@TomB said:
A quick glance through these looks to show many AU-ish coins with or without hairlines on their surfaces, but the hairlines might be more pronounced simply because of the lighting. I spent some time attempting to match the obverse and reverse of the individual coins and any that are 1928-S or 1935-S are worth a closer look, but it appears that none of those is very high grade. The only coin that might be worth something quite a bit over bullion might be coin seven in the first image if it's a 1928-S, but I think from the paired image of the obverse it is a 1923-S.
I mentioned earlier to buy a Red Book, did anyone in your family do this yet? It is a low cost way to educate yourself and if you can't do that then it will be awfully hard for everyone to step up and figure these all out for you.
Right now, these coins appear to be worth slightly over bullion value.
Yep. Makes sense. No, we did not get a Red Book yet. I'm the one driving this project and haven't had the time to learn this and take care of everything else in life at the same time yet.
@dast1983 said:
Do appreciate your responses everyone!
I know Peace dollars and IMHO There is nothing there in those condition ranges that would warrant your time for a greater return. I see 30 cool 100 year old Silver Dollars that are worth 75$ each, you should get an offer from a dealer for 60$ each, its a fair amount (today currently) to pay their light bills. So retail value is $2250 and wholesale is about $1800
But beware!! with silver at a nuclear all time high, a year ago those were worth about $1k retail. If you wanted quick cash at today's levels listing them on the sell board here would get you closer to melt splitting the difference between retail and wholesale but with metal transactions, timing is everything. Who knows, they could go up some more orrrrr crash. Lesson here is the coin value is only a tiny percent compared to their silver value so time it like if they were forks
I know Peace dollars and IMHO There is nothing there in those condition ranges that would warrant your time for a greater return. I see 30 cool 100 year old Silver Dollars that are worth 75$ each, you get an offer from a dealer for 60$ each its fair to pay their light bills. So retail value is $2250 and wholesale is about $1800
But beware that is with silver at a nuclear all time high, a year ago those were worth about 1k retail. If you wanted quick cash at these levels listing them on the sell board here would get you closer to melt splitting the difference between retail and wholesale but with metal transaction timing is everything. Who know they could go up some more
I am fond of the Peace Dollar design; I think they're nice coins. If you want to sell them, especially to a dealer, brace yourself for disappointment - they'd likely pay based on spot price of silver, and they won't give you the full $73 or whatever it is right now.
Remember that selling to a coin shop or other source will never yield Red Book price, nor even spot price - everybody has to make money! If the dealer can't find a collector who will pay retail price, they'll sell it to a refiner - the refiner can't pay spot price either, and the dealer won't sell it to the refiner at cost, so you'll take a sizable hit to ensure the profit of both parties. Also, I've been hearing that refiners have been getting lots of 'junk silver' recently thanks to the spike in the silver price, so the refiners are paying quite a bit less than spot. So between the refiner, who has to make a little profit, and the coin shop, who also has to make a little profit, you're likely to get hosed right now.
So @Crypto's estimate - where you might get approx. $60 apiece from a dealer - is real-world accurate for the common-date coins. Unfortunately, that applies to most of the coins pictured above.
I'd also echo his advice to try the "Buy sell trade" or "BST" elsewhere on this board. You're likely to get a bit more than you would from a local coin shop. Can't hurt to ask your local dealer for a quote anyway though.
Dates/Mint marks to look for
The 'better' dates for Peace dollars are 1921 High Relief, 1922 High Relief proof, 1924-S, 1927 (no mint mark), 1928 (no mint mark), 1934-S and 1935-S.
The highest-value, aka "key date," coins are the 21 HR, and the 28-P (that is, no mint mark). A dealer might pay around $250-350 apiece, depending on condition, of course. Unfortunately, it doesn't appear that you have either of these.
The absolute highest-value is the 22 HR proof. Those are pretty scarce, though, and worth 6 figures. It's basically a certainty that you don't have any of those!
