If you love the coin that's all that matters, and I would leave it in the holder as is. You can always send it in to our hosts, next year, 5 years, 10 years from now to see if it'll bump up a grade. Keep it as is and enjoy it is my opinion.
I sense a pattern with the OP in that he buys a coin, posts it here, becomes dissatisfied due to the board's response that provides opinion/education, and the OP eventually sells the coin with a loss.
Better to buy the coin in a top tier holder w/CAC. At least then, the premium paid can more realistically be recovered when the coin is sold down the line. Until one builds their knowledge base, this is the better way to go IMHO.
Seated Half Society member #38 "Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
@Catbert said:
I sense a pattern with the OP in that he buys a coin, posts it here, becomes dissatisfied due to the board's response that provides opinion/education, and the OP eventually sells the coin with a loss.
Better to buy the coin in a top tier holder w/CAC. At least then, the premium paid can more realistically be recovered when the coin is sold down the line. Until one builds their knowledge base, this is the better way to go IMHO.
If a buyer isn’t knowledgeable about coins and market values, it’s plenty easy to overpay for CAC coins in top tier holders, as well.
If he’s going to seek advice, - and that’s a good thing to do - it would be far better to do so BEFORE making purchases.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Definitely don't crack it because:
1. The slab is collectable to some people
2. Common date/mint Morgan which comes especially nice as you know for that year. MS65/66 Gems are not that rare.
3. Unless it has some really flashy luster in person, the MS64 grade looks generous
@chesterb said:
I like it. For me the value would mostly be in the holder. Keep it and enjoy it.
Is the holder more valuable?
@pcgscacgold said:
If you like a coin best not to bring it here and ask about price.
Why not?
If you really like the coin and you think you paid a fair amount why does it matter what others think?
It could matter in terms of learning for the future. In this case, about market value, the type of holder and about toning (whether due to the holder in which it resides, or otherwise).
It would appear that some would prefer giving the OP a pat on the head and an "atta boy" instead of offering a true opinion and a slice of truth. The truth is, the coin discussed can be purchased at nearly half the cost on eBay.
Here's one in the loved OGH from our host that sold yesterday (admittedly with poor photography):
@P0CKETCHANGE said:
I'm not a big fan of Morgans, but this one has some character that's attractive to me. The reverse is especially nice with the color IMO. I will say that the gashes on the neck are pretty obvious, and there's quite a bit of fingerprinting on both sides. Overall I think you did okay. Definitely get a TrueView if you send it to our hosts.
I’m honestly tempted to see if it will cross as a 65 and get a true view
I wouldn't, from the picture it doesn't appear to have any luster in the obv.
But it is not my money. If you do submit the coin good luck😊
I'd crack it out and send it in, great educational opportunity whatever the outcome. Price of grading benefits your future decisions and is a trivial cost relative to making big mistakes.......
Yes I know from what I have read the firm was started by the founders of what is now Heritage, does not change my opinion.
I sense some holder bias at play. if the coin was posted by the OP with everything the same EXCEPT that it was encapsulated in a current PCGS "shield" holder I think the tone of the thread replies would be different. different still if the OP were in the COT.
more holder bias: Better to buy the coin in a top tier holder w/CAC.
Not a comparable example in that he liked the toning of his acquisition.
Filter sold 1881-S Morgan dollars in MS64 on the site and take your pick out of pages of completed auctions. Toned, different holders, toned in different holders...
@keets said: Yes I know from what I have read the firm was started by the founders of what is now Heritage, does not change my opinion.
I sense some holder bias at play. if the coin was posted by the OP with everything the same EXCEPT that it was encapsulated in a current PCGS "shield" holder I think the tone of the thread replies would be different. different still if the OP were in the COT.
more holder bias: Better to buy the coin in a top tier holder w/CAC.
Two words - market reality.
Seated Half Society member #38 "Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
@P0CKETCHANGE said:
I'm not a big fan of Morgans, but this one has some character that's attractive to me. The reverse is especially nice with the color IMO. I will say that the gashes on the neck are pretty obvious, and there's quite a bit of fingerprinting on both sides. Overall I think you did okay. Definitely get a TrueView if you send it to our hosts.
I’m honestly tempted to see if it will cross as a 65 and get a true view
I wouldn't, from the picture it doesn't appear to have any luster in the obv.
