This is also extremly important for proofs and key dates. There arent a lot of them. Youll never get a "great deal".
Which coins are do you have in mind, and does it include a specific grade or grade range?
Its coin dependent. So for example even MS barbers deals are rare to be had. Its the rarity of the coin, the type, and the grade. It isnt cookie cutter. But if I had to make a rule of thumb, if you know its rare and very desirable - that is how I would define it.
Thing a 92s vs a 81s morgan
A 81s is common. Those you can get deals on, because well....everyone has them. The 92s for example, dealers will sit on them till the price is right or they are forced to move them.
Make connections with dealers. Thats the best way to "catch them when they need to move stuff". I was able to get a GREAT deal on a very very hard coin, because the dealer needed moeny for a collection purchase. That big massive coin, was liquidity he needed.
Hope that helps
www.MyCoinWorX.com
Coin Inventory Software from Collector to Coin Shop
@seatedlib3991 said:
Reading this thread really makes me miss my dad. I don't think he ever paid full price for anything. Usually took him all of 10 minutes to have the other person begging him to take less money. i guess it is a lost art in this electronic age.
My dad ALWAYS haggled too. He took me to my first dozen shows. Later, in adulthood, I took him to a show and paid a fair asking price— without trying to get a lower price. I could tell he was surprised/disappointed.
This is also extremly important for proofs and key dates. There arent a lot of them. Youll never get a "great deal".
Which coins are do you have in mind, and does it include a specific grade or grade range?
Its coin dependent. So for example even MS barbers deals are rare to be had. Its the rarity of the coin, the type, and the grade. It isnt cookie cutter. But if I had to make a rule of thumb, if you know its rare and very desirable - that is how I would define it.
Thing a 92s vs a 81s morgan
A 81s is common. Those you can get deals on, because well....everyone has them. The 92s for example, dealers will sit on them till the price is right or they are forced to move them.
Make connections with dealers. Thats the best way to "catch them when they need to move stuff". I was able to get a GREAT deal on a very very hard coin, because the dealer needed moeny for a collection purchase. That big massive coin, was liquidity he needed.
Hope that helps
I wasn't asking for the reason in your post.
I wouldn't expect to buy your examples "below market", but the coins you listed are easy to buy, even in MS. MS barbers aren't hard to buy. On the few occasions I performed a series search, every dime was available in MS except maybe the 1894-O and 1895-O with those two in AU. I've found every single Barber quarter in MS on the same search. I've found every single Liberty Seated proof dime from 1858 onward with more than a few earlier dates in the same search too. This is looking on eBay and Collector's Corner.
One sharp businessman recommended a gimmick on high price tag items: write out a check for what you're willing to pay if the seller isn't budging, and cut it in half with your phone number in case they change their mind. And tell him it's good for the following XX minutes.
@Cougar1978 said:
Just BS the haglers - “it’s $5 over what I have in it.” Or “that’s the lowest the consignor will go.”
For me when they come out of the woodwork, let the games begin, especially in this bull market.
You should be embarrassed by your ill-advised suggestion to lie, but you’re probably proud of yourself for it. And in addition to that, there are other equally or more effective and honorable ways to address such situations.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
With a dealer you plan on working with frequently, squeezing every last cent out of the first few transactions will likely cost you more in the long run. Don’t pay foolish prices, don’t be a tightwad, and you might have a great long-term relationship. Don’t be the guy who ends up paying the “jerk” tax over and over. Be the guy who gets a personal call when something awesome shows up behind the dealers table.
If it’s a one-off transaction with a dealer you rarely buy from, it’s a little different. I favor the “Is that your best price?” approach and then pass or play.
It’s always interesting to see a dealer look a customer over, look across the aisle to another dealer, and receive either a slight nod “yes” or a slight nod “no.”
@Cougar1978 said:
Just BS the haglers - “it’s $5 over what I have in it.” Or “that’s the lowest the consignor will go.”
For me when they come out of the woodwork, let the games begin, especially in this bull market.
