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Calling on the submission experts - PCGS Collectors Club Services and Fees

I’ve read the FAQs but still have some questions I’m sure many here can answer eloquently.

Regarding submission fees and stating a coin’s maximum value, what is the point of and the relevancy of the maximum value/coin when submitting for grading? It seems to be for shipping insurance purposes but, since a coin’s value is relative to its grade, how can you assign a value to the coin if you don’t know for sure its grade yet?

For example, the “regular” service at $30 lists a maximum value/coin at $3000 and the “economy (non-gold)” service at $18 lists a maximum value/coin at $300. Why pay thirty bucks if you can pay eighteen?

Let me put it this way: the value of a coin can go up considerably if its grade goes up even only one point. So lets say you submit a coin under the “economy” service whose value is under $300 at a certain grade, but then that coin receives a grade higher than you expected and now its value is well over $300. Now what? Is it insured for only $300? What happens if the coin is lost? Does PCGS bump the maximum value/coin if it receives a higher grade thus making its value above $300? Are you then charged the “regular” service fee instead of the “economy” fee?

Then there is the “rarities” and “ultra rarities” service; how do you know? What category does a half-cent or key half-dime fall into? Is there a list somewhere? How about a ’09 SVDB? Isn’t that a “rarity”? Can you submit one under the “regular” service? Wouldn’t these ’06 platinum coins be considered “ultra rarities”? What category would they fall into?

Submitting a 20th anniversary 3-coin set I assume costs three times the grading fees? There have been many here who have done that – what were the category and total fees for submitting these sets for grading? PCGS FAQs say you don’t get the boxes back but I understand for an additional fee you actually can. How do you go about that? Is there a box on the submission form you may check?

If one was going to submit more than 6 coins in one year, then signing up for the platinum club membership is the only way to go considering you get a voucher for 8 free submissions, right? Is there a category limit on that?

Lastly, if you submit 8 coins it sounds like you have to pay for 8 different shipping fees and they’ll come back to you in 8 different shipments. WHY!? Talk about a rip. Considering all these fees why in the world does anyone submit nickels and cents that are obviously MS64, 65ish?
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    with your platinum membership 8 coin voucher all 8 coins must be submitted at the same time,therefore one shipping fee. still a good deal!
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    << <i>with your platinum membership 8 coin voucher all 8 coins must be submitted at the same time,... >>



    Yeah, I got that one. If you don't use them all in one shot you lose them.
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    robertprrobertpr Posts: 6,862 ✭✭✭
    You're making a mountain out of a molehill on the valuation thing. Estimate the grade of the coin, and value it relative to what you estimated the value to be. The max values on the submissions are not a hard line number that will hold back the grade of your coins, but if you abuse it, PCGS will probably make you pay the higher fees. The key is, don't abuse it.
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    GoldbullyGoldbully Posts: 18,504 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>You're making a mountain out of a molehill on the valuation thing. Estimate the grade of the coin, and value it relative to what you estimated the value to be. The max values on the submissions are not a hard line number that will hold back the grade of your coins, but if you abuse it, PCGS will probably make you pay the higher fees. The key is, don't abuse it. >>




    Very cogent point!!!!image
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    << <i>You're making a mountain out of a molehill >>



    Yeah I know. I ask a lot of questions and am anal too. At least that's what they tell me. image
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    There are still more question there if anyone cares to answer.
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    The reason you put a value of the coin is for insurance purposes. For a quick example a $50 reverse proof is worth much more than the spot. If PCGS burns to the ground with you coin there for grading you would not want a spot value listed as your estimate of value. Same idea goes for if it is lost while shippping. Insurance companies would never pay you more than what your written estimate stated. Roll the dice if you want but understand ramafications of the small risk you are taking.
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    robertprrobertpr Posts: 6,862 ✭✭✭
    Then there is the “rarities” and “ultra rarities” service; how do you know? What category does a half-cent or key half-dime fall into? Is there a list somewhere? How about a ’09 SVDB? Isn’t that a “rarity”? Can you submit one under the “regular” service? Wouldn’t these ’06 platinum coins be considered “ultra rarities”? What category would they fall into?

    You won't need to worry about these tiers unless you're rich. If you own anything that needs to be transported by Brinks, let us know and I'll tell you more. image
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    << <i>Then there is the “rarities” and “ultra rarities” service; how do you know? What category does a half-cent or key half-dime fall into? Is there a list somewhere? How about a ’09 SVDB? Isn’t that a “rarity”? Can you submit one under the “regular” service? Wouldn’t these ’06 platinum coins be considered “ultra rarities”? What category would they fall into?

    You won't need to worry about these tiers unless you're rich. If you own anything that needs to be transported by Brinks, let us know and I'll tell you more. image >>



    I'm just trying to get a handle on what a "rarity" is. A 1914-D or plain '22 is not considered a rarity?
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    aficionadoaficionado Posts: 2,309 ✭✭✭

    I went with the regular membership. $49. That leaves me $150 of submissions to do what I want. I can do 3 Express, or 5 regulars and almost 10 submissions with the Economy or Modern, which breaks even on the fees (compared to platinum).

    I don't submit that much and if I don't submit anything, I'm not out $150.


    As for saving a few bucks by cutting insurance, once you get bitten by that bug, you'll never do it again.


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    I'm just trying to understand the whole process completely, and not pinch a few bucks, but be down with the protocol.
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    Wolf359Wolf359 Posts: 7,666 ✭✭✭
    Assume the coin grades at AU50, then use the value listed in the PCGS Price Guide at AU. It will cover you pretty well for insurance. I would agree, that intentionally over-inflating the coin's value is not a good thing. It always seemed to me that ANACS graders would peek at my value column when grading, and when I was accurate or slightly undervalued a no-problem coin I got a nice grade, while when I was ridiculous, I got slammed.

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    dbldie55dbldie55 Posts: 7,750 ✭✭✭✭✭
    My dealer puts one number in and draws a line down so all coins are listed with the same value. Has been doing it for years. May be more specific if it is something special.
    Collector and Researcher of Liberty Head Nickels. ANA LM-6053

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