@Mr_Spud said:
I think yspsales is right. Here’s the pertinent coin section next to the 2BU VAM attribution pick up point photos.
Thanks for pointing that out. Rechecked the coin it is definitely that variety. Would never had thought maybe that’s why coin was bid up so much. Still don’t understand the toning. Looks like coin was dipped in a gold solution. Toning is so even and smooth without any hint of former white surfaces. Like it was almost minted in gold
@Mr_Spud said:
I think yspsales is right. Here’s the pertinent coin section next to the 2BU VAM attribution pick up point photos.
Thanks for pointing that out. Rechecked the coin it is definitely that variety. Would never had thought maybe that’s why coin was bid up so much. Still don’t understand the toning. Looks like coin was dipped in a gold solution. Toning is so even and smooth without any hint of former white surfaces. Like it was almost minted in gold
You’ve made it clear that you “don’t understand the toning”. Once or if you have seen hundreds or thousands of examples, like some who have replied to this thread, you will understand that the color is not particularly unusual.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
@Mr_Spud said:
I think yspsales is right. Here’s the pertinent coin section next to the 2BU VAM attribution pick up point photos.
Thanks for pointing that out. Rechecked the coin it is definitely that variety. Would never had thought maybe that’s why coin was bid up so much. Still don’t understand the toning. Looks like coin was dipped in a gold solution. Toning is so even and smooth without any hint of former white surfaces. Like it was almost minted in gold
You’ve made it clear that you “don’t understand the toning”. Once or if you have seen hundreds or thousands of examples, like some who have replied to this thread, you will understand that the color is not particularly unusual.
Okay I understand your point. first time seeing this particular type of toning in a silver coin.
"As with other issues in the series, coins are typically found with a light golden patina covering the surfaces."
from Roger Burdette's "A Guide Book of Peace Dollars"
Seated Half Society member #38 "Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
$145 is a LOT of money for a widget. You may or may not have been bailed out by the fact that it is a specific VAM, but the toning will not factor into the premium here, as "light gold" is very common on Peace Dollars and undesirable to a lot of people.
@jerseycat101 said:
$145 is a LOT of money for a widget. You may or may not have been bailed out by the fact that it is a specific VAM, but the toning will not factor into the premium here, as "light gold" is very common on Peace Dollars and undesirable to a lot of people.
I am very happy with the very strong gold patina as it is very lusterous and eye appealing to me . I like the difference from a white coin. Also it is very moderate marks for a 64 imo. So if I don’t upgrade to a 65 I am not taking the loss. Maybe pcgs cross with the vam attribution
"As with other issues in the series, coins are typically found with a light golden patina covering the surfaces."
from Roger Burdette's "A Guide Book of Peace Dollars"
This coin has a pretty strong gold patina, not light at all. Very lusterous and no hint of any white silver at all
@yspsales said:
Just looked at realized final prices in the PCGS price guide.
$145 is about middle of the pack.
Might require some patience if you go to sell, I think you have little downside.
Now... go find two more slabbed VAMs for $80 and you paid for the first one.
The last several that sold on Ebay brought $80 or less.
Probably Ebay coins mostly C quality for grade. I feel my coin A quality for grade regardless of Vam designation. Eye appeal gorgeous when viewed in hand, much better than photo posted. Still I do feel like I overpaid but not as much as you are saying
@Rubicon said:
Probably Ebay coins mostly C quality for grade. I feel my coin A quality for grade regardless of Vam designation. Eye appeal gorgeous when viewed in hand, much better than photo posted. Still I do feel like I overpaid but not as much as you are saying
Let me get this straight. You overpaid for a coin. You start a thread asking if you overpaid. Everyone basically tells you that you overpaid. Then, you spend the remainder of the thread trying to justify the purchase and imply you did not overpay?
Let me get this straight. You overpaid for a coin. You start a thread asking if you overpaid. Everyone basically tells you that you overpaid. Then, you spend the remainder of the thread trying to justify the purchase and imply you did not overpay?
Sounds like my inner dialogue after most purchases.