You should be embarrassed by your ill-advised suggestion to lie, but you’re probably proud of yourself for it. And in addition to that, there are other equally or more effective and honorable ways to address such situations.
Lying immediately lowers your grade and once it starts it is like PVC on a coin. 🤷♂️
I was at a coin show last Sunday. A dealer who I know and have done business with had some silver dollars for sale. I asked 'how much', he said $40 each. I asked if he could do any better if I bought 20 of them (a roll). He said 'yes' and quoted me a price. Was I haggling?
DPOTD-3 'Emancipate yourselves from mental slavery'
@ajaan said:
I was at a coin show last Sunday. A dealer who I know and have done business with had some silver dollars for sale. I asked 'how much', he said $40 each. I asked if he could do any better if I bought 20 of them (a roll). He said 'yes' and quoted me a price. Was I haggling?
Yes.
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
@ajaan said:
I was at a coin show last Sunday. A dealer who I know and have done business with had some silver dollars for sale. I asked 'how much', he said $40 each. I asked if he could do any better if I bought 20 of them (a roll). He said 'yes' and quoted me a price. Was I haggling?
No. You were negotiating. If you kept chiseling him on his price and became a pest, then you'd be haggling.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
@ajaan said:
I was at a coin show last Sunday. A dealer who I know and have done business with had some silver dollars for sale. I asked 'how much', he said $40 each. I asked if he could do any better if I bought 20 of them (a roll). He said 'yes' and quoted me a price. Was I haggling?
I would have said "no", you were not haggling. The $40 was the price for one coin. You asked for the price on 20 coins to see if he had an unadvertised volume discount.
If you had tried to get him to go lower at that point then that would have been haggling. 🤑
@ajaan said:
I was at a coin show last Sunday. A dealer who I know and have done business with had some silver dollars for sale. I asked 'how much', he said $40 each. I asked if he could do any better if I bought 20 of them (a roll). He said 'yes' and quoted me a price. Was I haggling?
No. You were negotiating. If you kept chiseling him on his price and became a pest, then you'd be haggling.
I should add, I bought them at the price he quoted.
DPOTD-3 'Emancipate yourselves from mental slavery'
How many times have you bragged about paying full retail??
"My friends who see my collection sometimes ask what something costs. I tell them and they are in awe at my stupidity." (Baccaruda, 12/03).I find it hard to believe that he (Trump) rushed to some hotel to meet girls of loose morals, although ours are undoubtedly the best in the world. (Putin 1/17) Gone but not forgotten. IGWT, Speedy, Bear, BigE, HokieFore, John Burns, Russ, TahoeDale, Dahlonega, Astrorat, Stewart Blay, Oldhoopster, Broadstruck, Ricko, Big Moose, Cardinal.
I prefer offer & counter offer. I will always ask for their best price and counter offer after that if I believe it is my best interest. Coin shows are like flea markets to me. No price is non-negatable.
USN & USAF retired 1971-1993
Successful Transactions with more than 100 Members
I'd rather not haggle but I understand that others like to, so I will engage them if that's their preference. If, however, somebody asks me for my best price and upon being given it, continues in an attempt to negotiate a lower price, we're almost certainly done.
@BLUEJAYWAY said:
I suspect dealers haggle amongst each other. Or is that a different situation.
Some dealers are incessant hagglers. But most dealer to dealer transactions don't involve much haggling as the bid/ask is generally known to both, they are both in the same business and play by the same basic rules, and they tend to have longer term relationship. Collectors with long term relationships with dealers also don't tend to haggle.
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
When I was a novice at the Bay state show the only time I set up there, a dealer came by with Bluesheet quotes to buy a $5 Indian in MS63 and I allowed myself to be intimidated and sell it at that. At shows you really have to have a show price labelling system among all the other things you need to do.
Sometimes wanting cash flow (setup) at shows just quote cost plus 5 or 10 pct or just $5 (over cost) to move inventory. If they buy fine. If not just sit there bored. I might then lock the display cases walk around the bourse room looking at stuff or get some coffee.
