@MorganFanatic said:
I go to a lot of shows and never ever pay asking price. I collect Morgan Dollars so there are always many dealers to choose from. I usually offer 85-90 % of asking price and if the offer is declined i move on,no harm no foul.
I find i have the best luck with my offers late in the day,on the last day of the show
Good to know. If I raise my prices by 20%, I'll accept your offer and you'll happily pay more than my asking price.
Good to know! If your prices are 20% higher than the other tables i'll wish you well and i'll hope you will enjoy keeping them.
Like i said I collect Morgan Dollars which are very plentiful and if you dont want to sell i'll find someone who does. I encounter dealers with your attitude every so often,and i am happy to keep my cash in my pocket .
People that pay full asking price for ANYTHING have more money than sense
Lmao. I went to the grocery store. I couldn't buy anything. They wouldn't negotiate.
There is no law or even reason for me to price my coins at one cent now than I want for them. That also means "full asking price" would be the only price. Your ASSUMING that all asking prices are intended as the opening offer in a negotiation. That need not be true.
People who think EVERYTHING is open to negotiation have less sense than money.
Sir,you are incorrect on grocery stores not negotiating: Stores issue coupons with lower prices,and also store brands are always cheaper than name brands. That my fine friend is indeed negotiating.
I seem to have struck a nerve with you ,sorry you are triggered
however i stand by my statement that people who are too timid to negotiate have more money than sense and
I laugh at the sad sacks who overpay.
I was very clear in my method of negotiating and as i said in an earlier post when i find someone such as yourself who gets their knickers twisted over someone daring to ask for a negotiation i simply smile and move on. I have absolutely no assumptions over anything,but I'm certain some dealers will negotiate and I find those that would like to make some money.
It's very a simple concept ,its nothing to be offended by and I'm frankly surprised at your level of vitriol over such a small matter.
LMFAO. A coupon is not a negotiation. A sale is not a negotiation. A sitore brand is not a negotiation. It's just a different fixed price.
I can't even believe I have to post this:
Thank you oh so much for taking time from your day to make me laugh,
At any rate you guys keep paying asking prices on coins whilst i'll keep making sensible offers and will use the money i save from negotiating,haggling,barganing or whatever you wish to call it to purchase extra coins.
I find it more than a little funny that people pay full boat i have to say
One seller’s “full boat” price is often less than another’s “negotiated” one. The price paid is what counts, not the percentage off of the starting price.
I'm not making an offer on something that is priced too high. However if i see what i want at a more reasonable i have zero problems offering 85-90% of the asking price.
I'm very amused that so many dealers on here are offended by the mere thought of someone offering a price lower than what they are asking.There is a dealer in my area that has an Ebay storefront,yet asks the same price at the shows. I offer him what he would get on Ebay minus the sellers fee and shipping. He is Usually receptive in the last couple of hours on the last day of the show.
There is nothing in this world thats worth Full Boat
I haven’t seen where a lot of dealers on here are offended “by the mere thought of someone offering a price lower than what they are asking”. In fact, I think the majority of them expect and accept it as part of doing business.
I and many others disagree with your statement that “there is nothing in this world that is worth Full Boat”. That is, unless you use the term “Full Boat” to mean something higher than the full asking price. Countless items in this world are worth their full asking price or more, regardless of whether I, you or someone else is aware of it.
Nothing in this world be it coins,cars,guitars,homes etc is worth full boat asking price. NOTHING.
There is always room for negotiating, and i will find those willing to negotiate. Like i have said several times in this threat and I thnik it bears it bears repeating: Those who do pay full price have more money than sense.
How do you define “full boat” asking price? If you use the term synonymously with a non-discounted asking price, your absolute, all encompassing assertions don’t make sense. If you use it to mean something else, the rest of us don’t know what it represents.
I have been very clear on what Full Boat is,but since i'm in an exceptionally good mood for you I will repeat it: Its a term used to indicate full asking price.
I guess I will have to explain that in life i NEVER pay full asking price for something an individual is selling,and have nothing but laughter at those who either are scared to negotiate, or are afraid of " offending" someone by offering a lower price or asking fora discount.
For those who sell items and get " offended" by someone wanting to negotiate thats a sign of weakness. The reason i say this is because When one lets one's emotions dictate business dealings that individual is clearly not in control and is a weak person
How are your relationships in your business life? Are you anyone’s first call?
Relationships are everything. If you treat every interaction as a one-time transaction your relationships will significantly suffer.
If you’ve always had this attitude and engaged in only transactional behavior you may not even realize what you are missing.
@MasonG said:
There was a dealer I used to buy a lot from at Long Beach. Going through boxes one trip, I noticed that an overdate had been overlooked and priced as a normal variety. I let him know about it and said I'd still like to buy it and could he give me a price (probably a $150-$200 difference). He told me I could have it at the marked price. He normally gave me a discount on my purchases, on this coin I said that wasn't necessary.
Since that time, he's offered me pricing on coins that have saved me thousands of dollars. Would I have gotten the same pricing if I hadn't insisted on no discount for the overdate? I don't know.
I'm told that means you have more money than sense
Well, that depends.
I learned something from that dealer when talking to him about his business. He sold world coins exclusively, no shop- everything through his website and collector contacts. There was another dealer nearby with a shop who dealt in US coins only. Occasionally, the US guy would call him up and tell him he had a box of world coins he'd accumulated in various deals. The world coin guy would price them and make an offer, with the goal being to buy the entire lot even if there wasn't much of interest. I asked him why he'd buy coins he didn't really want and he told me the US guy sometimes did have really nice stuff for sale and he didn't want him even thinking about looking for another buyer.
For my eBay store, I buy from the local coin shop now and then (world coins only, no US) and try to use this approach (make the deal if at all possible) when he calls me about something he gets in that he thinks I might be interested in. Last fall, he called me about a gold piece that was priced a little above melt at $2500. That's quite a bit more than I typically spend for an individual coin but it was a really nice example and I bought it at the marked price (that's "full boat", I'm told). If I'd asked for a discount on the $2500, the answer would have almost certainly been "No."
I got it graded by PCGS and sold it a couple of months ago for $5700. Seems sensible.
Seems sensible to me, too. But since you didn’t negotiate to buy the coin for below the “full boat”asking price, it couldn’t have been worth what you paid for it. No exceptions allowed! 😉
Ok then- I stand corrected.
