return shipping to PSA and other questions
toomers
Posts: 30
1) On the form there is no space to list a price x the amount per card and then add the rate that's in the chart.
At first I thought i had to pay what the chart indicated until I looked below and looks like I am suppose to pay an additional amount per card after already paying a whopping amount for the shipping, not to mention the grading costs.
It's the first time I used this form, so, just to be sure, DO I HAVE TO ADD AN AMOUNT PER CARD and then add to the stated amount in the chart?
2) Why can't PSA just send me items from two different submission forms in one package, telling them I WILL WAIT UNTIL THEY ARE DONE WITH THEM ALL so I don't have to pay another outrageous amount for shipping? Will PSA go along with this? I'd rather wait a week or two than pay another $15.
3) I am sending off 1975 topps mini cards and wonder why I must use cardsaver I when the slightly smaller card saver would be better for protecting being the card is smaller. Anyone have a good answer for this? It doesn't make me feel good to see on the submission form that they won't be responsible for damage to cards if sent in cardsaver II. If cardsaver II is the slightly smaller pouch, wouldn't it make more sense to use the smaller pouch for a smaller card or logic plays no role here?
4) Anyone know if such mini cards would be the same price as for "regular" sized cards in regards to return shipping cost of 19 cents per card (that addtional fee that you'd think would be part of the grading cost).
5) how do you figure the value of a card? what people typically pay for on ebay, or what's in a catalog by our OWN opinion of the grade??? So highly subjective, isn't it, unless there's some secret to it that I am unaware of!!!!
I hope someone here has the answers as you can't expect to get a reply from PSA right away via email..maybe I could call them, but I think someone here should be able to help.
THANKS SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
At first I thought i had to pay what the chart indicated until I looked below and looks like I am suppose to pay an additional amount per card after already paying a whopping amount for the shipping, not to mention the grading costs.
It's the first time I used this form, so, just to be sure, DO I HAVE TO ADD AN AMOUNT PER CARD and then add to the stated amount in the chart?
2) Why can't PSA just send me items from two different submission forms in one package, telling them I WILL WAIT UNTIL THEY ARE DONE WITH THEM ALL so I don't have to pay another outrageous amount for shipping? Will PSA go along with this? I'd rather wait a week or two than pay another $15.
3) I am sending off 1975 topps mini cards and wonder why I must use cardsaver I when the slightly smaller card saver would be better for protecting being the card is smaller. Anyone have a good answer for this? It doesn't make me feel good to see on the submission form that they won't be responsible for damage to cards if sent in cardsaver II. If cardsaver II is the slightly smaller pouch, wouldn't it make more sense to use the smaller pouch for a smaller card or logic plays no role here?
4) Anyone know if such mini cards would be the same price as for "regular" sized cards in regards to return shipping cost of 19 cents per card (that addtional fee that you'd think would be part of the grading cost).
5) how do you figure the value of a card? what people typically pay for on ebay, or what's in a catalog by our OWN opinion of the grade??? So highly subjective, isn't it, unless there's some secret to it that I am unaware of!!!!
I hope someone here has the answers as you can't expect to get a reply from PSA right away via email..maybe I could call them, but I think someone here should be able to help.
THANKS SO MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
have just these left, ALL OF 1975 mini set: brett: bvg 8.5, rose psa 8, ryan psa 7, bobby bonds and carl yastrzemski both at psa 8 but will get reviewed, and ungraded fred lynn rookie that i won't get graded as it'll only be a 7 to 8, and the following i plan to get graded: reggie jackson, 1962-mvp card, 1967 mvp card, hank aaron
0
Comments
Figure out the total and put it in the space provided.
At first I thought i had to pay what the chart indicated until I looked below and looks like I am suppose to pay an additional amount per card after already paying a whopping amount for the shipping, not to mention the grading costs.
Thats right if you exceed the maximum number of cards listed on the back of the form.
It's the first time I used this form, so, just to be sure, DO I HAVE TO ADD AN AMOUNT PER CARD and then add to the stated amount in the chart?
YES
2) Why can't PSA just send me items from two different submission forms in one package, telling them I WILL WAIT UNTIL THEY ARE DONE WITH THEM ALL so I don't have to pay another outrageous amount for shipping? Will PSA go along with this? I'd rather wait a week or two than pay another $15.
Thats there pracitice and no they wont wait until your other order is complete...lol
3) I am sending off 1975 topps mini cards and wonder why I must use cardsaver I when the slightly smaller card saver would be better for protecting being the card is smaller. Anyone have a good answer for this? It doesn't make me feel good to see on the submission form that they won't be responsible for damage to cards if sent in cardsaver II. If cardsaver II is the slightly smaller pouch, wouldn't it make more sense to use the smaller pouch for a smaller card or logic plays no role here?