All of my stuff have cost and MV in code on back of item. Allows me flexibility in quoting prices, quick execution, and avoidance of giving something away.
As far as a bluesheet or low ball offer I just tell them “go find one.” I don’t care who they are. I am there for my agenda not theirs.
If your a newbie setup big gun players will try pick you off. Just stuff them in the backfield.
One situation is when I have a coin priced at $50 and it bids at $48, and someone asks "can I get a better price?". Sometimes, I will quote "how about $55" (a "better price" for me) and they accidentally agree.
I really haggle when buying furniture on consignment to find out what the lowest price the shop is able to agree upon. I hate paying the price my wife is happy paying. LOL.
I had one show customer big spender who always wanted knock off 10 pct on what he picked out. So I just bumped up the price quote accordingly to offset that. Call that play student body left off the left hash lol.
@Cougar1978 said:
I had one show customer big spender who always wanted knock off 10 pct on what he picked out. So I just bumped up the price quote accordingly to offset that. Call that play student body left off the left hash lol.
It’s just all fun and games.
I don't believe you've ever gone to a show with coins to sell.
@Cougar1978 said:
I had one show customer big spender who always wanted knock off 10 pct on what he picked out. So I just bumped up the price quote accordingly to offset that. Call that play student body left off the left hash lol.
It’s just all fun and games.
I don't believe you've ever gone to a show with coins to sell.
Or he went and brought them all home with him...
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
@Cougar1978 said:
I had one show customer big spender who always wanted knock off 10 pct on what he picked out. So I just bumped up the price quote accordingly to offset that. Call that play student body left off the left hash lol.
It’s just all fun and games.
I don't believe you've ever gone to a show with coins to sell.
Or he went and brought them all home with him...
No, I don’t think he sells coins. I offered to buy anything he had if it was quality and he couldn’t produce a single coin. Just LOLs.
When asked what my best price is and then the potential buyer goes lower, that steams my beans. I normally tell them "i hope you find what you are looking for, at the price you are willing to pay."
oih82w8 = Oh I Hate To Wait _defectus patientia_aka...Dr. Defecto - Curator of RMO's
@oih82w8 said:
When asked what my best price is and then the potential buyer goes lower, that steams my beans. I normally tell them "i hope you find what you are looking for, at the price you are willing to pay."
Yeah. That bugs me more than low ball offers. Don't ask me for my best price and then counter me lower.
I also hate when people tell me they are a military veteran as part of the negotiation. Not relevant
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
I know dealers have overhead. I believe many dealers do it on the side.
Not all but many.
I think it's a tough business to make money in.
Considering all the time and effort used to maintain an inventory.
There are giants in the trade but I think a large percent do it out of their passion of numismatics.
As far as haggling I think its a must to ask for a best price.
If the dealer says he cant do better, then it boils down to my knowledge of what im buying.
Most dealers will knock a few bucks off their price.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Dantheman984 Toyz4geo SurfinxHI greencopper RWW bigjpst bretsan MWallace logger7
@Morgan13 . Would you have any follow up information? Price range? size of discount? length of knowing dealer? etc. I am just curious because I have never done anything ever except pay the price asked. The only 2 exceptions in my life are David Lawrence and Northeast Numismatic. Both of them openly state they will entertain lower offers. At Northeast you have to look for coins where the price is underlined. I just bought a coin from David lawrence that way but don't remember the rules. Any information appreciated. James
@seatedlib3991 I do have a point of reference. Let's take Ebay for instance. Make an offer or I message them for a better price. I do it on the bourse floor.
Its not rude to ask.
Its more in the way its done.
I am also a firm believer that if you ask and a better price is given then you should be prepared to buy.
Passing after a discount is given is rude in my opinion.
This is how I do it.
Sometimes I am told "no discount" well then I usually say "im going to look around a bit". Let me think about it.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Dantheman984 Toyz4geo SurfinxHI greencopper RWW bigjpst bretsan MWallace logger7
@oih82w8 said:
When asked what my best price is and then the potential buyer goes lower, that steams my beans. I normally tell them "i hope you find what you are looking for, at the price you are willing to pay."
