums such as this that share many similarities to the forums I regularly participate in on the subject of boating and fishing. I am confident that I will get all the help I seek here, and also get slammed when I fail to post a picture correctly, just as I would on the boating and fishing forums. I also came to realize that because of the conditions of my cards, it was not likely I would be retiring early or getting the bigger boat. The condition is not poor and it is not mint, it is somewhere in the middle, 4-6; 3-7, who knows? None have been graded.

All that being said, here’s what I have;
(26) 1933 Goudeys Sport Kings Gum (no ruth);
(40) 1934-1935 Diamond Stars;
(22) 1941 Play Ball (no Ted W, no Joe D, no Lefty Grove);
(29) 1935 National Chicle Football Stars (no Bronco);
plus a bunch of western/indian, Red Man cards. It is my desire to sell these cards as my heart is really not into collecting them, I never did hold any sentimental value on them, and I hope that I might help someone complete their collection if I get them into circulation.

Here is where the questions come in. I would like some of your opinions as to the quality of the cards. I have taken 300 DPI scans of many cards and can email upon request. The 50 KB size limit here is too small IMO.
What are some of the considerations I should take into account to sell these cards?
What are the benefits of selling as a set vs. individual cards (I have no ebay sale history)?
Should I have them all graded? If so, should I send in all at once, one at a time, should I send to a broker to have them graded?
Assuming the average quality is a 4-5, how much would it cost to have them all graded?
What are the more desirable grading companies for prewar cards?
Is there someone on Long Island, NY, a trusted agent of this site that can put an eyeball on these card to give me direction as to whether or not they should be graded?
I look fwd to my experiences here on the forum and appreciate all comments & suggestions. I get online about 2-3X per week, so don't be offended if I am not too quick to reply

Best regards, Kurt
KurtGett@verizon.net

Comments

  • KikoKiko Posts: 93 ✭✭
    Use photobucket to get your scans up. I had the same problem a few weeks ago and the guys chimed in and helped me.

    Here's a link to a thread that shows how to do it. Hopefully the link will work. If not - search threads authored by Kiko and you can find the thread on scanning. Once you get scans up, you may want to try the sports card and memorabilia forum. it gets more traffic. I you bust in with scans, you'll get lots of advice from these people. they are very knowledgable and helpful. Unfortunately, I don't know anything about pre-war cards. Good luck

    http://forums.collectors.com/messageview.cfm?catid=11&threadid=488495&highlight_key=y&keyword1=picture
    Working on these raw sets:
    54 & 55 Bowman
    55, 56, 58, & 60 Topps.
    Have lots of cards, including some PSAs, 53-58 to trade.
    Also, have Football 55-57 to trade for BB cards.

    YOU DON'T RUN ON ROBERTO CLEMENTE!!!
  • KikoKiko Posts: 93 ✭✭
    Also - turn on your private message function so people can contact you offline...Separately (and just my opinion), I'd probably have them graded by PSA. You'll get a number of different opinions on that though.

    Good luck.
    Working on these raw sets:
    54 & 55 Bowman
    55, 56, 58, & 60 Topps.
    Have lots of cards, including some PSAs, 53-58 to trade.
    Also, have Football 55-57 to trade for BB cards.

    YOU DON'T RUN ON ROBERTO CLEMENTE!!!
  • Thanks for the advice. I am working on getting scans onto photbucket. They will be under KurtGettCards
    Regards, KG
  • Bosox1976Bosox1976 Posts: 8,568 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Good luck - sounds like your dad had some neat stuff.
    Mike
    Bosox1976
  • bluemarlinbluemarlin Posts: 627 ✭✭✭
    Sounds like some sweet cards Kurtgett,Can't wait to see some scans of those.

    Jake
  • Good luck with your collection. I am sure you will do well with it.
    Tim
  • I had a learning curve about 5 years ago w/ my 70's era cards. My take is this: the local dealer will tell you grading is just not needed, and will make you a low ball offer. Don't bother with a local dealer.

    Get the cards graded at PSA and then put them up for auction - ebay or a national card auction. The grade gives buyers a baseline to work with and gives you a market value. High quality scans will help finalize the worth of the card to each potential buyer.

    Don't use the thin "penny saver" sleaves or hard plastic holders for the cards. Use the Card Saver I or Card Saver II holders. Be very careful with the corners. Condition drives the card's value and the corners are one condition you can control.

    Look at past sales on ebay and other auctions to determine rough value. The price guides are gross estimates.

    Get your brother to do the same thing with his cards even if he's not wanting to sell them today. It will help preserve the cards and give you a basis for insurance.

    Good luck. PM me anytime.
    1964 stand ups
    1975 mini's
    1954 Wilson Franks
  • Thanks for the advice.
    I have decided to have them graded, but I am haviong trouble understanding the fee schedules.
    I am going to start with the Chicle Football cards first. It is my intention to send the whole set in at once. I am somewhat confused as to the fee schedules.
    Lets say I think my Knute is a 5. Do I consult the SMR report to see that it's est value is $1,200 and then that becomes my "declared value". Who's declared value is it? Mine, or PSA's? What the heck does declared value have to do with the attributes of a card?

    Grading a Knute from that set should be no different than grading Ben Smith. Does this imply that the more valuable the card= the more scrutiny it gets?

