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For post 1964 circulating coinage, what criteria is used by you to determine if they should be slabb

SanctionIISanctionII Posts: 12,941 ✭✭✭✭✭
Value?

Rarity?

Key Date or Variety?

Designation (i.e. FS nickels)?

Other reasons?

Your thoughts please.

Comments

  • Aegis3Aegis3 Posts: 2,935 ✭✭✭
    I ask myself this question:

    Do I want to give my money to a slabbing company for no reason?

    (The same question also applies for classic coins also.)
    --

    Ed. S.

    (EJS)
  • GandyjaiGandyjai Posts: 1,380 ✭✭
    I'm mostly an Ike kind of guy....and this is what I use:

    1. Any error.

    2. Any Clad Ike that looks to be 65 or higher....(64 or higher for 71-P & 72-P).

    3. Any Silver Ike that looks like it has a shot at 68....(66 or higher for 71-S).

    4. I don't do proof Ikes unless they have cool NT...(a lot of 74-S Silvers fall in this category).

    5. Any outstanding album-toned or roll toned clads.

    6. Any nice Double or Triple Talon Head clashed Dies.

    7. Any 72-P Type 2.

    All of those are pretty much worth slabbing.

    Brian

    I LOVE image TALON HEAD, PEG LEG & ERROR IKE DOLLARS! image
  • DHeathDHeath Posts: 8,472 ✭✭✭
    If I think the coin is extraordinary, and I don't plan to keep it, it goes in. Coins can be extraordinary for lots of reasons.
    Developing theory is what we are meant to do as academic researchers
    and it sets us apart from practitioners and consultants. Gregor

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