On the flip side is when you request a best price, get quoted one, pass, and then the dealer comes back with “are we close? Or “do you want to make an offer?”
A few years ago at FUN, I found a tough middle date large cent in the grade range I was seeking, in a dealer’s case that for the most part had much higher end material. His wife got it out of the case, I inspected it, it was all there, and the sticker on the back was $1700. This was close to price guide retail, but above auction records, but I was hopeful when I asked her for a best price. She looked at the code and came back with “we can sell this for $1200”. Now we were below auction records, but I maintained my poker face, but before I could say anything, the dealer got up, took it from his wife, said if you’re interested in it, you can have it for $1000 even. That made it a no-brainer, and I knew better than to haggle, as that was lower than I would have offered anyway. His only other large cent was a $50k wreath cent, so I assume he was just blowing it out to make it go away lol!
@Morgan13 said:
I am also a firm believer that if you ask and a better price is given then you should be prepared to buy.
Passing after a discount is given is rude in my opinion.
I don't mind being asked for my best price and having that offer declined. What I don't care for is an attempt at haggling to get a lower price after that.
@oih82w8 said:
When asked what my best price is and then the potential buyer goes lower, that steams my beans. I normally tell them "i hope you find what you are looking for, at the price you are willing to pay."
Yeah. That bugs me more than low ball offers. Don't ask me for my best price and then counter me lower.
I also hate when people tell me they are a military veteran as part of the negotiation. Not relevant
Thank you for your service.
Successful transactions:Tookybandit. "Everyone is equal, some are more equal than others".
On occasion while perusing a dealers wares/prices if asked by said dealer: Interested in anything? I politely respond"Too rich for my blood/budget". And depart. No hard feelings either way that way with a back and forth.
Successful transactions:Tookybandit. "Everyone is equal, some are more equal than others".
Comments
Its coin dependent. So for example even MS barbers deals are rare to be had. Its the rarity of the coin, the type, and the grade. It isnt cookie cutter. But if I had to make a rule of thumb, if you know its rare and very desirable - that is how I would define it.
Thing a 92s vs a 81s morgan
A 81s is common. Those you can get deals on, because well....everyone has them. The 92s for example, dealers will sit on them till the price is right or they are forced to move them.
Make connections with dealers. Thats the best way to "catch them when they need to move stuff". I was able to get a GREAT deal on a very very hard coin, because the dealer needed moeny for a collection purchase. That big massive coin, was liquidity he needed.
Hope that helps
www.MyCoinWorX.com
Coin Inventory Software from Collector to Coin Shop
My dad ALWAYS haggled too. He took me to my first dozen shows. Later, in adulthood, I took him to a show and paid a fair asking price— without trying to get a lower price. I could tell he was surprised/disappointed.
I wasn't asking for the reason in your post.
I wouldn't expect to buy your examples "below market", but the coins you listed are easy to buy, even in MS. MS barbers aren't hard to buy. On the few occasions I performed a series search, every dime was available in MS except maybe the 1894-O and 1895-O with those two in AU. I've found every single Barber quarter in MS on the same search. I've found every single Liberty Seated proof dime from 1858 onward with more than a few earlier dates in the same search too. This is looking on eBay and Collector's Corner.
Just BS the hagglers - “it’s $5 over what I have in it.” Or “that’s the lowest the consignor will go.”
For me when they come out of the woodwork, let the games begin, especially in this bull market.
One sharp businessman recommended a gimmick on high price tag items: write out a check for what you're willing to pay if the seller isn't budging, and cut it in half with your phone number in case they change their mind. And tell him it's good for the following XX minutes.
Coin shows, both as a buyer and seller, would be a lot more boring without haggling over prices.
Official PCGS account of:
www.TallahasseeCoinClub.com
I’d gladly experience that type of boredom.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Three edits and you still couldn't spell 'haglers'?