Rhetorical question: Dealers are criticized when they try to get more dollars out of a sale, so why are buyers considered shrewd when they try to pay fewer?
Because dealers are evil and buyers are pure. LOL. (Even though most people end up being both buyers and sellers at some point.)
All dealers that I know occasionally buy things they don't want to, from each other and off the street. The point is to build long-term relationships and not burn a bridge over a few bucks. A now deceased dealer-friend of mine used to call it the "Ursula tax" at the LCS that we both frequented. Every dealer she sold to would occasionally get an "Ursula special", a bunch of stuff that was hard to move at the price offered. We all bought it to preserve access to the better deals.
There were a few vest pocket type dealers who kept trying to get the same deals that we got. They never got them because they only wanted to buy the good stuff. Ursula knew better than to sell the good stuff from an estate and then have to hustle to sell the rest. She sold the entire thing. So, there were three of us who got to buy entire estates because we didn't quibble or try to skim the better material.
Of course, the equation is different for "collectors" who only buy a certain series or limited selection of material. You will always get a better price on the whole box. And, no matter what our friend says, you will tend to pay more if you haggle too much because you are wasting the dealer's time while shaving his profits. Experienced sellers actually have to either build the haggle into their pricing structure or hold firm on the prices. The idea that "full boat" is always the wrong price is based on the faulty assumption that all prices have built in wiggle room. Some do, some don't.
I had a $4.99 item on eBay. Guy asked for my "best price". I sent him a $4.25 offer. He countered me at $3.99 I declined.
He came back and said, "if you send me the $4.25 offer, I'll take it."
I said, "sorry, that expired."
He said, "guess I learned a lesson."
I never asked what the lesson was. It might have been that I was an a-hole not worth dealing with. LOL. But the lesson I was trying to send was that my "best offer" is my "best offer" and it's not worth my time to negotiate with you over 26 cents. Some people just can't help themselves - like the poster on this thread - they HAVE to negotiate because they think it's a game and that's how you "win". And maybe they do. But sometimes they also lose, because they've created the game themselves.
I often end up selling coins for more than my minimum because I have to build in room for the haggler, and only I know how much room there is. So, while our friend is chuckling, what I said is true. If he asks for 10-15% off from me at a show, I'll take it and I WIN. Why? Because I jacked the price up 20-25% to leave room for haggling on most coins. It would be much easier for everyone if it worked like retail: pay the asking price when it suits you. But, some people prefer the game.
I think this approach works - to a point. If I walk up to a table or encounter a dealer site and every single coin is priced 25% over recent comps (especially on common material or bullion), I keep walking. I assume the dealer has unreasonable expectations.
Excellent post, @jmlanzaf, good points supported by real examples.
This was especially enlightening:
** you will tend to pay more if you haggle too much because you are wasting the dealer's time while shaving his profits. Experienced sellers actually have to either build the haggle into their pricing structure or hold firm on the prices. The idea that "full boat" is always the wrong price is based on the faulty assumption that all prices have built in wiggle room. Some do, some don't.**
Generally one can just tell hagglers in response to their offer “that’s the lowest the consignor will go.” If they are getting to you that’s a good playcall. Furthermore if negotiating don’t let them talk you way down. I would not give them more than 5 or 10 pct off.
You know what you need for your material in order to have satisfactory positive margin so just execute your playbook accordingly.
@Cougar1978 said:
Generally one can just tell hagglers in response to their offer “that’s the lowest the consignor will go.” If they are getting to you that’s a good playcall. Furthermore if negotiating don’t let them talk you way down. I would not give them more than 5 or 10 pct off.
You know what you need for your material in order to have satisfactory positive margin so just execute your playbook accordingly.
If the coin’s not consigned, you’re suggesting lying - a very poor “playcall”.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
@Cougar1978 said:
Generally one can just tell hagglers in response to their offer “that’s the lowest the consignor will go.” If they are getting to you that’s a good playcall. Furthermore if negotiating don’t let them talk you way down. I would not give them more than 5 or 10 pct off.
You know what you need for your material in order to have satisfactory positive margin so just execute your playbook accordingly.
If the coin’s not consigned, you’re suggesting lying - a very poor “playcall”.
Replace consignor with owner.
DPOTD-3 'Emancipate yourselves from mental slavery'
@MasonG said:
There was a dealer I used to buy a lot from at Long Beach. Going through boxes one trip, I noticed that an overdate had been overlooked and priced as a normal variety. I let him know about it and said I'd still like to buy it and could he give me a price (probably a $150-$200 difference). He told me I could have it at the marked price. He normally gave me a discount on my purchases, on this coin I said that wasn't necessary.
Since that time, he's offered me pricing on coins that have saved me thousands of dollars. Would I have gotten the same pricing if I hadn't insisted on no discount for the overdate? I don't know.
I'm told that means you have more money than sense
Well, that depends.
I learned something from that dealer when talking to him about his business. He sold world coins exclusively, no shop- everything through his website and collector contacts. There was another dealer nearby with a shop who dealt in US coins only. Occasionally, the US guy would call him up and tell him he had a box of world coins he'd accumulated in various deals. The world coin guy would price them and make an offer, with the goal being to buy the entire lot even if there wasn't much of interest. I asked him why he'd buy coins he didn't really want and he told me the US guy sometimes did have really nice stuff for sale and he didn't want him even thinking about looking for another buyer.
For my eBay store, I buy from the local coin shop now and then (world coins only, no US) and try to use this approach (make the deal if at all possible) when he calls me about something he gets in that he thinks I might be interested in. Last fall, he called me about a gold piece that was priced a little above melt at $2500. That's quite a bit more than I typically spend for an individual coin but it was a really nice example and I bought it at the marked price (that's "full boat", I'm told). If I'd asked for a discount on the $2500, the answer would have almost certainly been "No."
I got it graded by PCGS and sold it a couple of months ago for $5700. Seems sensible.
Seems sensible to me, too. But since you didn’t negotiate to buy the coin for below the “full boat”asking price, it couldn’t have been worth what you paid for it. No exceptions allowed! 😉
Ok then- I stand corrected.
Rhetorical question: Dealers are criticized when they try to get more dollars out of a sale, so why are buyers considered shrewd when they try to pay fewer?
