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Klinger83, Apple383, Greg Morris. Who are the best ebay set breakers?
CrissCriss
Posts: 777 ✭✭✭
Those sellers seem to be the heavy hitters who break sets on the Bay. Anyone else? Who's the best of the Big Three? Is there a 4th out there so we could call them the Fab Four?
The Crisser
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<< <i>Meat Loaf (the singer) composed a tune which might be rather appropriate about now. >>
Paradise By The Dashboard Light? No judging here, it's cool......
<< <i>Meat Loaf (the singer) composed a tune which might be rather appropriate about now. >>
Think I know that tune
With my experiences I agree with the above statement.
The purchases I have made from Apple383 so far have all been graded cards, so I can't give an opinion there.
-CDs Nuts, 1/20/14
*1956 Topps baseball- 97.4% complete, 7.24 GPA
*Clemente basic set: 85.0% complete, 7.89 GPA
<< <i>PWCC got some strong prices on a recent graded 1969 set break. >>
yeah. where are some more of these commons? Davenport, Britton & Hannon.
sounds like the name of a law firm.
<< <i>"Klinger is fine also, but one full grade overgraded. It's not like old school grading, but you def shouldn't pay psa 7 prices for anything he lists as nrmt."
With my experiences I agree with the above statement. >>
I also agree with this.
Greg Morris is the best.
Klinger 383 does get some nice cards. Have bought...but only psa graded.
Some of his raw auctions are way overgraded. Recently noticed an auction description of nmt and card is showing a crease.
1948-76 Topps FB Sets
FB & BB HOF Player sets
1948-1993 NY Yankee Team Sets
Nick
<< <i>I have found Klinger's raw grading to be fairly accurate, although less so than Greg Morris. Agree that Steve Novella is good. I'd rank them Morris, Novella, Klinger. >>
I agree with the rank. Klinger's raw grades are definitely a little over-inflated. I've had great experiences with Apple and Morris.
Makes no sense at all.
<< <i>Has ANYONE consigned to these guys? Greg Morris seems to be a nickel and dimer, and I have concerns about one of the others. >>
the answer to your question is an emphatic "yes". couldn't be more satisfied with how Greg carried out our arrangements last year. moved a lot of product, got paid well & quickly.
my suggestion would be to put your experiences behind your criticism, otherwise best to consider how your current behavior might affect your future relationships. spreading BS about people without facts to support your contentions is a dangerous thing.
<< <i>Is one of those bbuckner? >>
Apple383 is bbuckner.
<< <i>I still don't understand guys who bid graded prices(esp premium prices) for raw cards.
Makes no sense at all. >>
I still don't understand guys who somehow think they have a higher quality card because its in a slab with some hourly employee's label on it.
I buy cards, not labels. And I like em RAW. I even break many of the out of those silly rattle trap cases.
<< <i>
<< <i>I still don't understand guys who bid graded prices(esp premium prices) for raw cards.
Makes no sense at all. >>
I still don't understand guys who somehow think they have a higher quality card because its in a slab with some hourly employee's label on it.
I buy cards, not labels. And I like em RAW. I even break many of the out of those silly rattle trap cases. >>
I've been known to break what i thought was a under graded vintage card out of it's holder. What kinds of cards and price range will you break out?
Can't wait to free the Danny White for my 77 Set!
Cards are not a monetary investment to me. I buy cards for the nostalgic enjoyment they provide to me. Im not concerned with the precieved "Value".
If breaking the card out devalues that precieved "Value" so be it. Im not after the label or the slab or any speculative money profit. Im after the CARD,
there's no pyhisical change or difference in the CARD itself, weather it be in or out of the slab.
Other factors such as storage and being able to enjoy your sets and cards more easily are also contributing factors as to why I prefer to collect Raw.
I also don't like the "protection" any of the TPG slabs offer. The poor design makes them more likely to damage the card in the long term IMHO.
If this makes me the odd man out in todays "For profit" hobby, Im fine with that. Im not concerned weather or not I ever get one red dime back for any of these cards, thats not why I have them.
Here's a freakin KILLER card I got From Greg Morris. WHY, would one pay a premium for a raw card? The answer is simple: Because the ones in comparable TPGing slabs were not as nice and
Greg conseratively undergraded this beauty IMHO.
How bout this Jim Hart Rookie. A freakin Flawless Mint Beauty! Im sure its not as nice as those in slabs with that fancy label on it though.
We all have our own preferences to how and why we collect and thats what makes the hobby great. I can certainly see and understand the allure of collecting graded cards and sets and
have enjoyed building a couple of graded sets myself, but the real value to me personally always seems to take me back to the collecting days of my youth and what the cards meant to me then
in their purest form.
Grading Fees............................ $200+
Shipping & Insurance..................$30
Resub/Review Fees...................$200+
The Touch, Feel and Smell of a Raw card.............. Priceless
<< <i>Other factors such as storage and being able to enjoy your sets and cards more easily are also contributing factors as to why I prefer to collect Raw.
I also don't like the "protection" any of the TPG slabs offer. The poor design makes them more likely to damage the card in the long term IMHO. >>
Interesting. You have hit on 2 reasons I prefer graded. Now granted, I still have lil rugrats runnin aroung, so it might not be the same for
everybody of course. But +1 for storage and +1000 for protection (long term, I dunno, I guess time will tell).
I remember when my youngest daughter and i were goofin around with some graded cards (stuff I had from buying lots that I didnt want).
