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Did you ever get a BB from ANACS, PCGS, or NGC and why?
GoldCoinLover
Posts: 1,244
Did you ever get a BB from ANACS (counterfeit), PCGS, NGC, and why? Or did you ever get a net grade from ANACS? This should be a fun thread 
I got a net grade from ANACS for my gold sovereign being scratched. The net grade was AU 55. The scratch was sever enough to take it down 3 points (It said details UNC)
Also, here's a pic of how sever the scratch is (Pic taken in direct sunlight in arizona at 130 degrees outside)


I got a net grade from ANACS for my gold sovereign being scratched. The net grade was AU 55. The scratch was sever enough to take it down 3 points (It said details UNC)
Also, here's a pic of how sever the scratch is (Pic taken in direct sunlight in arizona at 130 degrees outside)
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Not that I would be competent in avoiding the darn things, it's just that I collect well circulated rare and key date Seated coins. If I were a collector of Uncirculated coins, I'd have my share of body bags and expensive lessons to talk about.
When we are planning for posterity, we ought to remember that virtue is not hereditary.
Thomas Paine
1877cc seated dime BB/Questionable color
1888 ihc BB/Questionable color
1934p quarter BB/Not Genuine
U.S. Nickels Complete Set with Major Varieties, Circulation Strikes
U.S. Dimes Complete Set with Major Varieties, Circulation Strikes
Edited to add: I've never gotten one for cleaning, though, which seems to be the most common reason. I get them for artificial toning, altered surfaces, environmental damage, etc. Even got one from NGC for "rim filing", whatever the hell that is.
Edit #2: I take that back. I did get one for cleaning from NGC on a Morgan that had been bodybagged at PCGS for AT.
Russ, NCNE
rainbowroosie April 1, 2003
Lots of Net Grades for Morgans from ANACS (better dates that expect to sell) that I knew where cleaned oor otherwise would be BB from PCGS.
<< <i>...."several" deemed as being "AT" or "QT" >>
I don't know why they would bodybag a coin for Quality Toning.
Russ, NCNE
I fully admit in public that I have tried to slab some coins with questionable toning...we all learn the hard way....in fact, the only way to really learn what is "market acceptable" is to buy them, try to slab them, and comiserate over them!!...However, I have been very pleasantly surprised when some borderline gems made it into holders!!! Winning is fun!!!
rainbowroosie April 1, 2003
How about having the same coin BB'd by PCGS twice, NGC once, ANACS once, the second time around at ANACS it was holdered at which point it crossed at PCGS. I originally cracked it out of an NGC slab!!!
Larry
Dabigkahuna
<< <i>How about having the same coin BB'd by PCGS twice, NGC once, ANACS once, the second time around at ANACS it was holdered at which point it crossed at PCGS. I originally cracked it out of an NGC slab!!!
Did it ever make it into a a slab?
<< <i>I fully admit in public that I have tried to slab some coins with questionable toning... >>
You ain't the only one! I do it even after several people tell me it'll be bodybagged.
Russ, NCNE
None at NGC.
Several net grades from ANACS all of which I knew they would be netted which is why I sent them to ANACS to begin with.
Never any fakes.
If I had it my way, stupidity would be painful!
Chris
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
The whole set is up on eBay now, if anyone wants it. Click my sig link to see it.
<< <i>What's a bb?
Ah, a BB. Well , you can shoot squirrels and rabbits with it. It's good for hunting. They make good marbles too! Also good in car parts and yo-yo's.
Check out a Vanguard Roth IRA.
Both were in 2000 and were my very first ever submissions to a TPG.
1.) 1914-D Lincoln Cent (planchet flaw)
2.) 1916-D Mercury Dime (not genuine - added "D")
The 14-D I bought raw from eBay when I was a newbie. I paid $75. My fault, wasn't paying attention to the auction. It now resides in an ANACS holder - Fine Details NET VG 8 DAMAGED.
My dad bought the 16-D for me for $240 back in 1987. Turns out the guy he bought it from was a shady antiques dealer. My dad passed away in 1989 and until 2000 when I sent it to PCGS, I didn't realize that it was a fake. I thought I had a completed circulated Mercury dime set. I was heartbroken because my dad got me that coin. Lucky for that guy my dad passed away. If he had found out, my dad would have put him in the hospital unless he was refunded immediately. I found out just before my dad died from another antiques dealer, a good friend of my dad's, that this guy was shady. I showed him the coin and he put his thumbnail on the "D" to see if it would pop off. It didn't. I guess he wasn't strong enough. My dad's friend warned me about coin collecting and I completely lost interest in it for 10 years until I dug up my old childhood collection, found out about eBay and got bitten by the Bug. I've learned a great deal and have been collecting non-stop ever since. Anyway, the coin is still in its body bag and I'll keep it for educational purposes. I like to put some kind of stamp on it so that it doesn't fall into wrong hands.