@Rubicon -
You don't know me, so I'll identify myself as one of the folks that started NGC 35 years ago.
I know how to grade. You have much to learn.
Here's how.
For starters, get a free membership to ha.com and use their Archives.
You can refine your search to 1922P $1 MS65 and select NGC, PCGS or any combination of grading services
You will see 50 MS65 1922P $1's on one page. And many pages of them. Compare the marks, the color, the strike. Those pictures are worth much more than any comments you read here.
"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf." - Geo. Orwell
@ColonelJessup said: @Rubicon -
You don't know me, so I'll identify myself as one of the folks that started NGC 35 years ago.
I know how to grade. You have much to learn.
Here's how.
For starters, get a free membership to ha.com and use their Archives.
You can refine your search to 1922P $1 MS65 and select NGC, PCGS or any combination of grading services
You will see 50 MS65 1922P $1's on one page. And many pages of them. Compare the marks, the color, the strike. Those pictures are worth much more than any comments you read here.
Let me get this straight. You overpaid for a coin. You start a thread asking if you overpaid. Everyone basically tells you that you overpaid. Then, you spend the remainder of the thread trying to justify the purchase and imply you did not overpay?
Sounds like my inner dialogue after most purchases.
Yes I regret asking if I overpaid. Was trying to justify to myself getting into a bidding war. I am very happy with the coin not the high premium paid, but still glad I bought it anyway. Rather overpay for beautiful coin than buy a medium coin cheap
@ColonelJessup said: @Rubicon -
You don't know me, so I'll identify myself as one of the folks that started NGC 35 years ago.
I know how to grade. You have much to learn.
Here's how.
For starters, get a free membership to ha.com and use their Archives.
You can refine your search to 1922P $1 MS65 and select NGC, PCGS, or any combination of grading services
You will see 50 MS65 1922P $1's on one page. And many pages of them. Compare the marks, the color, the strike. Those pictures are worth much more than any comments you read here.
I've been collecting now for 50+ years, and this advice works for me too.
@kaz said:
No comment on the coin, but I like the thread title!
Only thing I didn’t make clear is how beautiful the coin in hand was in terms of the gold combined with the luster and close to 65 in terms of marks. This is my opinion backed up by an expert advisor at the coin company who really liked the coin
Unless the coin has unusual (read as irreplaceable or near irreplaceable) eye appeal, I would never pay a premium for such a common coin in a common grade.
Let me get this straight. You overpaid for a coin. You start a thread asking if you overpaid. Everyone basically tells you that you overpaid. Then, you spend the remainder of the thread trying to justify the purchase and imply you did not overpay?
Sounds like my inner dialogue after most purchases.
Yes I regret asking if I overpaid. Was trying to justify to myself getting into a bidding war. I am very happy with the coin not the high premium paid, but still glad I bought it anyway. Rather overpay for beautiful coin than buy a medium coin cheap
With all due respect--and this is what everyone has been pointing out--it is certainly fine to overpay for a beautiful coin, but it has to be the right beautiful coin. When there are tons of examples that will be just as nice and not cost anywhere near as much, there's no reason to overpay. When a coin is truly special for what it is, then it's worth spending up. For a common date that doesn't have a major price spread between grades, special means it has some unique aspect to its eye appeal that is off the charts--spectacular toning, for Morgans extra thick frost on a DMPL, extraordinary lustre. When a coin is really nice, but so are tons of others that can easily be found, overpaying just means paying too much.
Let me get this straight. You overpaid for a coin. You start a thread asking if you overpaid. Everyone basically tells you that you overpaid. Then, you spend the remainder of the thread trying to justify the purchase and imply you did not overpay?
Sounds like my inner dialogue after most purchases.