Because dealers are evil and buyers are pure. LOL. (Even though most people end up being both buyers and sellers at some point.)
All dealers that I know occasionally buy things they don't want to, from each other and off the street. The point is to build long-term relationships and not burn a bridge over a few bucks. A now deceased dealer-friend of mine used to call it the "Ursula tax" at the LCS that we both frequented. Every dealer she sold to would occasionally get an "Ursula special", a bunch of stuff that was hard to move at the price offered. We all bought it to preserve access to the better deals.
There were a few vest pocket type dealers who kept trying to get the same deals that we got. They never got them because they only wanted to buy the good stuff. Ursula knew better than to sell the good stuff from an estate and then have to hustle to sell the rest. She sold the entire thing. So, there were three of us who got to buy entire estates because we didn't quibble or try to skim the better material.
Of course, the equation is different for "collectors" who only buy a certain series or limited selection of material. You will always get a better price on the whole box. And, no matter what our friend says, you will tend to pay more if you haggle too much because you are wasting the dealer's time while shaving his profits. Experienced sellers actually have to either build the haggle into their pricing structure or hold firm on the prices. The idea that "full boat" is always the wrong price is based on the faulty assumption that all prices have built in wiggle room. Some do, some don't.
I had a $4.99 item on eBay. Guy asked for my "best price". I sent him a $4.25 offer. He countered me at $3.99 I declined.
He came back and said, "if you send me the $4.25 offer, I'll take it."
I said, "sorry, that expired."
He said, "guess I learned a lesson."
I never asked what the lesson was. It might have been that I was an a-hole not worth dealing with. LOL. But the lesson I was trying to send was that my "best offer" is my "best offer" and it's not worth my time to negotiate with you over 26 cents. Some people just can't help themselves - like the poster on this thread - they HAVE to negotiate because they think it's a game and that's how you "win". And maybe they do. But sometimes they also lose, because they've created the game themselves.
I often end up selling coins for more than my minimum because I have to build in room for the haggler, and only I know how much room there is. So, while our friend is chuckling, what I said is true. If he asks for 10-15% off from me at a show, I'll take it and I WIN. Why? Because I jacked the price up 20-25% to leave room for haggling on most coins. It would be much easier for everyone if it worked like retail: pay the asking price when it suits you. But, some people prefer the game.
I think this approach works - to a point. If I walk up to a table or encounter a dealer site and every single coin is priced 25% over recent comps (especially on common material or bullion), I keep walking. I assume the dealer has unreasonable expectations.
I agree. Those are the items that have to be priced with a non-negotiable price. This is why I said that the idea that all items have wiggle room (haggle room) is a fallacy.
By the way, another fallacy is that the eBay price has to be higher than the show price. While it's true that eBay has an incremental pricing structure and a show doesn't, it's not necessarily true that it is overall cheaper to sell at a show than on ebay.
On ebay, I'll pay 9% incremental cost+ shipping. Call it 10% for simplicity. If I have to travel to a 2 day show and stay overnight with meals, the costs can be $500 to $1000. That means I hand to do $5000 to $10000 to match the 10% incremental cost of ebay. And I also have to man the table for 2 days and so I'm counting my time as $0. If is quite possible that my costs for a show might be 20% or more compared to 10% at ebay.
Now, the incremental cost is zero, so if the show is slow I can maybe sell at 10% below the eBay price to raise money. But I'm not making any more money at that number.
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
@Cougar1978 said:
Generally one can just tell hagglers in response to their offer “that’s the lowest the consignor will go.” If they are getting to you that’s a good playcall. Furthermore if negotiating don’t let them talk you way down. I would not give them more than 5 or 10 pct off.
You know what you need for your material in order to have satisfactory positive margin so just execute your playbook accordingly.
If the coin’s not consigned, you’re suggesting lying - a very poor “playcall”.
Replace consignor with owner.
To me, that wouldn’t be lying, but it would be misleading. I prefer honesty, transparency and simplicity:
“That’s the least I’m willing to take for the coin.”
I thought about writing “I’m sorry, but that’s the least I’m willing to take for the coin.” Bit, if someone has already countered my quoted price and then continues to haggle, I wouldn’t be sorry that I wasn’t willing to take less for the coin. 😉
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
@Cougar1978 said:
Generally one can just tell hagglers in response to their offer “that’s the lowest the consignor will go.” If they are getting to you that’s a good playcall. Furthermore if negotiating don’t let them talk you way down. I would not give them more than 5 or 10 pct off.
You know what you need for your material in order to have satisfactory positive margin so just execute your playbook accordingly.
If the coin’s not consigned, you’re suggesting lying - a very poor “playcall”.
Replace consignor with owner.
To me, that wouldn’t be lying, but it would be misleading. I prefer honesty, transparency and simplicity:
“That’s the least I’m willing to take for the coin.”
I thought about writing “I’m sorry, but that’s the least I’m willing to take for the coin.” Bit, if someone has already countered my quoted price and then continues to haggle, I wouldn’t be sorry that I wasn’t willing to take less for the coin. 😉
"I prefer honesty, transparency and simplicity." What a concept! It is sad that some dealers, most obviously our resident ethically challenged dealer, can't embrace such a standard and views his potential customers with hostility. I think one of the best learning objectives for collectors is to know what dealers are trustworthy and fair. They deserve your business.
Seated Half Society member #38
"She comes out of the sun in a silk dress, running like a water color in the rain...."
If he owns the coin, he’s not the consignor. So I reject your suggestion.😬
Au contraire, one entity can be both.
Dana Mecum sold a personal car at his auction last year.
(he is the owner and the company is the consignor, he own the company, though)
Cougar sold a from his table at the show.
Ghost Cougar pretends to be the owner, and Cougar is the consignor.
If he owns the coin, he’s not the consignor. So I reject your suggestion.😬
Au contraire, one entity can be both.
Dana Mecum sold a personal car at his auction last year.
(he is the owner and the company is the consignor, he own the company, though)
Cougar sold a from his table at the show.
Ghost Cougar pretends to be the owner, and Cougar is the consignor.
That’s a different set of facts. And, while it was a decent try, I still reject your suggestion.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
@MFeld said:
That’s a different set of facts. And, while it was a decent try, I still reject your suggestion.
