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Removing cloudiness from a proof coin.

I am looking at a lot of 40% silver proofs (the 76 3 pc, and the Brown box Ikes) and there is a lot of cloudiness on most of these, and some spots.

Can this be rectified?

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    Rob85635Rob85635 Posts: 1,230 ✭✭✭
    Wait and maybe Russ will respond. He is, from what I have learned, THE expert on restoration of proof coins. If not Russ, someone will step up with advice.
    Rob the Newbie
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    jhusmanjhusman Posts: 1,082
    One would hope. Perhaps I need to call some names to get attention...
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    DieClashDieClash Posts: 3,688 ✭✭✭


    << <i>One would hope. Perhaps I need to call some names to get attention... >>



    image
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    jhusmanjhusman Posts: 1,082
    No need for the popcorn. Just making a joke.
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    DieClashDieClash Posts: 3,688 ✭✭✭
    I figured this was the Trailer. I just arrived early is all! image
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    ZoinsZoins Posts: 34,456 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Check out this thread. It should answer most of your questions.
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    DieClashDieClash Posts: 3,688 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Check out this thread. It should answer most of your questions. >>



    It's an informative thread Zoins. Russ uses eZest. But I believe someone cautions to "practice" on less valuable coins first. It seems to me that dipping a Proof to get rid of haze is probably alot different than dipping Uncs. But maybe not. image I've never dipped a coin. But I do have the same problem with haze on Proofs that the OP has. So how many must I ruin before I've acquired the necessary skill and experience to do it right?

    Some say "just don't dip". I dunno. I'd like to get rid of that unappealing haze, but I don't want to ruin the coin in the process of dipping it. image
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    ZoinsZoins Posts: 34,456 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>So how many must I ruin before I've acquired the necessary skill and experience to do it right? >>

    It probably depends partly on how good and lucky you are.

    Either that or you can pay someone to do it for you like NCS or maybe Russ.

    If you have a lot of coins, it might be worthwhile to learn how to do it yourself. If not, you can just send them out to NCS.
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    I put my coins in a container with MS70, let them sit for a while, then rinse them and repeat if necessary. I was afraid of rubbing the coins with MS70 due to potential hairlines, so instead I opted to just let it sit and talk longer. It works fine for me, it just takes a while longer and uses more MS70. Afterwards I rinse the coin with distilled water, then isopropyl alcohol, and finally rinse with distilled water again. Then I usually dry them with a blow dryer on low heat.
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    DieClashDieClash Posts: 3,688 ✭✭✭
    gamr0n, got any before and after pics?
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    I thought I had some, but I they are all on the computer at home. All I have here at school are some after photos of coins. It usually works well with haze, but it does not work well with milk spots.
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    I also use the MS70 option for hazy modern proofs.

    David
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    carlcarl Posts: 2,054
    I've had some proofs with a small amount of haze starting. I figured why not try something, anything. So I took a que tip with an abundant amount of cotton, soaked it in plain old household alcohol, touched slightly and the haze vanished. I then rinsed with distilled water and used a hair dryer. Haze all gone, still gone.
    Also, lately been experimenting with Acetone and found if you use from that stuff from an old can it may have accumulated some of the inside of the can and make more of a haze than what you have.
    Carl
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    DieClashDieClash Posts: 3,688 ✭✭✭


    << <i>I've had some proofs with a small amount of haze starting. I figured why not try something, anything. So I took a que tip with an abundant amount of cotton, soaked it in plain old household alcohol, touched slightly and the haze vanished. I then rinsed with distilled water and used a hair dryer. Haze all gone, still gone.
    Also, lately been experimenting with Acetone and found if you use from that stuff from an old can it may have accumulated some of the inside of the can and make more of a haze than what you have. >>



    Sounds like a viable, harmless solution to the haze problem. I've never heard of using alcohol. I've always been under the impression that you need an acid based solution like MS70/.eZest.

    Do you use alcohol on clad Proof conage? And do you have any before/after pics for compoarison?

    Edited: Disregard the first ?. It's obvious from your post that you've used it on Proofs. Any pics?!
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    CoxeCoxe Posts: 11,139
    I know those brown box Ikes are horrible with that haze. Hate to break them out as I like them in the original containers but what alternative is there?
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