Yes I regret asking if I overpaid. Was trying to justify to myself getting into a bidding war. I am very happy with the coin not the high premium paid, but still glad I bought it anyway. Rather overpay for beautiful coin than buy a medium coin cheap
With all due respect--and this is what everyone has been pointing out--it is certainly fine to overpay for a beautiful coin, but it has to be the right beautiful coin. When there are tons of examples that will be just as nice and not cost anywhere near as much, there's no reason to overpay. When a coin is truly special for what it is, then it's worth spending up. For a common date that doesn't have a major price spread between grades, special means it has some unique aspect to its eye appeal that is off the charts--spectacular toning, for Morgans extra thick frost on a DMPL, extraordinary lustre. When a coin is really nice, but so are tons of others that can easily be found, overpaying just means paying too much.
Your point is well taken and appreciated. I know I paid an excessive price. But I need to look at many more peace dollars and see if the coin is as readily available as you are claiming. So the requirements are it has to have a strong gold tone or some other pretty eye catching color, exceptional luster, reasonably good strike and be close in marks to the next grade. If I can find coins that are comparable in ms 64 without much effort you are absolutely correct. I think most will not fit this bill. I will research further and get back to you on this thread or a future one. Thanks for your input.
Let me get this straight. You overpaid for a coin. You start a thread asking if you overpaid. Everyone basically tells you that you overpaid. Then, you spend the remainder of the thread trying to justify the purchase and imply you did not overpay?
Sounds like my inner dialogue after most purchases.
Yes I regret asking if I overpaid. Was trying to justify to myself getting into a bidding war. I am very happy with the coin not the high premium paid, but still glad I bought it anyway. Rather overpay for beautiful coin than buy a medium coin cheap
With all due respect--and this is what everyone has been pointing out--it is certainly fine to overpay for a beautiful coin, but it has to be the right beautiful coin. When there are tons of examples that will be just as nice and not cost anywhere near as much, there's no reason to overpay. When a coin is truly special for what it is, then it's worth spending up. For a common date that doesn't have a major price spread between grades, special means it has some unique aspect to its eye appeal that is off the charts--spectacular toning, for Morgans extra thick frost on a DMPL, extraordinary lustre. When a coin is really nice, but so are tons of others that can easily be found, overpaying just means paying too much.
Your point is well taken and appreciated. I know I paid an excessive price. But I need to look at many more peace dollars and see if the coin is as readily available as you are claiming. So the requirements are it has to have a strong gold tone or some other pretty eye catching color, exceptional luster, reasonably good strike and be close in marks to the next grade. If I can find coins that are comparable in ms 64 without much effort you are absolutely correct. I think most will not fit this bill. I will research further and get back to you on this thread or a future one. Thanks for your input.
He’s not just claiming, he knows from many years of experience, as do others who have posted here, trying to be helpful. It’s great that you appreciate the coin as much as you do. But it’s not nearly as unusual or special as you think it is.
PCGS has graded more than 54,000 MS64 1922 Peace dollars and more than 230,000 MS64’s for all dates in the series.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Let me get this straight. You overpaid for a coin. You start a thread asking if you overpaid. Everyone basically tells you that you overpaid. Then, you spend the remainder of the thread trying to justify the purchase and imply you did not overpay?
Sounds like my inner dialogue after most purchases.
Yes I regret asking if I overpaid. Was trying to justify to myself getting into a bidding war. I am very happy with the coin not the high premium paid, but still glad I bought it anyway. Rather overpay for beautiful coin than buy a medium coin cheap
With all due respect--and this is what everyone has been pointing out--it is certainly fine to overpay for a beautiful coin, but it has to be the right beautiful coin. When there are tons of examples that will be just as nice and not cost anywhere near as much, there's no reason to overpay. When a coin is truly special for what it is, then it's worth spending up. For a common date that doesn't have a major price spread between grades, special means it has some unique aspect to its eye appeal that is off the charts--spectacular toning, for Morgans extra thick frost on a DMPL, extraordinary lustre. When a coin is really nice, but so are tons of others that can easily be found, overpaying just means paying too much.
Your point is well taken and appreciated. I know I paid an excessive price. But I need to look at many more peace dollars and see if the coin is as readily available as you are claiming. So the requirements are it has to have a strong gold tone or some other pretty eye catching color, exceptional luster, reasonably good strike and be close in marks to the next grade. If I can find coins that are comparable in ms 64 without much effort you are absolutely correct. I think most will not fit this bill. I will research further and get back to you on this thread or a future one. Thanks for your input.