What prevents an owner from being a consignor?
Madame T. sells her own used clothes at the consignment shop.
Despite the semantic relationship between owner and consignor, disingenuous means insincere.
I didn’t say that an owner couldn’t be a consignor. But rather, that’s a different situation than a dealer offering his inventory at a show and lying about a consignor if/when there isn’t one.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
I didn’t say that an owner couldn’t be a consignor. But rather, that’s a different situation than a dealer offering his inventory at a show and lying about a consignor if/when there isn’t one.
Yeah, Ghost Cougar is a figment, but Cougar hints that he is a real consignor. Why say it when “no” suffices?
I don’t have to explain that. It’s all fun and games. That play forces them to leave or buy. Usually I just say that’s the best I can do. Or take a reasonable offer. I don’t like hagglers, lowballers….
There’s a monthly coin show I occasionally attend in So. Ca. and most of the so called “dealers” are trying to keep themselves busy and hopefully make a few dollars. I see the same overpriced coins with a new layer of dust every time I’m there.
I know what you're talking about. Reading through this thread made me think about an interaction I had a couple months ago at a So Cal show. Dealer I've seen at several shows is offering an NGC 1987 Silver Eagle in MS-70 for sale. CPG retail price is $650, and there are at least 3-4 identical examples on Ebay which range from either $50 below or $50-$75 above that price. This dealer had his priced at $900. I didn't haggle, I didn't try to negotiate a lower price, I just said I would consider it and moved on. He got agitated and insisted his price was fair and he pulled up some App on his phone I've never seen before to display how that was the retail price. OK, buddy. A couple years ago he was trying to sell a 1962 Franklin PF-69 Cam for $850 and would not budge off that price either.
@Cougar1978 said:
I don’t have to explain that. It’s all fun and games. That play forces them to leave or buy. Usually I just say that’s the best I can do. Or take a reasonable offer. I don’t like hagglers, lowballers….
I get it, it’s an easy out that says “it’s not my job”. It’s probably useful when you’re tired.
@Cougar1978 said:
I don’t see much chance of him getting $900. Perhaps it’s a part of material he is pricing ahead of the market for big silver run up he’s banking on.
Let’s see…@jcc1876 indicated that a few are available on eBay for roughly $600 to $725. So maybe the dealer asking $900 will get his price if 1) silver increases by $175.00 to $300.00 per ounce and 2) the coins don’t lose any of their premium as a result of the huge move in silver. 😄
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
@Cougar1978 said:
I don’t see much chance of him getting $900. Perhaps it’s a part of material he is pricing ahead of the market for big silver run up he’s banking on.
To $900 per ounce? LMFAO
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
@MorganFanatic said:
I go to a lot of shows and never ever pay asking price. I collect Morgan Dollars so there are always many dealers to choose from. I usually offer 85-90 % of asking price and if the offer is declined i move on,no harm no foul.
I find i have the best luck with my offers late in the day,on the last day of the show
Good to know. If I raise my prices by 20%, I'll accept your offer and you'll happily pay more than my asking price.
Good to know! If your prices are 20% higher than the other tables i'll wish you well and i'll hope you will enjoy keeping them.
Like i said I collect Morgan Dollars which are very plentiful and if you dont want to sell i'll find someone who does. I encounter dealers with your attitude every so often,and i am happy to keep my cash in my pocket .
People that pay full asking price for ANYTHING have more money than sense
Lmao. I went to the grocery store. I couldn't buy anything. They wouldn't negotiate.
There is no law or even reason for me to price my coins at one cent now than I want for them. That also means "full asking price" would be the only price. Your ASSUMING that all asking prices are intended as the opening offer in a negotiation. That need not be true.
People who think EVERYTHING is open to negotiation have less sense than money.
Sir,you are incorrect on grocery stores not negotiating: Stores issue coupons with lower prices,and also store brands are always cheaper than name brands. That my fine friend is indeed negotiating.
I seem to have struck a nerve with you ,sorry you are triggered
however i stand by my statement that people who are too timid to negotiate have more money than sense and
I laugh at the sad sacks who overpay.
I was very clear in my method of negotiating and as i said in an earlier post when i find someone such as yourself who gets their knickers twisted over someone daring to ask for a negotiation i simply smile and move on. I have absolutely no assumptions over anything,but I'm certain some dealers will negotiate and I find those that would like to make some money.
It's very a simple concept ,its nothing to be offended by and I'm frankly surprised at your level of vitriol over such a small matter.
LMFAO. A coupon is not a negotiation. A sale is not a negotiation. A sitore brand is not a negotiation. It's just a different fixed price.
I can't even believe I have to post this:
Thank you oh so much for taking time from your day to make me laugh,
At any rate you guys keep paying asking prices on coins whilst i'll keep making sensible offers and will use the money i save from negotiating,haggling,barganing or whatever you wish to call it to purchase extra coins.
I find it more than a little funny that people pay full boat i have to say
One seller’s “full boat” price is often less than another’s “negotiated” one. The price paid is what counts, not the percentage off of the starting price.
I'm not making an offer on something that is priced too high. However if i see what i want at a more reasonable i have zero problems offering 85-90% of the asking price.
I'm very amused that so many dealers on here are offended by the mere thought of someone offering a price lower than what they are asking.There is a dealer in my area that has an Ebay storefront,yet asks the same price at the shows. I offer him what he would get on Ebay minus the sellers fee and shipping. He is Usually receptive in the last couple of hours on the last day of the show.
There is nothing in this world thats worth Full Boat
I haven’t seen where a lot of dealers on here are offended “by the mere thought of someone offering a price lower than what they are asking”. In fact, I think the majority of them expect and accept it as part of doing business.
I and many others disagree with your statement that “there is nothing in this world that is worth Full Boat”. That is, unless you use the term “Full Boat” to mean something higher than the full asking price. Countless items in this world are worth their full asking price or more, regardless of whether I, you or someone else is aware of it.
Nothing in this world be it coins,cars,guitars,homes etc is worth full boat asking price. NOTHING.
There is always room for negotiating, and i will find those willing to negotiate. Like i have said several times in this threat and I thnik it bears it bears repeating: Those who do pay full price have more money than sense.
