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How to determine if a 1942 nickel is T1 or T2 (mintmark doesn't count) - UPDATED

krankykranky Posts: 8,709 ✭✭✭
I think the two types each weigh 5 grams (don't have my Redbook, so if that's not correct someone please advise). And I remember reading somewhere that both types have the same specific gravity.

So how can someone determine if there was a wrong planchet error?

Update below.

New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.

Comments

  • GilbertGilbert Posts: 1,533 ✭✭✭
    The so-called "ring test?" It's the only thing I've found so far.
    Gilbert
  • Conder101Conder101 Posts: 10,536
    Weights are the same but the specific gravities are different. The copper nickel version has a SG of 8.92 The silver composition has a SG of 9.25
  • krankykranky Posts: 8,709 ✭✭✭
    Thanks, Conder! Now all I need to do is find a place to have a specific gravity test done. image

    The ring test doesn't work for me, Gilbert. Even with known examples of each type I can't tell the difference.

    New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.

  • lordmarcovanlordmarcovan Posts: 44,210 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Usually the color's a dead giveaway for me.

    Collector since 1976. On the CU forums here since 2001.

  • keetskeets Posts: 25,351 ✭✭✭✭✭
    .......and isn't nickel slightly magnetic!!!??

    al h.image
  • lordmarcovanlordmarcovan Posts: 44,210 ✭✭✭✭✭
    No, only Canadian nickel. Nickel ore mined elsewhere isn't, as I understand it. Or maybe it is, but U.S. "nickel" coins are mostly copper, so they don't stick to a magnet like many Canadian 5-cent pieces will.

    Collector since 1976. On the CU forums here since 2001.

  • krankykranky Posts: 8,709 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Usually the color's a dead giveaway for me. >>



    That's precisely why I'm interested in checking this one. image

    New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.

  • keetskeets Posts: 25,351 ✭✭✭✭✭
    while they might not stick, if you use a magnet with enough pull there should be a slight attraction. i really don't think the location of the ore when it's mined is a determinant here, it's a physical property of the metal.

    al h.image

    edited to add that perhaps the canadian nickels that you mentioned as sticking to the magnet were in fact issues which were actually nickel plated steel.
  • Conder101Conder101 Posts: 10,536
    Nickel is magnetic but in alloys of less than I believe 70% nickel it is no longer attracted to the typical magnet. If you can create a stronger manetic field it will stll react at lower concentrations but at very high field levels other materials not normally considered to be magnetic will start responding to the fields as well. (Aluminum for example is REPELLED by strong magnetic fields.) The reason Canadian five cent pieces are magnetic is because except for the 1983 - 98 issues they have been made ov either pure nickel, or plated steel. (1983 - 98 were made of the same 75% copper 25% nickel alloy as our five cent pieces.)

    Kranky. talk to your local high school chemisty teacher. It isn't a difficult procedure and he will have the equipment. If you can't find anyone else and you are willing to send it, I can run the test for you.
  • MarkMark Posts: 3,604 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Kranky:

    If you are serious about this coin, you could send it to PCGS and arrange for them to do an analysis of the composition. I had a pattern tested a couple of years ago. It cost me about $100 or so. Unfortunately I arranged this through Rick Montgomery, so I have no idea how to go about arranging this nowadays.

    Mark
    Mark


  • Conder101Conder101 Posts: 10,536
    I wouldn't spend the money having it authenticated or the even more expensive composition analysis done until after the specific gravity test came back showing a result of at least 9.1 I mean why spend $100 or more for a composition analysis if a specific gravity would show it as 8.9 and that it can't possibly be a silver war composition planchet. Do the cheap and easy test first. Especially when it has the potential to show that the expensive test is unneeded.
  • krankykranky Posts: 8,709 ✭✭✭
    That's my plan. I have a co-worker whose wife is a teacher and she'll get someone to do the SG test.

    New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.

  • MarkMark Posts: 3,604 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Oh thanks Conder, here I was trying to increase CLCT's profit and you go and blow it all!!!image

    How's the book coming? I'd like to increase your profit, also!image

    Mark
    Mark


  • clackamasclackamas Posts: 5,615
    They will both sound different as well, usually its not a problem telling them apart. Do you think you have a Type1 that is silver?
  • krankykranky Posts: 8,709 ✭✭✭


    << <i>Do you think you have a Type1 that is silver? >>



    Not really, since I know the chances are essentially zero. But I have always been pretty good at spotting war nickels by color, and when I saw this one I was sure it was silver. The mintmark says it's not. I'm sure it's nothing special, but I just have to make sure. image

    New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.

  • Conder101Conder101 Posts: 10,536
    What is the mintmark? When the mint was testing the war composition they struck up a few pieces using 1942-S dies with the small mintmark by the side of Monticello. As far as I know only one of those test pieces is known to exist today.
  • lordmarcovanlordmarcovan Posts: 44,210 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I knew about the nickel-plated steel Canadian 5c pieces, but I've noticed other world coin types struck in nickel alloys are magnetic, like the Bahamian 25-cent pieces with the catboat on the reverse.

    I'm finding all the metallurgical info is rather interesting and educational.

    Collector since 1976. On the CU forums here since 2001.

  • krankykranky Posts: 8,709 ✭✭✭


    << <i>What is the mintmark? When the mint was testing the war composition they struck up a few pieces using 1942-S dies with the small mintmark by the side of Monticello. As far as I know only one of those test pieces is known to exist today. >>



    It's a D.

    New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.

  • krankykranky Posts: 8,709 ✭✭✭
    A co-worker's wife is a high school teacher and got a chemistry teacher to do a specific gravity test. He knew the equipment wouldn't be very accurate for an object as small as a nickel but I am assuming the relative difference in the numbers makes them usable.

    A known war nickel had a density of 7.79/cm^3.
    The suspect nickel had a density of 7.39/cm^3.

    Therefore, I'm concluding the suspect nickel is pre-war composition. I've never seen a "regular" nickel that had the same "look" as a war nickel.

    New collectors, please educate yourself before spending money on coins; there are people who believe that using numismatic knowledge to rip the naïve is what this hobby is all about.

  • moosesrmoosesr Posts: 1,966 ✭✭✭
    I think you might be able to use a metal detector, but I have not tried it. The more expensive models would probably indicate a silver coin for the type 2 nickel. I don't have any type 2 nickels or I would try it with my Fisher CZ7aPro detector. You could post the question on the metal detecting forum and see if someone over there could do a test for you.

    Charlie

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