Opinions on vintage sports cards.
Yankees70
Posts: 715 ✭✭✭✭
My best friend just inherited some money and paid off his mortgage and credit card bills. He has about 30K left and decided to buy some vintage PSA 8 cards. He works with a dude who according to my friend has an incredible vintage PSA collection. I'm looking for opinions on what group of cards would you rather have. Since I don't have any photos let's assume that every card is pretty much similar in regards to corners, centering, printing defects, etc.
All cards are PSA 8's and are solid/high end 8's. He's selling both groups of cards for the same amount of money - $25K
Group 1 - All cards are Topps
1957 Ted Williams
1957 Clemente
1957 Mays
1957 Aaron
1957 Drysdale rookie
1957 Frank Robinson rookie
1957 Brooks Robinson rookie
Group 2 - All cards are Topps
1957 Drysdale rookie
1957 Frank Robinson rookie
1957 Brooks Robinson rookie
1959 Bob Gibson rookie
1960 McCovey rookie
1960 Yastrzemski rookie
1967 Seaver rookie
Comments
Nice problem to have.
I'd always go 'Rookies' first, but I'm a big Aaron/Clemente/Mays guy and those intrigue me more in this list.
Of the Group 2, the Gibson is the one I'd be super interested in having. I'd buy that group, keep the Gibby and BR rookies and sell the rest.
I like Group 1….because of Mays, Aaron (but don’t like a left handed batting Aaron), Williams and Clemente.
I have reduced my collection from 141 cards to now 63. In addition to iconic cards recently purchased/paid by consignment (Ruth, Gehrig, Jackie RC and Mantle RC)…I only have RCs of HOFs except Mantle (9 cards), Mays (7 cards), Koufax (7 cards), Aaron (5 cards), Clemente (5 cards). These five (5) players are iconic HOFs who will always be in demand.
I’m very happy where my collection is now….only looking to add a Willie Mays RC.
I definitely would lean Group 1. Nobody in Group 2 isnt good. But Ted Clemente Mays Aaron for me is exactly who I'd want from that year and then love Brooks and that card. Been looking at sales and Brooks and Aaron and Mays live in that 5K space in PSA 8 if I'm recalling correctly.
I would gladly choose to add that 57 Topps group to my collection. It's always been one of my favorite sets. However, paying off my mortgage several years ago outweighs the joy of owning any card.
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For investment purpose, I'd lean Group 1---- co-sign the 3 rookies to someone who consistently gets higher prices and pick-up a Mantle (same year) or throw down a couple thousand more for a '53 Bowman Color. For that kind of money I'd want to have a Mantle and 4 figure card for potential growth.
An 8 is an 8 regardless of corners, centering, printing defects, etc. !!!
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I would go with the rookies.
vintage HOF players have lots of later year cards, but only one rookie.
George Brett, Roger Clemens and Tommy Brady.
Group 1
As an investment - can't go wrong with Williams, Clemente, Mays and Aaron...
HOF's in the other group are somewhat "polarizing," HOF's still, but the collecting group might be a tad narrower...
sjjs28@comcast.net
Collector of Baseball Hall of Famer's and Stars, 1965 Embossed, 1968 Topps Game and 1969 Topps Decals
Registered Sets: 1965 Embossed, 1968 Topps Game, 1969 Topps Decals
I wholeheartedly disagree. A 6 or 7 with great centering and eye appeal can sell for more than a bad looking 8. Especially on cards that are often OC. Centering is actually key in this day and age so saying one lot is better than the other is really difficult to say.
Like I've said time and time again, my dream my whole adult life has been to do early 70 and then 60s sets...with the big cards in PSA 7 for 70s and PSA 6 (maybe 5) for 60s...you know, match the decade. PSA 8s are WAY too expensive and with the one exception of maybe 1971 (MAYBE) I doubt there's hardly a dime's worth of real difference between 8s vs 7s...well not at least 2x the price difference anyway...
But since it sounds like the OP's friend is content with singles rather than sets...I'd recommend he start with his favorite players (boyhood idol?) and/or team. Wow, if someday I ever got a five figure windfall I can only imagine seeing how far back I could go...
D's: 50P,49S,45D+S,43D,41S,40D,39D+S,38D+S,37D+S,36S,35D+S,all 16-34's
Q's: 52S,47S,46S,40S,39S,38S,37D+S,36D+S,35D,34D,32D+S
74T: 241,435,610,654 97 Finest silver: 115,135,139,145,310
73T:31,55,61,62,63,64,65,66,67,68,80,152,165,189,213,235,237,257,341,344,377,379,390,422,433,453,480,497,545,554,563,580,606,613,630
95 Ultra GM Sets: Golden Prospects,HR Kings,On-Base Leaders,Power Plus,RBI Kings,Rising Stars
Is he brand new to the hobby, or do groups 1 and 2 consist of white whales for him?
I like Group 1 better because of Clemente, Mays, and Aaron. That being said, I also think you should collect the players that you like.
buying O-Pee-Chee (OPC) baseball
Such a hard choice. Each of the guys in group 2 are hugely underappreciated, in my opinion. Each of them (well, except Drysdale) had massive numbers. I would love to have rookie cards of each. But, I'm like the rest of you - group 1 are the greats of the greats. They would be very hard to pass up.
Wow, talk about consistency...
Group 1 VCP average = $26,270
Group 2 VCP average = $26,262
I think those are very fair asks if they are solid to high end 8s. In fact, if he doesn't buy the Drysdale, F Robby, Aaron and Mays, I'd be interested in them. I need them for my set.
Group 1 w/o Mantle isn't that great of a deal... IMHO
10 - 15 K at most if all 8's
Williams & Robinson (F) are nice 8's at maybe 5K total
...advice "LOOK AROUND"
I vote group 2. Rookie cards are what everyone wants. The first group is more for a set collector or someone that likes a certain player.
