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Starting a Dansco 7070 Type Album?

I am starting a Dansco 7070 Type collection, I am recently back into collecting coins and this messge board has help me out alot. My Questian is what is the best way to do this collection, is it just fill it in with the different coins, or should you do it as all phillie mints, or should it be a good mix of all mints, and should i focus on AU or beter on all dates 1900 +,or as graded coins, I am on a limited buget but here and there can spend a little extra on a coin if i really like it and need it. Thank for all the help so far from what i have all ready read but just looking for some more good advice.

Comments

  • If you go au, you'll be running into some serious money for the older type coins.
    i am trying mine in vf and will go down to a strong fine when i can't afford better.
    mine is only about 60 percent done, but i would recommend trying to get some
    of the more difficult ones first, or at least start keeping an eye out for one.
    you can always add your personal touch to it, if you want to do certain mints or
    key dates. Like bob ross the painter always says "its your world".
  • MikeInFLMikeInFL Posts: 10,188 ✭✭✭✭
    Whatever you do, figure out your strategy early, and try and stick to it. Your post indicates you are doing this, so well done!...Mike
    Collector of Large Cents, US Type, and modern pocket change.
  • BaleyBaley Posts: 22,663 ✭✭✭✭✭
    It's your book, how you collect it is entirely up to you.
    Answers to many of your questions and lots of discussion can be found by searching "dansco" "7070" and "type set" in this forum.

    Good luck ahd have fun!

    Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry

  • Steve27Steve27 Posts: 13,275 ✭✭✭
    I would go with a mix of mints and I think AU is too high for some of the earlier coins.
    "It's far easier to fight for principles, than to live up to them." Adlai Stevenson
  • BochimanBochiman Posts: 25,556 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Do what YOU want, as Baley suggests...


    The way I am doing it in our book is to go with MS coins for the later ones. Then, with NICE examples that you can read the entire coin. So, if LIBERTY is spelled out somewhere (shield/headdress/etc), then my example needs to have that.

    I also am trying for original toned or "used" look for the older coins.

    I've been told I tolerate fools poorly...that may explain things if I have a problem with you. Current ebay items - Nothing at the moment

  • The album looks overwhelming at first. I went to my local coin shop and spent about $200 filling the easy holes. I tried to fill at least one hole on each page. This will give you the feeling of accomplishment right away. Then you can take your time and work on the tougher holes.

    Follow Baley's advice and do a search on "type set", "dansco", "7070, etc. and you will get tons of good advice.

    Enjoy.
    Bill
  • TootawlTootawl Posts: 5,877 ✭✭✭
    What helped me alot was to concentrate on a particular series or line in the book: Do Lincoln cents, then do your dimes, then nickels. then do your large cents, etc. This will help you stay focused on what you're doing and you will learn more about about each denomination of the coins as you go along.
    PCGS Currency: HOF 2013, Best Low Ball Set 2009-2014, 2016, 2018. Appreciation Award 2015, Best Showcase 2018, Numerous others.
  • BBNBBN Posts: 3,761 ✭✭✭
    I'm going for the golds also. I already had an album about 33% full with alot of AGs and Gs and I recently gutted it and don't have much in it now. I have a nice half dime in it, a 1909 VDB and a red wheatie. I have some nice MS coins in slabs that I'm going to crack out to add to it. About 7 of them. I alot of the modern crap I'm going to look for proofs. Almost all other 20th century I'm looking for MS and and 19th century I'd like to stay at XF or higher if I can afford it. If not I'll settle for F/VF. I expect that this will be a 15 year journey.

    Positive BST Transactions (buyers and sellers): wondercoin, blu62vette, BAJJERFAN, privatecoin, blu62vette, AlanLastufka, privatecoin

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  • The best thing to do is not sweat about what to buy or how to do it. Of the series I've worked on, the 7070 was probably the most fun, because you get to play around with a lot of coins you probably wouldn't look at either way.

    Fill the holes as the coins become available....for me the Seated Dollars were the hardest to fill. You can always go back and upgrade as the spirit moves you.

    ( I got real sick of Seated coins by the time I finished )
  • BarryBarry Posts: 10,100 ✭✭✭
    Decide what YOU want to do and do it. It's your set.

