@jmlanzaf said: "Despite my chemistry background, I try to limit my doctoring to ethical endeavors. That said, this thread has inspired me to try an experiment."
Experimentation is good. When two of us started the Numismatic Conservation Service we planned to reserve Fridays for experimentation. Unfortunately, we were too swamped with work right from the start to ever do it.
I don't get into "ethical" determinations. Is cleaning a coin to "improve it" before a sale really ethical?
@Insider2 said: @jmlanzaf said: "Despite my chemistry background, I try to limit my doctoring to ethical endeavors. That said, this thread has inspired me to try an experiment."
Experimentation is good. When two of us started the Numismatic Conservation Service we planned to reserve Fridays for experimentation. Unfortunately, we were too swamped with work right from the start to ever do it.
I don't get into "ethical" determinations. Is cleaning a coin to "improve it" before a sale really ethical?
That's a valid question, probably worthy of its own thread.
I don't even dip coins for sale unless removing the surface contaminants seems necessary to preserve the coin, e.g. PVC.
Faking toning seems across the line. Although I must confess to actually doing it once. I had an 1850 large cent that was AU55 but had been dipped in lemon juice to redden it. Partly as another experiment, I managed to tone it to a natural looking brown and sold it as "cleaned, retoned".
I was always tempted to return to the experiment because the was one small spot on the reverse that was not brown bit a very natural looking red color. I always wondered if with a little more patience I could have made a passable red coin. But I didn't wantto be tempted to make my fortuneby upgrading brown large cents to red brown or full red.
@Insider2 said:
Never saw that one. Have you and what happened?
I have tried several dozen different off-the-shelf products from grocery and hardware stores to clean coins. There are some "miracle" products right in front of your nose in stores or even already in your house! There is a book about "secrets of the trade" that is more advanced using some dangerous stuff.
It happens, just sitting in the OGP, in some instances.
Why ? I suspect it's the environment. Although, not affecting every piece, it is radical, in contrast to the others, in these sets from 2011. Have you checked your original sets ?
@Insider2 said:
The serial # is below the logo. I've already given away too many hints. One eagle-eye collector is going to figure it out one day.
Do the 3 that I posted have something in the serial number or was it not done for all Eagles?
No, AFAIK the serial #'s were generated at random. Stuff as: COMSIL99, or KDH68SPR ID'ed the coin type. The answer to the puzzle is with the SE coins.
The 3 that I posted (after the Kennedy) are all Silver Eagles. I was asking if those 3 had any clues? Or are you now saying the 10 digit #s aren’t the clue? Is it something in the front or the back of the slab?
@Insider2 said:
Never saw that one. Have you and what happened?
I have tried several dozen different off-the-shelf products from grocery and hardware stores to clean coins. There are some "miracle" products right in front of your nose in stores or even already in your house! There is a book about "secrets of the trade" that is more advanced using some dangerous stuff.
The Weimar White book?
Have it. Very basic but a MUST READ. You will need to hold your laughter as he believes all toning - including rainbow - is environmental damage (oxidation). Of course he is correct but so what.
@Insider2 said:
Never saw that one. Have you and what happened?
I have tried several dozen different off-the-shelf products from grocery and hardware stores to clean coins. There are some "miracle" products right in front of your nose in stores or even already in your house! There is a book about "secrets of the trade" that is more advanced using some dangerous stuff.
The Weimar White book?
Have it. Very basic but a MUST READ. You will need to hold your laughter as he believes all toning - including rainbow - is environmental damage (oxidation). Of course he is correct but so what.
Been through it. He gave a talk at our local club a number of years ago. I've wanted someone to reproduce his slab work with the more modern slabs.
@Smudge said:
Since something in the PCI holder caused that toning are they really NT?
MANY definite this as time taken to achieve toning - NT being years, while AT being seconds or hours.
Thanks @davewesen for reminding me of these folks as it is very true. Howls of laughter as I pick myself up from the floor. Help, I cannot stop.
