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Post a photo of your coin photography rig.
Alltheabove76
Posts: 1,536 ✭✭✭✭
Camera: Canon 5D Mark II.
Lens: Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM
Lights: Two Jansjo's
Copy Stand
Remote Shutter Release
Expodisc (for perfect white balance)
0
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Nikon D300 w/ Nikon 105mm Macro
CFL Bulbs
Gray Card for white balance
I use a 5 second delay shutter release in camera right now.
Not really looking for much these days but if I were, it might be a toner.
And a typical shot taken with my "rig":
--Severian the Lame
My Early Large Cents
<< <i>Nice coin! (1921 $1) >>
See how good my rig is? The coin is an absolute DOG in person
--Severian the Lame
My Early Large Cents
This is all a work in progress. This little lens was upgraded to a 100mm Canon Macro. Hopefully soon I'll be able to upgrade the camera body. The stand & lights have been enormously helpful.
Silver dollar setup shown. For half dollars and smaller coins, I'll use a 200mm AF-D Micro-Nikkor in manual focus mode.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
My Early Large Cents
Sony Alpha a65, Tamron 90mm F2.8 lens, light mounts and stand off eBay, and 2 GE reveal bulbs.
The results are good enough for me to enjoy when I do not have physical access to my collection.
<< <i>Mark, what is the function of the white tray/box? >>
The white thing is a slab tilter. It allows me to tilt the slab (I image most coins tilted) consistently as much as I please. It also allows side-to-side tilting to correct for coin tilt inside of the slab if need be.
it also has a nice corner on it so I can consistently place slabs in the same place for slab pictures (easier for post-processing).
My Early Large Cents
Canon Macro Lens EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM (probably didn't need the L-series, but I got a deal)
Mounted to a big heavy copy stand with a tripod mount ring clamped around the lens.
Usually use high color temp CFL bulbs as they stay cool and do not burn me when I move the lights
Love the setup and being able to tether it to my laptop computer and take the shots with the click of the mouse!
Michael Kittle Rare Coins --- 1908-S Indian Head Cent Grading Set --- No. 1 1909 Mint Set --- Kittlecoins on Facebook --- Long Beach Table 700
<< <i>What lens is that? >>
I also have the Canon T4i Rebel
Canon Macro Lens EF 100mm f/2.8L IS USM
The copy stand is only 12" so I had to spin it around and build up the height.
The ammo can full of rolled cents is a counterweight to balence the camera.
Also I level the camera before each shoot.
<< <i>Very cool. where can one purchase a slab tilter?
Alltheabove76 this works quite well and PM me for rapid order processing!
<< <i>
mgoodm3, Have you noticed a difference by mass dampening the stand with weights and your heavy granite topped rack as far as vibration isolation is concerned
I'm very happy with the mirrorless Sony a77. I updated my 180mm Sigma (lower right) to the Minolta 200mm Macro APO G lens. I looked a long time but finally found a slightly used one. Amazing lens!
The focus rail (from Really Right Stuff) is nice for slight focus tweaks, and very handy for stacking (I use the objective on the left and half a ping pong ball as a light defuser -- thanks to rpmsrpms for pointing the way!). The middle lens is a 50mm macro, good for slabs and other larger objects.
I rigged up an AC connector (swapping batteries is a pain), and a toggle switch, lower left, for USB connectivity (moving memory cards is a pain). Not shown is the monitor tethered to the camera for adjusting lighting, focus, etc. Remote shutter dangles on the right, diffusion material at the top (white rip-stop nylon sewn to coat hangers -- a tip from Mark G.).
I mostly use halogen (either PAR 50 floods or Philips Halogena, which I really prefer). I experiment a lot and my study is filled with bulbs. My wife thinks I have a light fetish.