So to be clear, your argument is that you bought a coin before doing any research, and now that countless people have told you the same thing, you’ll start doing that research to see if what everyone is saying is true?
I’d also add that “without much effort” is a poor standard for most any coin. Regardless of the price you pay, putting in some real effort—not just buying something because it’s available when you happen to be looking—will net you much better coins. Of course, the more homework you do up front, the less you’ll have to do when it counts. The ideal is to see the right coin and know it’s the right coin, with education and experience to back up that knowledge. But unless you get lucky, jumping in blind is usually a losing strategy.
Let me get this straight. You overpaid for a coin. You start a thread asking if you overpaid. Everyone basically tells you that you overpaid. Then, you spend the remainder of the thread trying to justify the purchase and imply you did not overpay?
Sounds like my inner dialogue after most purchases.
Yes I regret asking if I overpaid. Was trying to justify to myself getting into a bidding war. I am very happy with the coin not the high premium paid, but still glad I bought it anyway. Rather overpay for beautiful coin than buy a medium coin cheap
With all due respect--and this is what everyone has been pointing out--it is certainly fine to overpay for a beautiful coin, but it has to be the right beautiful coin. When there are tons of examples that will be just as nice and not cost anywhere near as much, there's no reason to overpay. When a coin is truly special for what it is, then it's worth spending up. For a common date that doesn't have a major price spread between grades, special means it has some unique aspect to its eye appeal that is off the charts--spectacular toning, for Morgans extra thick frost on a DMPL, extraordinary lustre. When a coin is really nice, but so are tons of others that can easily be found, overpaying just means paying too much.
Your point is well taken and appreciated. I know I paid an excessive price. But I need to look at many more peace dollars and see if the coin is as readily available as you are claiming. So the requirements are it has to have a strong gold tone or some other pretty eye catching color, exceptional luster, reasonably good strike and be close in marks to the next grade. If I can find coins that are comparable in ms 64 without much effort you are absolutely correct. I think most will not fit this bill. I will research further and get back to you on this thread or a future one. Thanks for your input.
Well, now that you're being so specific, you're right, those qualifiers will really narrow down your search for equivalent coins!! 👍
Add that they have to be in NGC holders with certification numbers starting with 249712 and there micht be only a roll or two of MS 64 1922 peace dollars to choose from 🤔😉
It's a nice enough coin and you did okay if you love it as you seem to. Trying to convince us all or get us to say it more emphatically, surprisingly hasn't yet run it's course but congrats on getting so much dialogue. Additional insisting may start to backfire on you though. Consensus has been reached. ✔
Lightly toned gold Peace Dollars can be found by the several dozen at any coin shop or bourse. Not all toning adds value. Some is neutral or detracts. The toning on yours is neutral.
Wish I didn’t start this thread. Seriously I don’t really need to bail out LOL. I am okay with this coin was just looking for some affirmation. I do thank you kindly for the Vam attribution. Maybe I will submit to pcgs crossover for Vam attribution if they will do it as all my coins are pcgs and I made an exception for the Ngc holder because I liked the coin although the Ngc holder brings out the gold look in the coin.
Let me get this straight. You overpaid for a coin. You start a thread asking if you overpaid. Everyone basically tells you that you overpaid. Then, you spend the remainder of the thread trying to justify the purchase and imply you did not overpay?
Sounds like my inner dialogue after most purchases.
Yes I regret asking if I overpaid. Was trying to justify to myself getting into a bidding war. I am very happy with the coin not the high premium paid, but still glad I bought it anyway. Rather overpay for beautiful coin than buy a medium coin cheap
With all due respect--and this is what everyone has been pointing out--it is certainly fine to overpay for a beautiful coin, but it has to be the right beautiful coin. When there are tons of examples that will be just as nice and not cost anywhere near as much, there's no reason to overpay. When a coin is truly special for what it is, then it's worth spending up. For a common date that doesn't have a major price spread between grades, special means it has some unique aspect to its eye appeal that is off the charts--spectacular toning, for Morgans extra thick frost on a DMPL, extraordinary lustre. When a coin is really nice, but so are tons of others that can easily be found, overpaying just means paying too much.