I challenge all those "numismatic geniuses" to determine the time it took to tone a coin (if that's what they base their opinion on) when they were not around to see and time it! LOL, pure nonsense.
We received a few toned SE in those sets. AFAIK, it is the velvet "gassing." Velvet is an interesting cloth.
@Insider2 said:
The serial # is below the logo. I've already given away too many hints. One eagle-eye collector is going to figure it out one day.
Do the 3 that I posted have something in the serial number or was it not done for all Eagles?
No, AFAIK the serial #'s were generated at random. Stuff as: COMSIL99, or KDH68SPR ID'ed the coin type. The answer to the puzzle is with the SE coins.
The 3 that I posted (after the Kennedy) are all Silver Eagles. I was asking if those 3 had any clues? Or are you now saying the 10 digit #s aren’t the clue? Is it something in the front or the back of the slab?
If you examine enough SE slabbed by PCI with the green border labels you'll discover something that only two living ex-graders know. That's all I'm saying on this subject except the coins are graded very conservatively and 98% (toned or not) should up-grade at a modern TPGS.
@Insider2 said:
Never saw that one. Have you and what happened?
I have tried several dozen different off-the-shelf products from grocery and hardware stores to clean coins. There are some "miracle" products right in front of your nose in stores or even already in your house! There is a book about "secrets of the trade" that is more advanced using some dangerous stuff.
The Weimar White book?
Have it. Very basic but a MUST READ. You will need to hold your laughter as he believes all toning - including rainbow - is environmental damage (oxidation). Of course he is correct but so what.
Been through it. He gave a talk at our local club a number of years ago. I've wanted someone to reproduce his slab work with the more modern slabs.
The slabs have been improved since the last time I saw a chemist (not him) playing around under a fume hood. Look, if you feed 80 lbs of sugar to a rat his health will suffer. So what's that prove? Since we don't normally feed the rat, the same can be said for what we do with our slabs.
Been through it. He gave a talk at our local club a number of years ago. I've wanted someone to reproduce his slab work with the more modern slabs.
The slabs have been improved since the last time I saw a chemist (not him) playing around under a fume hood. Look, if you feed 80 lbs of sugar to a rat his health will suffer. So what's that prove? Since we don't normally feed the rat, the same can be said for what we do with our slabs.
There is, of course, much truth to this. But the acceleration models (see Arrhenius equation) do attempt to accelerate the normal process without introducing alternative mechanisms of decay/disease. There is, therefore, a difference between normal pressure exposures at higher temperatures and higher pressure exposures. The former should just accelerate the normal decay process while the latter could well cause a decay process that couldn't occur at normal pressures.
This is an acceleration model that can't really be done biologically with the rats you mention. There is no way to accelerate the time with temperature so they up the dose of sugar hoping that the total dose is the issue while, if they are being honest, they know they run the risk of creating new disease pathways. The obvious analogue is arsenic. We eat trace amounts of it in food and water all the time. Tiny doses over years are not the same as one massive dose.
Been through it. He gave a talk at our local club a number of years ago. I've wanted someone to reproduce his slab work with the more modern slabs.
The slabs have been improved since the last time I saw a chemist (not him) playing around under a fume hood. Look, if you feed 80 lbs of sugar to a rat his health will suffer. So what's that prove? Since we don't normally feed the rat, the same can be said for what we do with our slabs.
There is, of course, much truth to this. But the acceleration models (see Arrhenius equation) do attempt to accelerate the normal process without introducing alternative mechanisms of decay/disease. There is, therefore, a difference between normal pressure exposures at higher temperatures and higher pressure exposures. The former should just accelerate the normal decay process while the latter could well cause a decay process that couldn't occur at normal pressures.
