Is 1934-D the worst struck Buffalo Nickel??

BuffaloIronTail · February 26, 2007 11:06AM

Those of us who have an avocation for the Buffalo series are well aware of who the players are in the dubious derby of "which is the worst struck Buff".

On general terms............there are a LOT of Buffs struck worse..........way worse.........than 34-D.

Among those one can always locate some decent, better, acceptable struck specimens.

Not so with 34-D!

It is such a very critical coin to the series. People who collect just the "short set" from 1934 to 1938 need it. And so does everybody else.

All the coins I've seen fall short in some category. 34-D, when not plagued with the flat head on the Buff comes to your door knocking with a very weakly struck central obverse, and a pathetically renedered LIBERTY.

The reverses on some of the coins can really knock you out! Then turn the coin over and find a very pathetic looking Indian with a flat braid and central hair, as well as the top feather looking like a "lump". Die cracks and other negative features abound, I have one at 64 with a crack all the way through the Indian that ends up at the lower feather!

Shame on Denver for this issue!

Far as I'm concerned, this issue should also be included in the Buffalo "Hall of Shame".

O.K. I'm finished ranting.

What do you think? I've seen some pics of some of the holdered 65's and 66's, and they STILL don't impress me.

Pete

koynekwest · February 26, 2007 11:27AM

I have found that the 1918-S is the worst when actual STRIKE deficiency is considered. Other dates show a lack of detail more often due to worn dies. The '34-D shows a combination of these two problems and is one of the worst in the series.

buffnut · February 26, 2007 12:17PM

I have yet to see a 34D that has been hammered. Of course that goes for the 29, 31S, 18S, 20S, 23S, 25S, 28D, and 29D too. I'm not saying that they aren't out there somewhere, but are very rare with a full strike.

I've been on a hunt for a well struck 34D in MS64 for a long time. I've come across a small handful, but they went for nearly 65 money. Most of the 65s I do see are less than appealing in the strike area. A tough coin indeed, and one worth hanging on to if you happen across a nice strike.

Shamika · February 26, 2007 2:07PM

Okay guys, I defy you to show me a better struck 34-D than the one below (sorry I don't have better images). The central reverse is oddly flat across the Buffalo's shoulder, but the rest of the coin is remarkable. The central obverse detail is incredible!

koynekwest · February 26, 2007 10:27PM

Chris-

That's the best '34-D I've ever seen.

gyocomgd · February 26, 2007 11:22PM

My experience is nowhere near that of Pete, but there are a number of other dates that join 1934-D in the "race to the bottom," and which compete very favorably. For the heck of it, I'll forego the D-mint coin and concentrate on the S mints. Right now I'm having a devil of a time finding a 1923-S and 1925-S that are close to acceptable; it seems that from mid-BU grade and upward it is harder to find well-struck examples (and more attractive coins in general) of those dates than with 34-D. My 34-D in MS64 is much better struck than most of the 23-S and 25-S in MS65, and those are out of my price range.

Talking strictly about the obverse, 1919-S proved very difficult and I've very few that didn't have serious deficiencies on the peripheries--no super-strong LIBERTY. Also, 1918-S is no prize.

Chris, that 34-D you show is absolutely a condition rarity, no? The way the hair creases go all the way to the knot, that is just a total fluke. I haven't seen one come even close to that.

Shamika · February 27, 2007 12:09AM

<< Chris- That's the best '34-D I've ever seen. >>

Now that's saying alot!

<< Chris, that 34-D you show is absolutely a condition rarity, no? The way the hair creases go all the way to the knot, that is just a total fluke. I haven't seen one come even close to that. >>

The detail above the knot is extraordinary. So much so that I often wonder if something came between the reverse die and the planchet which would add further pressure to the central obverse and explain the lack of detail in the central reverse.

Many of the peripheral details are also exceptionally strong such as LIBERTY, the feather tips, and the Buffalo's head. The Buffalo's tail is like nothing I've ever seen on ANY date.

kranky · February 27, 2007 12:11AM

Marked for later.

Shamika · February 27, 2007 12:16AM

<< Right now I'm having a devil of a time finding a 1923-S and 1925-S that are close to acceptable; >>

Guy - Does this 23-S fit the bill?

buffnut · February 27, 2007 12:22AM

I don't see a mintmark on that 34D. I think Chris is trying to pass off a 34 on us

gyocomgd · February 27, 2007 12:24AM

That 1923-S....of 6,142,000 made, that coin has to be in the upper .999 percentile. Just ridiculous.
I have two 34-Ds, one raw, one certified. The central obverse is better than average on both, which only points up what BuffaloIronTail was saying.