The others in the above list are usually called "semi-key" and they'd retail for ~$100. A dealer would, of course, pay you more like $70-75. $80 if he's feeling generous.
Anything that isn't specified on this list is likely to sell based on the spot price of silver, minus $10-15, as discussed above.
A few thoughts:
One of the coins in the cardboard 2x2 holder is marked 1935-S - if the reverse marked #6 is a match for that 1935-S, that's unfortunate, because it looks like the reverse is pretty severely damaged - that would likely negate any extra value. Expect to get no more than spot price, if I'm correct about the damaged reverse.
It looks like there might be a raw 1935-S in there also, if photo 1 and photo 3 match up. If I'm correct there, that's good, because both sides look intact. Worn, maybe VF-20 condition at best, but not damaged. That would fetch maybe ~$10-15 more than the rest.
The 1924 (at #9 in the 18-coin photo) might be an 'S', again it's tough to tell for sure. If so, that 1924-S would also be a semi-key, worth a few dollars more than the rest.
Take another look at the photo of the reverses of the cardboard 2x2ed coins, specifically #4 (the one labeled 1926-S, if I'm interpreting this right). It looks like that one has really beautiful detail on the reverse! Tough to tell for sure from the photos, but it looks like that one might be the nicest coin in the batch! Another possibility is #10 in the 24-coin photo. In any case, a couple of these Peace Dollars have very attractive detail! If you want to save any as heirlooms, grab a magnifier, take a close look at the detail visible on the coins, and also look for any ugly marks or scratches. Consider saving the very nicest specimens, if you still want to keep a few. Given the price of silver right now, I'm guessing whatever you sell to a coin shop is likely to get shipped to the nearest refinery in short order.
Overall, very nice set of keepsakes! Best of luck to you, @Dast1983! Please keep us posted on any developments or additional questions
I don’t know a dealer (in their right
Mind) that would pay premium for VFs on anything other than a 21p 28p and maybe a 34s if it was picture perfect for the grade at these silver levels. That few bucks extra for semi keys was back at 20$ silver.
I stand corrected I see you listed a 22HR, those bring extra in VF
@ZenithBullionPA said:
So between the refiner, who has to make a little profit, and the coin shop, who also has to make a little profit, you're likely to get hosed right now.
Hosed? That seems a tad harsh. If you're not going to refine them or even sell them to the refiner yourself, it doesn't seem outrageous to expect that the people doing those things will want to make something for the effort, as you noted. So- why would that be considered getting "hosed"?
@ZenithBullionPA said:
So between the refiner, who has to make a little profit, and the coin shop, who also has to make a little profit, you're likely to get hosed right now.
Hosed? That seems a tad harsh. If you're not going to refine them or even sell them to the refiner yourself, it doesn't seem outrageous to expect that the people doing those things will want to make something for the effort, as you noted. So- why would that be considered getting "hosed"?
Because it's only fair if we pay 0% premium when we buy and get 10% over hammer when we sell. 😁
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
@ZenithBullionPA said:
So between the refiner, who has to make a little profit, and the coin shop, who also has to make a little profit, you're likely to get hosed right now.
Hosed? That seems a tad harsh. If you're not going to refine them or even sell them to the refiner yourself, it doesn't seem outrageous to expect that the people doing those things will want to make something for the effort, as you noted. So- why would that be considered getting "hosed"?
Because it's only fair if we pay 0% premium when we buy and get 10% over hammer when we sell. 😁
Is that anything like insisting on being able to buy at Greysheet bid and getting insulted when offered 20% back when selling?
@ZenithBullionPA said:
So between the refiner, who has to make a little profit, and the coin shop, who also has to make a little profit, you're likely to get hosed right now.
Hosed? That seems a tad harsh. If you're not going to refine them or even sell them to the refiner yourself, it doesn't seem outrageous to expect that the people doing those things will want to make something for the effort, as you noted. So- why would that be considered getting "hosed"?
