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Help a noob? I need identification tips for 1942/1 Mercury dimes
I just bought two alleged 1942/1's sight unseen. I got one in the mail, and I lost it, maybe I will find it again, I hope so. It didnt look any different to me than a regular '42 under 2x magnification. The other one I bought, almost certianlly will be a rip off as the seller seems to be IMO a risky person to do business with.. He doesnt provide address for payment. He seems inept at ebaying, as you can tell froom his not listing the merchandise properly .
.. OOPS he just mailed me the addy as I was writing this....
OK now I read his message, he says the coin pictured is NOT the coin he sold me... says it is in almost identical condition to one shown
As to the other coin, how can I tell if it is truely an overdate if not immediatly visible to naked eye? This is one of two I bought
I saw another one that went too high for me to bid on that I couldnt really tell either..... This guy looks legit, but I cant tell by looking how to id this as a 42/1
As always, THANKS FOR THE HELP. Now I need to get back to lurking.... and sleeping. I have to work with Dave Mitchell in the morning, as a part of my 17 hour shift
.. OOPS he just mailed me the addy as I was writing this....
OK now I read his message, he says the coin pictured is NOT the coin he sold me... says it is in almost identical condition to one shown
As to the other coin, how can I tell if it is truely an overdate if not immediatly visible to naked eye? This is one of two I bought
I saw another one that went too high for me to bid on that I couldnt really tell either..... This guy looks legit, but I cant tell by looking how to id this as a 42/1
As always, THANKS FOR THE HELP. Now I need to get back to lurking.... and sleeping. I have to work with Dave Mitchell in the morning, as a part of my 17 hour shift
www.geocities.com/joemoris My Ebay and some personal goodies
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Comments
<< <i>
As to the other coin, how can I tell if it is truely an overdate if not immediatly visible to naked eye? This is one of two I bought >>
This one looks legit under magnification but somethings stinks and I believe it to be the seller!!
>>
I saw another one that went too high for me to bid on that I couldnt really tell either..... This guy looks legit, but I cant tell by looking how to id this as a 42/1
>>
This one also looks legit and eveything smells great!
Hope this coin turns out okay for ya! Post pics when you get them and we can help you more!
Good luck!
Zach
Check my ebay BIN or Make Offers!!
<< <i>OK now I read his message, he says the coin pictured is NOT the coin he sold me... says it is in almost identical condition to one shown >>
IMO, you are about to get stiffed on this sale.
At the very minimum, this seller is pulling a bait and switch on you.
Prepare to be hosed.
If I only had a dollar for every VAM I have...err...nevermind...I do!!
My "Fun With 21D" Die State Collection - QX5 Pics Attached
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<< <i>The one you bought looks legit with magnification to me. The "P" mint is very hard to see. You really need a loop to see it. The "D" mint is more prominent and I think makes it moore desireable. JMHO. Ray >>
It's the other way around.
Overall comment, unless you had the extra money to throw away or you were looking to just stick these in a book, neither coin is particularly striking. The 42/1-P (if it turns out to be real) is harshly cleaned while the 42/1-D is damaged (if even a real 42/1-D, because many people THINK they've found one when it is really the all too common strike doubling that Mercs have). For the price you paid for the 42/1-D -- even if it were real and not damaged -- you could've spent another $100-$150 and bought a certified, nice for the grade F-15 coin and maybe even a VF-20 (from the pictures, that's about all the raw coin would grade if it wasn't damaged).
Did you just get caught up in the excitement of the auction or was there a more deliberate reason for your puchasing these 2 coins? This is not meant as a flame or derogatory -- I'm simply curious for my own edification what were your drivers
I agree with mercurydimeguy. Joe, you should stick with only PCGS, NGC or ANACS coins until you get more experience under your belt. Also, I have always been fascinated how eBay buyers will bid on obvious scam auctions put up by blatant scam artists, yet the legitimate sellers who put up true auctions with great pictures and generous return privileges seem to get ignored. I will never understand it!
Our eBay auctions - TRUE auctions: start at $0.01, no reserve, 30 day unconditional return privilege & free shipping!
<< <i>Also, I have always been fascinated how eBay buyers will bid on obvious scam auctions put up by blatant scam artists, yet the legitimate sellers who put up true auctions with great pictures and generous return privileges seem to get ignored. I will never understand it! >>
Probably because the legitimate sellers aren't promising a "free lunch." Also, the obviously legitimate sellers are more likely to have their auctions bid up closer to retail, so the unsuspecting newbies looking for a "rip" go places where the knowledgeable buyers know to steer clear from.
The second seller is already telling you the coin is not the one in the photograph. So the photo is useless. He says you can clearly see the overdate under the 4. The 1 should be under the 2.
Personally I would only buy a 1942/1 at those prices if it were certified.
Now obviously this is a closeup, but even just looking at the dime in hand, there is obviously something going on with the last digit of the date.
<< <i>
<< <i>Also, I have always been fascinated how eBay buyers will bid on obvious scam auctions put up by blatant scam artists, yet the legitimate sellers who put up true auctions with great pictures and generous return privileges seem to get ignored. I will never understand it! >>
Probably because the legitimate sellers aren't promising a "free lunch." Also, the obviously legitimate sellers are more likely to have their auctions bid up closer to retail, so the unsuspecting newbies looking for a "rip" go places where the knowledgeable buyers know to steer clear from. >>
I know, it kills me too. I watch people spend a lot of $$ on questionable material while the "real deal" material just sits there. True every once in a while a fluke happens and you can get a decent deal on a coin, but lightning seldom strikes 2x. Sight unseen raw?? The seller should have a good history (e.g. feedback) of selling raw coins and to different buyers
I've observed that it almost doesn't pay for legit sellers to have good pictures because it removes the speculative aspect of an eBay purchase. Meaning, the more you show, the less there is to speculate about it. This is sick kind of thinking, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was close to being true.
I had a local guy call us recently. He is brand new to collecting and decided that he would build his collection through eBay purchases. He bought a lot of "slabbed" Morgans on eBay. The problem is that they were ALL third world slabs of the worst kind. I mean his MS-65 coins were cleaned AU's, etc. So.....I tell the guy to stick with PCGS or NGC slabbed Morgans until he was more comfortable with his grading skills. I then offer him some MS-63 NGC Morgans at bid. He looked at me like I was trying to rip him off! I was actually selling them for less than I could to some other retail customers, but I was trying to give the guy a break. He just left......back into his downward spiral of buying crap on eBay.
Our eBay auctions - TRUE auctions: start at $0.01, no reserve, 30 day unconditional return privilege & free shipping!
I do wish you luck, but be prepared for a disappointment IMHO
Pete
Louis Armstrong
The second guy says that you can clearly see 'it' under the 4. REALLY? Hubbell can, but i can't.
Jaderarecoin:
Everyone is always looking for a steal deal on E-Bay - That's why the fraud stuff sells, and the legite - well, IT"S TOO MUCH MONEY AND IS NOT A STEAL DEAL!!!
Who would anyone buy anything not certified on E-Bay is BEYOND me. P.T. Barnum's ghost is always lurking...