But it is not my money. If you do submit the coin good luck😊
I'd crack it out and send it in, great educational opportunity whatever the outcome. Price of grading benefits your future decisions and is a trivial cost relative to making big mistakes.......
Unless you’re going to pay the $60 for grading and shipping for him I think this is bad advice. Why pay half the value of the coin again that he already overpaid for? At this point he knows it’s probably a 64 and he didn’t have to pay anything extra to get that info. Putting it in a new holder doesn’t help. Even if it comes back 65 he’s into the coin at $185 which is still too much.
It’s very possible to learn about grading without sending every coin to PCGS, NGC, or CAC. For people with a small-ish budget the grading route is an extremely inefficient way to get an education.
@keets said: Yes I know from what I have read the firm was started by the founders of what is now Heritage, does not change my opinion.
I sense some holder bias at play. if the coin was posted by the OP with everything the same EXCEPT that it was encapsulated in a current PCGS "shield" holder I think the tone of the thread replies would be different. different still if the OP were in the COT.
more holder bias: Better to buy the coin in a top tier holder w/CAC.
As this was my comment I will say this, I have zero holder bias and the holder had zero to do with my comment. In fact if anything I would rather have the coin in that old holder than a shinny new shield holder. My comment is directed solely at the coin and the price paid for it. And to be clear while my comment can be construed as harsh it was simply direct and honest, I think the price was high for what I consider a rather blah super common coin. I guess I'm just not very good at happy talk.
Another thought on “how’d I do?”...does anyone here regularly buy from retail establishments and ALSO sell the same coin for a profit within a year? I’m not talking about cherry picks, just regular, fairly common stuff.
I don’t sell too often, it if my purchase if from a B&M, I know I’m paying more for it than I’m likely to get back in the near future. I just plan on making up the difference in my enjoyment.
I really like it and think it is probably graded right. I would leave it in the holder as that is part of the history of that coin and could be the reason for much of the toning. As far as over paying for that coin IF you did not by much as that holder actually ads a little value. Enjoy your purchase and continue to evaluate what you buy but enjoy it .
Al
@Catbert said:
I sense a pattern with the OP in that he buys a coin, posts it here, becomes dissatisfied due to the board's response that provides opinion/education, and the OP eventually sells the coin with a loss.
Better to buy the coin in a top tier holder w/CAC. At least then, the premium paid can more realistically be recovered when the coin is sold down the line. Until one builds their knowledge base, this is the better way to go IMHO.
The NCI holders are collectible and have a slight premium for common coins (like an 81-S Morgan). I've seen them sell for about $10-$30 over the price of a generic MS 63 or MS 64 Morgan.
At $125, I would say it is higher than typical but not a huge overpay. As many have mentioned, it is good to research before buying but we all have likely had that moment where we rushed into something and paid more than the coin is worth. This was a relatively inexpensive lesson.
This is why you bought it, enjoy it because you like it.
The biggest mistake you can make with this coin is letting the comments here make you unhappy with the coin.
Another mistake would be letting it discourage you from coin collecting in the future and gaining more knowledge.
I bought a pattern cent about 15 years ago, I liked the look of it enough to pay $1700 for it. I sold the coin last weekend for $100 less than I paid. I enjoyed the coin for 15 years and the pride of ownership was worth it to me. I lost more on 1 coin than you could ever lose on this coin. Almost every other member here has lost money on a coin deal and many well over $100. The coin & the education you have gained is well worth the price paid. You have not lost any money yet because the coin is not sold, depending on when you sell you may do better or worse on the deal. With collectors buying old slabs you could do very well down the road. Even if you lose $50 on the coin it could keep you from making a $100 mistake in the future.
On a side note, after selling my pattern last weekend I bought a raw Morgan with some toning that should grade MS-63 but may details grade because of a scratch. I paid $125 for it because I like the colors, it's not above average toning. There is a fair chance I will lose money if I try to sell it, I may break even. There is no room to grade the coin, even if it came back a 64 it would only be worth about $150 for the colors. I think most dealers would offer to buy the coin in the $75-$85 range. I knew all that going into it but I liked the coin. All of my toned Morgan's are graded and it's fun to have one in an Air-Tite that you can hold in your hands or put in your pocket. I will carry it as a pocket piece for a while and show it off, if the holder gets scratched or damaged it's no big deal. The enjoyment I get from it will be worth any cost factor involved.
