FB Mercury dime

fastrudy · November 21, 2006 10:00AM

Can smoebody post a pic of the difference between a FB merc and a non-FB merc?

Thanks

fcloud · November 21, 2006 10:11AM

Here is a full band. A coin without a full strike will lack the horizontal bands being fully split.

fcloud · November 21, 2006 10:16AM

I hope this one worked. This is a full band coin.

fcloud · November 21, 2006 10:20AM

This one misses. As you can see the band is not full.

And this last one is a no band coin.

JoeLewis · November 21, 2006 10:53AM

Does having Full Bands mean that the entire coin was struck well, or could it just mean that particular area has that kind of definition, but maybe not the rest of the coin?

coinguy1 · November 21, 2006 11:02AM

<< Does having Full Bands mean that the entire coin was struck well, or could it just mean that particular area has that kind of definition, but maybe not the rest of the coin? >>

Fully separated horizontal bands at the center of the fasces (a bundle of rods, often accompanied by an axe) is all that is required for the "Full Bands" designation. There are many coins which have "Full Bands" but display striking weakness at other areas. In a number of cases, non Full Band examples can be (otherwise) better struck than Full Band pieces.

Mark · November 21, 2006 11:06AM

Joe Lewis:

I think you bring up a controversial issue. To qualify as FB, only the horizontal bars need to be separated. Generally, though not always, such a coin is well struck everywhere. But there are well-struck coins that miss the FB separation and also FB coins that are otherwise weakly struck. So some collectors are not especially in favor of the FB designation. They would rather have either a "fully struck" designation that takes account of the complete coin or no designation at all. Some collectors go so far as to assert that the FB designation is largely a marketing tool by TPG companies.

roadrunner · November 21, 2006 11:07AM

Ironically, a large % of coins labeled FB are anything but that. The requirement is to "look like FB" when viewed at certain angles.
The services often let a coin with a very thin slit of separation pass for FB. What you should want to own is a split band with depth and wide, even separation from end to end.

roadrunner

RYK · November 21, 2006 11:08AM

Of the examples provided, it looks like the "no bands" coin has a better obverse strike than the FB coins.

MikeInFL · November 21, 2006 11:11AM

<< 

<< Does having Full Bands mean that the entire coin was struck well, or could it just mean that particular area has that kind of definition, but maybe not the rest of the coin? >>

Fully separated horizontal bands at the center of the fasces (a bundle of rods, often accompanied by an axe) is all that is required for the "Full Bands" designation. There are many coins which have "Full Bands" but display striking weakness at other areas. In a number of cases, non Full Band examples can be (otherwise) better struck than Full Band pieces. >>

To illustrate Mark's point, compare the strikes of the following two FB coins:

ILikeMercs · November 21, 2006 11:14AM

full bands- bread loaves

full bands

not full bands

fcloud · November 21, 2006 11:21AM

<< The services often let a coin with a very thin slit of separation pass for FB. What you should want to own is a split band with depth and wide, even separation from end to end. >>

If there is a point of letting thin splits go FB by the services, they are probably dates where the price is about the same for a coin with or without. They are really tough on some dates. 1945, 1939, and 1939-S are tough dates. They are probably picky on some other dates, too. Also keep in mind the services make mistakes. I have a 1916-S AU55 when you punch in the number for cert verification it comes up AU55FB--there is no such thing. The coins need to bu unc to get the attribute. I've been told there are some AU58FB 1945 dimes, but I tend to think these may not really be full band coins.

ILikeMercs · November 21, 2006 11:22AM

<< 

<< The services often let a coin with a very thin slit of separation pass for FB. What you should want to own is a split band with depth and wide, even separation from end to end. >>

If there is a point of letting thin splits go FB by the services, they are probably dates where the price is about the same for a coin with or without. They are really tough on some dates. 1945, 1939, and 1939-S are tough dates. They are probably picky on some other dates, too. Also keep in mind the services make mistakes. I have a 1916-S AU55 when you punch in the number for cert verification it comes up AU55FB--there is no such thing. The coins need to bu unc to get the attribute. I've been told there are some AU58FB 1945 dimes, but I tend to think these may not really be full band coins. >>

lowest I've seen with FB designation

fcloud · November 21, 2006 11:31AM

Here is what you get with cert number 21076611. This is not a full band coin, but simply an error made by someone at PCGS. If you look in the pop reports you can find coins as low as they go in the FB categories. Just because the holder says full band, doesn't mean it is. You need to check those coins. If you have one they simply say it is a mechanical error and will not down grade on those coins.

COIN INFORMATION
Cert Verification #: 21076611
Date, mintmark: 1916-S
Denomination: 10C
Variety: Mercury
Pedigree:
Country: The United States of America
Grade: AU55FB

FB Mercury dime

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