54-P Washington End Roll Toned


This is my Dad's coin, but he asked me to image it for him.

The above image of the obverse is more for color, while the below image of the obverse is more for lustre.

The coin has a fairly decent strike and okay lustre, too. The eagle's tail feathers are nice and visible. I would grade this coin at a 65.
Just thought I would share.

-Amanda

I'm a YN working on a type set!
My Buffalo Nickel Website Home of the Quirky Buffaloes Collection!
Proud member of the CUFYNA
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Comments
Love the color on that one.
Might make 66 in my eye.
<< <i>Is that a die crack in the top of Goerge's head or just a toning line?
Might make 66 in my eye. >>
There is one on George's head, one on the reverse from RIBUS to the Eagle's left wing and one on the eagle's right wing.
I love die cracks!
Thanks guys.
-Amanda
I'm a YN working on a type set!
My Buffalo Nickel Website Home of the Quirky Buffaloes Collection!
Proud member of the CUFYNA
Apropos of the coin posse/aka caca: "The longer he spoke of his honor, the tighter I held to my purse."
I would think that the strike and the lustre, while good but not great, would keep it a 65. Or were you bumping for the color? The coin is remarkably free of hits, but I think it's a really nice 65.
Care to explain further?
Thanks.
-Amanda
I'm a YN working on a type set!
My Buffalo Nickel Website Home of the Quirky Buffaloes Collection!
Proud member of the CUFYNA
The toning looks really attractive on this one. I see a 65 max on this one. Could go 64 due to the strike, but would sell for 65+ money anyway, so the exact number on a piece like this is irrelevant.
Nice coin.
<< <i>Care to explain further? >>
Apropos of the coin posse/aka caca: "The longer he spoke of his honor, the tighter I held to my purse."
<< <i>
<< <i>Care to explain further? >>
As to why you called it a 66.
Basically, what leads to a 66 over a 65? Or am I splitting hairs here?
-Amanda
I'm a YN working on a type set!
My Buffalo Nickel Website Home of the Quirky Buffaloes Collection!
Proud member of the CUFYNA
I have submitted hundreds of mint set Washingtons to PCGS ONLY over many years. Why are you being confrontational? I was being complimentary.
<< <i>Care to explain further? >>
Care to be more polite? I didn't appreciate your tone, young lady, it was disrespectful.
Color does not influence PCGS grades. If you believe that, you are wrong, it is a myth. The lack of any hits makes this a 66. Only you know what the luster looks like in hand.
Apropos of the coin posse/aka caca: "The longer he spoke of his honor, the tighter I held to my purse."
Toned Coins for sale @ tonedcointrader.com
I didn't mean to sound rude.
I actually wasn't addressing the original question to anybody in particular, just the folks who said 66. There were several, so I just left the question open-ended.
I am interested in learning how to grade more accurately, and what the difference between a 65 and a 66 might be.
I try to be polite, and I feel really badly when I seem rude. Please accept my apologies.
-Amanda
I'm a YN working on a type set!
My Buffalo Nickel Website Home of the Quirky Buffaloes Collection!
Proud member of the CUFYNA
Description
PO-1 Identifiable date and type
FR-2 Mostly worn, though some detail is visible
AG-3 Worn rims but most lettering is readable though worn
G-4 Slightly worn rims, flat detail, peripheral lettering nearly full
G-6 Rims complete with flat detail, peripheral lettering full
VG-8 Design worn with slight detail
VG-10 Design worn with slight detail, slightly clearer
F-12 Some deeply recessed areas with detail, all lettering sharp
F-15 Slightly more detail in the recessed areas, all lettering sharp
VF-20 Some definition of detail, all lettering full and sharp
VF-25 Slightly more definition in the detail and lettering
VF-30 Almost complete detail with flat areas
VF-35 Detail is complete but worn with high points flat
EF-40 Detail is complete with most high points slightly flat
EF-45 Detail is complete with some high points flat
AU-50 Full detail with friction over most of the surface, slight flatness on high points
AU-53 Full detail with friction over 1/2 or more of surface, very slight flatness on high points
AU-55 Full detail with friction on less than 1/2 surface, mainly on high points
AU-58 Full detail with only slight friction on the high points
MS/PR-60 No wear. May have many heavy marks/hairlines, strike may not be full
MS/PR-61 No wear. Multiple heavy marks/hairlines, strike may not be full
MS/PR-62 No wear. Slightly less marks/hairlines, strike may not be full
MS/PR-63 Moderate number/size marks/hairlines, strike may not be full
MS/PR-64 Few marks/hairlines or a couple of severe ones, strike should be average or above
MS/PR-65 Minor marks/hairlines though none in focal areas, above average strike