@chesterb said:
I like it. For me the value would mostly be in the holder. Keep it and enjoy it.
I’m not familiar with how valuable the holder is.
I posted my comment because I think it’s an interesting old holder with some nostalgia. I don’t have one of those holders in my collection and think it’s rather neat. So clarifying what I said, for me, the value of that coin is the entire package. The OP likes the coin and it happens to be in an uncommon, old holder. That’s a win/win in my book. The price paid of $125 is immaterial if he keeps it long term because he likes it the coin and old holder.
@keets said: Yes I know from what I have read the firm was started by the founders of what is now Heritage, does not change my opinion.
I sense some holder bias at play. if the coin was posted by the OP with everything the same EXCEPT that it was encapsulated in a current PCGS "shield" holder I think the tone of the thread replies would be different. different still if the OP were in the COT.
I can say that any of my comments are based on the coin itself. While I don't care much about old holders, I do recognize they can be collectible in their own right, especially when the coin itself isn't that rare (a high value coin will greatly benefit from being in the right plastic, even if it's newly slabbed, where a common-date coin can justify remaining in an older holder). More on your COT comment in just a moment...
@coinJP said:
If you like it, that's all that matters.
Yes and no. If you are fully informed (understand how the coin got its grade, how it compares to other examples, a general fair value, etc.) then by all means, if you like it, great. I have a coin with a staple scratch on the neck that dropped it down from probably MS65/66 to MS63; it was old and toned in and didn't get a details grade. A purist may still say it's damaged, and that's fine, but I was well aware of why the coin got the grade it did, and all things considered, knew it was a coin I should buy. Many longtime board members here make compromises when buying coins, and whether or not I agree with each individual one, if they understand everything, then that's there prerogative. I might still mention a thought on the coin, or I might just say I'm glad they're happy. So far, the OP has posted numerous coins that show he is eager (which is very good), but not patient. What may be seen as many being harsh, I'd argue, is an attempt to slow him down enough before he really gets burned on a coin. If he can hold back a little, he's got the resources to acquire some really great coins. He just needs to learn faster than he's spending his money.
@P0CKETCHANGE said:
I'm not a big fan of Morgans, but this one has some character that's attractive to me. The reverse is especially nice with the color IMO. I will say that the gashes on the neck are pretty obvious, and there's quite a bit of fingerprinting on both sides. Overall I think you did okay. Definitely get a TrueView if you send it to our hosts.
I’m honestly tempted to see if it will cross as a 65 and get a true view
I wouldn't, from the picture it doesn't appear to have any luster in the obv.
But it is not my money. If you do submit the coin good luck😊
I'd crack it out and send it in, great educational opportunity whatever the outcome. Price of grading benefits your future decisions and is a trivial cost relative to making big mistakes.......
Unless you’re going to pay the $60 for grading and shipping for him I think this is bad advice. Why pay half the value of the coin again that he already overpaid for? At this point he knows it’s probably a 64 and he didn’t have to pay anything extra to get that info. Putting it in a new holder doesn’t help. Even if it comes back 65 he’s into the coin at $185 which is still too much.
It’s very possible to learn about grading without sending every coin to PCGS, NGC, or CAC. For people with a small-ish budget the grading route is an extremely inefficient way to get an education.
Sorry but that is naive, the only way to learn how the TPG grades, you send in coins. It is worth every penny. The $60 you pay now might save one hundreds later when the more expensive coins comes along. Yikes.
OTH, if one has no interest in learning about grading, sure save that whopping $60 of educational costs. My decisions in buying now are so much more informed because I 'wasted' some money on cheaper coins by sending them off to TPG's. Silly me.
Another way to learn how the TPG’s grade is to view large quantities of graded coins on line and when feasible, in person. Submitting small quantities of various coins from time to time is unlikely to be anywhere near as educational.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Another way to learn how the TPG’s grade is to view large quantities of graded coins on line and when feasible, in person. Submitting small quantities of various coins from time to time is unlikely to be anywhere near as educational.
I don't have basically any chance to see large amounts of graded coins in person and as you know pictures can be deceiving. I try my best to pick quality coins. I greatly appreciate yours and everyone elses feedback. It isn't easy to start out in numismatics.