    I had a lot of fun putting mine together. Click the link in the sig line if you want to see it.
  • thank you for your advice it will help me to deside what why i want to go, also what is the Avg. amount it cost to but a set togther and how long did it talk or how long have you been working on your set, not that i am in a big hurry to get it don't but whated to see about the avg. or how long and much it cost. i know it depend on grade but just looking for a average
    thanks again I will keep you guys updated as I put it together and also how my other set are going almost done with my mercury dime set 13 left.
  • i started out totally randomly buying coins. my advice - start with one denomination, perhaps two. i started off with quarters and halves.... and im still working on quarters and halves. i like having SOME method to my madness


    edit: im sticking to XF-AU range
  • LeeGLeeG Posts: 12,162
    I echo what everyone else has said. Make it "Fun". Don't rush to fill a hole. Make it a five, 10, 15 year project. You'll be much happier, and have better coins, when the set is completeimage
  • Just don't look at Baley's set..it'll make you feel very "inadequate" image
  • ldhairldhair Posts: 7,354 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Some great thoughts. There are so many ways to do it.

    Let me share a mistake I made.
    When I was about half way, I noticed that the set just didn't have the look.
    I mixed too many grades on a single page and nothing matched.
    It just didn't look right.

    Over time I replaced some of the bright coins with something that matched the rest of the page.
    Over the years a bit of toning has helped make the set even more evenly matched.

    Sounds like you are on the right track by making out a plan first. image
    Larry

  • I am doing a 7070 too and I have to agree that you can do it any way that makes you happy...within your budget, of course. image
    Time sure flies when you don't know what you're doing...
    My Web Sites
  • The 7070 set is my pride and joy, Start out with coins within your budget try to complete the book and then have fun upgrading over the future years. I have been working on my set for about 15 years and have it completed with all but a couple of early cents and the seated liberty dollar with motto not being in AU or MS. I am also trying to find the nicest toned coins that I can find for the set. As someone said earlier this can be a long term project that will be hours and hours of fun learning and studying about each different type coin and try to match the coins in your set concerning overall eye appeal. I don't think I will ever finish my set, it will always be a slow work in progress especially on a soldiers budget.
    Thanks
    Allen
    Love those TONED Coins, a true Addict!!!

    Proud member of TCCS!
  • BarndogBarndog Posts: 20,516 ✭✭✭✭✭
    As to cost, it really is dependent on grade of coins selected. If you average Choice XF-AU (with modern coins being choice BU) and settle for VF to choice VF for some of the expensive early copper, you can do a set for $6000 or so, excluding the gold page. This assumes no or few rare dates/mint marks.
  • pontiacinfpontiacinf Posts: 8,915 ✭✭


    << <i>Decide what YOU want to do and do it. It's your set.

    I had a lot of fun putting mine together. Click the link in the sig line if you want to see it. >>



    Barry thats a real nice 7070 you put together image
    image

    Go BIG or GO HOME. ©Bill
  • LanLordLanLord Posts: 11,726 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I agree with Baley (Of course what does he know about Dansco 7070 albums image).

    It's your album, do what makes you happy.

    Some things I have done and some things I have learned along the way.

    1 - Don't mix PROOFs with circ strikes in the album. It looks weird.
    2 - Keep all your coins similar looking. If you like toned coins, make them all that way, if you like untoned coins (same thing), mixing looks weird.
    3 - Don't go shopping with a single coin in mind (ie. I am going to get the 1859 IHC, and if I can't find that, I won't buy anything) because many times there are nice coins that will fill other locations in your album, just be flexible.
    4 - Have fun, put together a set that makes you happy.
    5 - Don't settle for something just to fill that hole, you'll look at it everytime afterwards and regret it.
    6 - Have fun, put together a set that makes you happy.
    7 - It doesn't look all that bad to have modern coins in MS state, while the older ones are lower in grade based on age, it sort of provides a context for the coins and how they are available in the real world. But try to avoid any real dogs, and try to keep coins of similar ages in similar grades.
  • BaleyBaley Posts: 22,663 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Don't mix PROOFs with circ strikes in the album. It looks weird.

