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New Camera .. Large Images.. Dial upers beware....
Bruceswar
Posts: 2,869
So I went today I finally did it. I got the Canon EOS 30D. I am loving the camera so far. It is head and heals above my Canon EOS Digital Rebel. There is nothing to say about it but good things. The Rebel is good and I would HIGHLY recommend it. All the coin photos you have seen up to this point from me have been taken with it. I knew when I got a better camera one of the main differences would be in close up shots. Anyhow Lets get down to the goods. Photo sizes are at 100 percent and no messed with other than cropping.
Here is a close up with my old Digital Rebel
Here is a close up with the 30D
Here is a close up with my old Digital Rebel
Here is a close up with the 30D
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Coin's for sale/trade.
Tom Pilitowski
US Rare Coin Investments
800-624-1870
<< <i>Great closeup! What kind of lighting/set up do you have in addition to the camera? >>
I am using 2 OTT lights. One on each side. Lighting has not changed. My camera skills may have gotten a bit better since the first shot.
<< <i>Which lens do you have? >>
This was taken with the stock lens and set of close up rings. The Stock lens in 18-55MM.
Also try a manul focus. You may be surprised to find that you can get it razor sharp manually. Auto focus is a wonderful thinkg but I can almost always focus sharper manually. I don't always do it but your eyes usually see it better than the chip in the camera.
Good job.
John
Never view my other linked pages. They aren't coin related.
<< <i>
<< <i>Great closeup! What kind of lighting/set up do you have in addition to the camera? >>
I am using 2 OTT lights. One on each side. Lighting has not changed. My camera skills may have gotten a bit better since the first shot. >>
how does that baby shoot gold coins? Any chance of you showing a pic of your ligthing set up? I saw on ebay several camera's like yours and they seem to be in the 1300-1400 range . But there's another version that has a telephoto I think that's 2100 and change. Which is the recommended path?
Thanks! Great closeup. I'd really like to learn how to take em like that.
Coin's for sale/trade.
Tom Pilitowski
US Rare Coin Investments
800-624-1870
Sometimes 2 will nail it and sometimes 22 will. Coins are tricky little devils.
John
Never view my other linked pages. They aren't coin related.
<< <i>Nice pic. Your new camera really improved the white balance. I do see some softness at the outer edges though, but that is jpeg which does most of it's compression at the outer edges of the pic. I've gotten best result with my highest resolution jpeg setting since my camera doesn't have RAW. >>
The white balance is the same. The difference is the picture taking. I have gotten alot better at coin pics since the first picture was taken... Here is one with the new camera cropped out some...
Also the first Morgan is not white either. It is the color shown. Offwhite, kinda brownish.
<< <i>Depth of field. Use a higher number on the aperture. I shoot most of my stuff over 7.
Sometimes 2 will nail it and sometimes 22 will. Coins are tricky little devils.
John >>
Dang, every camera doesn't have this.
Coin's for sale/trade.
Tom Pilitowski
US Rare Coin Investments
800-624-1870
relief coin, that there is some softness in either the background or high points.
When I close down the Iris, the depth of field is such that background and
high points are sharp.
<< <i>
<< <i>Which lens do you have? >>
This was taken with the stock lens and set of close up rings. The Stock lens in 18-55MM. >>
Nice pictures, but you can see a shortcoming of using the stock lens for macro if you look at the letters PLU and the upper parts of the rim where there is a lot of contrast. You are losing a little edge sharpness in the form of color fringing. The outer parts of these highlights are outlined in blue and the inner parts in orange. Mind you, I'm really picking nits here, but I wanted to point out that's one of the things you'll not see with a dedicated macro lens. You can minimize this by keeping the subject away from the edge of the picture. When starting with 10 MP and posting to the web, you have a few edge pixels to spare.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars
<< <i>
<< <i>
<< <i>Which lens do you have? >>
This was taken with the stock lens and set of close up rings. The Stock lens in 18-55MM. >>
Nice pictures, but you can see a shortcoming of using the stock lens for macro if you look at the letters PLU and the upper parts of the rim where there is a lot of contrast. You are losing a little edge sharpness in the form of color fringing. The outer parts of these highlights are outlined in blue and the inner parts in orange. Mind you, I'm really picking nits here, but I wanted to point out that's one of the things you'll not see with a dedicated macro lens. You can minimize this by keeping the subject away from the edge of the picture. When starting with 10 MP and posting to the web, you have a few edge pixels to spare. >>
I have a macro lens. I wil; pull it out later and give it a try.
"Senorita HepKitty"
"I want a real cool Kitty from Hepcat City, to stay in step with me" - Bill Carter
<< <i>
<< <i>Depth of field. Use a higher number on the aperture. I shoot most of my stuff over 7. Sometimes 2 will nail it and sometimes 22 will. Coins are tricky little devils. John >>
Dang, every camera doesn't have this. >>
Even if your camara doesn't have an apature setting, you can manipulate it by increasing the exposure and allowing the camara to increase the F-stop. If your camara doesn't have an exposure setting that you can set, get another camara.
<< <i>I have noticed in some of my pics that when the aperture is wide open on a high
relief coin, that there is some softness in either the background or high points.
When I close down the Iris, the depth of field is such that background and
high points are sharp. >>
It's the same principle as using the wide open lens to take an outdoor portrait and focus on the person and the leaves or whatever in the background will be slightly out of focus and soften them. Close down the lens and you can take someone's portrait in front of a mountain miles away and have them both in focus. Knowing the focus range of the f-stop setting is the purpose of the white lines on the ring of the lens with the aperature numbers.
Didn't wanna get me no trade
Never want to be like papa
Working for the boss every night and day
--"Happy", by the Rolling Stones (1972)
<< <i>The first is a little blurry, but the second is really nice! >>
The first one is not even close the 2nd one. I was just mainly showing the size.
Semper ubi sub ubi
Semper ubi sub ubi