Your point is well taken and appreciated. I know I paid an excessive price. But I need to look at many more peace dollars and see if the coin is as readily available as you are claiming. So the requirements are it has to have a strong gold tone or some other pretty eye catching color, exceptional luster, reasonably good strike and be close in marks to the next grade. If I can find coins that are comparable in ms 64 without much effort you are absolutely correct. I think most will not fit this bill. I will research further and get back to you on this thread or a future one. Thanks for your input.
Well, now that you're being so specific, you're right, those qualifiers will really narrow down your search for equivalent coins!! 👍
Add that they have to be in NGC holders with certification numbers starting with 249712 and there micht be only a roll or two of MS 64 1922 peace dollars to choose from 🤔😉
It's a nice enough coin and you did okay if you love it as you seem to. Trying to convince us all or get us to say it more emphatically, surprisingly hasn't yet run it's course but congrats on getting so much dialogue. Additional insisting may start to backfire on you though. Consensus has been reached. ✔
@yspsales said:
VAM's are probably the least understood and most undervalued coins you can buy.
All dollars are a VAM of some sort. As for value- except for a few of the most popular varieties, nobody wants to pay for them, they prefer to find unattributed examples and pay the generic price for the date/mint.
@yspsales said:
VAM's are probably the least understood and most undervalued coins you can buy.
What makes them so valuable if there are hundreds of them? My 2BU isn’t even in the top 100 even though it has a big extra spike by the eagle
I find it hard to believe that VAMs are meaningfully undervalued, in the sense that the price prospects are noticeably more favorable than the series as a generic date/MM. This is even more true for Peace versus Morgan dollars.
It's been my assumption for a long time that the most common dates for both series (like the 1922) are predominantly owned for financial reasons, including by many who aren't even collectors.
Peace dollars are a lot cheaper than Morgan dollars both as a series and for most of the individual dates. The lower cost makes it more feasible to collect by VAM but there is no reason to believe that very many collectors find die variety collecting of either series interesting enough where the price of more than a very low proportion will increase a lot more than the series generically.
This is different than someone buying a coin like you did and "cherry picking" a scarcer VAM at a low or no premium. Many will do that.
A VAM makes a Morgan or Peace dollar more interesting to look at and makes it easier to overlook minor problems because they are cooler than non VAMs, but not hugely more valuable unless someone is going after a collection of VAMs and needs a certain one and they don’t have the patience to wait for one to cherry pick. But it makes a common coin more desirable, like if I had a choice between a VAM and a non VAM for a similar price i’d rather buy the VAM and would be less likely to try and negotiate the price down. It’s similar to getting a coin that is a variety, like a repunched date or some hub doubling, if you are a Type Set collector. You don’t have to be into collecting every variety available to appreciate that it has an attribute that makes it cooler, it’s like a bonus feature or something like that.
Well you came to the right place to learn about coins, 1st thing is to have thick skin when some tell you something that you ask for take it to hart they are trying to help you get the right coin at the right price. They have nothing to gain telling you to look for the best deal just trying to help. It’s hard to sallow but it is the truth you may have found a better grade coin and nicer for the price. But you did learn something here if not 100% you did get a good deal don’t post or ask for a opinion if you don’t like what your going to get. If you are new to coin collecting every one here can help you do the right thing. In some way or another. Look at the coin every day and see what makes it a MS64 then when you see one that looks nicer raw that you can buy for less buy it because you will know it’s a better and higher grade coin. Happy collecting and be safe.