How do you define “full boat” asking price? If you use the term synonymously with a non-discounted asking price, your absolute, all encompassing assertions don’t make sense. If you use it to mean something else, the rest of us don’t know what it represents.
I have been very clear on what Full Boat is,but since i'm in an exceptionally good mood for you I will repeat it: Its a term used to indicate full asking price.
I guess I will have to explain that in life i NEVER pay full asking price for something an individual is selling,and have nothing but laughter at those who either are scared to negotiate, or are afraid of " offending" someone by offering a lower price or asking fora discount.
For those who sell items and get " offended" by someone wanting to negotiate thats a sign of weakness. The reason i say this is because When one lets one's emotions dictate business dealings that individual is clearly not in control and is a weak person
How are your relationships in your business life? Are you anyone’s first call?
Relationships are everything. If you treat every interaction as a one-time transaction your relationships will significantly suffer.
If you’ve always had this attitude and engaged in only transactional behavior you may not even realize what you are missing.
I dont really discuss my personal life online,but yes i am many people's first call. I retired at the tender age of 55,and ever since have used music to supplement my pension. I play and sing in three working bands as well as teaching guitar both in person and via zoom. I stay booked as much as I wish to work,so yes i'm definitely First Call.
As far as relationships with dealers I have a select who text me when new Morgans that I may wish to purchase arrive. I'm not a tire kicker or a time waster and these gentlemen know I have a generous amount of disposable income each month and are quite eager for my business.
I appreciate your sentiments but I am truly not missing out on anything
@MorganFanatic said:
I go to a lot of shows and never ever pay asking price. I collect Morgan Dollars so there are always many dealers to choose from. I usually offer 85-90 % of asking price and if the offer is declined i move on,no harm no foul.
I find i have the best luck with my offers late in the day,on the last day of the show
Good to know. If I raise my prices by 20%, I'll accept your offer and you'll happily pay more than my asking price.
Good to know! If your prices are 20% higher than the other tables i'll wish you well and i'll hope you will enjoy keeping them.
Like i said I collect Morgan Dollars which are very plentiful and if you dont want to sell i'll find someone who does. I encounter dealers with your attitude every so often,and i am happy to keep my cash in my pocket .
People that pay full asking price for ANYTHING have more money than sense
Lmao. I went to the grocery store. I couldn't buy anything. They wouldn't negotiate.
There is no law or even reason for me to price my coins at one cent now than I want for them. That also means "full asking price" would be the only price. Your ASSUMING that all asking prices are intended as the opening offer in a negotiation. That need not be true.
People who think EVERYTHING is open to negotiation have less sense than money.
Sir,you are incorrect on grocery stores not negotiating: Stores issue coupons with lower prices,and also store brands are always cheaper than name brands. That my fine friend is indeed negotiating.
I seem to have struck a nerve with you ,sorry you are triggered
however i stand by my statement that people who are too timid to negotiate have more money than sense and
I laugh at the sad sacks who overpay.
I was very clear in my method of negotiating and as i said in an earlier post when i find someone such as yourself who gets their knickers twisted over someone daring to ask for a negotiation i simply smile and move on. I have absolutely no assumptions over anything,but I'm certain some dealers will negotiate and I find those that would like to make some money.
It's very a simple concept ,its nothing to be offended by and I'm frankly surprised at your level of vitriol over such a small matter.
LMFAO. A coupon is not a negotiation. A sale is not a negotiation. A sitore brand is not a negotiation. It's just a different fixed price.
I can't even believe I have to post this:
Thank you oh so much for taking time from your day to make me laugh,
At any rate you guys keep paying asking prices on coins whilst i'll keep making sensible offers and will use the money i save from negotiating,haggling,barganing or whatever you wish to call it to purchase extra coins.
I find it more than a little funny that people pay full boat i have to say
One seller’s “full boat” price is often less than another’s “negotiated” one. The price paid is what counts, not the percentage off of the starting price.
I'm not making an offer on something that is priced too high. However if i see what i want at a more reasonable i have zero problems offering 85-90% of the asking price.
I'm very amused that so many dealers on here are offended by the mere thought of someone offering a price lower than what they are asking.There is a dealer in my area that has an Ebay storefront,yet asks the same price at the shows. I offer him what he would get on Ebay minus the sellers fee and shipping. He is Usually receptive in the last couple of hours on the last day of the show.
There is nothing in this world thats worth Full Boat
I haven’t seen where a lot of dealers on here are offended “by the mere thought of someone offering a price lower than what they are asking”. In fact, I think the majority of them expect and accept it as part of doing business.
I and many others disagree with your statement that “there is nothing in this world that is worth Full Boat”. That is, unless you use the term “Full Boat” to mean something higher than the full asking price. Countless items in this world are worth their full asking price or more, regardless of whether I, you or someone else is aware of it.
Nothing in this world be it coins,cars,guitars,homes etc is worth full boat asking price. NOTHING.
There is always room for negotiating, and i will find those willing to negotiate. Like i have said several times in this threat and I thnik it bears it bears repeating: Those who do pay full price have more money than sense.
How do you define “full boat” asking price? If you use the term synonymously with a non-discounted asking price, your absolute, all encompassing assertions don’t make sense. If you use it to mean something else, the rest of us don’t know what it represents.
I have been very clear on what Full Boat is,but since i'm in an exceptionally good mood for you I will repeat it: Its a term used to indicate full asking price.
I guess I will have to explain that in life i NEVER pay full asking price for something an individual is selling,and have nothing but laughter at those who either are scared to negotiate, or are afraid of " offending" someone by offering a lower price or asking fora discount.
For those who sell items and get " offended" by someone wanting to negotiate thats a sign of weakness. The reason i say this is because When one lets one's emotions dictate business dealings that individual is clearly not in control and is a weak person
You sound like a hall of fame level exasperating person. What an absolutely exhausting way of going through the world.
We are talking about parting with hard earned money, and to quote a famous man A Fool and His Money are Soon Parted.
I dont have time for emotions, or worrying about stepping on someone's toes because I dare offer less than asking price.If i encounter pushback from my offer I smile and move on. I cant understand why so many here let their emotions cloud their judgement when it comes to negotiating
@MasonG said:
I don't follow slabbed bullion coins- is melt value relevant to graded MS70 pieces?
You bet it is. Melt is a part of the value but many have strong numismatic value especially the scarcer dates. Refer to CDN CPG for that issue. The graded MS 70 Pieces worth melt then some.
Mexico Libertads very much in demand. Take look at their CPG. Many banked big time on them when that silver huge spike hit. Many banked at double bubble, triple dipper. Those coins super for investment.
A friend of mine once got a really good deal from a dealer. The next time he did business with said dealer, the dealer was very rigid and high in his pricing. My friend told me he thought that the dealer was trying to ‘even things up’ with him. I told him it was possible. It’s food for thought, anyway.
Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍
@MasonG said:
I don't follow slabbed bullion coins- is melt value relevant to graded MS70 pieces?
You bet it is. Melt is a part of the value but many have strong numismatic value especially the scarcer dates. Refer to CDN CPG for that issue. The graded MS 70 Pieces worth melt then some.
Except that the premium tends to decrease as the bullion value increases. So, for silver value to push the price to $900, you'd need silver pretty close to $900
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
CACG coins that are Witter Brick trade at a premium. Manny hagglers don’t know how to grade or price coins. They may try to talk you down on PQ / nicer material especially plus coins. Don’t give away your nice stuff.
Nothing in this world be it coins,cars,guitars,homes etc is worth full boat asking price. NOTHING.
There is always room for negotiating, and i will find those willing to negotiate. Like i have said several times in this threat and I thnik it bears it bears repeating: Those who do pay full price have more money than sense.
But will you end up with the best, pq coins? Probably not…………. Dreck usually costs less than a full boat, PQ - Full Boat plus extra…………….
As a collector, if the coin is lower cost under $20/$25 I either buy it or pass on it.
If it is more pricey I will ask about a best price and go from there.
I am not one to haggle for a long time over a coin.
Collection under construction: VG Barber Quarters & Halves
@TheRaven said:
As a collector, if the coin is lower cost under $20/$25 I either buy it or pass on it.
If it is more pricey I will ask about a best price and go from there.
I am not one to haggle for a long time over a coin.
Agree.
From a buyer's perspective, It's not life or death - it's a coin. Nobody will die, or be permanently impaired, if they don't get to indulge in the hobby. My approach is like @TheRaven 's; it's not worth wasting a bunch of time. If a dealer's "best price" is fair, I'll buy it [obviously, I'm interested enough to ask in the first place]. If the "best price" is too high for me, I'll just say thank you and move on.
This process probably doesn't count as "haggling" - see @cinque1543 above:
IMHO if a buyer makes an offer below the asking price, and the seller accepts or makes a counteroffer, I don’t see this as haggling.
To me, haggling is repeating the offer-counteroffer process multiple times.
Nothing in this world be it coins,cars,guitars,homes etc is worth full boat asking price. NOTHING.
There is always room for negotiating, and i will find those willing to negotiate. Like i have said several times in this threat and I thnik it bears it bears repeating: Those who do pay full price have more money than sense.
But will you end up with the best, pq coins? Probably not…………. Dreck usually costs less than a full boat, PQ - Full Boat plus extra…………….
Nice coins aren’t cheap and cheap coins aren’t nice.
Back in 2013 I bought this silver cup for $105. That was their full boat asking price. I paid their asking price, I didn’t ask for a discount.
Not long after buying it, I weighed the item and found out that they were charging me melt +25%. Which on most normal scrap silver is a bit high I will admit.
Shortly after, I had two different dealers offer $1200 on that same cup.
Am I an idiot for paying the full boat asking price?
@asheland said:
Back in 2013 I bought this silver cup for $105. That was their full boat asking price. I paid their asking price, I didn’t ask for a discount.
Not long after buying it, I weighed the item and found out that they were charging me melt +25%. Which on most normal scrap silver is a bit high I will admit.
Shortly after, I had two different dealers offer $1200 on that same cup.
Am I an idiot for paying the full boat asking price?
Early 19th century American silver, from a Southern silversmith, no less, at 25% over spot? You're lucky there wasn't a line of people trying to haggle the price up.
@asheland said:
Back in 2013 I bought this silver cup for $105. That was their full boat asking price. I paid their asking price, I didn’t ask for a discount.
Not long after buying it, I weighed the item and found out that they were charging me melt +25%. Which on most normal scrap silver is a bit high I will admit.
Shortly after, I had two different dealers offer $1200 on that same cup.
Am I an idiot for paying the full boat asking price?
Here’s my 2Cs
Seller obviously had no clue what his silver cup was worth. I don’t know if you were aware of the cups true value. If you did obviously buy it as quickly as possible.
If you didn’t know it was valuable in general if someone is selling an item for $105 I will either accept their offer or pass. If it’s worth considerably less there’s no point in negotiating and if it’s worth ~$100 I have too much pride to begin bargaining to save a few dollars.
Nothing in this world be it coins,cars,guitars,homes etc is worth full boat asking price. NOTHING.
There is always room for negotiating, and i will find those willing to negotiate. Like i have said several times in this threat and I thnik it bears it bears repeating: Those who do pay full price have more money than sense.
But will you end up with the best, pq coins? Probably not…………. Dreck usually costs less than a full boat, PQ - Full Boat plus extra…………
No,I do not purchase "dreck" ,thats very amusing.
oh,and by the way : You are creating imaginary scenarios that fit you narrative lol
People laughed at me for paying ‘full boat’ ($400) for a MS semi-key Morgan OGH/CAC about 6-7 years ago. Nobody wanted to buy it. Retail was around $225 at the time. Today retail is $1150 and that doesn’t even account for the OGH/CAC combo premium! One of the smartest things I ever did!!
Edit to add: After further research…The coin was selling for $275-$325 at the time I purchased it.
Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍
@Walkerfan said:
People laughed at me for paying ‘full boat’ ($400) for a MS semi-key Morgan OGH/CAC about 6-7 years ago. Nobody wanted to buy it. Retail was around $225 at the time. Today retail is $1150 and that doesn’t even account for the OGH/CAC combo premium! One of the smartest things I ever did!!
Edit to add: After further research…The coin was selling for $275-$325 at the time I purchased it.
Recommend you have a chat with Mr. @MorganFanatic and explain to him/her the value of paying full boat or higher………….
