What grade would you give this 1934 Washington Quarter?




Video:
Key points:
Lustrous, bit of uglier darker toning but original surfaces on the obverse, few hits on the bust & one hit in the field. Reverse is nice.
Let me know what you think!
Comments
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You can't really grade from those pics, or pics in general, but I'll go 65.
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I also like MS65
Collector, occasional seller
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What makes you guys think this is more a 65 vs 66? The hits on the bust face area?
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I like 65 as well
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@Matt04 said:
What makes you guys think this is more a 65 vs 66? The hits on the bust face area?The eye appeal of the obverse is slightly negative IMO, and it looks like the luster is a little muted. Some MS70 or eZest might improve this one.
Collector, occasional seller
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I see 64
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@ChrisH821 said:
@Matt04 said:
What makes you guys think this is more a 65 vs 66? The hits on the bust face area?The eye appeal of the obverse is slightly negative IMO, and it looks like the luster is a little muted. Some MS70 or eZest might improve this one.
This video might help, its definitely lustrous but I do agree. Even though it looks abit uglier with the darker toning I do like original surfaces vs blast white.
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I like it a lot better after the video. I do wish the obverse looked like the reverse though.
Collector, occasional seller
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Welp... IM (Useless and) HO I could see this going MS65 (assuming the photos aren't hiding any flaws or marks that would be more visible from a different angle), but I'm going to say MS64 for the following reasons:
1)Some "just a bit too visible" hits on the nose
2) Some dark spots on the neck look like they might be enough to graduate from "toning" to some minor "spots". If I saw the coin in hand and they didn't look too bad then I might overlook this.
3) I think I see a dark fingermark on the neck. Again If it doesnt seem too bad in hand that might be able to be overlooked, but a print in that location does tend to put "downward pressure" on the grade
4) I'm reminded of a saying by Ben The CoinGeek... "Whatever grade you think your Washington (or Frankie) is, drop it by one". Now of course a statement like is ridiculous if taken literally, but it does make a point - the more open fields on a coin, the more places to find faults.Again all this is IM (useless and) HO. If you do grade it and do get a 65, I won't call it an "overgrade". But I saw the coin for sale at full MS65 price I'd probably keep looking. It just looks like an MS64 to me.
Philately will get you nowhere....1 -
@ChrisH821 said:
I like it a lot better after the video. I do wish the obverse looked like the reverse though.agreed
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I do want to throw out there for reference, this is a MS66 CAC'd example.

(When it comes to hits on washington)
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I just saw there's a video, and having seen it I'll now say I do see the coin as MS65. The original photo makes some elements look worse than they would in hand. My original comments below
@lsica said:
Welp... IM (Useless and) HO I could see this going MS65 (assuming the photos aren't hiding any flaws or marks that would be more visible from a different angle), but I'm going to say MS64 for the following reasons:
1)Some "just a bit too visible" hits on the nose
2) Some dark spots on the neck look like they might be enough to graduate from "toning" to some minor "spots". If I saw the coin in hand and they didn't look too bad then I might overlook this.
3) I think I see a dark fingermark on the neck. Again If it doesnt seem too bad in hand that might be able to be overlooked, but a print in that location does tend to put "downward pressure" on the grade
4) I'm reminded of a saying by Ben The CoinGeek... "Whatever grade you think your Washington (or Frankie) is, drop it by one". Now of course a statement like is ridiculous if taken literally, but it does make a point - the more open fields on a coin, the more places to find faults.Again all this is IM (useless and) HO. If you do grade it and do get a 65, I won't call it an "overgrade". But I saw the coin for sale at full MS65 price I'd probably keep looking. It just looks like an MS64 to me.
Philately will get you nowhere....0 -
Caveat Emptor... my first impression was MS64 due to the hits on the cheek and chatter in front of the profile... and spotty toning... but I sort of suck grading mid-range MS Washies...
Collecting: Dansco 7070; Middle Date Large Cents (VF-AU); Box of 20;
Successful BST transactions with: SilverEagles92; Ahrensdad; Smitty; GregHansen; Lablade; Mercury10c; copperflopper; whatsup; KISHU1; scrapman1077, crispy, canadanz, smallchange, robkool, Mission16, ranshdow, ibzman350, Fallguy, Collectorcoins, SurfinxHI, jwitten, Walkerguy21D, dsessom.0 -
I like the skin and think it is an attractive coin.
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MS 62. The dark areas push me not to go above 62. It just doesn’t have it to go higher imo.
Investor0 -
@Cougar1978 said:
MS 60Try again.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
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My guess is that the coin was graded 65.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
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@Matt04 said:
I do want to throw out there for reference, this is a MS66 CAC'd example.
(When it comes to hits on washington)
Attractive.
I like yours at 65.
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Agree with the general consensus at 65
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JA left this sticker on it, would this be worth getting a restoration service for ? Or is this stain unremovable?
Its a MS66 grade and in lighting the stain is not really visible.
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Hard to say without seeing it in hand, but I think you'd be better off just finding a stickered MS66 example instead of waiting for conservation with ambiguous results.
Collector of Capped Bust Halves, SLQ's, Commems, and random cool stuff! @davidv_numismatics on Instagram
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@Matt04 said:

JA left this sticker on it, would this be worth getting a restoration service for ? Or is this stain unremovable?
Its a MS66 grade and in lighting the stain is not really visible.
The coin looks a long way from a CAC-stickered 66 to me. And I wouldn’t spend money on restoration service.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
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I got to agree with MFeld on this one.
“When you don't know what you're talking about, it's hard to know when you're finished.” - Tommy Smothers1 -
Wow! It looks sooooooo different from the first set of images you shared with us. If the image of the coin in the slab is accurate then I don't know that you want to throw good money after bad. Just sell it and buy a coin you like.
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I think it’s maxed out in the 66 no-sticker holder. From glancing at the first pics and not watching the video I had it at a 64. I’ll assume it’s accurately graded, but wouldn’t expect it to warrant an “A” designation for the grade.
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@TomB said:
Wow! It looks sooooooo different from the first set of images you shared with us. If the image of the coin in the slab is accurate then I don't know that you want to throw good money after bad. Just sell it and buy a coin you like.Without direct lighting that’s how it looks, it’s a shame because with good lighting the coin really looks nice like the photos and video I’ve shared .
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