Where do I improve? Numis Photography
Numiven
Posts: 382 ✭✭✭
I am a young numismatist. I have lots to learn.
I have tried my hand on some ameturish numismatic photography. Please help me improve, by letting me know what I can do better to be more skillful in taking photos of coins. A little detailed tip is appreciated.
I am practising this art (photography) for last month and eventually I want to achieve quality as good as PCGS Trueview. Thats my goal.
One issue I have is I cant get the sharpness on my raw images as good as trueview gets. I am using a 24MP entry level dslr, with kit lens.
Here is a non holdered coin:
One in PCGS holder MS 64:
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Comments
Sorry I can't help with suggestions but it looks like you've got the talent and already well on your way
You need to work on your lighting.
I currently use 10-2 lighting with white LED bulbs.
Any suggestions?
Lighting is my enemy and you take better pictures than I do, so I can't give you any advice.
But I'd recommend getting this book:
Numismatic Photography, 2nd edition 2nd Edition
by Mark Goodman (Author)
There is an excellent book on the subject that may offer help by one of our members here:
Numismatic Photography by Mark Goodman
Proof Buffalo Registry Set
Capped Bust Quarters Registry Set
Proof Walking Liberty Halves Registry Set
Ordered it 2 days ago, its coming.
Great to know that Mark Goodman is here: Do they have a pdf/kindle version available?
The pics you have shown look pretty good. For a young person money is going to be your enemy. You can have a 100mp camera and the lens is going to be your most important factor for clarity. Kit lenses are usually not the best quality, and several guys here including myself use a macro lens which helps a lot. A good one can be as much or more than the camera you have. Then there are the other accessories as well to factor in to the game. You said you ordered Mark Goodman's book. I do not know what other photographic experience you have but you might want to pick up a book on basic photography as well. It will help you to learn about the functions of a DSLR and terminology because the auto mode on your camera is almost always insufficient.
True. I have a 50mm/f1.8 as a prime. Can I use it as a macro for coins?
I have heard good things about tamron lenses.
What should i be looking in a macro for coins?
100 mm fixed macro lens, I prefer Canon.
As to lighting, play with the height and angle of the light. Most coins with people should be lighted like you are lighting a portrait of a person.
50mm is called a standard lens and you have to get it too close to your subject to make the pic good. It also does not produce a 1:1 image like a macro does. A longer focal length is better such as a 150 mm or 180mm. That also helps with the lighting. Tamron is a good company and many here will back up that statement. Sigma is also a good lens but it is just a matter of preference. The brand of camera you have will likely also make a macro lens but the will probably be a little more expensive.
Edited for terminology.
Are you shooting tethered to a PC? Canon cameras come with the software; I find it essential to be able to properly focus and see the image before shooting. It's also invaluable for getting the white balance correct.
A Tamron 100mm lens is a great way to start out; you should be able to find a nice used one for around $200. Hopefully you're also using a copy stand- that's very important as well.
I'm currently using a Sigma 150mm lens with a Canon 50D body. It's a great setup, but the Sigma 150mm lens is HEAVY and pricy; it also forced me into a much more expensive copy stand.
For now I would suggest a used Tamron 100mm Macro lens and an inexpensive copy stand. Some day you'll graduate to better equipment, but you can always sell as you upgrade. So far it looks like you're doing a great job!
I second the advice to get and digest Mark's book. I refer to it all the time.
When it comes to sharp detail, the key is in having a stable platform. A copy stand is essential and a way to trigger the shutter remotely is also helpful. When shooting coins in slabs, the autofocus feature will not work (it will focus on the slab) so you'll need to set it manually for each shot.
For me, the trick is to use the tethered software package that came with the camera. I use Canon's program. The computer controls the camera and lets me preview the image, adjust white balance, set the shutter, ISO and aperture settings, and precisely zoom in and focus perfectly all before taking a single shot. After that, it's just a matter of getting the light exactly right. The software allows me to lock the mirror up too, so there are fewer vibrations. I use enough light to get shutter speeds in the 1/300 to 1/2000 range, depending on the coin. Even with a copy stand someone walking up or down the stairs in my house produces enough vibrations to make a difference. Lighting is key and learning all of those tricks just takes practice. Reading Mark's book will skip you ahead a few grades.
I rank the importance of the various bits of hardware in this order (#2 and #3 are of roughly equal importance):
Stable platform (a solid copy stand or at the very least a sturdy tripod)
High Quality Lens (a kit lens is pretty limited. My 100mm Canon macro lens accounted for 80% of the setup cost)
Appropriate lighting and a way to position it
Software
Camera body
Your photos are already good. A bit of knowledge and the right hardware will make a tremendous difference. When I look back at my early attempts they're pretty pathetic.