How long does it take for PVC to show on coins (weeks, months or years)?
Early_Milled_Latin_America
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I look my collection over once every few months I suppose that would allow to catch PVC early and treat it if need be.
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I imagine really bad PVC would take years? How about pitting on coins that as well I would imagine takes a long time to get to that point?
AI response:
PVC can begin to visibly damage coins fairly quickly, often within a few years, as it degrades and releases acidic chemicals. The visible signs of PVC damage include greenish, sticky residue, gray or milky spots, and possible permanent staining or corrosion on the coin, potentially reducing its value. The severity and speed of the damage can vary depending on the type of PVC and the storage conditions.
Here's a more detailed breakdown:
Early Signs:
PVC can start to off-gas acidic chemicals relatively soon after the coin is placed in the PVC holder, which can lead to discoloration and potential damage, even if the PVC doesn't visibly yellow or become brittle.
Visible Damage:
The green, sticky residue and other visible signs of damage (gray, milky spots, staining) are usually noticeable within a few years, but the specific timeframe can depend on the coin's material, the storage environment, and the type of PVC.
Severe Damage:
In some cases, the PVC can cause severe corrosion and damage, leading to significant value loss, within just a few years, especially if the PVC is old or of poor quality.
So I am OK looking my coins over about 3-4 times per year that will allow me to catch any PVC early and treat it fast wit acetone.
Decades?
It does in part depend on the storage environment. The thing that causes PVC damage is solvent migration of the phthalate plasticizers out of the PVC onto the coins, and the main thing that accelerates solvent migration is temperature: the hotter it gets, the faster the phthalaltes will move. So keep the coins cool but not so cool that moisture will condense on them if you take them out of their cool storage location.
Pressure also affects the migration rate: squeezing the plastic tightly causes faster migration that the plastic just sitting there, un-squeezed. So a big heavy coin album, sitting at the bottom of a drawer with a bunch of other big heavy coin albums stacked on top of it, is going to be worse-affected than a single coin album page sitting on a desk, or on the top of that pile of albums. And coins wedged tightly into an album page they barely fit into are likewise going to be worse off than a coin sitting quite loosely in a page.
Whether the damage then becomes evident and the extent of that damage then depends on what the coin is made of. The active agent in PVC damage is sulfuric acid, so the damage will depend on how badly the coin's alloy is attacked by sulfuric acid: .9999 gold and silver coins, not at all; 90% gold and silver, perhaps slightly; pure nickel, also slightly; cupronickel is slightly worse again, while 50% silver, copper, bronze and brass are going to be the worst affected.
Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius, "Meditations"
Apparently I have been awarded the DPOTD twice.
In the end it is not something to over worry about especially the mental time worrying. When it only tale 15-30 minutes to solve the problem with acetone. That is what I am learning with my OCD to keep it under control.
I will just look my coins as mentioned once every 3-4 months and if I see any PVC I will just deal with it.
I thought the worst that is my mind and OCD. But the worse rarely happens. All my coins are 90% silver or more.
Found these images before and after PVC was treated with acetone people rarely post before and after pics on the forum so these ease my mind how well acetone works:
I saw another video guy had a coin since 1982 in a PVC sleeve he took it out in 2022 so 40 years later and hit had minimal milky areas and that was all. Was a silver dollar.
PVC is extremely difficult to observe. Often it is just a very slight haze on a coin.
It doesn't seem to show up under outdoor lighting, overhead ceiling lighting, or soft incandescent light. If you are also collecting U.S. silver coins, send some of those coins without CACs to CAC and ask them to identify those with PVC. Once you have examples of coins with PVC, try comparing those coins with your other coins under bright, indirect sunlight; i.e., a skylight. It's not easy.
Thanks what I will look out for is the green or milky areas.
Here is an example of a coin that did not pass CAC. It had PVC on the obverse. PVC does not always show up in pictures.
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It would take a long time for any affects to show. Best advice, don't store coins in PVC!
God comes first in everything I do. I’m dedicated to serving Him with my whole life. Coin collecting is just a hobby—but even in that, I seek to honor Him. ✝️
It sounds like you are storing your coins in PVC coin holders. If so, why not use non-PVC holders for your coins?
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
Just use non PVC holders and there is no need to worry.
If you are not storing your coins in PVC, it will never develop. It's either there now or it's not. Rinse in acetone once and stop looking.
I store my raw coins in chemical free white 2X2 paper flips. These are great for silver and copper coins. They were recommended to me by a prominent colonial dealer. They are a bit more expensive than cheap flips, but I don’t have to worry about PVC, etc.
I never heard of paper flips. Did you mean mylar flips or white paper envelopes?
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
There could be a potential problem with “paper envelopes” because they would tend to attract and hold any moisture in the air. The best thing is to use archival flips stored inside something such as Intercept Shield.
"Those who would give up essential Liberty, to purchase a little temporary Safety, deserve neither Liberty nor Safety," --- Benjamin Franklin
No they are all Mylar (cardboard with clear Mylar window & also Saflips). It is just a habit of mine to look at them every 3-4 months to make sure all is OK (OCD thing).
The problem with the 2X2 cardboard holders is there's usually cardboard dust on the windows from the manufacturing process that can cause spotting on coins especially on proof copper coins. I suggest wiping them off with a clean cotton cloth or blow them off with compressed air before you use them.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
I am in the process of replacing them all with Saflips. I ordered my Saflips the other day and just waiting for them to be delivered. I will only be using Salips moving forward. The ones made in Ohio (USA) are the ones I buy. I just have to let my coins dry after acetone bath longer since I do not want it to affect the Saflips if done to soon and stored. That is fine will let my coins dry for 24-48 hours (most likely to long but I rather that) before storing them.
Tough to predict. Have seen it happen fairly quickly. If u sent it in using pvc flips …..
Probably the cardboard gold over with mylar windows.
By the way they are MADE OF NOTHING BUT CHEMICALS!!!
😏
Saflips are nice. You can seal them with one of these if you want to be extra careful.
https://a.co/d/5zdZP2t
Coin Photographer and Videographer
https://www.youtube.com/@FriendlyEagle7
Saflips are a great product that won't hurt your coins but be careful inserting or removing proof coins. Most people use the 2"X2" size Saflips rather than the 2.5"X2.5" you have shown.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire