How to determine if a 1942 nickel is T1 or T2 (mintmark doesn't count) - UPDATED
I think the two types each weigh 5 grams (don't have my Redbook, so if that's not correct someone please advise). And I remember reading somewhere that both types have the same specific gravity.
So how can someone determine if there was a wrong planchet error?
Update below.
So how can someone determine if there was a wrong planchet error?
Update below.
New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.
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Comments
The ring test doesn't work for me, Gilbert. Even with known examples of each type I can't tell the difference.
New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.
Collector since 1976. On the CU forums here since 2001.
al h.
Collector since 1976. On the CU forums here since 2001.
<< <i>Usually the color's a dead giveaway for me. >>
That's precisely why I'm interested in checking this one.
New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.
al h.
edited to add that perhaps the canadian nickels that you mentioned as sticking to the magnet were in fact issues which were actually nickel plated steel.
Kranky. talk to your local high school chemisty teacher. It isn't a difficult procedure and he will have the equipment. If you can't find anyone else and you are willing to send it, I can run the test for you.
If you are serious about this coin, you could send it to PCGS and arrange for them to do an analysis of the composition. I had a pattern tested a couple of years ago. It cost me about $100 or so. Unfortunately I arranged this through Rick Montgomery, so I have no idea how to go about arranging this nowadays.
Mark
New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.
How's the book coming? I'd like to increase your profit, also!
Mark
<< <i>Do you think you have a Type1 that is silver? >>
Not really, since I know the chances are essentially zero. But I have always been pretty good at spotting war nickels by color, and when I saw this one I was sure it was silver. The mintmark says it's not. I'm sure it's nothing special, but I just have to make sure.
New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.
I'm finding all the metallurgical info is rather interesting and educational.
Collector since 1976. On the CU forums here since 2001.
<< <i>What is the mintmark? When the mint was testing the war composition they struck up a few pieces using 1942-S dies with the small mintmark by the side of Monticello. As far as I know only one of those test pieces is known to exist today. >>
It's a D.
New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.
A known war nickel had a density of 7.79/cm^3.
The suspect nickel had a density of 7.39/cm^3.
Therefore, I'm concluding the suspect nickel is pre-war composition. I've never seen a "regular" nickel that had the same "look" as a war nickel.
New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.
Charlie