This is an acceleration model that can't really be done biologically with the rats you mention. There is no way to accelerate the time with temperature so they up the dose of sugar hoping that the total dose is the issue while, if they are being honest, they know they run the risk of creating new disease pathways. The obvious analogue is arsenic. We eat trace amounts of it in food and water all the time. Tiny doses over years are not the same as one massive dose.
As long as you get the point. Someone, somewhere can probably screw around with a coin in a slab and cause it to tone. This is not something that should happen under normal wear and tear and it does not include spots that developed later.
This is reason enough for people to tinker with them.
I wouldnt go near a wildly toned ASE for any premium.
I think the ones that were in the PCI holders have what some folks are calling target toning where the sulfur has bled from the outside of the coin toward the inside....I won’t argue at/nt but those seem like pcgs will straight grade.
@Insider2 said:
The serial # is below the logo. I've already given away too many hints. One eagle-eye collector is going to figure it out one day.
Do the 3 that I posted have something in the serial number or was it not done for all Eagles?
No, AFAIK the serial #'s were generated at random. Stuff as: COMSIL99, or KDH68SPR ID'ed the coin type. The answer to the puzzle is with the SE coins.
The 3 that I posted (after the Kennedy) are all Silver Eagles. I was asking if those 3 had any clues? Or are you now saying the 10 digit #s aren’t the clue? Is it something in the front or the back of the slab?
If you examine enough SE slabbed by PCI with the green border labels you'll discover something that only two living ex-graders know. That's all I'm saying on this subject except the coins are graded very conservatively and 98% (toned or not) should up-grade at a modern TPGS.
Does it have something to do with the geographical placement of the serial number on the label? For example, if it is accurately graded the serial number touches the dashed border surrounding the logo and serial number, but if the coin is thought to be higher grade than what it was slabbed as, the serial number would be shifted up closer to the logo?
@Paradisefound said:
What is the bestworse thing I can do to AT my 2018 proof ASE?
The worst thing you can do is to leave them out in the open air, especially if they are near unsealed wood or cardboard. Sulfur will not harm your coins, but SULFIDE will. Sulfides are the chemicals that give the smell of rotten eggs. Sulfur has to react with an acid (which can be found in the air) to become active.
@Insider2 said:
The serial # is below the logo. I've already given away too many hints. One eagle-eye collector is going to figure it out one day.
Do the 3 that I posted have something in the serial number or was it not done for all Eagles?
No, AFAIK the serial #'s were generated at random. Stuff as: COMSIL99, or KDH68SPR ID'ed the coin type. The answer to the puzzle is with the SE coins.
The 3 that I posted (after the Kennedy) are all Silver Eagles. I was asking if those 3 had any clues? Or are you now saying the 10 digit #s aren’t the clue? Is it something in the front or the back of the slab?
If you examine enough SE slabbed by PCI with the green border labels you'll discover something that only two living ex-graders know. That's all I'm saying on this subject except the coins are graded very conservatively and 98% (toned or not) should up-grade at a modern TPGS.
Different font?
Edited: maybe that was to tell which PCI holder was the more conservative of the versions of green holders.
@Insider2 said:
Never saw that one. Have you and what happened?
I have tried several dozen different off-the-shelf products from grocery and hardware stores to clean coins. There are some "miracle" products right in front of your nose in stores or even already in your house! There is a book about "secrets of the trade" that is more advanced using some dangerous stuff.
Yes there are. Just be sure to dilute them until you see what they can do.
If you looks up 'AT' in a numismatic encyclopedia, this coin has a shot at being the plate coin.
Me, a few friends, and the graders at PCGS disagree.
Doesn't mean it isn't AT. ANACS calls everything like this, "MS60 Details - Questionable Toning". They are the only ones honest about hollering these things.
@Insider2 said:
The serial # is below the logo. I've already given away too many hints. One eagle-eye collector is going to figure it out one day.
Do the 3 that I posted have something in the serial number or was it not done for all Eagles?
