Secrets of the Buffalo: My opinions...
BuffaloIronTail
Posts: 7,577 ✭✭✭✭✭
OK...ya wanna collect original 1913-1938 Buffs?
Here's some guidelines for you....in general...
1) 1937 3-Leg authenticity check:
If you do not know if a specimen is real, all you have to do is look at the bottom inside feather. ALL 37-D genuine 3-leg coins are actually 2 1/2 feather coins. Look real close at the inside of the feather where it should connect to the Indian, and you will see that it has been "abraided". There is a definite gap where the feather should connect to the back of the Indian.
2) Purchasing a VF 1926-S raw OR SLABBED specimen is your call. ALL OF THEM, at least the ones that I know of, do not meet the criteria of the grade. They do not show the full length of the horn due to strike. They are market graded by "overall wear". I know it cost serious money, but if you're gonna buy one, you decided to spend that money.
You may never find one, but hold out for a full-horn-to-the-tip coin.
3) When purchasing 1920-S, EVEN IF IT IS IN CIRCULATED GRADE...look for one that has a decent reverse, because ANY coin from that year and Mint with a decent reverse strike commands a premium.
4) NEVER....and I mean NEVER....purchase a raw 1913-S Type 2 in a high grade (VF or above) without a guarantee from the seller.
ALWAYS purchase one from a reputable dealer.
5) 1927-D is notorious for a weak reverse. Be selective. Coins with well-struck reverses are few and far between.
6) When looking for a 1923-S in XF or better, purchase one with a full horn to the tip....NOT a market graded coin with mint luster but not a complete horn. Flat heads rule on this issue.
Oh well. Just thought I'd clue you in to my personal feelings about the series. Knowledge is power.
Be very selective.
Pete
Here's some guidelines for you....in general...
1) 1937 3-Leg authenticity check:
If you do not know if a specimen is real, all you have to do is look at the bottom inside feather. ALL 37-D genuine 3-leg coins are actually 2 1/2 feather coins. Look real close at the inside of the feather where it should connect to the Indian, and you will see that it has been "abraided". There is a definite gap where the feather should connect to the back of the Indian.
2) Purchasing a VF 1926-S raw OR SLABBED specimen is your call. ALL OF THEM, at least the ones that I know of, do not meet the criteria of the grade. They do not show the full length of the horn due to strike. They are market graded by "overall wear". I know it cost serious money, but if you're gonna buy one, you decided to spend that money.
You may never find one, but hold out for a full-horn-to-the-tip coin.
3) When purchasing 1920-S, EVEN IF IT IS IN CIRCULATED GRADE...look for one that has a decent reverse, because ANY coin from that year and Mint with a decent reverse strike commands a premium.
4) NEVER....and I mean NEVER....purchase a raw 1913-S Type 2 in a high grade (VF or above) without a guarantee from the seller.
ALWAYS purchase one from a reputable dealer.
5) 1927-D is notorious for a weak reverse. Be selective. Coins with well-struck reverses are few and far between.
6) When looking for a 1923-S in XF or better, purchase one with a full horn to the tip....NOT a market graded coin with mint luster but not a complete horn. Flat heads rule on this issue.
Oh well. Just thought I'd clue you in to my personal feelings about the series. Knowledge is power.
Be very selective.
Pete
"I tell them there's no problems.....only solutions" - John Lennon
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Comments
Im getting into buffalo nickels and your remarks are great!. Brian
i just started with them
Also, I see many that have been acid treated/etched and/or corroded. They still sell for big money.
Is there as ideal grade for these and would you recommend holding out only for an example that is problem free?