A few days ago, I finally purchased a replacement 1916-D on eBay PCI (old green 10-digit) AG-3 that will be submitted to PCGS as soon as I get it in the mail.
Photos of the 2006 Boston Massacre
<< <i>Twice at PCGS.
Both were in 2000 and were my very first ever submissions to a TPG.
1.) 1914-D Lincoln Cent (planchet flaw)
2.) 1916-D Mercury Dime (not genuine - added "D")
The 14-D I bought raw from eBay when I was a newbie. I paid $75. My fault, wasn't paying attention to the auction. It now resides in an ANACS holder - Fine Details NET VG 8 DAMAGED.
My dad bought the 16-D for me for $240 back in 1987. Turns out the guy he bought it from was a shady antiques dealer. My dad passed away in 1989 and until 2000 when I sent it to PCGS, I didn't realize that it was a fake. I thought I had a completed circulated Mercury dime set. I was heartbroken because my dad got me that coin. Lucky for that guy my dad passed away. If he had found out, my dad would have put him in the hospital unless he was refunded immediately. I found out just before my dad died from another antiques dealer, a good friend of my dad's, that this guy was shady. I showed him the coin and he put his thumbnail on the "D" to see if it would pop off. It didn't. I guess he wasn't strong enough. My dad's friend warned me about coin collecting and I completely lost interest in it for 10 years until I dug up my old childhood collection, found out about eBay and got bitten by the Bug. I've learned a great deal and have been collecting non-stop ever since. Anyway, the coin is still in its body bag and I'll keep it for educational purposes. I like to put some kind of stamp on it so that it doesn't fall into wrong hands.
A few days ago, I finally purchased a replacement 1916-D on eBay PCI (old green 10-digit) AG-3 that will be submitted to PCGS as soon as I get it in the mail. >>
Your new to this forum, so I was wondering if you have alot of knowledge about coins and counterfeits?
Was just curious because you said your dad could not 'pop the D mint mark off' with his thumb. I don't understand this. A counterfeiter added that mintmark, how could you just pop it off?
The Ludlow Brilliant Collection (1938-64)
1 21573245 1913 5C Type 1 USA MS65
2 21573246 1900 S$1 USA PVC
3 21573247 1881-S S$1 USA MS65
4 21573248 1899 $20 USA MS62
Date Received: 04/23/2004
Date Shipped: No Date Specified
Ok, First of all. It's not even an 1900! It's a 1900-O. Good job.
I don't have a scan of the 1900-O which was bagged for PVC but there isn't a flaw on the coin. I might be able to remove the little PVC there might be but have never had to do it before so I might post a topic or search the boards on the best way to remove PVC.
I bought the 1900-O from the coin store in the New Orleans Mint!!!!!
Ok, so I'm a little shocked right now so I am going to bed. -Peace
<< <i>I bought the 1900-O from the coin store in the New Orleans Mint!!!!!
>>
That's no guarantee that the coin's original...
<< <i>
<< <i>Twice at PCGS.
Both were in 2000 and were my very first ever submissions to a TPG.
1.) 1914-D Lincoln Cent (planchet flaw)
2.) 1916-D Mercury Dime (not genuine - added "D")
The 14-D I bought raw from eBay when I was a newbie. I paid $75. My fault, wasn't paying attention to the auction. It now resides in an ANACS holder - Fine Details NET VG 8 DAMAGED.
My dad bought the 16-D for me for $240 back in 1987. Turns out the guy he bought it from was a shady antiques dealer. My dad passed away in 1989 and until 2000 when I sent it to PCGS, I didn't realize that it was a fake. I thought I had a completed circulated Mercury dime set. I was heartbroken because my dad got me that coin. Lucky for that guy my dad passed away. If he had found out, my dad would have put him in the hospital unless he was refunded immediately. I found out just before my dad died from another antiques dealer, a good friend of my dad's, that this guy was shady. I showed him the coin and he put his thumbnail on the "D" to see if it would pop off. It didn't. I guess he wasn't strong enough. My dad's friend warned me about coin collecting and I completely lost interest in it for 10 years until I dug up my old childhood collection, found out about eBay and got bitten by the Bug. I've learned a great deal and have been collecting non-stop ever since. Anyway, the coin is still in its body bag and I'll keep it for educational purposes. I like to put some kind of stamp on it so that it doesn't fall into wrong hands.