No, AFAIK the serial #'s were generated at random. Stuff as: COMSIL99, or KDH68SPR ID'ed the coin type. The answer to the puzzle is with the SE coins.
The 3 that I posted (after the Kennedy) are all Silver Eagles. I was asking if those 3 had any clues? Or are you now saying the 10 digit #s aren’t the clue? Is it something in the front or the back of the slab?
If you examine enough SE slabbed by PCI with the green border labels you'll discover something that only two living ex-graders know. That's all I'm saying on this subject except the coins are graded very conservatively and 98% (toned or not) should up-grade at a modern TPGS.
Different font?
Edited: maybe that was to tell which PCI holder was the more conservative of the versions of green holders.
Look, there was no MS-70 at the time. So many were under graded. That is not the secret but it is in the serial number and the only way you'll ever figure it out is by looking at enough PCI graded SE slabs. It has nothing to do with the actual grade of the coin.
@asheland said:
My friend who’s shop it came into said it was in one of those snap together holders with the cardboard insert. I had to have it and after comparing it to straight graded examples I concluded it was NT.
If you looks up 'AT' in a numismatic encyclopedia, this coin has a shot at being the plate coin.
Me, a few friends, and the graders at PCGS disagree.
I wouldn’t use PCGS graders as a reference point for slabbing these. Lot’s of examples on ebay shows there was/is a lax period of grading and slabbing AT examples. It’s why I got out of toned ASE’s. I like you asheland but I’m going to have to agree with the finn on your ASE.
@Insider2 said: @jmlanzaf said: "Despite my chemistry background, I try to limit my doctoring to ethical endeavors. That said, this thread has inspired me to try an experiment."
Experimentation is good. When two of us started the Numismatic Conservation Service we planned to reserve Fridays for experimentation. Unfortunately, we were too swamped with work right from the start to ever do it.
I don't get into "ethical" determinations. Is cleaning a coin to "improve it" before a sale really ethical?
Is trying to "improve it" unethical? I don't think so. If you accidentally ruin it in the pursuit of finding a way to improve coins in the future unethical, or bad?
@Insider2 said: @jmlanzaf said: "Despite my chemistry background, I try to limit my doctoring to ethical endeavors. That said, this thread has inspired me to try an experiment."
Experimentation is good. When two of us started the Numismatic Conservation Service we planned to reserve Fridays for experimentation. Unfortunately, we were too swamped with work right from the start to ever do it.
I don't get into "ethical" determinations. Is cleaning a coin to "improve it" before a sale really ethical?
Is trying to "improve it" unethical? I don't think so. If you accidentally ruin it in the pursuit of finding a way to improve coins in the future unethical, or bad?
If "improve" means get someone to pay more for it...maybe.
@Insider2 said: @jmlanzaf said: "Despite my chemistry background, I try to limit my doctoring to ethical endeavors. That said, this thread has inspired me to try an experiment."
Experimentation is good. When two of us started the Numismatic Conservation Service we planned to reserve Fridays for experimentation. Unfortunately, we were too swamped with work right from the start to ever do it.
I don't get into "ethical" determinations. Is cleaning a coin to "improve it" before a sale really ethical?
Is trying to "improve it" unethical? I don't think so. If you accidentally ruin it in the pursuit of finding a way to improve coins in the future unethical, or bad?
If "improve" means get someone to pay more for it...maybe.
I have improved several coins for my personal enjoyment. nWill they sell for more than if I hadn't improved them? Definitely. If I bought a house and neglected painting it and improving it just to sell it for more money, am I unethical?
@Insider2 said: @jmlanzaf said: "Despite my chemistry background, I try to limit my doctoring to ethical endeavors. That said, this thread has inspired me to try an experiment."
Experimentation is good. When two of us started the Numismatic Conservation Service we planned to reserve Fridays for experimentation. Unfortunately, we were too swamped with work right from the start to ever do it.
I don't get into "ethical" determinations. Is cleaning a coin to "improve it" before a sale really ethical?