@Type2 said:
Well you came to the right place to learn about coins, 1st thing is to have thick skin when some tell you something that you ask for take it to hart they are trying to help you get the right coin at the right price. They have nothing to gain telling you to look for the best deal just trying to help. It’s hard to sallow but it is the truth you may have found a better grade coin and nicer for the price. But you did learn something here if not 100% you did get a good deal don’t post or ask for a opinion if you don’t like what your going to get. If you are new to coin collecting every one here can help you do the right thing. In some way or another. Look at the coin every day and see what makes it a MS64 then when you see one that looks nicer raw that you can buy for less buy it because you will know it’s a better and higher grade coin. Happy collecting and be safe.
Thanks for your feedback. Not a new collector but haven’t see that many coins in person since the 60’s. I have seen hundreds of coins on auction and coin company sites. I have a keen eye though and good instinct. I have some degree of confidence and have been fortunate to make some great purchases without any significant premium paid. . Much to learn and greatfull for the good advice of the advanced, experienced collectors on this forum.
@yspsales said:
No different than wanting to know Overton or Snow varieties.
R5 means there are 40 to 60 examples.
At MS64 and above there might be a half dozen.
Only a dedicated search will tell you how many exist.
If you find three more this weekend then you overpaid.
It is totally different than collecting Sheldon or Overton varieties as it's evident a noticeable proportion of the collector base for early large cents and early halves (especially Bust halves) find it interesting enough where it's reflected in the price level.
Comments
I think yspsales is right. Here’s the pertinent coin section next to the 2BU VAM attribution pick up point photos.
Mr_Spud
Thanks for pointing that out. Rechecked the coin it is definitely that variety. Would never had thought maybe that’s why coin was bid up so much. Still don’t understand the toning. Looks like coin was dipped in a gold solution. Toning is so even and smooth without any hint of former white surfaces. Like it was almost minted in gold
You’ve made it clear that you “don’t understand the toning”. Once or if you have seen hundreds or thousands of examples, like some who have replied to this thread, you will understand that the color is not particularly unusual.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Okay I understand your point. first time seeing this particular type of toning in a silver coin.
See it again (different date)
Re your 1922-P:
"As with other issues in the series, coins are typically found with a light golden patina covering the surfaces."
from Roger Burdette's "A Guide Book of Peace Dollars"
"Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
$145 is a LOT of money for a widget. You may or may not have been bailed out by the fact that it is a specific VAM, but the toning will not factor into the premium here, as "light gold" is very common on Peace Dollars and undesirable to a lot of people.
I am very happy with the very strong gold patina as it is very lusterous and eye appealing to me . I like the difference from a white coin. Also it is very moderate marks for a 64 imo. So if I don’t upgrade to a 65 I am not taking the loss. Maybe pcgs cross with the vam attribution
This coin has a pretty strong gold patina, not light at all. Very lusterous and no hint of any white silver at all
Just looked at realized final prices in the PCGS price guide.
$145 is about middle of the pack.
Might require some patience if you go to sell, I think you have little downside.
Now... go find two more slabbed VAMs for $80 and you paid for the first one.
BST: KindaNewish (3/21/21), WQuarterFreddie (3/30/21), Meltdown (4/6/21), DBSTrader2 (5/5/21) AKA- unclemonkey on Blow Out
The last several that sold on Ebay brought $80 or less.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Probably Ebay coins mostly C quality for grade. I feel my coin A quality for grade regardless of Vam designation. Eye appeal gorgeous when viewed in hand, much better than photo posted. Still I do feel like I overpaid but not as much as you are saying
Let me get this straight. You overpaid for a coin. You start a thread asking if you overpaid. Everyone basically tells you that you overpaid. Then, you spend the remainder of the thread trying to justify the purchase and imply you did not overpay?
Sounds like my inner dialogue after most purchases.
@Rubicon -
You don't know me, so I'll identify myself as one of the folks that started NGC 35 years ago.
I know how to grade. You have much to learn.
Here's how.
For starters, get a free membership to ha.com and use their Archives.
You can refine your search to 1922P $1 MS65 and select NGC, PCGS or any combination of grading services
You will see 50 MS65 1922P $1's on one page. And many pages of them. Compare the marks, the color, the strike. Those pictures are worth much more than any comments you read here.