A few days ago, I finally purchased a replacement 1916-D on eBay PCI (old green 10-digit) AG-3 that will be submitted to PCGS as soon as I get it in the mail. >>
Your new to this forum, so I was wondering if you have alot of knowledge about coins and counterfeits?
Was just curious because you said your dad could not 'pop the D mint mark off' with his thumb. I don't understand this. A counterfeiter added that mintmark, how could you just pop it off? >>
My dad's friend (another antiques dealer who knew the guy who sold me the bogus dime) tried to pop it off. This guy told me that sometimes the "D" would pop right off. As for knowledge of coins and counterfiets, I'd be bragging if I had a fifth of the coin knowledge that these forum regulars have. I don't know how to grade coins and I only submit moderns when I see that there aren't any ticks on the coin. In a recent 2004-D Peace Medal nickel PCGS submission I had one MS67 (I got lucky) and 3 MS64s. That tells you how much I know. I'll admit I know more than the average guy on the street but I'm light years from having alot of knowledge. I have leaned much but I still have alot to learn. I consider myself a "senior novice" if there's such a thing.
Photos of the 2006 Boston Massacre
I follow the guidelines of buying PCGS/NGC/ANACS and old Green PCI (10-digit serial #) only. I buy raw only from a dealer that has earned and or proven his/herself to me.
Photos of the 2006 Boston Massacre
I follow the guidelines of buying PCGS/NGC/ANACS and old Green PCI (10-digit serial #) only. I buy raw only from a dealer that has earned and or proven his/herself to me. >>
I concur. Everyone out there, PLEASE, on key dates, DO YOUR HOMEWORK!!!!! Know the die characteristics of your key date coin and find them before making a purchase -- whether it's slabbed or not. If you're not sure, buy slabbed by PCGS/NGC/ANACS or buy from a reputable dealer. PCG/NGC/ANACS do a much better job in counterfeit detection than the other grading companies. Even then, check it anyway. Know what to look for in a counterfeit coin BEFORE you make a purchase. Here are some things to look for:
- Size -- Is it the correct size? Many counterfeits are really just intentional copies, and are marked as such and/or are different sizes.
- Weight -- Is it the correct weight per the Red Book? Some counterfeits use an improper mixture of metals, resulting in incorrect weights.
- Finish -- Does it have pot marks, strange toning, and appears weakly struck? Some counterfeits are struck with fake dies using the wrong mix of metals.
- Mint Mark -- Does it appear to be placed on intentionally, or is it the wrong size for that date? Some counterfeits botch the job by using, for example, a large "S" when a small "S" is correct.
- Die characteristics -- Do these correspond to real dies? Some counterfeits do not catch all of the details of real dies.
Check out a Vanguard Roth IRA.
I also got a bodybag from ICG on an 1882 O/S Morgan for whizzing/cleaning. This was before I knew how to identify such coins.
PCGS - 1853 G $1 - Cleaned
PCGS - 1915s Pan-Pacific G $1 - Scratch
PCGS - 1872 G $21/2 - Rim Nicks
PCGS - 1875s 20-cent - Questionable Color
Jim
<< <i>Was just curious because you said your dad could not 'pop the D mint mark off' with his thumb. I don't understand this. A counterfeiter added that mintmark, how could you just pop it off? >>
In many cases the added mintmark is simply held on with a tiny spot of glue. Pressure applied from the side by a strong fingernail can sometimes pop these added mintmarks right off the coin. If it doesn't, a soak in water or acetone will often dissolve the glue. Some times the glue dries out and the mintmark just falls off on its own. There is a story about a 16-D dime an ACG slab out there with the D bouncing around loose in the slab.
By the way, I am still the only person here who WANTS to get Bodybags! Prefereably with information about when they were submitted.
<< <i>There is a story about a 16-D dime an ACG slab out there with the D bouncing around loose in the slab >>
I've never gotten a BB from ANACS, but pretty much have the entire "reason set" from PCGS - except PVC!
I just sold a NGC BB last week
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