For those of you who submit coins to both PCGS and NGC,

which types of coins do you submit to which TPG company?
"It's far easier to fight for principles, than to live up to them." Adlai Stevenson
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<< <i>which types of coins do you submit to which TPG company? >>
I Submit MAINLY Morgans, Peace, and Frankies, and you?
TorinoCobra71
To which TPG company is the question.
Coins that would ALWAYS go to PCGS are: DMPL Morgans, Moderns
Russ, NCNE
<< <i>I submit coins that make the grade to PCGS, and coins that don't make the grade to NGC >>
That is exactly what I was thinking.
The only thing I send to NGC first are varieties that PCGS doesn't recognize. But most board members don't care about varieties.
“In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock." - Thomas Jefferson
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<< <i>Hey Cladiator, how did you arrive at that conclusion. I'd really like to know because I was planning on submitting a coin to PGCS. Thanks. >>
It's been my experience that PCGS offers very little customer service when it comes to the individual collector submitting coins. Add to that their comparitively high prices. Add to that the exponentially longer turn around times. Add to that the fact that they've made very easily avoidable mistakes on more than one of my submissions. Honestly the one and only reason in the recent past that I've used PCGS was their holder. I like very much their holder. The NGC holder is 100% crap in my opinion. The old ANACS holder was not much better. Now with the new generation of holder from ANACS I'm very impressed with both it's looks and functionality. Factor in shorter turn around times and cheaper submission prices and the decision is easy.
Hopefully that doesn't get me bammed. I'm just explaining my personal opinion based on my personal experiences. I'm sure there are many folks on the boards that have had wonderfull experiences with PCGS.
Edited to add: It's important to realize though that with most types of coins you will have a higher re-sale value (when dealing with the general collecting public) when they are in PCGS slabs as opposed to being in NGC or ANACS slabs. If anyone decides not to use PCGS they should realize this and weigh how important re-sale to the general collecting public is to them.
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Some coins Ill send to ANACS becuase the price realized doesnt make that much difference such as an 1909-s Indian I just submitted to ANACS. Its a fine, and I didnt have 4 other coins to make a 5 coin min at PCGS, and not worth 50 bucks for a single submission.
<< <i>toned buff, from my experience if you go to sell buff nickels in ngc holders even if properly graded get ready to realize 20% less value. in my oppinion you can cherrypick nice coins in ngc holders and then cross and realize a significant increase in value. pcgs is worth there grading fees as you will realize the most money for your coins when you sell. >>
Shhhh!!! Don't give away the buffalo club's secrets!
<< <i>toned buff, from my experience if you go to sell buff nickels in ngc holders even if properly graded get ready to realize 20% less value. in my oppinion you can cherrypick nice coins in ngc holders and then cross and realize a significant increase in value. pcgs is worth there grading fees as you will realize the most money for your coins when you sell. >>
Ah, but I don't sell my coins! However, as I said, I'd like to use PCGS (I do prefer their holder) but I just find it a bit expensive for my taste, and considering I only holder them because I like the look and comfort of having them encapsulated.
That being said, I do prefer to buy PCGS coins when possible, but again, I seem to find more buffs in NGC. NGC grades buffs very well, in my opinion, not too loose, nor too tight. For the upper end coins (buffs), I have not seen any difference in prices realized between NGC and PCGS, but that is just my observations, not a fact I suppose.
At the end of the day, the coin is the value, right? If I were to sell, and it was average stuff (say MS65 1938D's) then I suppose perhaps I'd do better in PCGS. However, for a 1913 S T2 with color, or any date proof... I think most folks are buying the coin, not the holder.