@Walkerfan said:
People laughed at me for paying ‘full boat’ ($400) for a MS semi-key Morgan OGH/CAC about 6-7 years ago. Nobody wanted to buy it. Retail was around $225 at the time. Today retail is $1150 and that doesn’t even account for the OGH/CAC combo premium! One of the smartest things I ever did!!
Edit to add: After further research…The coin was selling for $275-$325 at the time I purchased it.
The fact that “retail” increased substantially over about a 6-7 year period doesn’t necessarily mean that paying “full boat” at the time was a good move. There are other factors to consider.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
@Walkerfan said:
People laughed at me for paying ‘full boat’ ($400) for a MS semi-key Morgan OGH/CAC about 6-7 years ago. Nobody wanted to buy it. Retail was around $225 at the time. Today retail is $1150 and that doesn’t even account for the OGH/CAC combo premium! One of the smartest things I ever did!!
Edit to add: After further research…The coin was selling for $275-$325 at the time I purchased it.
The fact that “retail” increased substantially over about a 6-7 year period doesn’t necessarily mean that paying “full boat” at the time was a good move. There are other factors to consider.
I think a more than 300% increase in that short timeframe is a pretty good return. The fact that OGH/CAC combos are on fire, right now, adds a whole ‘nother dimension, too.
Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍
Comments
How are your relationships in your business life? Are you anyone’s first call?
Relationships are everything. If you treat every interaction as a one-time transaction your relationships will significantly suffer.
If you’ve always had this attitude and engaged in only transactional behavior you may not even realize what you are missing.
I think this approach works - to a point. If I walk up to a table or encounter a dealer site and every single coin is priced 25% over recent comps (especially on common material or bullion), I keep walking. I assume the dealer has unreasonable expectations.
Two gunslingers—
@Cougar— immovable object,
@Morganfanatic — unstoppable force,
and a table full of Morgans—
It’s haggledown!
In this thread, perhaps we have not clarified what we mean by haggling.
IMHO if a buyer makes an offer below the asking price, and the seller accepts or makes a counteroffer, I don’t see this as haggling.
To me, haggling is repeating the offer-counteroffer process multiple times.
Excellent post, @jmlanzaf, good points supported by real examples.
This was especially enlightening:
** you will tend to pay more if you haggle too much because you are wasting the dealer's time while shaving his profits. Experienced sellers actually have to either build the haggle into their pricing structure or hold firm on the prices. The idea that "full boat" is always the wrong price is based on the faulty assumption that all prices have built in wiggle room. Some do, some don't.**
Generally one can just tell hagglers in response to their offer “that’s the lowest the consignor will go.” If they are getting to you that’s a good playcall. Furthermore if negotiating don’t let them talk you way down. I would not give them more than 5 or 10 pct off.
You know what you need for your material in order to have satisfactory positive margin so just execute your playbook accordingly.
If the coin’s not consigned, you’re suggesting lying - a very poor “playcall”.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
I suggest “disingenuous” rather than “lying”, if he just omits that he is the consignor.
Replace consignor with owner.
DPOTD-3
'Emancipate yourselves from mental slavery'
CU #3245 B.N.A. #428
Don
I agree. Those are the items that have to be priced with a non-negotiable price. This is why I said that the idea that all items have wiggle room (haggle room) is a fallacy.
By the way, another fallacy is that the eBay price has to be higher than the show price. While it's true that eBay has an incremental pricing structure and a show doesn't, it's not necessarily true that it is overall cheaper to sell at a show than on ebay.
On ebay, I'll pay 9% incremental cost+ shipping. Call it 10% for simplicity. If I have to travel to a 2 day show and stay overnight with meals, the costs can be $500 to $1000. That means I hand to do $5000 to $10000 to match the 10% incremental cost of ebay. And I also have to man the table for 2 days and so I'm counting my time as $0. If is quite possible that my costs for a show might be 20% or more compared to 10% at ebay.
Now, the incremental cost is zero, so if the show is slow I can maybe sell at 10% below the eBay price to raise money. But I'm not making any more money at that number.
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
It’s non of their business who owns the coin and is a strategic move many use, especially with players trying to eat into profit margin.
I don’t put prices on coins as mkt fluid. But I have a cost code.
Don’t let them talk you down, work your angle.
To me, that wouldn’t be lying, but it would be misleading. I prefer honesty, transparency and simplicity:
“That’s the least I’m willing to take for the coin.”
I thought about writing “I’m sorry, but that’s the least I’m willing to take for the coin.” Bit, if someone has already countered my quoted price and then continues to haggle, I wouldn’t be sorry that I wasn’t willing to take less for the coin. 😉
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
If he owns the coin, he’s not the consignor. So I reject your suggestion.😬
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
"I prefer honesty, transparency and simplicity." What a concept! It is sad that some dealers, most obviously our resident ethically challenged dealer, can't embrace such a standard and views his potential customers with hostility. I think one of the best learning objectives for collectors is to know what dealers are trustworthy and fair. They deserve your business.
"She comes out of the sun in a silk dress,
running like a water color in the rain...."
Au contraire, one entity can be both.
Dana Mecum sold a personal car at his auction last year.
(he is the owner and the company is the consignor, he own the company, though)
Cougar sold a from his table at the show.
Ghost Cougar pretends to be the owner, and Cougar is the consignor.
That’s a different set of facts. And, while it was a decent try, I still reject your suggestion.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
What prevents an owner from being a consignor?
Madame T. sells her own used clothes at the consignment shop.
Despite the semantic relationship between owner and consignor, disingenuous means insincere.
I didn’t say that an owner couldn’t be a consignor. But rather, that’s a different situation than a dealer offering his inventory at a show and lying about a consignor if/when there isn’t one.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
lol - It’s all just fun and games. I don’t care for hagglers and their spiel is BS anyway.
Somebody trying to talk you down - it’s open season use whatever tactic against them.
Yeah, Ghost Cougar is a figment, but Cougar hints that he is a real consignor. Why say it when “no” suffices?
I don’t have to explain that. It’s all fun and games. That play forces them to leave or buy. Usually I just say that’s the best I can do. Or take a reasonable offer. I don’t like hagglers, lowballers….
