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Are we sure hardware-store acetate is good enough?
gyocomgd
Posts: 2,582 ✭✭✭
Read somewhere that acetate sold in hardware stores isn't of sufficient quality to use on coins. Thoughts? The thing I read runs contrary to what I've picked up in a couple of threads here over the last couple of months.
Also, when you rinse with water, is tap water sufficient or is distilled water markedly better/safer?
Thanks---Guy
Also, when you rinse with water, is tap water sufficient or is distilled water markedly better/safer?
Thanks---Guy
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Apropos of the coin posse/aka caca: "The longer he spoke of his honor, the tighter I held to my purse."
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
Tap water contains various minerals at varying levels depending on how hard or soft your water is. Did you ever leave tap water in a clear glass until it evaporates and a white residue is left in the glass? Most likely it is an impure residue predominantly made of calcium carbonate and other minerals and impurities. These can attach to the surface of a coin and haze it up. Distilled water is much purer and less likely to leave a residue.
Be careful with what you are removing from the surface of a coin and what a "cleaned" coin is exposed to. If you take off a coins oxide layer you leave a surface that is much more reactive than when the oxide layer was present. Pure metals that are reactive will seek something to combine with as an attempt to be more stable.
Just use a clean batch of acetone for a few seconds once you've removed whatever you're removing, and allow it to vaporate...
42/92
Also, use a glass container and not a plastic one, the acetone will break down the plastic. That's what it does. You will want a container that can be sealed, as the fumes are harmful (do not breathe it in, use in a well ventilated area, preferably outside or in the garage with the door open). I personally use canning jars.
To dispose of it, just pour it outside on a driveway or other surface that will not absorb it. The acetone will evaporate away.
Thoroughly wash whatever container you used it in before re-using that container to remove any PVC or other residues that came off your coin and settled into the jar.
The reverse looks like new, the obverse looks a little dull.
I rinsed with soapy water, then with clean water.
Acetone was used in movie theater projection booths for 'splicing' broken film. When a piece of movie film broke, the ends were overlapped by one frame and treated with acetone. The acetone formed a 'weld' of the film substrate material. It will do the same thing with any plastic container, so be sure to use a glass container. Do not use a metal container, either.
Acetone (100% solution) is available at most drug stores. Do not use nail polish remover. The principal ingredient in nail polish remover is acetone, but it also contains emolients and perfumes and other nasty things you do not want on your coins.
Having said all of that, I must agree with Dizzyfoxx: "Two words... "original" "surfaces"!!! 'nuff said". Any cleaning, conserving, or other treatment of a coin should only be done if there is some substance on the surface that will, over time, deteriorate the coin, and removal is the only way to save the coin. Otherwise, leave it alone.
Acid will affect the surface metal of a coin at different rates depending on density. In fact, it's quite commonly used on heavily circulated "dateless" buffalo nickels to make the date visible again. Because of this dipping a coin in acid will ALWAYS have a detrimental effect on the luster. Therefore, it's best to use a minimalist approach or you may end up with an "overdipped" coin with MS65 details and AU55 luster. Like this 1928 Peace dollar I returned to Heritage last week... and am still waiting on a refund for:
Acetone is not qualified as dipping (as ezest and other harsh acids are)
">"http://www.cashcrate.com/5663377"