Need to use card saver 1s
4) Anyone know if such mini cards would be the same price as for "regular" sized cards in regards to return shipping cost of 19 cents per card (that addtional fee that you'd think would be part of the grading cost).
Same price
5) how do you figure the value of a card? what people typically pay for on ebay, or what's in a catalog by our OWN opinion of the grade??? So highly subjective, isn't it, unless there's some secret to it that I am unaware of!!!!
The value is completely up to you...it should be what you would want the post office to reimburse you for if it was lost or damaged.
I hope someone here has the answers as you can't expect to get a reply from PSA right away via email..maybe I could call them, but I think someone here should be able to help.
Welcome!!!
Jeff
If you are shipping 20 cards with an insured value of $450, your s&h would be $15.40
If you are shipping 150 cards with an insured value of $1,000, your s&h would be $12.35 + .19(50)=$12.35+9.50=$21.85
The cost per item charge (In this case .19) is only for orders of 100 cards or more, and applies only to the cards over 100, so cards 101-150
2. You can call cust. service and ask them if they do this, but I am betting that they won't. If they do accept this type of shipping, ask them how they want you to mark the sub form to avoid your order being put on the problem shelf.
3. You are right about sometimes a smaller holder might hold smaller cards better, but do not do it. My first order I sent in factory set fresh cards in CS II's, and they all came back PSA 6's with small surface creases. They suggest CS 1's because it is easier for them to remove the card from when they examine it. DO NOT SEND THE CARDS IN ANYTHING, BUT CS II'S
4. Mini's are considered regular cards
5. They say to consider a card's insured value as raw. As the grade you think you will get will very rarely happen.
Hope that helps, and good luck!!
Edited to correct math!!
<< <i>1. For shipping use the chart like this:
If you are shipping 20 cards with an insured value of $450, your s&h would be $15.40
If you are shipping 150 cards with an insured value of $1,000, your s&h would be $12.35 + .19(150)=$12.35+28.50=$40.85
The cost per item is only for orders of 100 cards or more
2. You can call cust. service and ask them if they do this, but I am betting that they won't. If they do accept this type of shipping, ask them how they want you to mark the sub form to avoid your order being put on the problem shelf.
3. You are right about sometimes a smaller holder might hold smaller cards better, but do not do it. My first order I sent in factory set fresh cards in CS II's, and they all came back PSA 6's with small surface creases. They suggest CS 1's because it is easier for them to remove the card from when they examine it. DO NOT SEND THE CARDS IN ANYTHING, BUT CS II'S
4. Mini's are considered regular cards
5. They say to consider a card's insured value as raw. As the grade you think you will get will very rarely happen.
Hope that helps, and good luck!! >>
Colebear, are you sure about your shipping calculation for a 150 card order? It wouldn't be (.19 x 50) + 12.35? It seems like you would be double for the first 100 cards.
I corrected it
<< <i>Your right alfonz24!! That is what I get for doing math past midnight
I corrected it >>
No problem. I wish you would mess up in the PSA fantasy baseball league. You are kicking some serious arse.
<< <i>
<< <i>Your right alfonz24!! That is what I get for doing math past midnight
I corrected it >>
No problem. I wish you would mess up in the PSA fantasy baseball league. You are kicking some serious arse. >>
LOL, keep on wishing!!!
Did you scan the cards ahead of time and go to a notary public before placing in the package so you can get money back for the damage?
The fees the fees the fees..and then shipping can't be combined??? Ridiculous. I'm gonna see if I can push for a new method. It's a waste of precious fuel as well to have more packages being delivered than has to be.
I don't blame them 1 bit for not wanting to have to deal with it.
Commissions
Check out my Facebook page
hmmm
what do you think of using cardsaver II for mini cards? I'd think you'd have to be a bumbling idiot to ruin a mini card when pulling out from one of these holders.
<< <i>so you think to have 6 cards graded with a voucher and only 12 others with a similar service level using the June special and having them sent back in the same package is asking for way too much?
>>
Yes.
Commissions
Check out my Facebook page
<< <i>
Did you scan the cards ahead of time and go to a notary public before placing in the package so you can get money back for the damage?
<< <i>
No, it was my mistake. It says, in very plain English, use CS 1. If I do not follow procedure, I do not get money back.
What is a notary public going to do, I am a notary for MN and we verify who is signing a form, we do not verify contents, unless those contents have either a passport or a driver's license. If someone brought me some 19th century chinaware and wanted to ship it to be polished, and they wanted me to verify contents, I would tell them to take a long hike off a short peer.
Also I do not see what the big deal is for you to ship in a CS I, just do it, you are making this tougher than it should be.
Short answers,
PSA's shipping is what it is, and they ship their packages registered, so really they are not that bad.
CS I's are what is required and If you ship in something else and they get damaged, it is you own fault, because you knew, not that of PSA's for mishandling the cards.