I know what you're talking about. Reading through this thread made me think about an interaction I had a couple months ago at a So Cal show. Dealer I've seen at several shows is offering an NGC 1987 Silver Eagle in MS-70 for sale. CPG retail price is $650, and there are at least 3-4 identical examples on Ebay which range from either $50 below or $50-$75 above that price. This dealer had his priced at $900. I didn't haggle, I didn't try to negotiate a lower price, I just said I would consider it and moved on. He got agitated and insisted his price was fair and he pulled up some App on his phone I've never seen before to display how that was the retail price. OK, buddy. A couple years ago he was trying to sell a 1962 Franklin PF-69 Cam for $850 and would not budge off that price either.
I don’t see much chance of him getting $900. Perhaps it’s a part of material he is pricing ahead of the market for big silver run up he’s banking on.
I get it, it’s an easy out that says “it’s not my job”. It’s probably useful when you’re tired.
Let’s see…@jcc1876 indicated that a few are available on eBay for roughly $600 to $725. So maybe the dealer asking $900 will get his price if 1) silver increases by $175.00 to $300.00 per ounce and 2) the coins don’t lose any of their premium as a result of the huge move in silver. 😄
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
To $900 per ounce? LMFAO
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
I don't follow slabbed bullion coins- is melt value relevant to graded MS70 pieces?
I dont really discuss my personal life online,but yes i am many people's first call. I retired at the tender age of 55,and ever since have used music to supplement my pension. I play and sing in three working bands as well as teaching guitar both in person and via zoom. I stay booked as much as I wish to work,so yes i'm definitely First Call.
As far as relationships with dealers I have a select who text me when new Morgans that I may wish to purchase arrive. I'm not a tire kicker or a time waster and these gentlemen know I have a generous amount of disposable income each month and are quite eager for my business.
I appreciate your sentiments but I am truly not missing out on anything
Cheers
We are talking about parting with hard earned money, and to quote a famous man A Fool and His Money are Soon Parted.
I dont have time for emotions, or worrying about stepping on someone's toes because I dare offer less than asking price.If i encounter pushback from my offer I smile and move on. I cant understand why so many here let their emotions cloud their judgement when it comes to negotiating
Not talking $900 an oz. but silver run up to get price to his $900. This could be something like a better date 1oz Mexican Silver Libertad key date.
You bet it is. Melt is a part of the value but many have strong numismatic value especially the scarcer dates. Refer to CDN CPG for that issue. The graded MS 70 Pieces worth melt then some.
Mexico Libertads very much in demand. Take look at their CPG. Many banked big time on them when that silver huge spike hit. Many banked at double bubble, triple dipper. Those coins super for investment.
A friend of mine once got a really good deal from a dealer. The next time he did business with said dealer, the dealer was very rigid and high in his pricing. My friend told me he thought that the dealer was trying to ‘even things up’ with him. I told him it was possible. It’s food for thought, anyway.
Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍
My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):
https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/
Except that the premium tends to decrease as the bullion value increases. So, for silver value to push the price to $900, you'd need silver pretty close to $900
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
CACG coins that are Witter Brick trade at a premium. Manny hagglers don’t know how to grade or price coins. They may try to talk you down on PQ / nicer material especially plus coins. Don’t give away your nice stuff.
But will you end up with the best, pq coins? Probably not…………. Dreck usually costs less than a full boat, PQ - Full Boat plus extra…………….
BV makes up part of their value but numismatic value (investor demand adds more).
As a collector, if the coin is lower cost under $20/$25 I either buy it or pass on it.
If it is more pricey I will ask about a best price and go from there.
I am not one to haggle for a long time over a coin.
You bet it is (like gravity). It influences the bullion value piece. For full value I refer to CDN CPG.
Agree.
From a buyer's perspective, It's not life or death - it's a coin. Nobody will die, or be permanently impaired, if they don't get to indulge in the hobby. My approach is like @TheRaven 's; it's not worth wasting a bunch of time. If a dealer's "best price" is fair, I'll buy it [obviously, I'm interested enough to ask in the first place]. If the "best price" is too high for me, I'll just say thank you and move on.
This process probably doesn't count as "haggling" - see @cinque1543 above:
Serving the greater Mechanicsburg and Camp Hill, PA area
https://zenithbullionconsulting.wordpress.com/
Nice coins aren’t cheap and cheap coins aren’t nice.
Back in 2013 I bought this silver cup for $105. That was their full boat asking price. I paid their asking price, I didn’t ask for a discount.
Not long after buying it, I weighed the item and found out that they were charging me melt +25%. Which on most normal scrap silver is a bit high I will admit.
Shortly after, I had two different dealers offer $1200 on that same cup.
Am I an idiot for paying the full boat asking price?
My YouTube Channel
Early 19th century American silver, from a Southern silversmith, no less, at 25% over spot? You're lucky there wasn't a line of people trying to haggle the price up.
My spouse haggles. I negotiate.
Here’s my 2Cs
Seller obviously had no clue what his silver cup was worth. I don’t know if you were aware of the cups true value. If you did obviously buy it as quickly as possible.
If you didn’t know it was valuable in general if someone is selling an item for $105 I will either accept their offer or pass. If it’s worth considerably less there’s no point in negotiating and if it’s worth ~$100 I have too much pride to begin bargaining to save a few dollars.
No,I do not purchase "dreck" ,thats very amusing.
oh,and by the way : You are creating imaginary scenarios that fit you narrative lol
People laughed at me for paying ‘full boat’ ($400) for a MS semi-key Morgan OGH/CAC about 6-7 years ago. Nobody wanted to buy it. Retail was around $225 at the time. Today retail is $1150 and that doesn’t even account for the OGH/CAC combo premium! One of the smartest things I ever did!!
Edit to add: After further research…The coin was selling for $275-$325 at the time I purchased it.
Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍
My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):
https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/
Hmm………. No specific answer. Coins under retail, I vote for dreck…………..
Recommend you have a chat with Mr. @MorganFanatic and explain to him/her the value of paying full boat or higher………….
The fact that “retail” increased substantially over about a 6-7 year period doesn’t necessarily mean that paying “full boat” at the time was a good move. There are other factors to consider.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
I think a more than 300% increase in that short timeframe is a pretty good return. The fact that OGH/CAC combos are on fire, right now, adds a whole ‘nother dimension, too.
Sometimes, it’s better to be LUCKY than good. 🍀 🍺👍
My Full Walker Registry Set (1916-1947):
https://www.ngccoin.com/registry/competitive-sets/16292/