Opinions Please
I have a complete set of 1967 Topps baseball cards. 22 of them are PSA graded.
The remaining raw cards are 10% VG-EX, 40% EX, 40% EX-MT, 10% NM.
What would you rather have, a complete set with PSA and raw or complete raw set?
Thanks!
Comments
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- complete set of PSA no raw
Best place to buy !
Bronze Associate member0 -
@Kkathyl said:
3. complete set of PSA no rawNot going to happen with this set.
I have a complete 1966 Topps Master Set of Baseball cards with a GPA in the 8's. One set is enough.
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I have several 1970 sets that are a mix of PSA and raw cards so I vote PSA and raw. P.S. For my sets that are less than NM I crack the 6.5's and less out of the holder and put the raw card in the binder
Collecting 1970 Topps baseball0 -
A couple different ways to look at it. Generally, I like to have my sets raw so they’re all together and can enjoy them complete. However, if you have high grade vintage, it’s just sometimes prudent to have cards graded (if you ever needed to sell, or so your heirs know what you have, etc). For 67, if I thought the Mantle had a shot at a 9 (and prob even an 8), Id send it in. If it’s a 4, I’d leave it raw and keep it with the set. That’s just me though.
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Oh man, '67 is one of my favorite sets. I tried to put this set together in PSA 7 or better, but gave up after trying to get some of the hi numbers. For me a raw set is nice, placed in a good quality binder with clean pages. I think for anything valued over $100 I would want that card PSA graded. A mix between raw and graded doesn't bother me too much
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I like to have graded stars and raw commons for most large sets. The stars are the vast majority of the value, so it makes the set more liquid.
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If it's for my personal collection, I would upgrade the 10% VG-EX to at least well centered EX to EX-MT and then go through the EX's and upgrade any off-centered to at least EX to EX-MT. I would not bother getting them graded. Would also crack out graded cards unless you have something special (you weren't specific on what was what).
I would then do as phelda suggests. Nice binder. Set should display beautifully!
If it's for sale I would grade the Mantle, Clemente, Carew, Seaver, B Robinson (if they aren't already) to make sure they are authentic and any of the 10% NM that are "key" cards.
If you are selling and willing to spend a little time, I would at least upgrade the VG-EX cards, makes for a nicer set.
What are your plans for the set?
2013,14 and 15 Certificate Award Winner Harmon Killebrew Master Set and Master Topps Set0 -
95% raw, 5% graded psa of major stars and/or high value cards
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@JoeBanzai said:
If it's for my personal collection, I would upgrade the 10% VG-EX to at least well centered EX to EX-MT and then go through the EX's and upgrade any off-centered to at least EX to EX-MT. I would not bother getting them graded. Would also crack out graded cards unless you have something special (you weren't specific on what was what).I would then do as phelda suggests. Nice binder. Set should display beautifully!
If it's for sale I would grade the Mantle, Clemente, Carew, Seaver, B Robinson (if they aren't already) to make sure they are authentic and any of the 10% NM that are "key" cards.
If you are selling and willing to spend a little time, I would at least upgrade the VG-EX cards, makes for a nicer set.
What are your plans for the set?
Sell once upgrade, in the next few months, before 2019.
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I would got the mix of PSA and raw. I built both 1955 Topps and 1971 Topps sets with the HOFers PSA graded and everything else ungraded. I agree with JoeBanzai that you may want to upgrade the 10% VG-EX.
Daniel1
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