Are there coins so worn as to not have a date...

TwoSides2aCoin · January 30, 2008 5:14AM

... but still have a strong collector value ?

Please show a photo and explain for those who might need an education. ( like me

)

claychaser · January 30, 2008 5:16AM

dbldie55 · January 30, 2008 5:20AM

A chain cent comes to mind.

seanq · January 30, 2008 5:26AM

It's identifiable as a 1913-S type II from the reverse, this particular date is the rarest of the "two feather" varieties, with only three or four known.

I'd also include 1916 Standing Liberty Quarters to this mix, they can be attributed by other design features even when dateless.

Sean Reynolds

tahoe98 · January 30, 2008 5:28AM

how about the 3 leg buff?

CarsonCityGold · January 30, 2008 5:34AM

1921 Peace Dollar - PCGS slabbed PO1

itsnotjustme · January 30, 2008 5:47AM

My Chain Cent!

JJM · January 30, 2008 5:52AM

VERY

coins

cladking · January 30, 2008 6:42AM

I'm afraid I don't recall who mentioned it but the other day
someone said a nice dateless '16/ 16 nickel is worth $600.

You can tell by doubling in the feathers (and braids I believe).

pocketpiececommems · January 30, 2008 6:47AM

Any one year commemorative.

pb2y · January 30, 2008 7:10AM

Another Chain Cent attributed as an S-4.

BECOKA · January 30, 2008 7:20AM

Great thread.

57loaded · January 30, 2008 7:37AM

<< Any one year commemorative. >>

great point.

thanks for the other coins posts and what is the atribution for the buffalo feathers?

MarkJude · January 30, 2008 8:43AM

Thanks for the great post and pictures -

percyb · January 30, 2008 9:19AM

are these what you call, raw? How raw can they git?

pb2y · January 30, 2008 9:23AM

Raw???
Large Cent planchet.

GoldenEyeNumismatics · January 30, 2008 9:45AM

Anyone have a pic of a 1916 SLQ with no date visible?

holeinone1972 · January 30, 2008 9:52AM

POTD post of the day nominee.

Cool.

seateddime · January 30, 2008 9:52AM

nice coins

seanq · January 30, 2008 1:21PM

<< Anyone have a pic of a 1916 SLQ with no date visible? >>

Here's one from Teletrade, a PCGS G-6 (link to auction)

Sean Reynolds

lope208 · January 30, 2008 1:58PM

Just wondering how one can tell that it's a 1916 SLQ and not a 1917 Variety I? Are there noticeable differences?

OnWithTheHunt · January 30, 2008 3:50PM

Here's a 1916/16 Doubled Die Buffalo, dateless. Pickup points are at the ends of the two longest feathers and beneath the short feather. Also see how thick the braid ribbons are compared to a normal coin.
Also my first attempt at a picture post.

seanq · January 30, 2008 3:56PM

<< Just wondering how one can tell that it's a 1916 SLQ and not a 1917 Variety I? Are there noticeable differences? >>

Yes, I forget the details but the three areas that I remember being different are the beaded border behind the head, the curl at the bottom of Miss Liberty's dress, and the ornamentation on the shield. I know it's been addressed here on the Forum in more detail, you can try the search function to hunt the posts down.

Sean Reynolds

Coxe · January 30, 2008 4:12PM

How can you and PCGS be sure it is not a 1922 high relief?

<< 1921 Peace Dollar - PCGS slabbed PO1

>>

TwoSides2aCoin · January 30, 2008 11:23PM

<< Here's a 1916/16 Doubled Die Buffalo, dateless. Pickup points are at the ends of the two longest feathers and beneath the short feather. Also see how thick the braid ribbons are compared to a normal coin.
Also my first attempt at a picture post.

>>

Thank you sooooooooooo much for this information. Your first attempt is a bit of heroics for me

TwoSides2aCoin · January 30, 2008 11:30PM

I personally would like to thank those of you who've shared already. Your input is of great interest to many hobbyists.

57loaded · January 30, 2008 11:36PM

as mentioned earlier one could do this with the State quarter series? I wonder if there would be a market for that

but again thanls for posting the details about the buffalo and the SLQ as well!

veryfine · January 31, 2008 12:48AM

<< 

<< Anyone have a pic of a 1916 SLQ with no date visible? >>

Here's one from Teletrade, a PCGS G-6 (link to auction)

Sean Reynolds >>

I do not consider this to be a dateless 1916 as the "6" is clearly visible. However, it is a great example of a low grade 1916. You will quickly realize the many differences between this date and the 17 T1, even in the lowest grades. The head on a 16 cuts into the beaded border, and the drapery is not as curved at the bottom by Liberty's right foot. My favorite is the shield difference. On AU-MS coins, the shield has an obvious design difference within the central area, but that wears away very quickly. Take a good look at the entire edge of the shield. In low grades the 16 has little or no detail, but a 17 T1 will always have sharply defined rivets on the upper right shield. Even at the bottom of the grading scale, this feature is obvious from a mile away. Other differences are in the hairstyle and drapery extended to Liberty's right hand. The stars on a 17 T1 are always sharply defined, but no so on a 16. They are mushy and blurred, and in low grades, barely visible. It is impossible for a 1916 to have the same sharp detail as a 1917. When one sees a heavily worn, dateless T 1 with certain clearly defined design elements, it is most certainly a 1917 T1, 1917-D T1 or 1917-S T1.
Be careful when buying a raw, dateless T 1 advertised as a 1916. For those of us who know better, it is one of the easiest coins to spot, but if you're not sure, be very careful and do your homework.

Dennis88 · January 31, 2008 4:19AM

<< 

<< 

<< Anyone have a pic of a 1916 SLQ with no date visible? >>

Here's one from Teletrade, a PCGS G-6 (link to auction)

Sean Reynolds >>

I do not consider this to be a dateless 1916 as the "6" is clearly visible. However, it is a great example of a low grade 1916. You will quickly realize the many differences between this date and the 17 T1, even in the lowest grades. The head on a 16 cuts into the beaded border, and the drapery is not as curved at the bottom by Liberty's right foot. My favorite is the shield difference. On AU-MS coins, the shield has an obvious design difference within the central area, but that wears away very quickly. Take a good look at the entire edge of the shield. In low grades the 16 has little or no detail, but a 17 T1 will always have sharply defined rivets on the upper right shield. Even at the bottom of the grading scale, this feature is obvious from a mile away. Other differences are in the hairstyle and drapery extended to Liberty's right hand. The stars on a 17 T1 are always sharply defined, but no so on a 16. They are mushy and blurred, and in low grades, barely visible. It is impossible for a 1916 to have the same sharp detail as a 1917. When one sees a heavily worn, dateless T 1 with certain clearly defined design elements, it is most certainly a 1917 T1, 1917-D T1 or 1917-S T1.
Be careful when buying a raw, dateless T 1 advertised as a 1916. For those of us who know better, it is one of the easiest coins to spot, but if you're not sure, be very careful and do your homework. >>

Great post

. Didn't know that

Are there coins so worn as to not have a date...

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