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Rattler Cert # coming up as something else?

ProofmorganProofmorgan Posts: 815 ✭✭✭✭✭
I recently purchased a 1874 $10 in XF45 Rattler. #5026731

The coin is crusty, undergraded a bit, and rotated in the holder. Looks fresh and no CAC yet.

Nothing seems off about the holder, label, or coin. The issue is, the cert verifier returns "1941-S 1C MS66RD"

Has anyone run into this before? I sent Customer Service a message with photos front and back and no response in a week.
Collector of Original Early Gold with beginnings in Proof Morgan collecting.

Comments

  • MonsterCoinzMonsterCoinz Posts: 1,518 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yes. There's another thread created today about ASE's in Rattlers and the cert # is incorrect for one of the examples.
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  • ProofmorganProofmorgan Posts: 815 ✭✭✭✭✭
    What a coincidence. Customer service just responded and stated that I could submit the coin for a holder check and they could verify it. Although, they said they would have to re-holder it due to the discrepancy. I didn't like the latter part of that answer. Do you think CAC would have an issue with stickering due to the issue with the cert #?
    Collector of Original Early Gold with beginnings in Proof Morgan collecting.
  • oih82w8oih82w8 Posts: 12,606 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Proofmorgan, all I can say about restickering with CAC is document/image the holder PRIOR to having it rehodered. If the certification number stays the same it should be no problem at all. I have read stories where people have had their coin crossed-over from ATS to PCGS and vice-versa with no problem when they submitted the images prior to.



    ***edit***



    I just reread your post, and I though that the coin was CAC'd already.



    CAC does not care what the certification number is for a never submitted coin...it's all about the coin itself, not the holder, unless you are having restickered for a new holder.
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  • TomBTomB Posts: 22,080 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I've written on the boards a number of times that many years ago, if I recall correctly, PCGS stated that some coins with cert numbers beginning 50 were not put into their database correctly. In my experience, I have had a few such coins that do not show up properly. My bet is that CAC would not really care about this issue.
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  • BAJJERFANBAJJERFAN Posts: 31,324 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Originally posted by: mach1ne

    Yes. There's another thread created today about ASE's in Rattlers and the cert # is incorrect for one of the examples.




    Both cert numbers correctly describe the same coin. The coin numbers must have been changed AFTER those 2 examples were slabbed.
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  • etexmikeetexmike Posts: 6,852 ✭✭✭
    I had 4 coins in the rattler holders that came up as another coin with the cert verification and not the coin actually in the holder.



    Losing the rattler is the only way to straighten out the cert #'s. I preferred to keep the old holder.



    I check every coin now before making a purchase just to verify the coin matches the PCGS database.



    If you are playing the registry game it does make a difference. image





    Mike
  • stevebensteveben Posts: 4,638 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Originally posted by: Proofmorgan

    I recently purchased a 1874 $10 in XF45 Rattler. #5026731



    The coin is crusty, undergraded a bit, and rotated in the holder. Looks fresh and no CAC yet.



    Nothing seems off about the holder, label, or coin. The issue is, the cert verifier returns "1941-S 1C MS66RD"



    Has anyone run into this before? I sent Customer Service a message with photos front and back and no response in a week.




    yes, i have had this happen to me before. the holder was legit, but the cert brought up another coin. apparently, there was a problem with duplicate cert numbers for a short time.



    i don't know how cac will deal with this since their whole system is based on the certs. perhaps they can add a letter or .1 or something for duplicates.



    you should verify the rattler is real. use the diagnostics in condor's pcgs slab history thread. these have helped me spot fakes twice.



    also, check the top of the slab for integrity. i have seen some that have been opened and glued back together. you can see there are two parts of the slab that "grab" each other. using your fingernails, gently apply opposing force to attempt to open the slab. if it's been glued or opened before, it will come open easily.

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