Another way to learn how the TPG’s grade is to view large quantities of graded coins on line and when feasible, in person. Submitting small quantities of various coins from time to time is unlikely to be anywhere near as educational.
I don't have basically any chance to see large amounts of graded coins in person and as you know pictures can be deceiving. I try my best to pick quality coins. I greatly appreciate yours and everyone elses feedback. It isn't easy to start out in numismatics.
It will be a lot easier if you focus on learning and not buying.
@P0CKETCHANGE said:
I'm not a big fan of Morgans, but this one has some character that's attractive to me. The reverse is especially nice with the color IMO. I will say that the gashes on the neck are pretty obvious, and there's quite a bit of fingerprinting on both sides. Overall I think you did okay. Definitely get a TrueView if you send it to our hosts.
I’m honestly tempted to see if it will cross as a 65 and get a true view
I wouldn't, from the picture it doesn't appear to have any luster in the obv.
But it is not my money. If you do submit the coin good luck😊
I'd crack it out and send it in, great educational opportunity whatever the outcome. Price of grading benefits your future decisions and is a trivial cost relative to making big mistakes.......
Unless you’re going to pay the $60 for grading and shipping for him I think this is bad advice. Why pay half the value of the coin again that he already overpaid for? At this point he knows it’s probably a 64 and he didn’t have to pay anything extra to get that info. Putting it in a new holder doesn’t help. Even if it comes back 65 he’s into the coin at $185 which is still too much.
It’s very possible to learn about grading without sending every coin to PCGS, NGC, or CAC. For people with a small-ish budget the grading route is an extremely inefficient way to get an education.
Sorry but that is naive, the only way to learn how the TPG grades, you send in coins. It is worth every penny. The $60 you pay now might save one hundreds later when the more expensive coins comes along. Yikes.
OTH, if one has no interest in learning about grading, sure save that whopping $60 of educational costs. My decisions in buying now are so much more informed because I 'wasted' some money on cheaper coins by sending them off to TPG's. Silly me.
I’ve been collecting for roughly 25 years. Not counting some modern stuff I’ve sent in just to flip, I’d venture a guess that maybe I’ve had 20 coins graded. I’ve handled thousands of graded coins and learned from them... free. Absolutely no need to waste my money grading just the coins I have which don’t need to be sent in for any reason other than my education.
@relicsncoins said:
Here is my 1881S with an NCI photo certificate. This was before NCI started putting the coins in slabs. I did send this one into PCGS.
Some advice reading through your posts in the thread. If you see a coin you love take a picture of it and go home and 1. research value and 2. see if you "need' to have it. You may go home and continually think about it or after a few hours think "meh it's just another coin I don't need it". If the former then go back and try and get at a fair price.
For the most part, when you buy from a retail dealer the answer to "how'd I do" is going to be "you paid in the high range of what anybody might plausibly pay for the thing you got," unless you possess very specific knowledge that the dealer does not. And if you do, you'll know it and not have to ask anybody how you did.
Can I make a suggestion? Try something for your next purchase: decide what you're actually looking for before you go. Educate yourself as much as you can about that thing, its strike issues, how to grade it, what its value is in various states of preservation, etc. Take weeks or months to do this. Look at lots of that thing online -- spend a lot of time in auction archives, etc. Decide the grade or grade range you're looking for and what holder you want it in. Decide what you think a fair price range is. Have a picture in your mind of the kind of look you're after. Then start shopping. I bet you'll get a coin you really like, at a price you already know is about right, before you come here to show us.
The biggest surprise to me is that you found a coin in an NCI holder. The strike, toning, and luster are OK, but the marks on the neck will prevent it from grading higher than a 64. Keep it in the holder, as a relic, but in the future stick with coins graded by the 2 major TPG's.
This is why you bought it, enjoy it because you like it.
The biggest mistake you can make with this coin is letting the comments here make you unhappy with the coin.
Another mistake would be letting it discourage you from coin collecting in the future and gaining more knowledge.
