Any advantage on type of gold ?
1630Boston
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What would you buy for gold, not for numismatic value, 1/2 oz AGE's or common graded Liberty Eagles ?
Why?
Thanks for your input 
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Comments
From a strictly "gold" point of view you have to calculate your per oz. price to determine the best deal. You also have to consider ease of resale for each. You definitely want your quarter eagles certified as many were counterfeited. This will drive up your cost for them but will enhance their chance of future sale.
Here's the gold content:
$25 half ounce AGE: .5 oz
$2.50 quarter eagle: .1209 oz.
$5 half eagle: .2419 oz.
$10 eagle: .4838 oz.
$20 double eagle: .9675
My preference is AGEs for a bullion play. On occasion you can find them in MS69 for not much premium. Certified is always better when it comes to resale.
No Way Out: Stimulus and Money Printing Are the Only Path Left
No one can quantify whether certified coins are a better play. They cost more generally , they sell for more generally but spot fluctuates all the time buyers and sellers change strategies constantly .
You can line up all the dominoes you want but a random $50 drop in spot can have more effect than any of it and then can reverse itself a week later as though it never happened.
Timing is the most important factor in my mind. Even to the extent of the day of the week you buy or sell. Take a roll of ASE's into a dealer on a wednesday and get a quote , do the same thing on a friday at 330 PM and I bet you get offered less even with spot being the same. The difference between wednesday and friday offers could zero out the benefits of an MS 69 slab over raw on a 1/4 or 1/2 ounce. Look on ebay and you can see patterns of when bidders go after coins regardless of spot , don't buy then . By the same token if you are a seller don't end your auction on wednesday at 3am or all the slab in the world won't get you an extra bid increment.
If I could choose between bullion and pre-33 for the same price I'd always go for the pre-33.
Me too. But it would have to be a price per ounce comparison and I would want any pre-33 to be certified.
No Way Out: Stimulus and Money Printing Are the Only Path Left
The answer is, it depends on how the market is for pre-1933 gold. The premiums over melt can fluctuate wildly.
Back in the early 80's when premiums were way down I bought a harshly cleaned Saint from Fred Weinberg for melt. I put it in a bezel and wore it as jewelry. A few years later people in Japan suddenly developed an insane desire for Saints. I got about $400 over melt for it.
Right now the premiums on pre-1933 are way down. What the future will bring, I have no idea.
SCRAP gold, while WAY unpopular...."should" be able to be bought locally for oh...maybe 96% of spot tops.
Dealers seldom can get more than 96% ....and... have to ship it.
I bet they'd KISS a local buyer of it.
BUT....beware on selling..... you'd need to do QUANTITY to get top price from the refiners.
ON
THE
OTHER
HAND
There ain't no way in hell that a bunch of old cut up and bent rings and stuff would EVER be the target of a government call in.
Esoteric? Yep.
But still "out there".....for the right party.
>
I believe that the reference to certified coins being a better play has to do with the fact that they are more trustworthy as to authenticity and not because they are "better" coins, esp. for the greenhorn buying his/her first gold.
Or buy from trustworthy sellers who have the means to PMV their gold. If a coin contained the right amount of gold would anyone care that much if it was a common date $20 Lib, but counterfeit?
I sure as hell would care.
Worry is the interest you pay on a debt you may not owe.
"Paper money eventually returns to its intrinsic value---zero."----Voltaire
"Everything you say should be true, but not everything true should be said."----Voltaire
I suppose at a time when premiums for pre-33 gold were higher, it might have made sense to counterfeit them. If you are giving the right amount of gold for the coin, it makes little sense to counterfeit them now. Hopefully, most of the counterfeits have been reined in.
I can envision a situation or 2 where it wouldn't matter as long as I didn't lose money.
I stick to North American minted gold. I like a mix of majority AGE's, some 24K Buffaloes, as well as pre-33 liberty and indian coins. Very few 1/10 oz, majority 1/4 oz, with balance in 1/2 and full oz. sizes. Some low mintage, high grade slabbed, others commons, but at least BU or MS 63
Depends on how much money you have, and what your reason for stacking is, too.
For smaller amounts of money--a few thousand $$--classic $5 and $10 pieces are hard to beat right now. Keep an eye out for certified AU/MS pieces with low premiums. If those can't be found, then 1/4 eagles are fantastic if they can be found with low premiums. Easy to sell precise amounts as needed rather than cashing in a whole ounce.
$10,000 or more, I'd look at full ounce coins.
--Severian the Lame
Some very solid advice in here. Agree with Weiss, and a lot of what has been said above. When it comes to the yellow stuff, I like it all. Slight preference to pre-33's, my particular favorite is the $20 Liberty Double Eagles
International players do favor the 24k stuff, by and large. I still Jones for the pre-33's.
I also haven't, and don't plan to sell abroad. So concerns me 0.
Thats the thing , plan how or where you want to sell when you buy. Adjustments will be needed along the way . Starting with no exit strategy is a recipe for mixed results at best.
How much would you need to own in order to consider selling abroad? For let's say 10 ounces, I wouldn't even waste my time.
Funny that the folks who hype and promote gold offer little or no advice about how to sell it once you've decided to get out.
Well no ,
if they sold it to you then you were their "exit strategy" they may need your services again. Wise men don't burn bridges if they can avoid it.
Not necessarily. What's wrong with a dealer offering a buyback?
I always factor in Time and Fun.
How much time will you spend buying, owning, and selling the items, and how much fun will you have in the process.
Then figure out how much Money your time and fun are Worth, and that helps with your decision on what to buy, for how much, and also how long to hold, and when and how to sell them.
Because, after all, they are just little pieces of metal.
Liberty: Parent of Science & Industry
I would say get both and have fun and enjoy. The AGEs you can flip really fast, the liberty eagles can be flipped fast depending on the price you are asking for them but overall its a better choice than other things people spend their money on.
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I like common modern commemorative gold half eagles as a bullion play. In a large metropolitan area you can frequently pick them up for as little as 1 or 2% over melt and sell them if necessary for as much as 98% of melt.
it's crackers to slip a rozzer the dropsy in snide
I've never met a dealer I wanted to sell to , except as a last resort
I rarely buy from local dealers. I have on occasion sold to dealers when a fair buy price was offered. One could maybe get a little more by selling online, but that is frequently offset by walking away with a good check in hand as opposed to shipping them and sweating out the possibility that the package will get lost. For someone with limited selling venues, trying to get $50-$70 over that the big boys ask for AGEs is a fool's errand.
I own some of each type. As cool as the Libs are, it will NEVER stop bothering me that they are .4838oz. I like things to be in logical increments, which is why I prefer AGE's to pre-33 or even modern commems.