"Hosed" is probably a little harsh. As I said in the comment, you can expect the refiner and the dealer to want a profit on the transaction. That's not unreasonable.
However, under normal circumstances, the refiners will pay much closer to spot, and so the dealer can pay maybe $5 or $6 under spot. Since the refiners are generally paying so far back of spot right now, presumably because of the river of 'junk silver' pouring in, the spot price is not a good representation of what you'll actually get at this moment.
@Crypto said:
I don’t know a dealer (in their right
Mind) that would pay premium for VFs on anything other than a 21p 28p and maybe a 34s if it was picture perfect for the grade at these silver levels. That few bucks extra for semi keys was back at 20$ silver.
I stand corrected I see you listed a 22HR, those bring extra in VF
My local shops tend to pay a bit extra for semi-keys. (Not much, of course) Their offers are usually well below spot, so they can afford it to keep their clientele happy. A couple of them also travel to street fairs/antique shows in other states, so that may offer them another outlet to sell those 'better-date' coins for collectors who are looking to complete a set.
There are those of us in the hobby, myself included, who do buy mid-grade coins. Especially a collector who's trying to complete a set, but has relatively modest means. There may not be a ton of us, but the market does exist.
@Crypto said:
I don’t know a dealer (in their right
Mind) that would pay premium for VFs on anything other than a 21p 28p and maybe a 34s if it was picture perfect for the grade at these silver levels. That few bucks extra for semi keys was back at 20$ silver.
I stand corrected I see you listed a 22HR, those bring extra in VF
My local shops tend to pay a bit extra for semi-keys. (Not much, of course) Their offers are usually well below spot, so they can afford it to keep their clientele happy. A couple of them also travel to street fairs/antique shows in other states, so that may offer them another outlet to sell those 'better-date' coins for collectors who are looking to complete a set.
There are those of us in the hobby, myself included, who do buy mid-grade coins. Especially a collector who's trying to complete a set, but has relatively modest means. There may not be a ton of us, but the market does exist.
Actually, I think there are several tons of us collecting midgrade Peace dollars. I've always wanted to complete a dove-gray mid-grade set of Peace dollars. The same is true for Morgans.
Gold (if there is any) then silver will probably be most value of set. Dollars, halves, quarters and dimes dated 1964 and before. A redbook will tell you if you have any keys worth much more than melt.
Coininflation tells current melt value of the silver at the bottom of the page https://coinflation.com/
Comments
Yep. Makes sense. No, we did not get a Red Book yet. I'm the one driving this project and haven't had the time to learn this and take care of everything else in life at the same time yet.
Do appreciate your responses everyone!
I know Peace dollars and IMHO There is nothing there in those condition ranges that would warrant your time for a greater return. I see 30 cool 100 year old Silver Dollars that are worth 75$ each, you should get an offer from a dealer for 60$ each, its a fair amount (today currently) to pay their light bills. So retail value is $2250 and wholesale is about $1800
But beware!! with silver at a nuclear all time high, a year ago those were worth about $1k retail. If you wanted quick cash at today's levels listing them on the sell board here would get you closer to melt splitting the difference between retail and wholesale but with metal transactions, timing is everything. Who knows, they could go up some more orrrrr crash. Lesson here is the coin value is only a tiny percent compared to their silver value so time it like if they were forks
11.5$ Southern Dollars, The little “Big Easy” set
Agreed, @Crypto has good advice here.
I am fond of the Peace Dollar design; I think they're nice coins. If you want to sell them, especially to a dealer, brace yourself for disappointment - they'd likely pay based on spot price of silver, and they won't give you the full $73 or whatever it is right now.