I bought a pattern cent about 15 years ago, I liked the look of it enough to pay $1700 for it. I sold the coin last weekend for $100 less than I paid. I enjoyed the coin for 15 years and the pride of ownership was worth it to me. I lost more on 1 coin than you could ever lose on this coin. Almost every other member here has lost money on a coin deal and many well over $100. The coin & the education you have gained is well worth the price paid. You have not lost any money yet because the coin is not sold, depending on when you sell you may do better or worse on the deal. With collectors buying old slabs you could do very well down the road. Even if you lose $50 on the coin it could keep you from making a $100 mistake in the future.
On a side note, after selling my pattern last weekend I bought a raw Morgan with some toning that should grade MS-63 but may details grade because of a scratch. I paid $125 for it because I like the colors, it's not above average toning. There is a fair chance I will lose money if I try to sell it, I may break even. There is no room to grade the coin, even if it came back a 64 it would only be worth about $150 for the colors. I think most dealers would offer to buy the coin in the $75-$85 range. I knew all that going into it but I liked the coin. All of my toned Morgan's are graded and it's fun to have one in an Air-Tite that you can hold in your hands or put in your pocket. I will carry it as a pocket piece for a while and show it off, if the holder gets scratched or damaged it's no big deal. The enjoyment I get from it will be worth any cost factor involved.
Thank you for your comments. It is very nice to hear from someone else who appreciates toned morgans.
@mirabela said:
For the most part, when you buy from a retail dealer the answer to "how'd I do" is going to be "you paid in the high range of what anybody might plausibly pay for the thing you got," unless you possess very specific knowledge that the dealer does not. And if you do, you'll know it and not have to ask anybody how you did.
Can I make a suggestion? Try something for your next purchase: decide what you're actually looking for before you go. Educate yourself as much as you can about that thing, its strike issues, how to grade it, what its value is in various states of preservation, etc. Take weeks or months to do this. Look at lots of that thing online -- spend a lot of time in auction archives, etc. Decide the grade or grade range you're looking for and what holder you want it in. Decide what you think a fair price range is. Have a picture in your mind of the kind of look you're after. Then start shopping. I bet you'll get a coin you really like, at a price you already know is about right, before you come here to show us.
Thanks for the suggestion. I will try to do that from now on.
Comments
If you love the coin that's all that matters, and I would leave it in the holder as is. You can always send it in to our hosts, next year, 5 years, 10 years from now to see if it'll bump up a grade. Keep it as is and enjoy it is my opinion.
I sense a pattern with the OP in that he buys a coin, posts it here, becomes dissatisfied due to the board's response that provides opinion/education, and the OP eventually sells the coin with a loss.
Better to buy the coin in a top tier holder w/CAC. At least then, the premium paid can more realistically be recovered when the coin is sold down the line. Until one builds their knowledge base, this is the better way to go IMHO.
"Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
If a buyer isn’t knowledgeable about coins and market values, it’s plenty easy to overpay for CAC coins in top tier holders, as well.
If he’s going to seek advice, - and that’s a good thing to do - it would be far better to do so BEFORE making purchases.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Agree Mark, but he might be happier with his purchases.
"Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
Hopefully.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
Definitely don't crack it because:
1. The slab is collectable to some people
2. Common date/mint Morgan which comes especially nice as you know for that year. MS65/66 Gems are not that rare.
3. Unless it has some really flashy luster in person, the MS64 grade looks generous
If you like it, that's all that matters.
It would appear that some would prefer giving the OP a pat on the head and an "atta boy" instead of offering a true opinion and a slice of truth. The truth is, the coin discussed can be purchased at nearly half the cost on eBay.
Here's one in the loved OGH from our host that sold yesterday (admittedly with poor photography):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1881-S-Morgan-Dollar-PCGS-MS64-OGH-White-Screamer-PQ-CHN-/303831322784?hash=item46bdc210a0:g:h-UAAOSwMp9f7f3K&nma=true&si=9C3EDWThM2HAErVxTerx2gsckbQ%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
I believe the OP was asking for your real opinions. Maybe I'm wrong...
@mark_dak
Not a comparable example in that he liked the toning of his acquisition.
"Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
I'd crack it out and send it in, great educational opportunity whatever the outcome. Price of grading benefits your future decisions and is a trivial cost relative to making big mistakes.......
Yes I know from what I have read the firm was started by the founders of what is now Heritage, does not change my opinion.
I sense some holder bias at play. if the coin was posted by the OP with everything the same EXCEPT that it was encapsulated in a current PCGS "shield" holder I think the tone of the thread replies would be different. different still if the OP were in the COT.
more holder bias: Better to buy the coin in a top tier holder w/CAC.
