Proof Ike $1 Dipped in e.Z.est B4 and AftR Pix...
DieClash
Posts: 3,688 ✭✭✭
The stuff works as advertised!
The question is: should you do it? 
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BONGO HURTLES ALONG THE RAIN SODDEN HIGHWAY OF LIFE ON UNDERINFLATED BALD RETREAD TIRES
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BONGO HURTLES ALONG THE RAIN SODDEN HIGHWAY OF LIFE ON UNDERINFLATED BALD RETREAD TIRES
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Comments
The dip in alcohol (remember that alcohol and water do mix) will help the drying of the coin without spotting.
Water, especially hard water, can cause spotting. The alcohol helps to eliminate it and it is far less harmful than acteone.
Unless of course your using Jim Beam then its anybodies guess!
The name is LEE!
Now come on -- be honest, good as original??? A good many ug-toned Ikes wanna know...
<< <i>It's hard to tell from the photos, but how are the mirrored fields? Are they still "absolutely" mirrors, or is there a haze?
Now come on -- be honest, good as original??? A good many ug-toned Ikes wanna know... >>
Akbeez, the mirrors look true! But under significant magnification (20X) you can see some areas on the surface; they look like tiny pock marks in the mirrors where the worst toning reactants used to exist. This would be the damage of toning IMO rather than the dip. The dip simply removed the toned chemical byproducts.
ModernCrapNut - I swirled it in the dip for 4 seconds then proceeded to rinse in tap water and cleanse with mild (liquid) soap per the instructions on the container. The time from the dip to the tap water was about another 5 seconds before the rinse (total exposure to the chemical was 9 seconds). The instructions on the container indicate not to exceed more than 15 seconds in the dip to prevent damage. The stuff is indicated for Proof coins and Uncirculated coins only and to be careful to test when applying to copper coins. The dip was not diluted. I used it straight from the manufacturer's container that it was shipped.
Heres another before and after. This one's a Silver Proof (it actually went through the dip a second time, as per the instructions on the container - this is the one that shows the pock marks described above - the first coin has some signs of being toned, but the toning compounds were not as harsh on the surface as with the silver coin). The first coin in the OP is a clad proof.
These coins were bought by me directly from the mint and cracked out of their lenses and placed in a Whitman Album shortly thereafter. All of the toning are a result of being stored in the Whitman album for 17 years. Three years ago, I moved all of my Proof and Unc. coins from Whitman's to Intercept Shield albums because of the type of toning and haze that you see in these images. None of the coins have worsened or turned in the Intercept Shields since. I will continue to monitor what happens to these specimens over the years.
I must say I am quite pleased with the results, but I do feel a little pang of guilt for removing the butt-ugly natural surfaces (but that goes away pretty quickly)
Makes you wonder what kind of treatments other raw coins have gone through over the years.
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BONGO HURTLES ALONG THE RAIN SODDEN HIGHWAY OF LIFE ON UNDERINFLATED BALD RETREAD TIRES
<< <i>Just for the record, running water will remove all the E-Z-Est.
The dip in alcohol (remember that alcohol and water do mix) will help the drying of the coin without spotting.
Water, especially hard water, can cause spotting. The alcohol helps to eliminate it and it is far less harmful than acteone.
Unless of course your using Jim Beam then its anybodies guess! >>
Good point! I did not rinse these in alcohol. But I will remember your advice the next time.
Drink the Jim Beam and rinse the coin in isopropyl aclohol!
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BONGO HURTLES ALONG THE RAIN SODDEN HIGHWAY OF LIFE ON UNDERINFLATED BALD RETREAD TIRES
<< <i>I'd like to see it tried on silver eagles -- milk spot removal? Anyone? >>
I have a bunch of Silver Eagles, but so far (knock on wood) no milk spots.
Here's another image. This one had even worse toning. It's an Unc. Ike and received the same treatment as the others. One bad side-effect is that all of the ugly bag marks, scracthes and moles are much more apparent. But still an improvement IMO.
In the long run, the major drawback is that whatever is left of the original surfaces is almost nil after repeat dips. Consider the ongoing argument on these boards vis-a-vis "blast white" versus "toned" and then how many ATs are there that have been dipped blast white and then re-AT'd?
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BONGO HURTLES ALONG THE RAIN SODDEN HIGHWAY OF LIFE ON UNDERINFLATED BALD RETREAD TIRES
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BONGO HURTLES ALONG THE RAIN SODDEN HIGHWAY OF LIFE ON UNDERINFLATED BALD RETREAD TIRES