Remember that selling to a coin shop or other source will never yield Red Book price, nor even spot price - everybody has to make money! If the dealer can't find a collector who will pay retail price, they'll sell it to a refiner - the refiner can't pay spot price either, and the dealer won't sell it to the refiner at cost, so you'll take a sizable hit to ensure the profit of both parties. Also, I've been hearing that refiners have been getting lots of 'junk silver' recently thanks to the spike in the silver price, so the refiners are paying quite a bit less than spot. So between the refiner, who has to make a little profit, and the coin shop, who also has to make a little profit, you're likely to get hosed right now.
So @Crypto's estimate - where you might get approx. $60 apiece from a dealer - is real-world accurate for the common-date coins. Unfortunately, that applies to most of the coins pictured above.
I'd also echo his advice to try the "Buy sell trade" or "BST" elsewhere on this board. You're likely to get a bit more than you would from a local coin shop. Can't hurt to ask your local dealer for a quote anyway though.
Dates/Mint marks to look for
The 'better' dates for Peace dollars are 1921 High Relief, 1922 High Relief proof, 1924-S, 1927 (no mint mark), 1928 (no mint mark), 1934-S and 1935-S.
A few thoughts:
Overall, very nice set of keepsakes! Best of luck to you, @Dast1983! Please keep us posted on any developments or additional questions
Serving the greater Mechanicsburg and Camp Hill, PA area
https://zenithbullionconsulting.wordpress.com/
I don’t know a dealer (in their right
Mind) that would pay premium for VFs on anything other than a 21p 28p and maybe a 34s if it was picture perfect for the grade at these silver levels. That few bucks extra for semi keys was back at 20$ silver.
I stand corrected I see you listed a 22HR, those bring extra in VF
11.5$ Southern Dollars, The little “Big Easy” set
Hosed? That seems a tad harsh. If you're not going to refine them or even sell them to the refiner yourself, it doesn't seem outrageous to expect that the people doing those things will want to make something for the effort, as you noted. So- why would that be considered getting "hosed"?
Because it's only fair if we pay 0% premium when we buy and get 10% over hammer when we sell. 😁
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
Is that anything like insisting on being able to buy at Greysheet bid and getting insulted when offered 20% back when selling?
Asking for a friend...
Agreed, get a redbook
And as for silver, there is always a limit before things tumble down
for sale: 1965 toned Austria silver 5 Schilling NGC PF66 Cameo (at link below)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CdxRrPn8XY9Lf8MS9
"Hosed" is probably a little harsh. As I said in the comment, you can expect the refiner and the dealer to want a profit on the transaction. That's not unreasonable.
However, under normal circumstances, the refiners will pay much closer to spot, and so the dealer can pay maybe $5 or $6 under spot. Since the refiners are generally paying so far back of spot right now, presumably because of the river of 'junk silver' pouring in, the spot price is not a good representation of what you'll actually get at this moment.
Serving the greater Mechanicsburg and Camp Hill, PA area
https://zenithbullionconsulting.wordpress.com/
My local shops tend to pay a bit extra for semi-keys. (Not much, of course) Their offers are usually well below spot, so they can afford it to keep their clientele happy. A couple of them also travel to street fairs/antique shows in other states, so that may offer them another outlet to sell those 'better-date' coins for collectors who are looking to complete a set.
There are those of us in the hobby, myself included, who do buy mid-grade coins. Especially a collector who's trying to complete a set, but has relatively modest means. There may not be a ton of us, but the market does exist.
Serving the greater Mechanicsburg and Camp Hill, PA area
https://zenithbullionconsulting.wordpress.com/
Actually, I think there are several tons of us collecting midgrade Peace dollars. I've always wanted to complete a dove-gray mid-grade set of Peace dollars. The same is true for Morgans.
Gold (if there is any) then silver will probably be most value of set. Dollars, halves, quarters and dimes dated 1964 and before. A redbook will tell you if you have any keys worth much more than melt.
Coininflation tells current melt value of the silver at the bottom of the page
https://coinflation.com/
Brian at Vermilion Enterprise on YouTube usually has daily buy and sell spreads if you don't want to shop around getting pricing.