We(she) were building roads, houses, whatever. Trying to teach her to be careful with them (responsibility), and at the same time, have
some fun. Boy, she would try to be careful, but every so often, oops, one fell off the coffee table. No dinged corners, no creases, etc.
Now granted, if I didnt have the graded slabs, we would of just played with junk cards. But, them slabbed cards are what she seen dad
playing with so Im sure it meant more to her. Man, shes 11 now, where did the time go (She doesnt give 2 poops about the cards anymore).
Anyways, enough of that. I dont know the first thing about any of the set-breakers. I havent bought anything raw off of e-bay in several
years. Heck, I dont think ive bought anything card related off there in maybe a year or better(but dont quote me on that)
.
.
We all have our own preferences to how and why we collect and thats what makes the hobby great. I can certainly see and understand the allure of collecting graded cards and sets and
have enjoyed building a couple of graded sets myself, but the real value to me personally always seems to take me back to the collecting days of my youth and what the cards meant to me then
in their purest form.
Grading Fees............................ $200+
Shipping & Insurance..................$30
Resub/Review Fees...................$200+
The Touch, Feel and Smell of a Raw card.............. Priceless >>
Thanks for the reply and pictures.I also have a preference for the raw cards. I get alot of enjoyment searching for a great raw vintage card but also search for those undergraded PSA cards to crack out . Someday I may want to sell my collection so I understand cracking cards out of their holder may lower the value. At what price do you feel its unwise to crack a graded card out of it's holder?
My personal opinion, it makes sense to not bust out a collectible if it's a condition-sensitive issue, let's say, a PSA 9 vintage card that is worth multiples more than a PSA 8 of the same. You break it out and you take the chance that you may not be able to get it into a 9 holder again -- and thus recoup your money, if you wish to sell in the future. Yep, if the money matters not one iota to you, this is a moot point. But at some point, money matters to most people, at least a little.
If I were heck-bent on cracking cards for my collection, I'd focus on cracking cards that looked very nice for their grades, but weren't supergrades. For vintage, let's say, 6s and 7s, vs. 8s and 9s.
MOO, and YMMV.
<< <i>Pressed the wrong button
Thanks for the reply and pictures.I also have a preference for the raw cards. I get alot of enjoyment searching for a great raw vintage card but also search for those undergraded PSA cards to crack out . Someday I may want to sell my collection so I understand cracking cards out of their holder may lower the value. At what price do you feel its unwise to crack a graded card out of it's holder? >>
Obviously I wouldn't crack out a High Grade Mantle, Ruth etc.. But then again I don't collect those cards. I collect high grade 60's and 70's Football and while I have keep a few Key cards intacted theres not much I wouldn't be comfortable cracking. Here are some cards I have cracked for my sets:
ALL PSA/SGC 9's
All PSA/SGC 8's
My 70 Topps Set has over 60 crackouts in it including this PSA 10
Cracked both these for my 57 Set. Care to guess the grades?
68 crackouts High End PSA 8's
Cracked Virtually a whole set of these.
More High Grade Crack Outs?
Just getting ready to bust out this awesome Danny White Rookie next!
To Be fair I have a 72 FB set all Graded, as well as working on a Graded 55 All American set. I do retain a Mint 9 Walter Payton in my 76 Set.
But Yes, there is just about nothing I won't break out in the area's I collect. If my children or spouse want to do the leg work for anything these sets might be worth thats up to them. Otherwise they can pitch them all in the trash or better yet bury them with me when Im dead and gone.
Their Financial Future has been secured by other responsible means and is in noway dependant on any speculative value on the silly little hobby Ive enjoyed from my youth until now.
I always catch a lot of flack about why I collect this way, but thats ok, Its MY collection and I can do with it what I want.
Take Care Guys!
Always look forward to Johns post and raw card pickups cause I know
Im about to be in for a Wow moment.Love the 68s,man what a great looking set.
I like the casual mention of the lil 72 set graded you have,its only the #1 set not only
in the registry but theeye test as well.
Im guessing the Starr is a 7.5/8 crackout?? If I won John
just send it my way
Needs'
1972 Football-9's high#'s
1965 Football-8's
1958 Topps FB-7-8
<< <i>
I like the casual mention of the lil 72 set graded you have,its only the #1 set not only
in the registry but the eye test as well.
>>
Being #1 on the registry while preserving the eye test is extremely difficult. There are so many registry collectors who will take the highest graded flip no matter what, that competing with that is too much for me. I feel my wacky sets are excellent with the eye test as well, though I will never be at the top of the registry.
If I were heck-bent on cracking cards for my collection, I'd focus on cracking cards that looked very nice for their grades, but weren't supergrades. For vintage, let's say, 6s and 7s, vs. 8s
Yeah that's about where I'm at. I really enjoy finding a older vintage 5 or 6 that's centered with nice corners that may have a surface dimple or two.They just look better in a plastic card saver. imho.
Corncobb's pile of plastic is awesome and so neat. My pile is usually small pieces of plastic all over the place. I hear about it when my wife steps on a small morsel of hard plastic.
<< <i>So now that Jeff Kling passed away, who's picking up the slack? I can't see Greg Morris doing anymore than he already does, so is it apple383? Or is he doing anything at all? >>
Who knows?
<< <i>
<< <i>So now that Jeff Kling passed away, who's picking up the slack? I can't see Greg Morris doing anymore than he already does, so is it apple383? Or is he doing anything at all? >>
Who knows? >>
Go ahead and give it a try, Sean.