You should be embarrassed by your ill-advised suggestion to lie, but you’re probably proud of yourself for it. And in addition to that, there are other equally or more effective and honorable ways to address such situations.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
With a dealer you plan on working with frequently, squeezing every last cent out of the first few transactions will likely cost you more in the long run. Don’t pay foolish prices, don’t be a tightwad, and you might have a great long-term relationship. Don’t be the guy who ends up paying the “jerk” tax over and over. Be the guy who gets a personal call when something awesome shows up behind the dealers table.
If it’s a one-off transaction with a dealer you rarely buy from, it’s a little different. I favor the “Is that your best price?” approach and then pass or play.
It’s always interesting to see a dealer look a customer over, look across the aisle to another dealer, and receive either a slight nod “yes” or a slight nod “no.”
Lying immediately lowers your grade and once it starts it is like PVC on a coin. 🤷♂️
I was at a coin show last Sunday. A dealer who I know and have done business with had some silver dollars for sale. I asked 'how much', he said $40 each. I asked if he could do any better if I bought 20 of them (a roll). He said 'yes' and quoted me a price. Was I haggling?
DPOTD-3
'Emancipate yourselves from mental slavery'
CU #3245 B.N.A. #428
Don
Yes.
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
No. You were negotiating. If you kept chiseling him on his price and became a pest, then you'd be haggling.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
I would have said "no", you were not haggling. The $40 was the price for one coin. You asked for the price on 20 coins to see if he had an unadvertised volume discount.
If you had tried to get him to go lower at that point then that would have been haggling. 🤑
I should add, I bought them at the price he quoted.
DPOTD-3
'Emancipate yourselves from mental slavery'
CU #3245 B.N.A. #428
Don
How many times have you bragged about paying full retail??
I prefer offer & counter offer. I will always ask for their best price and counter offer after that if I believe it is my best interest. Coin shows are like flea markets to me. No price is non-negatable.
USN & USAF retired 1971-1993
Successful Transactions with more than 100 Members
I'd rather not haggle but I understand that others like to, so I will engage them if that's their preference. If, however, somebody asks me for my best price and upon being given it, continues in an attempt to negotiate a lower price, we're almost certainly done.
I suspect dealers haggle amongst each other. Or is that a different situation.
Some dealers are incessant hagglers. But most dealer to dealer transactions don't involve much haggling as the bid/ask is generally known to both, they are both in the same business and play by the same basic rules, and they tend to have longer term relationship. Collectors with long term relationships with dealers also don't tend to haggle.
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
When I was a novice at the Bay state show the only time I set up there, a dealer came by with Bluesheet quotes to buy a $5 Indian in MS63 and I allowed myself to be intimidated and sell it at that. At shows you really have to have a show price labelling system among all the other things you need to do.
Sometimes wanting cash flow (setup) at shows just quote cost plus 5 or 10 pct or just $5 (over cost) to move inventory. If they buy fine. If not just sit there bored. I might then lock the display cases walk around the bourse room looking at stuff or get some coffee.
All of my stuff have cost and MV in code on back of item. Allows me flexibility in quoting prices, quick execution, and avoidance of giving something away.
As far as a bluesheet or low ball offer I just tell them “go find one.” I don’t care who they are. I am there for my agenda not theirs.
If your a newbie setup big gun players will try pick you off. Just stuff them in the backfield.
Signage:Prices firm,No haggling.😀
One situation is when I have a coin priced at $50 and it bids at $48, and someone asks "can I get a better price?". Sometimes, I will quote "how about $55" (a "better price" for me) and they accidentally agree.
Official PCGS account of:
www.TallahasseeCoinClub.com
I really haggle when buying furniture on consignment to find out what the lowest price the shop is able to agree upon. I hate paying the price my wife is happy paying. LOL.
I do not want to clutter up our house.
I had one show customer big spender who always wanted knock off 10 pct on what he picked out. So I just bumped up the price quote accordingly to offset that. Call that play student body left off the left hash lol.
It’s just all fun and games.
I don't believe you've ever gone to a show with coins to sell.