    Actually, I like my moderns (the term defined by me means civil war era to present) to be proofs,
    to display the "evolution" of coinage over the past 200 years.

    This progression in minting technology is showcased in the 7070, and can be emphasized by having the very old coins be slightly worn and "old looking" (or greatly worn and "really old looking", depending on ones budget) and then the coins get nicer (condition) and shinier as they get newer (as they also tend to get less attractive, artistically speaking, with men's ugly mugs gradually replacing pretty renditions of Lady Liberty)

    This evolution of our coinage is also kind of nice when showing the album to non-collectors (one of the great advantages of a coin album over a box of slabs... the album can be carried around like a book and the pages turned, instead of shuffling a bunch of slabs). People really appreciate the historical aspect of coin collecting when a complete set is presented this way.

    Anyway, Two of my seated coins are proofs, as are my modern indian cent, lib nickel, war nickel, and almost all of my 20th century pieces. I've got PCGS proof Morgan, Walking Lib, and Winged Lib still in slabs but intended for the book, but I'm still too ascared to crack em out image

    Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry

  • CladiatorCladiator Posts: 18,258 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>5 - Don't settle for something just to fill that hole, you'll look at it everytime afterwards and regret it. >>

    When I read that one it sounded like it was coming from the heart. Past experience I'm guessing right?
  • thank you all for your good advice, i am looking forword to starting it. I enjoyed looking at the set that you guys put together. i am not sure how i am going to do it but i think i am either going to make my set whith all phillie, and then add apage in the back that fits morgans so i can show all the differnet mint that made morgan (P,O,CC,S,D), but I thank all of you for the great advice, I can't start tell after Christmas since i know my wife is get stuff off of my want list for the local coin shop so once christmas is over I am going to get started, I am still going to work on my other set along the side with this set.
  • Like most have mentioned on this forum, it's your call. That's what makes the 7070 so popular, I think.

    For mine, I am going all AU and above in condition for the coins. I want as much detail as possible when I go back to how coins looked. Yeah, it costs more (of course) but I'm almost 70% completed and I'm not going to just "fill a hole", which I think is sound advice from an earlier post.

    If you decide to put some nicer coins in the album, you might consider also purchasing the Dansco slip cover for it. It just gives you a little extra protection.
    -----------------------
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    Finish like a professional!
  • LanLordLanLord Posts: 11,726 ✭✭✭✭✭


    << <i>

    << <i>5 - Don't settle for something just to fill that hole, you'll look at it everytime afterwards and regret it. >>

    When I read that one it sounded like it was coming from the heart. Past experience I'm guessing right? >>

    More times than you know!image
  • This has been a great thread...after reading this I did a search for past threads and got some really great info as well.
    There is something that I have found to be a problem though, there are a couple of holes on my book that are just too small for the actual coins that I have....
    Has anybody encountered this before? and if yes....any suggestions/solutions???
    I have heard of the holes being too big sometimes so that some use shims and collars to make the tight fit but I have yet heard of my same problem....
    Any/All feedback is greatly appreciated...
  • InYHWHWeTrustInYHWHWeTrust Posts: 1,451 ✭✭✭


    << <i>This has been a great thread...after reading this I did a search for past threads and got some really great info as well.
    There is something that I have found to be a problem though, there are a couple of holes on my book that are just too small for the actual coins that I have....
    Has anybody encountered this before? and if yes....any suggestions/solutions???
    I have heard of the holes being too big sometimes so that some use shims and collars to make the tight fit but I have yet heard of my same problem....
    Any/All feedback is greatly appreciated... >>



    I performed gradual dilatation with the edge of a pen (ballpoint retracted image of course), any plastic thingy should work fine. Dilatation is a whole lot easier than the opposite problem (shims) imo. Good luck!

    Don
    Do your best to avoid circular arguments, as it will help you reason better, because better reasoning is often a result of avoiding circular arguments.
  • Thanks a ton Don for the advise, I'll start working on that (very carefully of course)....

    Julian


  • << <i>Dilatation is a whole lot easier than the opposite problem (shims) imo. Good luck! >>



    You'll find the large cent holes are too big...you'll have to shim 'em in...

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