    If I think that my Chicles are between a 3 - 5, what service type should I choose? ( I am in no hurry. They sat in a closet for 30 years and few more will not make a difference)

    Best Regards, KG
  • jimq112jimq112 Posts: 3,511 ✭✭✭
    Kurt, the declared value is the amount you would want the card insured for. You obviously wouldn't want $100 insurance on what is probably a $2000 card, so PSA figures you'll be reasonable with that.

    It theoretically makes no difference in the grading whether it is a $10 card or a $10000 card, but they grade the cards and it's their rules.

    psa 3-5 chicles are probably ok at a lower service if they are commons and also low #s under 24. The high numbers are valuable even in rough shape.

    Once you have some scans here I think you'll get accurate estimates of grades and some help with values.

    Sounds like you have some nice cards image
    image
  • GriffinsGriffins Posts: 6,076 ✭✭✭
    If you're sending an entire set at once email Joe Orlando and see if they'll give you a bit of a break. He's often posted that they will, and I've found him to be very accommodating and responsive. At the worst he'll say he can't.

    Always looking for Topps Salesman Samples, pre '51 unopened packs, E90-2, E91a, N690 Kalamazoo Bats, and T204 Square Frame Ramly's

  • swartz1swartz1 Posts: 4,911 ✭✭✭
    Make sure you do not look over the "true value" of the card for insurance purpose...I learned this the hard way - as a card was damaged and the insurance value was looked at - but I was compensated well - so dont sell yourself short to try to save a few dollars - especially on these higher dollar cards...good luck !!


    Looking for 1970 MLB Photostamps
    - uncut


    Positive Transactions - tennesseebanker, Ahmanfan, Donruss, Colebear, CDsNuts, rbdjr1, Downtown1974, yankeeno7, drewsef, mnolan, mrbud60, msassin, RipublicaninMass, AkbarClone, rustywilly, lsutigers1973, julen23 and nam812, plus many others...
  • KarbKarb Posts: 557 ✭✭✭
    Wow! That '41 Foxx is awesome. You've got some nice cards there.
    Robert

    Hoarding silver and collecting history
  • The insurance value makes sense. Thanks for that bit of info.
    I just put a few more cards onto photobucket. Many of the Diamond Stars have that mark that you see in the upper right corner on the back of the cards. Does this affect the rating or would an unmarked card get the same rating, but without the MK indicator?
    How does a mark like that on the back affect the value?

    The way I see it regarding the declared value is that I will have a handfull (maybe 15 cards) that I will put over the $500 thresehold, thereby mandating a $35 fee and for the rest, those under $500 it would be $15 per card. I am going with the assumption that these cards will average less than 4 and I will use the price guides value for a 5 as my Declared value. No science or experience here, just my warped way of thinking.

    I also want to have some fun with it, so I when I send in a set for grading, I am going to publish my estimates for the grade here. I have only seen picutres of graded cards on the internet and never a high quality scan. I have never actually held a graded card and examined it first hand. So this should be fun.

    The 1941 Play Jimie Foxx is in nice shape. Most of the Play Ball are similar in condition to that, except Eddie Miller. I like the quality of the Playball series. the color is real nice (listen to me. like I know what I am talking about...)
    I loaded the 1935 Diamond Star Foxx tonight. That is one of the cards with a mark on the back.

    http://s273.photobucket.com/albums/jj226/KurtGettCards/Link To Photos

    Best Regards, Kurt

  • KikoKiko Posts: 93 ✭✭
    very very nice..you've come a long way since your first post...best of luck.
    Working on these raw sets:
    54 & 55 Bowman
    55, 56, 58, & 60 Topps.
    Have lots of cards, including some PSAs, 53-58 to trade.
    Also, have Football 55-57 to trade for BB cards.

    YOU DON'T RUN ON ROBERTO CLEMENTE!!!
  • image
    Nice cards!

    MY 2 cents--- grade them all except the Miller. The crease will bring it to a PSA1/2.

    image should bringin $$$$!
    succesful deals :richtree, Bosox1976, Bkritz, mknez, SOM, cardcounter2, ddfamf, cougar701, mrG, Griffins : thanks All

    Go Phillies
  • WOW...I have seen many come in here talkin' but very few end up walkin'! Kurt, those are fantastic cards and thanks for sharing the story and pics with us.

    Mike
  • I am getting the hang of this forum, but the functionality of the Private Message system has much to be desired. It is inferior to the one I use on the boating forums I use. However, the members here are even more helpful than my fishing friends, and I am very thankful for all the help.

    I just put all of my 1941 Play Ball series on photobucket. I would like your opinion on the quality of Indian Bob Johnson (scan 10016) and Charlie Keller (scan 10017) I think these are 2 of the best in the set. Jimmie Foxx is there too.

    Give me your feedback so I can see if my eye for cards is getting "trained".

    Best Regards, Kurt Link to more photos
  • Bottom9thBottom9th Posts: 2,695 ✭✭
    Great cards and welcome to the forum!
  • Beautiful cards Kurt. Good luck with whatever you decide to do with your cards. You have what high percentage of the collectors dream of having a Cobb, Rockne, Foxx etc.... Anyhow, when you do get them graded, please share your grades with us, I can vouch for all of us. We can't wait to see what grades you get. Good luck to you and welcome to the boards!!!image
  • samspopsamspop Posts: 1,993 ✭✭✭
    Those are incredible cards!! Please keep us posted on their progress!!
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