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Call me crazy but I ordered a Liberty Seated Dime...
RYK
Posts: 35,796 ✭✭✭✭✭
Dansco album over the weekend. As my type set nears completion, I am planning for my next raw circulated set. This one should keep me busy for quite some time.
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<< <i>Dansco album over the weekend. As my type set nears completion, I am planning for my next raw circulated set. This one should keep me busy for quite some time. >>
I really like seated dimes. I am sure it will be an interesting set. As for "busy for quite some time", didn't you complete your last type set in about 6 hours?
Didn't wanna get me no trade
Never want to be like papa
Working for the boss every night and day
--"Happy", by the Rolling Stones (1972)
Does this mean I have to go out and buy an old Dahlonega $5?
Give or take.
I probably filled about one-third of the 7070 album with coins I had laying around the house. I have very few circ seated dimes, none can be found in change (without the assistance of a time machine), and it will take me quite a long time to save up the money to buy Barry's 74-CC.
Does this mean I have to go out and buy an old Dahlonega $5?
My decision to start the seated dime set is independent of any other sets in progress.
Hope you get your 1874-cc dime reserved soon because they rarely show up in undamaged condition. But bang for the buck, keep a lookout for nice circs of the early O and S mint dimes.
roadrunner
<< <i>No, I would have only said you were crazy if you were starting a seated quarter set.
Hope you get your 1874-cc dime reserved soon because they rarely show up in undamaged condition. But bang for the buck, keep a lookout for nice circs of the early O and S mint dimes. >>
One of the things I like about seated dims is that it's a long series with a lot of challenges, some of them not all that expensive. It will take a long time even as you can make steady progress for a long time.
As you mentioned, finding nice, original early branch mint pieces in VF and above isn't easy with a few exceptions ('57-O, for example, is pretty easy to locate in high grades). Most of them are more worn than this, or have been cleaned to hell and back, or are just plain damaged. As I'm building most of my set in VF/EF condition, there's quite a few challenges that aren't all that pricey relative to scarcity.
I didn't know what I was getting into back in the late 80's when I started my collection of Seated Quarters.
Ray
57-0 is a later O mint imo. I consider the early ones to be pre-1853.
52-0 and earlier are the neater ones. Though I have to admit the 1853-0 in strong VF or better probably used to be my #1 sleeper.
The 58-0 is also tough but there are enough coins to go around.
If I were doing a set I'd ignore all the common coins until I had all the keys, semi-keys, and scarce dates in tow. Those are the coins that everyone wants. There are lots of Philly dates that just tend to fill up a book......but maybe a rarer variety of the Philly dates would be interesting.
roadrunner
BTW, I'm probably going to be consigning my "spare" 74-CC to auction soon. It's AU details with an old cleaning, if you're interested. Buy soon before prices go up any more! Stack's sold a very similar (though mine has slightly more detail) 74-CC a few months ago for $39K.
Completely agree with this point. Collecting seated dimes in nice "original" VF or better will take a long time. The challenge is not in locating examples of tough dates, rather finding "original" coins with even gray or brown color. There is nothing more impressive than completing a circulated set of silver coins with original patina. With the seated series requiring 121 coins, the challenge is significant even with access to more selection via the internet. Then add in full strikes (heads) and the level of difficulty is magnified.
Good luck..........and let me know if I can help. I still have some gem circulated duplicates in the bank.
<< <i>Completely agree with this point. Collecting seated dimes in nice "original" VF or better will take a long time. The challenge is not in locating examples of tough dates, rather finding "original" coins with even gray or brown color. There is nothing more impressive than completing a circulated set of silver coins with original patina. With the seated series requiring 121 coins, the challenge is significant even with access to more selection via the internet. Then add in full strikes (heads) and the level of difficulty is magnified. >>
I see a lot of them in the condition I'm working on in terms of wear...but most of them are damaged or cleaned, especially some of the tougher early dates. It's a shame to see an otherwise nice, high-grade '45-O, '49-O or '52-O, for example, that has been cleaned. These are harder to find than their current values would indicate.
<< <i>Good luck..........and let me know if I can help. I still have some gem circulated duplicates in the bank. >>
Oh, I need plenty of help, that much I know for sure...! It's mostly a matter of when the money is available (and the coin, of course). It's just about time to pay property taxes here, and there goes $4,500 I'll never see again...
siliconvalleycoins.com
I would like it for my Royal Oak Mint set of coins. Is it cheap?
<< <i>I am going to pursue the branch mint coins first. I have ordered the following two coins from Gerry Fortin to get started:
Looks like this will be a uniform grade set you have going.
Those no star seated coins are way cool. One day I also will have one or two or three or four......
Ken
Oh yeah, well you need a Russ grammar and spelling consult.
<< <i>Those no star seated coins are way cool. One day I also will have one or two or three or four...... >>
I agree. I've gotta get me some of them.
Collectors need to be careful grading them (and the no drapery with stars dimes, too). The LIBERTY on the shield wears differently than later dimes, and a coin can be a full Fine even if a couple of letters in the middle are missing. In fact, if you have a full LIBERTY on one of them, you probably have at least a full VF.
In other words, if you have one that looks like this '38-O up for sale on eBay, don't hurt yourself and call it a VG!
Cause I thought VG on that 38-O.....
With the CC being a EF.....
?
<< <i>Okay, what grades would you put on these two coins.....
Cause I thought VG on that 38-O.....
With the CC being a EF..... >>
The CC coin is a solid AU, at least a 53 if not 55, IMO.
The '38-O is a perfect example of what I was referring to before. The no stars and no-drapery version of the seated dime have a different obverse than most of the series: the shield is held at more of an angle (instead of upright), and the shield also wears much more readily than later issues (much as the dates on the SLQs wore quickly before 1925).
Because of that, you can't use the usual "letters of LIBERTY" rule to give a Fine designation to the earliest seated dimes. For this type, LIBERTY may be incomplete yet the coin still grade a solid F-12, as this one does. In fact, this '38-O reverse is almost fully VF.
A shield with this much wear and an incomplete LIBERTY would limit this coin to VG after 1840, but not here.
Didn't wanna get me no trade
Never want to be like papa
Working for the boss every night and day
--"Happy", by the Rolling Stones (1972)
Barry won't sell me the key date for a reasonable price.
Russ, NCNE
Thank you for the kind offer. I know how much that coin means to you, so I am going to PASS.
In RYK's Little Numismatic World, $30,000 for a dime is not reasonable.
<< <i>I am going to pursue the branch mint coins first. >>
Excellent choice. I should have started my quarter set similarly.
<< <i>I will give you 30 for it.................... >>
That's a good deal. The other guy only offered 25