wait certain amount of time you want it to be in the solution and then rinse in spring water liberally. hoping getting the other side wet will not hurt it.
Sure, it can be done. First apply a layer of vasoline to those areas you don't want the dip to affect, do the dip, then use acetone to dissolve away the vasoline. The dip, being water based, won't affect the areas protected by the oil of the vasoline and the acetone, when it removes the vasoline, will not affect the coloration of the protected areas.
Can one side be coated with hot wax or laquer which protects the surface during the dipping process?
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
This sounds like a tricky proposition any way you turn it, but personally I would avoid wax like the plague. The vaseline idea sounds a bit safer, but I don't think I'd go that route either.
The wax method will work as well. Start with a puddle of wax on a piece of waxed paper. Heat it gently to soften it until it just becomes or almost becomes liquid. Place the side of the coin to be protected into the wax and let it harden. Dip the exposed side and rinse very well. Then put he wax coated coin into hot water and gently heat to about 140 degrees F. At that temperature the wax will melt and come off the coin. (You may have to come up with some way to "swish" the coin around under the surface of the hot water to make sure that all the wax comes off the coin.) Let the water cool and the wax willl form a skin on the surface of the water. Remove the wax and then the coin. You might want to do a final wash with hot distilled water and/or acetone. The low temperatures needed to soften and/or melt the wax should be low enough that no discoloration of the coin should occur.
Conder101---Thanks. Sounds like a lot of work uusing wax. I'd try any technique on a cheap coin before doing it to an expensive coin.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
the coin in question is a beautiful proof frankie. It is a 64 by PCGS. the obverse is an ugly red/brown. the reverse is a stunning purple/blue iridescent, probably some of the nicest toning i have ever seen on a coin. however, the obverse is just nasty and was wondering if it was curable. thanks for all your responses
You guys are sharp. I appreciate you all sharing the information about how to IMPROVE a coin, but as a former machinist/diesel mechanic turned roofer ( I was able to trade a torque wrench in for a hatchet), it is baffling to me that there are "good" coin mechanics out there. Just curious how long some of the forum members who use chemicals and such were in the numismatic field before using chemicals to restore coins? and WHY ?
It is just by my own choice that I do not do anything to a coin (chemically speaking), but can appreciate bringing the beauty out of a coin, for beauty's sake, though my feeling is : "Full Disclosure" when dealing with people in this field, especially if it is a coin that is a High Grade or Rare, and an MS64 Frankie in a PCGS holder would do well to stay there. If a doctor can get MS65 or 66 out of it, great, but once a coin has reacted with the environment over time, that IS it's STATE. MS64 sounds to me that no matter what is done to the coin, chances are the graders at PCGS will still find it to be an MS64 if it doesn't get body bagged... , or was the hope to get MS67 at NTC or ACG ?
Also, it is my understanding that vaseline is petrolatum which is a petroleum base. This is a chemical, too. Don't all chemicals have some affect or another on a coin ? Sure acetone evaporates, and brasso does a great job on Sacagawea's too (manganese brass clad)....but this is PCGS's forum and We are talking "dipping".
Taking the finished product and "making it better" or "improving" it's appearance, restoring or dipping just doesn't work for me and to me would be the death of a coin.
couple more questions.... I have a 3000 psi (pounds per square inch) power washer..... should I use hot or cold water to remove the gunk that builds up between the UNITED STATES OF AMERICA on my coins, when washing ? and should I put it in the vice first ? How much torque to hold it in there ? I wouldn't wanna lose it with all that pressure just kidding
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collections: Maryland related coins & exonumia, 7070 Type set, and Video Arcade Tokens.
The Low Budget Y2K Registry Set
wait certain amount of time you want it to be in the solution and
then rinse in spring water liberally. hoping getting the other side wet
will not hurt it.
<< <i>Is it possible to only dip one side of a coin without altering the opposite side? >>
I wouldn't even think of trying it.
``https://ebay.us/m/KxolR5
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
maybe try using a syringe and drop dip solution on areas you want cleared
don't usea Q-tip on a proof
DIP IS THE DEVILS BLOOD!!!!!
More coins have been ruined with that stuff
<< <i>LEAVE IT ALONE!!!!!!
DIP IS THE DEVILS BLOOD!!!!!
More coins have been ruined with that stuff >>
That's a pretty serious way to describe it
It is just by my own choice that I do not do anything to a coin (chemically speaking), but can appreciate bringing the beauty out of a coin, for beauty's sake, though my feeling is : "Full Disclosure" when dealing with people in this field, especially if it is a coin that is a High Grade or Rare, and an MS64 Frankie in a PCGS holder would do well to stay there. If a doctor can get MS65 or 66 out of it, great, but once a coin has reacted with the environment over time, that IS it's STATE. MS64 sounds to me that no matter what is done to the coin, chances are the graders at PCGS will still find it to be an MS64 if it doesn't get body bagged... , or was the hope to get MS67 at NTC or ACG ?
Also, it is my understanding that vaseline is petrolatum which is a petroleum base. This is a chemical, too. Don't all chemicals have some affect or another on a coin ? Sure acetone evaporates, and brasso does a great job on Sacagawea's too (manganese brass clad)....but this is PCGS's forum and We are talking "dipping".
Taking the finished product and "making it better" or "improving" it's appearance, restoring or dipping just doesn't work for me and to me would be the death of a coin.
couple more questions.... I have a 3000 psi (pounds per square inch) power washer..... should I use hot or cold water to remove the gunk that builds up between the UNITED STATES OF AMERICA on my coins, when washing ? and should I put it in the vice first ? How much torque to hold it in there ? I wouldn't wanna lose it with all that pressure
``https://ebay.us/m/KxolR5