Is trying to "improve it" unethical? I don't think so. If you accidentally ruin it in the pursuit of finding a way to improve coins in the future unethical, or bad?
If "improve" means get someone to pay more for it...maybe.
I have improved several coins for my personal enjoyment. nWill they sell for more than if I hadn't improved them? Definitely. If I bought a house and neglected painting it and improving it just to sell it for more money, am I unethical?
Maintenance is one thing. Removing PVC would be ethical. But if I'm artificially toning coins to get the premium, is that ethical? If I have a method for making brown cents red/brown or red, is that ethical? I think that's a much fuzzier ethical picture.
@asheland said:
I’m probably an idiot for not cashing in, but I really like it!
Did you happen to get trueviews when you had it graded?
I have this one slab shot:
I guess I need to start playing around with ASEs, especially for the kind of money some people will pay for these. I could use a new car.
With all due respect, I believe this to be natural toning. I did some comparing and wouldn't have bothered sending it to be certified if I really thought it would be AT. However, we are all learning, and if you can replicate those colors in that order on a newer eagle, I would definitely reconsider my thoughts on this.
My friend who owns a B&M had that walk in with other miscellaneous bullion, there was another toned eagle although ugly and this one. He sold it for a very slight premium because of the color. It's a 1990, so it had some time in the cardboard holder to acquire those colors. Perhaps it was stored in an odd environment, but never the less, that's how it was found. I believe it to be natural color.
@asheland said:
It was purchased in one of these:
FWIW
>
That holder is just another version of the original bank wrapped coin con. Remove from holder............ artificially tone.......... place back in holder....... tell a wild story about forgetting the coins in the attic.................. sell the hell out of it on ebay.
I bought the following three ASE's for very little premium on ebay. Ebay seller jweiler had a lot of suspect toned coins for sale at the time. Encased in a Littleton plastic and cardboard holder. Only two staples held the plastic folded together. PCGS graded and slabbed all three.
@asheland said:
It was purchased in one of these:
FWIW
>
That holder is just another version of the original bank wrapped coin con. Remove from holder............ artificially tone.......... place back in holder....... tell a wild story about forgetting the coins in the attic.................. sell the hell out of it on ebay.
I bought the following three ASE's for very little premium on ebay. Ebay seller jweiler had a lot of suspect toned coins for sale at the time. Encased in a Littleton plastic and cardboard holder. Only two staples held the plastic folded together. PCGS graded and slabbed all three.
I agree, that probably does indeed happen (AT then putting in the snap-together holder) but this one was virtually without premium. My friend bought it over the counter as bullion, tossed the snap holder in the trash, and had it just sitting on a stack of eagles. I saw it laying there and thought the toning was gorgeous. He sold me the coin for $25. That's part of why I believe it to be natural, there was no trying by anyone to sell it for big bucks. And I am the one who sent it to PCGS.
Comments
No, AFAIK the serial #'s were generated at random. Stuff as: COMSIL99, or KDH68SPR ID'ed the coin type. The answer to the puzzle is with the SE coins.
@jmlanzaf said: "Despite my chemistry background, I try to limit my doctoring to ethical endeavors. That said, this thread has inspired me to try an experiment."
Experimentation is good. When two of us started the Numismatic Conservation Service we planned to reserve Fridays for experimentation. Unfortunately, we were too swamped with work right from the start to ever do it.
I don't get into "ethical" determinations. Is cleaning a coin to "improve it" before a sale really ethical?
That's a valid question, probably worthy of its own thread.
I don't even dip coins for sale unless removing the surface contaminants seems necessary to preserve the coin, e.g. PVC.
Faking toning seems across the line. Although I must confess to actually doing it once. I had an 1850 large cent that was AU55 but had been dipped in lemon juice to redden it. Partly as another experiment, I managed to tone it to a natural looking brown and sold it as "cleaned, retoned".