Thanks for the advice
Yes I regret asking if I overpaid. Was trying to justify to myself getting into a bidding war. I am very happy with the coin not the high premium paid, but still glad I bought it anyway. Rather overpay for beautiful coin than buy a medium coin cheap
I've been collecting now for 50+ years, and this advice works for me too.
peacockcoins
No comment on the coin, but I like the thread title!
Only thing I didn’t make clear is how beautiful the coin in hand was in terms of the gold combined with the luster and close to 65 in terms of marks. This is my opinion backed up by an expert advisor at the coin company who really liked the coin
Unless the coin has unusual (read as irreplaceable or near irreplaceable) eye appeal, I would never pay a premium for such a common coin in a common grade.
With all due respect--and this is what everyone has been pointing out--it is certainly fine to overpay for a beautiful coin, but it has to be the right beautiful coin. When there are tons of examples that will be just as nice and not cost anywhere near as much, there's no reason to overpay. When a coin is truly special for what it is, then it's worth spending up. For a common date that doesn't have a major price spread between grades, special means it has some unique aspect to its eye appeal that is off the charts--spectacular toning, for Morgans extra thick frost on a DMPL, extraordinary lustre. When a coin is really nice, but so are tons of others that can easily be found, overpaying just means paying too much.
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
Your point is well taken and appreciated. I know I paid an excessive price. But I need to look at many more peace dollars and see if the coin is as readily available as you are claiming. So the requirements are it has to have a strong gold tone or some other pretty eye catching color, exceptional luster, reasonably good strike and be close in marks to the next grade. If I can find coins that are comparable in ms 64 without much effort you are absolutely correct. I think most will not fit this bill. I will research further and get back to you on this thread or a future one. Thanks for your input.
He’s not just claiming, he knows from many years of experience, as do others who have posted here, trying to be helpful. It’s great that you appreciate the coin as much as you do. But it’s not nearly as unusual or special as you think it is.
PCGS has graded more than 54,000 MS64 1922 Peace dollars and more than 230,000 MS64’s for all dates in the series.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
So to be clear, your argument is that you bought a coin before doing any research, and now that countless people have told you the same thing, you’ll start doing that research to see if what everyone is saying is true?
I’d also add that “without much effort” is a poor standard for most any coin. Regardless of the price you pay, putting in some real effort—not just buying something because it’s available when you happen to be looking—will net you much better coins. Of course, the more homework you do up front, the less you’ll have to do when it counts. The ideal is to see the right coin and know it’s the right coin, with education and experience to back up that knowledge. But unless you get lucky, jumping in blind is usually a losing strategy.
Well, now that you're being so specific, you're right, those qualifiers will really narrow down your search for equivalent coins!! 👍
Add that they have to be in NGC holders with certification numbers starting with 249712 and there micht be only a roll or two of MS 64 1922 peace dollars to choose from 🤔😉
It's a nice enough coin and you did okay if you love it as you seem to. Trying to convince us all or get us to say it more emphatically, surprisingly hasn't yet run it's course but congrats on getting so much dialogue. Additional insisting may start to backfire on you though. Consensus has been reached. ✔
Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry
Lightly toned gold Peace Dollars can be found by the several dozen at any coin shop or bourse. Not all toning adds value. Some is neutral or detracts. The toning on yours is neutral.
I will bail you out.
Sell it to me.
BST: KindaNewish (3/21/21), WQuarterFreddie (3/30/21), Meltdown (4/6/21), DBSTrader2 (5/5/21) AKA- unclemonkey on Blow Out
Wish I didn’t start this thread. Seriously I don’t really need to bail out LOL. I am okay with this coin was just looking for some affirmation. I do thank you kindly for the Vam attribution. Maybe I will submit to pcgs crossover for Vam attribution if they will do it as all my coins are pcgs and I made an exception for the Ngc holder because I liked the coin although the Ngc holder brings out the gold look in the coin.
Sure agreed. Next thread!
