a question for people familiar with Lincoln cents and the PCGS set registry..
Cloudster
Posts: 17 ✭
what's more important for your set.. to have a particular coin that is red, but in a lower grade, or brown but in a higher grade, in general?
0
Comments
Its up to each collector to decide what his/her set is. If points are what your after then RD will be the only way to go and you will need a bottomless wallet if you want to compete at the highest levels of the registry. Many of the early teens and twenties in full RD are very expensive even at the mid grades like MS64. My goal was to complete the 09-58 complete date/mm set which I did a few years ago, it has a mix of BN, RB, and RD coins and was the best set I could assemble at a price I could afford and save for a couple of coins I'm very satisfied with my set.
If you decide that some type of Lincoln set be it a full date/mm set or a smaller easier to complete set like a date set buy what you like and enjoy the hunt.
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
That's a personal choice. You can save quite a bit by choosing RB or BN, many of which are striking in eye appeal.
I built a gem+ RD set (with only a couple of color compromises) and had a lot of fun but it was far too expensive. High grade RD early dates are difficult and silly expensive.
If your budget doesn't allow for better RD examples I'd say stay away from them. A 65BN can be gorgeous and cost much less than a 63RD with troubling issues.
As for the PCGS registry...don't play there unless you are very well off and don't mind losing a lot of money.
Lance.
for the first couple of responders, thanks for your answers, I meant more specifically, what is worth more points for your set, generally, a coin that is red, but is one or two grades lower than a coin that is brown but one or two grades higher than the red? sorry for not making my question as clear as I could have.
It's totally up to you.
click on 'set composition' which show weight of coin and bonus for RB and RD - it all depends on the specific set you are interested in
Its not that simple, the registry uses a weighted system and then bonus points are added 1 point for RB 2 for RD. So the calc for each weight is slightly different thus no way to make a generic comparison of BN vs RD in X grade when it comes to points awarded. The best way to see what you want is to start a set then use the what if function to see how a one or two point grade/color change affects the score for each date.
My Collection of Old Holders
Never a slave to one plastic brand will I ever be.
I understand your main question is regarding “points”, and that was answered perfectly by @davewesen . However, as a separate issue with a Lincoln set, you might want to consider building just a “Date” set. By having many fewer coins required for the set, combined with being able to pick the least expensive mint for each year (for example, for 1910, the Philadelphia is much less expensive than the San Francisco), you can then go for all Red, and/or higher grades. However, MANY collectors strongly prefer building a complete set, and that’s understandable.
Happy Hunting!
Steve
My collecting “Pride & Joy” is my PCGS Registry Dansco 7070 Set:
https://www.pcgs.com/setregistry/type-sets/design-type-sets/complete-dansco-7070-modified-type-set-1796-date/publishedset/213996
Here's a sensible approach. Screw the registry.
Lance.
I started out just doing raw cents and then wanted to upgrade. The trouble was my knowledge. I was getting cleaned crap and paying big money for it. About this time, the registry comes along. So my purchases were to prevent from getting screwed and have a nice example. However, I still have a complete raw set. Now I could never collect what I have today - too darn expensive and after watching folks loose their behinds on memorials sets, - well you understand that is were I do NOT put my cash. I like R&B cents - a middle of the road for me. But as all these great collectors above have stated - its a personal thing regarding the preference and the cash. Right now I am seeing folks loosing points and BIG money as the pops on first +, then 67, and now 68 graded coins keep falling. (this same thing happened when PCGS got real friendly grading memorial proofs at grade 70 -they cost easily $1000 but not anymore below the year 1984) If a 1944 cent in MS 68 cost as much as a Matte proof - then there is problem. So study the price guides. Fill in a paper collection of what you would like to have/collect and put the value down. This will dictate whether you can pull if off and how many years it will take.
Good Luck!
WS
I emphasize to collect what you like and are naturally attracted to. The registry platform has benefits to organization and sharing. I like that I can visually access my collection on any device. The numerical points that are assigned are of no importance to me. IMO, especially the case with Lincoln cents, they come in so many different looks in color alone it’s impossible to put the series in a framework or box.
There are many sets in this series I love what people have built that are ranked way lower than the top 25. As is the case and already stated, in regards to Lincolns, it may be prudent to do some quick napkin math to size up ones appetite and means, but the pull of these little sweeties can be strong once you’ve been bitten by the bug, all rationale can get tossed out the window!
I spent a year or so studying and fixated on registry numbers and I thinks that’s only natural if your seriously immersed and committed to a series. I realized I got off track of my original intent of collecting and had to get my focus back on the coin and not the points they are awarded. Still, I think it’s good to be up to speed on the registry sector and how it can influenced the prices to what your buying.
Best bang for the buck is probably in those UNC RB's that are 65-90% RED, at a fraction of the cost of full reds. And grade-wise probably a grade or two below pop top status. As mentioned earlier, study the pop reports vs. pricing. It will take several hours of book work just to get a feel of them. Find out where the sweet spot is with grade, color, and even era VS. pricing. Focus on value. Understand that the pops will always increase, dramatically so in many cases. Maybe you can find an area of REGISTRY Lincoln Cents yet to be significantly exploited. Full strikes?
For me, I'd rather have a close to pop top RB or B coin, over the Red....particularly RB's with 70-85% Red. Besides the huge dollar savings, you don't have to worry near as much about a rogue spot showing up on your Red coin and hurting the value. I sort of like the neat toning you can get with RB gem Lincoln cents. That's not allowed for all Reds.
nice collection! those lincoln cent holder books is what got me interested in coin collecting in the first place back in my youth.
my personal preference is reds over higher graded RBS or browns, cus they're shiny! it's neat seeing really old coins that look like they're brand new.
There ya go! You do you.
Copper has a natural aging process. It is amazing to me as well when it happens to defy that. To me, it is just one of the many ways they come and appreciate it for what it is. I don’t rule anything out and to this day Lincoln’s continue to nail me to the wall from time to time — in all color designations.
A note of caution, because the series is heavily collected the prices they bring makes a motivation to help or enhance the look in all color designations. TPG will help protect at some level but not a complete fail safe. Trusted dealers as well as looking at as many coins as possible in hand, take your time, will minimize future disappointment. With that said, copper can be hugely rewarding collecting field and really help identify problems in other metals and series.
Happy collecting!
that depends on the particular set you are looking at, some coins have more weight and some have more bonus for RB or RD