How do you tell a proof buff from a business strike?

eyoung429 · June 27, 2007 12:29AM

Would love to know and have a nicely toned buff to post.

seateddime · June 27, 2007 12:32AM

I will promise you that is not a proof

eyoung429 · June 27, 2007 12:34AM

Not a problem....wasn't intended to be.

I just put the pic in there as I would love to find a proof to match it.

guitarwes · June 27, 2007 12:35AM

yeah, I can pretty much put the house on the line about this one........NOT A PROOF......since it's a '38, that gives me a pretty good idea.

ChuckC · June 27, 2007 12:46AM

Actually, I think eyoung's photo is separate from the original question, no?

Tonedbuff · June 27, 2007 1:00AM

On some (like the 1913's where you sometimes have phenominal strikes) it can be tough, which is why some proof's went into circulation by accident. However, in general, the rims have a distinct sharp inner and outer edge far moreso than you see below. Detail is of course very high in the buffalo's shoulder area, where often regular strikes are more flat and a bit mushy (again, not always true). Some proofs have that almost 'chrome bumper' look and are incredibly hard to photograph. Proof nickel can be a real bear to take a pic of...
Other than that, the best I can say is it is not always easy to identify proofs, and you still periodically hear of people identifying proofs from what were believed to be MS coins.

Cladiator · June 27, 2007 1:35AM

<< <i>How do you tell a proof buff from a business strike? >>

That's easy, the label on the slab of course!

eyoung429 · June 27, 2007 1:36AM

<groan>

Russ · June 27, 2007 2:24AM

Proofs:

Russ, NCNE

eyoung429 · June 27, 2007 2:42AM

Cool, thanks Russ!

Shamika · June 27, 2007 4:41AM

Type 1's are notoriously tough. Even the services screw up on occasion.

yellowjacket · June 27, 2007 11:45AM

Check the mintmark on that 38-D as I think something's going on with that...

Garrow

jmski52 · June 27, 2007 11:54AM

Holy Smokes, Russ! Nice Coins!

GoldenEyeNumismatics · June 27, 2007 12:09PM

<< <i>Check the mintmark on that 38-D as I think something's going on with that...

Garrow >>

Haha, as if someone is gonna try to alter a 38-D Buff

Russ · June 27, 2007 12:11PM

<< <i><< Check the mintmark on that 38-D as I think something's going on with that...

Garrow >>

Haha, as if someone is gonna try to alter a 38-D Buff >>

He may have been referring to one of the RPM's.

Russ, NCNE

Sunnywood · June 27, 2007 12:24PM

There are many nickel issues for which it is very difficult to distinguish proofs from business strikes. In these cases, proofs can be somewhat satiny; so a clean, well-struck satiny coin might be either a PR or an MS. This is a notable problem in Lib nickels, some shield nickels, and some three cent nickels. It can be quite important in those cases where the business strike mintages are quite low, and thus true MS pieces are more valuable than proofs - for example, the 1883, 1884 and 1885 3CN's. No case is more notorious than the 1880 shield nickel. Research on the die diagnostics and die pairings of the 1880 business strikes continues to this day, with John Dannreuther currently leading the charge. I have seen Lib nickels from 1885 to 1889 that were virtually impossible to classify except by the squareness of the rims. Even that method fails for 1880 shield nickels, however, as we believe that some of the business strikes may have been struck with the proof collar.

Very often one of the simplest and easiest characteristics to evaluate is strike. I find that strike can help distinguish between MS and PR nickel coins in those cases where other diagnostics fail. A comparison of Russ's pics above demonstrates this nicely for the Buff.

Best,
Sunnywood

EagleEye · June 27, 2007 12:31PM

Brings to mind a story....

After Walter Breen's book on Proofs came out in 1976, I wanted to see what a Matte Proof Buffalo looked like. There in his book was a picture of one from the ANS, 1913 T1. So I hopped on a bus and went to Spanish Harlem to see for myself. I lived in NJ, not AZ back then. The guy at the counter handed me the coin in a small cardboard box and I studied it. It was the plate coin in Breen's book and it wasn't even a Proof! It was a very well struck 1913 T1. (I learned this later on after seeing a real one).

Maybe Sheldon got the real one.

LincolnCentMan · June 27, 2007 12:33PM

How do you tell a proof buff from a business strike?

Look at the label on the PCGS holder. Just kidding. I couldnt resist.

Yours is not a proof. Proofs will have either a satiny or mirrored field. Yours is brilliant.... no question mint state.

-David

EagleEye · June 27, 2007 12:39PM

Uh, Duh.. It's D Mint!

Overdate · June 27, 2007 1:38PM

There are many nickel issues for which it is very difficult to distinguish proofs from business strikes.

Maybe they could split the difference and call them SMS.

How do you tell a proof buff from a business strike?

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