MS/PR-66 Few minor marks/hairlines not in focal areas, good strike
MS/PR-67 Virtually as struck with minor imperfections, very well struck
MS/PR-68 Virtually as struck with slight imperfections, slightest weakness of strike allowed
MS/PR-69 Virtually as struck with minuscule imperfections, near full strike necessary
MS/PR-70 As struck, with full strike
GV Government issue price
Apropos of the coin posse/aka caca: "The longer he spoke of his honor, the tighter I held to my purse."
In honor of the memory of Cpl. Michael E. Thompson
And I assure you, color does affect grade! Sounds like it might make an interesting "poll" question.
and they're cold.
I don't want nobody to shoot me in the foxhole."
Mary
Best Franklin Website
All of sudden you have become a spokes person for PCGS because of your submission record and you are basing your opinion solely on that basis alone. That and the number of hit’s a coin has received will be the determining factor of the net grade. I do not buy into this philosophy and I think you are planting the wrong seeds to a budding Numismatist…hence the rebuttal.
Maybe for modern clad coins or bullion coins the number of hits/no hits maybe in whole or part of the determining factor, but it is not the sole determining factor for coins made prior to 1964. Those coins made out of 90% silver or the older coppers, all the way back to Dr. William Sheldon‘s time, author of the book Penny Whimsy, knew about the appeal of natural toning on his early cents. Pre-1964 coins such as Roosevelt Dimes and Washington Quarters typically will acquire very nice toning as we all have seen and experienced.
In contrast to “blast white“, an attractively toned coin may actually grade a bit higher than it would have otherwise, since nice toning is now viewed in the market place as an asset.
The resulting patina on a older coin adds a dimension of aesthetic and historic value lacking in a coin that is brilliant. It is this feature of toning that often adds a distinctive quality to coins, permitting them to rise above their peers, their peers having the look of that natural just out of the mint color. Unattractive tarnish should not be considered as a “bump” just because the surface of the coin displays toning. There is a world of difference between an attractive toned coin and one that is just tarnished
Over the years, the number of originally toned coins have dwindled, as a couple generations of collectors have been misled into believing that "brighter is always better." That and we as collectors no longer use the old methods of storage that created those beautifully toned coins.
Why do you think the “Coin Doctors” have been so busy as of late? Also, many are unable to distinguish original toning from so-called artificial toning, and that induces both suspicion and fear. The experts at the various grading services usually know the difference between a naturally toned, original coin and one that has been altered in any way.
*Grading services recognize the appeal of both brilliant and toned coins, and each piece is evaluated on its merit, without prejudice for or against toning. As values rise and the coin market becomes ever more sophisticated, originality will prove to be as important as luster in determining a coin's value.
Of course you are always welcome to your opinion on this matter, I just chose to disagree with your analysis on this topic.
~Woody~
*quote from Mark Salzberg (edit)
"Keep your malarkey filter in good operating order" -Walter Breen
It is generally acknowledged that grading is a balance of a coins strike, luster, surface preservation (marks), and eye appeal.
And of course, attractive toning can have a very real effect on eye appeal.
And I also agree that that was a very unwarranted display of troll-paranoia on Pharmers part.
and they're cold.
I don't want nobody to shoot me in the foxhole."
Mary
Best Franklin Website
Also, thanks for the suppourt, but please let's not turn this into a big issue, I probably should have been more polite.
My thing is though, I like to know why people say certain grades. I'm sure people have a thought process when they grade coins (insert caveat about grading from pictures here) but when this thought process is not explained, it's really just a number. At least it is to me.
And because I am no good at reading minds (
Plus, it can provide for more meaningful discussion, which is the part of this forum I like best.
-Amanda
I'm a YN working on a type set!
My Buffalo Nickel Website Home of the Quirky Buffaloes Collection!
Proud member of the CUFYNA
As for PCGS, I've sent in many Washingtons and found that PCGS is very conservative grading this issue. You may be right about 65 but it could well 66. Your's is as good of an opinion as anyone's.
Yellowjacket
Doug