1957 Topps #1 TED WILLIAMS, PSA 8, HOF Rare High Grade!
Buy US $999.00
Just look !!!!
1957 Topps #20 HANK AARON, PSA 7.5
Buy US $1650.00
6 bids
Time left, 8h - 34 mien
" JUST LOOK AROUND !!!!! " Not revealing my source here.
Great decision to have...you can't really lose here.
If the cards are going into his PC, then your friend should buy the cards that speak to him...favorite team, player, era, design, image, a baseball memory, etc.....whatever his collecting parameters are.
If his goal is to sell these years down the road, I'd go with Group 1 as the top 4 listed arguably get more "hobby love" / demand than the others.
At a 2005 price guide?
I looked. Took me about 5 seconds to discover that you're suggesting a card which is a PSA 8(OC) on eBay. It's worth significantly less than 5K because it's the equivalent of a PSA 6. The OP is being serious about seeking useful information. What you suggested is not.
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Craigslist. Meet them in the ally around the corner to consummate the deal. Only cash accepted.
@ElMagoStrikeZone said:
I looked. Took me about 5 seconds to discover that you're suggesting a card which is a PSA 8(OC) on eBay. It's worth significantly less than 5K because it's the equivalent of a PSA 6. The OP is being serious about seeking useful information. What you suggested is not.
WRONG .. you can buy PSA 6's all day long for less than $700.-
Don't confuse the collectors.
Where do you get your info that a PSA 8 (CC) is equivalent to a PSA 6 ? lololololol
Try spending 5 minutes next time, please.
Fred. You are irrefutably clueless. Take your act elsewhere.
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Oh, bless your little heart!
You must be so proud of that comment.
I could agree with you, but then we'd both be wrong.
No Fred. You're not funny. It's a shame that you need to disrupt a thread with your nonsense while several other members chime in with actual opinions or advice. What you do is just silly, adolescent behavior. Carry on kid.
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It's the singer not the song - Peter Townshend (1972)
No way a psa 8 Williams is 999.00
FRED -
🔍 What is a PSA 8 (OC)?
PSA 8 means the card is Near Mint-Mint condition.
The "(OC)" stands for "Off-Center" — meaning the card is too miscut to qualify as a straight PSA 8.
PSA adds the (OC) qualifier when centering drops below their standard for the grade.
Everything else (corners, edges, surface) is still up to PSA 8 standards.
🔍 What is a PSA 6?
PSA 6 is Excellent-Mint — a lower overall grade.
No qualifiers, meaning the card is judged in all categories including centering as fitting a 6.
🧠 So… are they the same?
Technically: No.
PSA 8 (OC) is better in all areas except centering.
PSA 6 may be slightly better centered, but has more wear or flaws.
In the market: Often similar in value, sometimes PSA 8 (OC) is even worth less than a PSA 6 if the centering is really bad — because centering is a big deal to some collectors.
💰 Value Tip:
Collectors who value sharp corners and clean surfaces might prefer an 8 (OC).
Collectors obsessed with centering will go for a straight 6.
Got to love AI and the answering of questions - FRED -
When comparing the market values of a 1957 Topps Ted Williams card graded PSA 8 (OC) versus PSA 6, the presence of the "OC" (Off-Center) qualifier significantly impacts the card's valuation.
📊 Market Value Comparison
PSA 6 (Excellent-Mint): Recent sales indicate that PSA 6 graded cards have sold for approximately $775 to $860 on platforms like eBay.
SportsCardsPro
PSA 8 (OC): While specific recent sales data for PSA 8 (OC) grades are limited, it's observed that the "OC" qualifier can reduce the card's value compared to a straight PSA 8. For instance, a PSA 9 (OC) sold for $1,034.40, which is significantly less than the $22,800 fetched by a PSA 9 without qualifiers. This suggests that a PSA 8 (OC) might be valued similarly to, or slightly less than, a PSA 6.
Graded Card Investor
+1
SCP Auctions
+1
🧠 Collector Considerations
Aesthetic Preferences: Collectors who prioritize sharp corners and surface quality might lean towards a PSA 8 (OC), accepting the centering flaw.
Centering Importance: Those who value perfect centering may prefer a PSA 6, even if it has more wear in other areas.
Investment Perspective: From an investment standpoint, cards without qualifiers generally hold value better over time.
In summary, while a PSA 8 (OC) has superior attributes in areas like corners and surface, the centering issue can bring its market value close to, or even below, that of a PSA 6. Collectors' preferences play a significant role in determining which grade is more desirable.
@carlclarktv
probably best not to "play chess with a pigeon".
Why is arguing with fools like playing chess with a pigeon? Because it doesn't matter how masterfully tutored you've been in the theory, how sound your critical thinking and strategy may be, or how good you are at the game in general, the pigeon is always going to knock over the chess pieces, crap on the board and strut around like it won anyway.
or as mentioned in the Bible:
Proverbs 29:9: If a wise man contend with a foolish man, whether he rage or laugh, there is no rest.
or:
Never wrestle with pigs. You both get dirty and the pig likes it - George Bernard Shaw
It's the singer not the song - Peter Townshend (1972)
I have heard that if the very first thing you notice in looking at a card is a negative , think very carefully about buying .
Good examples. I'll go with "screaming into the void". Or maybe like Mr. Hand teaching to an empty classroom at Ridgemont High.
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If the primary objective was to buy to flip to make money, I'd lean toward Group 2 since they're all rookies and there's some diversification in years.
A good comment above is there's only one rookie card.
As a collector, I may lean on Group 1 and then try to build out the rest of the set over time.
Erik
Group #1.