I was always tempted to return to the experiment because the was one small spot on the reverse that was not brown bit a very natural looking red color. I always wondered if with a little more patience I could have made a passable red coin. But I didn't wantto be tempted to make my fortuneby upgrading brown large cents to red brown or full red.
The Weimar White book?
It happens, just sitting in the OGP, in some instances.
Why ? I suspect it's the environment. Although, not affecting every piece, it is radical, in contrast to the others, in these sets from 2011. Have you checked your original sets ?
``https://ebay.us/m/KxolR5
The 3 that I posted (after the Kennedy) are all Silver Eagles. I was asking if those 3 had any clues? Or are you now saying the 10 digit #s aren’t the clue? Is it something in the front or the back of the slab?
many definite this as time taken to achieve toning - NT being years, while AT being seconds or hours.
True, but good luck sorting that out.
Have it. Very basic but a MUST READ. You will need to hold your laughter as he believes all toning - including rainbow - is environmental damage (oxidation). Of course he is correct but so what.
Been through it. He gave a talk at our local club a number of years ago. I've wanted someone to reproduce his slab work with the more modern slabs.
Thanks @davewesen for reminding me of these folks as it is very true. Howls of laughter as I pick myself up from the floor. Help, I cannot stop.
I challenge all those "numismatic geniuses" to determine the time it took to tone a coin (if that's what they base their opinion on) when they were not around to see and time it! LOL, pure nonsense.
We received a few toned SE in those sets. AFAIK, it is the velvet "gassing." Velvet is an interesting cloth.
If you examine enough SE slabbed by PCI with the green border labels you'll discover something that only two living ex-graders know. That's all I'm saying on this subject except the coins are graded very conservatively and 98% (toned or not) should up-grade at a modern TPGS.
The slabs have been improved since the last time I saw a chemist (not him) playing around under a fume hood. Look, if you feed 80 lbs of sugar to a rat his health will suffer. So what's that prove? Since we don't normally feed the rat, the same can be said for what we do with our slabs.
There is, of course, much truth to this. But the acceleration models (see Arrhenius equation) do attempt to accelerate the normal process without introducing alternative mechanisms of decay/disease. There is, therefore, a difference between normal pressure exposures at higher temperatures and higher pressure exposures. The former should just accelerate the normal decay process while the latter could well cause a decay process that couldn't occur at normal pressures.
This is an acceleration model that can't really be done biologically with the rats you mention. There is no way to accelerate the time with temperature so they up the dose of sugar hoping that the total dose is the issue while, if they are being honest, they know they run the risk of creating new disease pathways. The obvious analogue is arsenic. We eat trace amounts of it in food and water all the time. Tiny doses over years are not the same as one massive dose.
Most. Are. Fake.
Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry
Most what?
As long as you get the point. Someone, somewhere can probably screw around with a coin in a slab and cause it to tone. This is not something that should happen under normal wear and tear and it does not include spots that developed later.
Numismatists.
"These things go for some serious money..."
This is reason enough for people to tinker with them.
I wouldnt go near a wildly toned ASE for any premium.
Dead Cat Waltz Exonumia
"Coin collecting for outcasts..."
I think the ones that were in the PCI holders have what some folks are calling target toning where the sulfur has bled from the outside of the coin toward the inside....I won’t argue at/nt but those seem like pcgs will straight grade.
Don't quote me on that.
Here's one
"Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working" Pablo Picasso
Does it have something to do with the geographical placement of the serial number on the label? For example, if it is accurately graded the serial number touches the dashed border surrounding the logo and serial number, but if the coin is thought to be higher grade than what it was slabbed as, the serial number would be shifted up closer to the logo?
If you looks up 'AT' in a numismatic encyclopedia, this coin has a shot at being the plate coin.
Me, a few friends, and the graders at PCGS disagree.