VAM's are probably the least understood and most undervalued coins you can buy.
BST: KindaNewish (3/21/21), WQuarterFreddie (3/30/21), Meltdown (4/6/21), DBSTrader2 (5/5/21) AKA- unclemonkey on Blow Out
What makes them so valuable if there are hundreds of them? My 2BU isn’t even in the top 100 even though it has a big extra spike by the eagle
“Undervalued” and “so valuable” are far from the same thing.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
All dollars are a VAM of some sort. As for value- except for a few of the most popular varieties, nobody wants to pay for them, they prefer to find unattributed examples and pay the generic price for the date/mint.
I find it hard to believe that VAMs are meaningfully undervalued, in the sense that the price prospects are noticeably more favorable than the series as a generic date/MM. This is even more true for Peace versus Morgan dollars.
It's been my assumption for a long time that the most common dates for both series (like the 1922) are predominantly owned for financial reasons, including by many who aren't even collectors.
Peace dollars are a lot cheaper than Morgan dollars both as a series and for most of the individual dates. The lower cost makes it more feasible to collect by VAM but there is no reason to believe that very many collectors find die variety collecting of either series interesting enough where the price of more than a very low proportion will increase a lot more than the series generically.
This is different than someone buying a coin like you did and "cherry picking" a scarcer VAM at a low or no premium. Many will do that.
A VAM makes a Morgan or Peace dollar more interesting to look at and makes it easier to overlook minor problems because they are cooler than non VAMs, but not hugely more valuable unless someone is going after a collection of VAMs and needs a certain one and they don’t have the patience to wait for one to cherry pick. But it makes a common coin more desirable, like if I had a choice between a VAM and a non VAM for a similar price i’d rather buy the VAM and would be less likely to try and negotiate the price down. It’s similar to getting a coin that is a variety, like a repunched date or some hub doubling, if you are a Type Set collector. You don’t have to be into collecting every variety available to appreciate that it has an attribute that makes it cooler, it’s like a bonus feature or something like that.
Mr_Spud
No different than wanting to know Overton or Snow varieties.
R5 means there are 40 to 60 examples.
At MS64 and above there might be a half dozen.
Only a dedicated search will tell you how many exist.
If you find three more this weekend then you overpaid.
BST: KindaNewish (3/21/21), WQuarterFreddie (3/30/21), Meltdown (4/6/21), DBSTrader2 (5/5/21) AKA- unclemonkey on Blow Out
All Morgan & Peace dollars are Vam's. Vam's are die pairings.
Some Vam's are worth more but most do not add a premium.
R values like R5 are a best guess at rarity at the time of discovery and don't always reflect true availability.
Clashes on Peace dollars that show a shoulder spike are very common.
Well you came to the right place to learn about coins, 1st thing is to have thick skin when some tell you something that you ask for take it to hart they are trying to help you get the right coin at the right price. They have nothing to gain telling you to look for the best deal just trying to help. It’s hard to sallow but it is the truth you may have found a better grade coin and nicer for the price. But you did learn something here if not 100% you did get a good deal don’t post or ask for a opinion if you don’t like what your going to get. If you are new to coin collecting every one here can help you do the right thing. In some way or another. Look at the coin every day and see what makes it a MS64 then when you see one that looks nicer raw that you can buy for less buy it because you will know it’s a better and higher grade coin. Happy collecting and be safe.
Hoard the keys.
Thanks for your feedback. Not a new collector but haven’t see that many coins in person since the 60’s. I have seen hundreds of coins on auction and coin company sites. I have a keen eye though and good instinct. I have some degree of confidence and have been fortunate to make some great purchases without any significant premium paid. . Much to learn and greatfull for the good advice of the advanced, experienced collectors on this forum.
It is totally different than collecting Sheldon or Overton varieties as it's evident a noticeable proportion of the collector base for early large cents and early halves (especially Bust halves) find it interesting enough where it's reflected in the price level.
When the dust settles within the next couple of days, this coin will be quietly and discreetly returned to the seller for a refund.
peacockcoins