<< <i>OK...ya wanna collect original 1913-1938 Buffs? Here's some guidelines for you....in general... 1) 1937 3-Leg authenticity check: If you do not know if a specimen is real, all you have to do is look at the bottom inside feather. ALL 37-D genuine 3-leg coins are actually 2 1/2 feather coins. Look real close at the inside of the feather where it should connect to the Indian, and you will see that it has been "abraided". There is a definite gap where the feather should connect to the back of the Indian. 2) Purchasing a VF 1926-S raw OR SLABBED specimen is your call. ALL OF THEM, at least the ones that I know of, do not meet the criteria of the grade. They do not show the full length of the horn due to strike. They are market graded by "overall wear". I know it cost serious money, but if you're gonna buy one, you decided to spend that money. You may never find one, but hold out for a full-horn-to-the-tip coin. 3) When purchasing 1920-S, EVEN IF IT IS IN CIRCULATED GRADE...look for one that has a decent reverse, because ANY coin from that year and Mint with a decent reverse strike commands a premium. 4) NEVER....and I mean NEVER....purchase a raw 1913-S Type 2 in a high grade (VF or above) without a guarantee from the seller. ALWAYS purchase one from a reputable dealer. 5) 1927-D is notorious for a weak reverse. Be selective. Coins with well-struck reverses are few and far between. 6) When looking for a 1923-S in XF or better, purchase one with a full horn to the tip....NOT a market graded coin with mint luster but not a complete horn. Flat heads rule on this issue. Oh well. Just thought I'd clue you in to my personal feelings about the series. Knowledge is power. Be very selective. Pete >>
NEVER....and I mean NEVER....purchase a raw 1913-S Type 2 in a high grade (VF or above) without a guarantee from the seller. ALWAYS purchase one from a reputable dealer, is the concern here grade or authenticity?
1918/7 Overdate:
This coin is very collectable for what it is. 20th Century overdates are rare. This coin is just now showing it's true rarity and has jumped in price due to collector demand. There just are not enough decent specimens out there.
There may be around 40,000 or so left to collectors. Most of them entered circulation and remained there because the Overdate was not discovered until many years later.
That is why most are worn to crap.
I was lucky enough to purchase one for 500 bucks a few years back. It grades PCGS G-6 (G/VG) and has a full, readable date.
If you are thinking of purchasing one, look for one in Fine condition. The whole date will show up decent at that grade level.
Hope this helps
Pete
FrederickCoinClub
If i might add to the list , Always look for the die crack from ribbon to jaw on the 1918/7 Buffalo, can be seen most of the time and also make sure the right edge of the E in FIVE lines up with the left edge of the mint mark.
When buying a 1914/3 Buffalo there are different DDO, make sure your getting the bold or prominent underlying 3 .
I could'nt agree more about the 1926-S , most that i have saw slabbed are market graded.
Beware of the acid washes. I have seen many Buffalo's on fleabay were LIBERTY was worn into the rim and almost non-existant , but the reverse had full horn. These coins are usually porous looking and are easily spotted most of the time.
If your into varieties keep an eye out for Two Feathers and Missing Designers Initials F. I recently went to a coin shop and picked out 2 Two Feathers and a Missing Designers Initial that was'nt even listed in the Cherrypickers book which i think is cool to discover a piece.
Beware of the polished Buffalo, went into a antique store just to see what they had and almost every Buffalo was shining like a mint state coin even thou they were all well circulated pieces.
Watch for the die erosion on mint state coins this could effect the grade by one or two grades..
Most 1937-D 3 legged Buffalo's are weak cause of the excessive die polishing. Look for the moth eating appearance of the hind leg of the Buffalo and on the indians neck. Also should be Raised dots/marks from the belly to the field in between the front and back legs.
Wear on a Buffalo can most likely be seen first on the cheek, hip bone and flank.
There are so many more, which makes collecting Buffalo's that much more exciting.
Yep, I concur! Here's a thread I posted recently: link
Cartwheel
Cartwheel's Showcase Coins
I'm definitely not a fan of market grading in this regard.
<< <i>ALL OF THEM, at least the ones that I know of, do not meet the criteria of the grade. They do not show the full length of the horn due to strike. They are market graded by "overall wear".
I'm definitely not a fan of market grading in this regard.
I sold a real nice VF with the hint of a horn tip as a fine because I didn't know this.
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