My YouTube Channel
The worst thing you can do is to leave them out in the open air, especially if they are near unsealed wood or cardboard. Sulfur will not harm your coins, but SULFIDE will. Sulfides are the chemicals that give the smell of rotten eggs. Sulfur has to react with an acid (which can be found in the air) to become active.
Different font?
Edited: maybe that was to tell which PCI holder was the more conservative of the versions of green holders.
Yes there are. Just be sure to dilute them until you see what they can do.
Doesn't mean it isn't AT. ANACS calls everything like this, "MS60 Details - Questionable Toning". They are the only ones honest about hollering these things.
Look, there was no MS-70 at the time. So many were under graded. That is not the secret but it is in the serial number and the only way you'll ever figure it out is by looking at enough PCI graded SE slabs. It has nothing to do with the actual grade of the coin.
My YouTube Channel
My YouTube Channel
That's Awesome
I wouldn’t use PCGS graders as a reference point for slabbing these. Lot’s of examples on ebay shows there was/is a lax period of grading and slabbing AT examples. It’s why I got out of toned ASE’s. I like you asheland but I’m going to have to agree with the finn on your ASE.
Is trying to "improve it" unethical? I don't think so. If you accidentally ruin it in the pursuit of finding a way to improve coins in the future unethical, or bad?
I guess I need to start playing around with ASEs, especially for the kind of money some people will pay for these. I could use a new car.
If "improve" means get someone to pay more for it...maybe.
Change in ownership - went from 10-digit S/N to 9-digit. 9-digit much more liberal.
I have improved several coins for my personal enjoyment. nWill they sell for more than if I hadn't improved them? Definitely. If I bought a house and neglected painting it and improving it just to sell it for more money, am I unethical?
Maintenance is one thing. Removing PVC would be ethical. But if I'm artificially toning coins to get the premium, is that ethical? If I have a method for making brown cents red/brown or red, is that ethical? I think that's a much fuzzier ethical picture.
With all due respect, I believe this to be natural toning. I did some comparing and wouldn't have bothered sending it to be certified if I really thought it would be AT. However, we are all learning, and if you can replicate those colors in that order on a newer eagle, I would definitely reconsider my thoughts on this.
My friend who owns a B&M had that walk in with other miscellaneous bullion, there was another toned eagle although ugly and this one. He sold it for a very slight premium because of the color. It's a 1990, so it had some time in the cardboard holder to acquire those colors. Perhaps it was stored in an odd environment, but never the less, that's how it was found. I believe it to be natural color.
My YouTube Channel
It was purchased in one of these:
FWIW
My YouTube Channel
>
That holder is just another version of the original bank wrapped coin con. Remove from holder............ artificially tone.......... place back in holder....... tell a wild story about forgetting the coins in the attic.................. sell the hell out of it on ebay.
I bought the following three ASE's for very little premium on ebay. Ebay seller jweiler had a lot of suspect toned coins for sale at the time. Encased in a Littleton plastic and cardboard holder. Only two staples held the plastic folded together. PCGS graded and slabbed all three.
I agree, that probably does indeed happen (AT then putting in the snap-together holder) but this one was virtually without premium. My friend bought it over the counter as bullion, tossed the snap holder in the trash, and had it just sitting on a stack of eagles. I saw it laying there and thought the toning was gorgeous. He sold me the coin for $25. That's part of why I believe it to be natural, there was no trying by anyone to sell it for big bucks. And I am the one who sent it to PCGS.
My YouTube Channel
@bolivarshagnasty as for those eagles you show, I don't know about them... Did they straight grade?
My YouTube Channel
Noice! I just noiced your noice.
Member has 36 posts, all of them "noice." Joke is getting old
Dead Cat Waltz Exonumia
"Coin collecting for outcasts..."
Well, it was cute the first 35 times...but everything gets old, right? I'm sure you've got something more to add to the discussion. Let's hear it
Dead Cat Waltz Exonumia
"Coin collecting for outcasts..."