Filter sold 1881-S Morgan dollars in MS64 on the site and take your pick out of pages of completed auctions. Toned, different holders, toned in different holders...
Two words - market reality.
"Got a flaming heart, can't get my fill"
Unless you’re going to pay the $60 for grading and shipping for him I think this is bad advice. Why pay half the value of the coin again that he already overpaid for? At this point he knows it’s probably a 64 and he didn’t have to pay anything extra to get that info. Putting it in a new holder doesn’t help. Even if it comes back 65 he’s into the coin at $185 which is still too much.
It’s very possible to learn about grading without sending every coin to PCGS, NGC, or CAC. For people with a small-ish budget the grading route is an extremely inefficient way to get an education.
As this was my comment I will say this, I have zero holder bias and the holder had zero to do with my comment. In fact if anything I would rather have the coin in that old holder than a shinny new shield holder. My comment is directed solely at the coin and the price paid for it. And to be clear while my comment can be construed as harsh it was simply direct and honest, I think the price was high for what I consider a rather blah super common coin. I guess I'm just not very good at happy talk.
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
Another thought on “how’d I do?”...does anyone here regularly buy from retail establishments and ALSO sell the same coin for a profit within a year? I’m not talking about cherry picks, just regular, fairly common stuff.
I don’t sell too often, it if my purchase if from a B&M, I know I’m paying more for it than I’m likely to get back in the near future. I just plan on making up the difference in my enjoyment.
I really like it and think it is probably graded right. I would leave it in the holder as that is part of the history of that coin and could be the reason for much of the toning. As far as over paying for that coin IF you did not by much as that holder actually ads a little value. Enjoy your purchase and continue to evaluate what you buy but enjoy it .
Al
I try.
The NCI holders are collectible and have a slight premium for common coins (like an 81-S Morgan). I've seen them sell for about $10-$30 over the price of a generic MS 63 or MS 64 Morgan.
At $125, I would say it is higher than typical but not a huge overpay. As many have mentioned, it is good to research before buying but we all have likely had that moment where we rushed into something and paid more than the coin is worth. This was a relatively inexpensive lesson.
@CalifornianKing "but this is a drop dead gorgeous one"
This is why you bought it, enjoy it because you like it.
The biggest mistake you can make with this coin is letting the comments here make you unhappy with the coin.
Another mistake would be letting it discourage you from coin collecting in the future and gaining more knowledge.
I bought a pattern cent about 15 years ago, I liked the look of it enough to pay $1700 for it. I sold the coin last weekend for $100 less than I paid. I enjoyed the coin for 15 years and the pride of ownership was worth it to me. I lost more on 1 coin than you could ever lose on this coin. Almost every other member here has lost money on a coin deal and many well over $100. The coin & the education you have gained is well worth the price paid. You have not lost any money yet because the coin is not sold, depending on when you sell you may do better or worse on the deal. With collectors buying old slabs you could do very well down the road. Even if you lose $50 on the coin it could keep you from making a $100 mistake in the future.
On a side note, after selling my pattern last weekend I bought a raw Morgan with some toning that should grade MS-63 but may details grade because of a scratch. I paid $125 for it because I like the colors, it's not above average toning. There is a fair chance I will lose money if I try to sell it, I may break even. There is no room to grade the coin, even if it came back a 64 it would only be worth about $150 for the colors. I think most dealers would offer to buy the coin in the $75-$85 range. I knew all that going into it but I liked the coin. All of my toned Morgan's are graded and it's fun to have one in an Air-Tite that you can hold in your hands or put in your pocket. I will carry it as a pocket piece for a while and show it off, if the holder gets scratched or damaged it's no big deal. The enjoyment I get from it will be worth any cost factor involved.
I posted my comment because I think it’s an interesting old holder with some nostalgia. I don’t have one of those holders in my collection and think it’s rather neat. So clarifying what I said, for me, the value of that coin is the entire package. The OP likes the coin and it happens to be in an uncommon, old holder. That’s a win/win in my book. The price paid of $125 is immaterial if he keeps it long term because he likes it the coin and old holder.