Shamika · February 27, 2007 1:24AM

<< I don't see a mintmark on that 34D. I think Chris is trying to pass off a 34 on us.

>>

No, it's there. But surprisingly, it's not struck as well as other portions of the coin.

<< That 1923-S....of 6,142,000 made, that coin has to be in the upper .999 percentile. Just ridiculous. >>

Trust me, I had to pay an equally ridiculous price for it.

yellowjacket · February 27, 2007 1:57AM

What about the 19-S and 26-D? Just add them to the long list.

BTW, You guys have some hammered Buffs! I like that crusty 34-D. And that 23-S has to be one of the best I've ever seen!

Garrow

Shamika · February 27, 2007 2:47AM

<< What about the 19-S and 26-D? Just add them to the long list. >>

Geez, how could we forget the infamous 26-D? This is the first coin that comes to my mind when discussing crappy strikes.

cape · February 27, 2007 4:57AM

this is to funny, i sent a old green holder 34d today for regrade and yes i have to agree this date is hard to find a keeper coin. i wont let the cat out of the bag but my 34d that i sent in i know is really hammered. when i get it back ill post pictures and a guess the grade. guy i really like your 1st 34d, but it needs to be conserved. and chris i really like your 23s . stay tuned as for dick from greattoning imaged my new 19s and a 36s/s for viewing and guess the grade. let me know what you all think.

gremlin13 · November 20, 2022 8:56AM

Here's a killer. Graded in the first years of ANACS. This will reholder at least two points higher. Very mark-free, with a couple tics on the beef's front leg. The mark on the Indian's check is on the plastic. Full split tail, full head and horn. Struck decently at the centers. Pastel rainbow toned. Easily the best of my four 64s, and better than any other I've seen in hand.

rec78 · November 20, 2022 10:53AM

This thread is over 15 years old, but still relevant. That's the best one that I have seen Gremlin13.

JimTyler · November 20, 2022 1:05PM

Bit optimistic

BUFFNIXX · November 22, 2022 8:02AM

Actually I would go with the 1926d.
I have seen some of these that were real bow wows!

TPRC · November 22, 2022 8:14AM

Interesting post. I've never considered the 34-d to even be in the top 10 of worst struck!

Walkerguy21D · November 22, 2022 9:39AM

Wow, what a blast from the past, originally posted shortly before I joined. Too bad many of the posters are no longer on the forum!

I’m in the 26D camp as well, but there are posts from some buffalo nickel gods in here, so their words should be heeded.

coinkat · November 22, 2022 9:50AM

1925-D and 26-D… but I am not the expert and this opinion is predicated on what I have seen and experienced

BuffaloIronTail · November 22, 2022 10:30AM

1934-D isn't really the worst struck Buffalo Nickel in the series. It's a stopper in the quest for a MS-65 short set. (!934-1938).

1934-D as well as 1935-D are difficult to find in Gem. One would think after a 4 year drought in nickel production that Denver would have had their act together.

I cant believe this post goes back to 2007.

No matter how old, my original comments still ring true (at least to me).

Pete

leothelyon · November 22, 2022 4:31PM

Here's what I don't see on most dates. But are there complete strikes for every date out there in private collections perhaps. There was not one single coin in CoinFacts 1934-D with such detail on the tie, Just like many early dates of the Jefferson nickel especially from 1946 to 1970, most collectors have to settle for less in a full strike, I have proven otherwise for many dates In the Jefferson nickel series that they do indeed exist. The 1953-S for example is far rarer with its 98% complete strike than anything certified with FS.

Leo

erwindoc · November 22, 2022 5:51PM

Mine is pretty flat, but the colors and eye appeal make up for the mushy strike! MS64* with CAC

BuffaloIronTail · November 22, 2022 6:56PM

@leothelyon said:
Here's what I don't see on most dates. But are there complete strikes for every date out there in private collections perhaps. There was not one single coin in CoinFacts 1934-D with such detail on the tie, Just like many early dates of the Jefferson nickel especially from 1946 to 1970, most collectors have to settle for less in a full strike, I have proven otherwise for many dates In the Jefferson nickel series that they do indeed exist. The 1953-S for example is far rarer with its 98% complete strike than anything certified with FS.

Leo

You won't find that braid detail on any other date in the series, although your point is well taken.

1921 Nickels are one year type coins. They have serifs on the ones in the date, and that super detailed knot.

My guess is that the Mint had plenty of time to play with the engraving, resulting in that super detail. Even dateless coins can be identified by the sharp rendered knot.

1921 coins are special to me, and are among my most favorite Buffs.

Pete

Is 1934-D the worst struck Buffalo Nickel??

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