Or he went and brought them all home with him...
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
No, I don’t think he sells coins. I offered to buy anything he had if it was quality and he couldn’t produce a single coin. Just LOLs.
When asked what my best price is and then the potential buyer goes lower, that steams my beans. I normally tell them "i hope you find what you are looking for, at the price you are willing to pay."
BST transactions: dbldie55, jayPem, 78saen, UltraHighRelief, nibanny, liefgold, FallGuy, lkeigwin, mbogoman, Sandman70gt, keets, joeykoins, ianrussell (@GC), EagleEye, ThePennyLady, GRANDAM, Ilikecolor, Gluggo, okiedude, Voyageur, LJenkins11, fastfreddie, ms70, pursuitofliberty, ZoidMeister,Coin Finder, GotTheBug, edwardjulio, Coinnmore, Nickpatton, Namvet69,...
Yeah. That bugs me more than low ball offers. Don't ask me for my best price and then counter me lower.
I also hate when people tell me they are a military veteran as part of the negotiation. Not relevant
All comments reflect the opinion of the author, even when irrefutably accurate.
I know dealers have overhead. I believe many dealers do it on the side.
Not all but many.
I think it's a tough business to make money in.
Considering all the time and effort used to maintain an inventory.
There are giants in the trade but I think a large percent do it out of their passion of numismatics.
As far as haggling I think its a must to ask for a best price.
If the dealer says he cant do better, then it boils down to my knowledge of what im buying.
Most dealers will knock a few bucks off their price.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Dantheman984 Toyz4geo SurfinxHI greencopper RWW bigjpst bretsan MWallace logger7
@Morgan13 . Would you have any follow up information? Price range? size of discount? length of knowing dealer? etc. I am just curious because I have never done anything ever except pay the price asked. The only 2 exceptions in my life are David Lawrence and Northeast Numismatic. Both of them openly state they will entertain lower offers. At Northeast you have to look for coins where the price is underlined. I just bought a coin from David lawrence that way but don't remember the rules. Any information appreciated. James
@seatedlib3991 I do have a point of reference. Let's take Ebay for instance. Make an offer or I message them for a better price. I do it on the bourse floor.
Its not rude to ask.
Its more in the way its done.
I am also a firm believer that if you ask and a better price is given then you should be prepared to buy.
Passing after a discount is given is rude in my opinion.
This is how I do it.
Sometimes I am told "no discount" well then I usually say "im going to look around a bit". Let me think about it.
Student of numismatics and collector of Morgan dollars
Successful BST transactions with: Namvet Justindan Mattniss RWW olah_in_MA
Dantheman984 Toyz4geo SurfinxHI greencopper RWW bigjpst bretsan MWallace logger7
On the flip side is when you request a best price, get quoted one, pass, and then the dealer comes back with “are we close? Or “do you want to make an offer?”
A few years ago at FUN, I found a tough middle date large cent in the grade range I was seeking, in a dealer’s case that for the most part had much higher end material. His wife got it out of the case, I inspected it, it was all there, and the sticker on the back was $1700. This was close to price guide retail, but above auction records, but I was hopeful when I asked her for a best price. She looked at the code and came back with “we can sell this for $1200”. Now we were below auction records, but I maintained my poker face, but before I could say anything, the dealer got up, took it from his wife, said if you’re interested in it, you can have it for $1000 even. That made it a no-brainer, and I knew better than to haggle, as that was lower than I would have offered anyway. His only other large cent was a $50k wreath cent, so I assume he was just blowing it out to make it go away lol!
I don't mind being asked for my best price and having that offer declined. What I don't care for is an attempt at haggling to get a lower price after that.
C'mon man, if you can drop 500 bucks just like that then I know you can drop 500 more.
Sorry $500 off won't work for you, thanks for looking.
Thank you for your service.
On occasion while perusing a dealers wares/prices if asked by said dealer: Interested in anything? I politely respond"Too rich for my blood/budget". And depart. No hard feelings either way that way with a back and forth.