I can say that any of my comments are based on the coin itself. While I don't care much about old holders, I do recognize they can be collectible in their own right, especially when the coin itself isn't that rare (a high value coin will greatly benefit from being in the right plastic, even if it's newly slabbed, where a common-date coin can justify remaining in an older holder). More on your COT comment in just a moment...
Yes and no. If you are fully informed (understand how the coin got its grade, how it compares to other examples, a general fair value, etc.) then by all means, if you like it, great. I have a coin with a staple scratch on the neck that dropped it down from probably MS65/66 to MS63; it was old and toned in and didn't get a details grade. A purist may still say it's damaged, and that's fine, but I was well aware of why the coin got the grade it did, and all things considered, knew it was a coin I should buy. Many longtime board members here make compromises when buying coins, and whether or not I agree with each individual one, if they understand everything, then that's there prerogative. I might still mention a thought on the coin, or I might just say I'm glad they're happy. So far, the OP has posted numerous coins that show he is eager (which is very good), but not patient. What may be seen as many being harsh, I'd argue, is an attempt to slow him down enough before he really gets burned on a coin. If he can hold back a little, he's got the resources to acquire some really great coins. He just needs to learn faster than he's spending his money.
Here is my 1881S with an NCI photo certificate. This was before NCI started putting the coins in slabs. I did send this one into PCGS.
Sorry but that is naive, the only way to learn how the TPG grades, you send in coins. It is worth every penny. The $60 you pay now might save one hundreds later when the more expensive coins comes along. Yikes.
OTH, if one has no interest in learning about grading, sure save that whopping $60 of educational costs. My decisions in buying now are so much more informed because I 'wasted' some money on cheaper coins by sending them off to TPG's. Silly me.
Another way to learn how the TPG’s grade is to view large quantities of graded coins on line and when feasible, in person. Submitting small quantities of various coins from time to time is unlikely to be anywhere near as educational.
Mark Feld* of Heritage Auctions*Unless otherwise noted, my posts here represent my personal opinions.
I like the toning!
I don't have basically any chance to see large amounts of graded coins in person and as you know pictures can be deceiving. I try my best to pick quality coins. I greatly appreciate yours and everyone elses feedback. It isn't easy to start out in numismatics.
It will be a lot easier if you focus on learning and not buying.
I’ve been collecting for roughly 25 years. Not counting some modern stuff I’ve sent in just to flip, I’d venture a guess that maybe I’ve had 20 coins graded. I’ve handled thousands of graded coins and learned from them... free. Absolutely no need to waste my money grading just the coins I have which don’t need to be sent in for any reason other than my education.
Thats nice. How did it grade?
Some advice reading through your posts in the thread. If you see a coin you love take a picture of it and go home and 1. research value and 2. see if you "need' to have it. You may go home and continually think about it or after a few hours think "meh it's just another coin I don't need it". If the former then go back and try and get at a fair price.
Thanks, MS65+
If you find someone who will allow you to piggyback on an economy submission for you, grading doesn't cost anywhere near $60.
That being said, personally I'd not sink another $30 into that.
For the most part, when you buy from a retail dealer the answer to "how'd I do" is going to be "you paid in the high range of what anybody might plausibly pay for the thing you got," unless you possess very specific knowledge that the dealer does not. And if you do, you'll know it and not have to ask anybody how you did.
Can I make a suggestion? Try something for your next purchase: decide what you're actually looking for before you go. Educate yourself as much as you can about that thing, its strike issues, how to grade it, what its value is in various states of preservation, etc. Take weeks or months to do this. Look at lots of that thing online -- spend a lot of time in auction archives, etc. Decide the grade or grade range you're looking for and what holder you want it in. Decide what you think a fair price range is. Have a picture in your mind of the kind of look you're after. Then start shopping. I bet you'll get a coin you really like, at a price you already know is about right, before you come here to show us.
The biggest surprise to me is that you found a coin in an NCI holder. The strike, toning, and luster are OK, but the marks on the neck will prevent it from grading higher than a 64. Keep it in the holder, as a relic, but in the future stick with coins graded by the 2 major TPG's.
Thank you for your comments. It is very nice to hear from someone else who appreciates toned morgans.
Thanks for the suggestion. I will try to do that from now on.
It's nice enough. The toning gives it a bit of character. The holder is mildly interesting. You overpaid for it. So what.
It certainly isn't worthy of any further grading attempts.