Lance.
this thread should be linked anytime someone has a question about numismotography!~
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<< <i>
<< <i>
mgoodm3, Have you noticed a difference by mass dampening the stand with weights and your heavy granite topped rack as far as vibration isolation is concerned
For normal coin pics, it won't make a lot of difference. When shooting at very high magnification, mass is useful to dampen any vibrations. There are also sorbothane bumpers between the granite and the table holding it. I would like to brace my copy stand arm to the wall, but haven't gotten around to that.
Everyone wins.
<< <i>mgoodm3, Have you noticed a difference by mass dampening the stand with weights and your heavy granite topped rack as far as vibration isolation is concerned
For normal coin pics, it won't make a lot of difference. When shooting at very high magnification, mass is useful to dampen any vibrations. There are also sorbothane bumpers between the granite and the table holding it. I would like to brace my copy stand arm to the wall, but haven't gotten around to that. >>
Thanks as I also use cork sandwiched between waffled neoprene between the floor and table under the stand which made a major difference with lil feet traffic in the house. The wall mount idea sounds great as it's rigid, however offers no isolation unless your property rural and distanced from a street.
"If I say something in the woods and my wife isn't there to hear it.....am I still wrong?"
My Washington Quarter Registry set...in progress
<< <i>Hey messydesk! Does this look familiar? You've come a long way.
Yes, it does! I saw the picture before reading your post and thought, "Hey, that looks familiar."
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
https://pcgs.com/setregistry/showcase/2819
<< <i>
<< <i>Hey messydesk! Does this look familiar? You've come a long way.
Yes, it does! I saw the picture before reading your post and thought, "Hey, that looks familiar." >>
So glad I got to show you that it's still being put to good use.
Allow me to thank you again, five years after my original "thanks". (Has it really been that long? Yikes!)
"If I say something in the woods and my wife isn't there to hear it.....am I still wrong?"
My Washington Quarter Registry set...in progress
http://macrocoins.com
http://www.shieldnickels.net
<< <i>Here's a custom job made for me 15-20 years ago by collector Dave Noble. Still going strong. That's a Nikon 995 on the stand. Yes, this is in my bathroom. I bounce light off the big mirror - works very well. Looks like it could be a twin to the stand sparky64 posted. >>
It is. I originally got it from Dave.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
http://macrocoins.com
My Early Large Cents
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Here's my best shot so far, any comments, tips welcome....thanks in advance....
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<< <i>Why do most (all?) of you feel a huge amount of Light is so important? >>
It produces better pictures than using a huge amount of dark.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
Lance.
So if you really want to see it......PM me.
Coin Club Benefit auctions ..... View the Lots
Fast SS such as 1/100? 1/160? Faster?
<< <i><<Lots of light allows faster shutter speeds which yield sharper images. >>
Fast SS such as 1/100? 1/160? Faster? >>
In the aperture priority mode shutter speed will vary. The below 181.7 was shot at 1/2000 with aperture at f/5.6, ISO 100, using a 200mm lens. Most coins I shoot are probably around 1/160, though.
Lance.
That is fast. I seem to have pretty good luck shooting Morgans at 1/200 or 1/250, F9, ISO 100, exposure comp +0.7 using a 55mm Micro Nikor. I was told it's better to darken a bright image versus lightening a dark image that's why I bump up the exposure comp. Do you do the same?
Hoard the keys.
<< <i><<The below 181.7 was shot at 1/2000 >>
That is fast. I seem to have pretty good luck shooting Morgans at 1/200 or 1/250, F9, ISO 100, exposure comp +0.7 using a 55mm Micro Nikor. I was told it's better to darken a bright image versus lightening a dark image that's why I bump up the exposure comp. Do you do the same? >>
I'm usually around 1/250 to 1/500 for flashy Morgans. Where you are sounds about right. You can get away with a slightly lower aperture if you want to speed up the shutter. But stay mid-range, say F6 - F9.
If you're shooting raw (I think you are now) then whether you choose to have the camera brighten the image, or use your editor to do the same, is really a matter of preference. I rarely touch the exposure composition setting anymore. It's just an extra step. I will usually tweak exposure with the editor anyway. I'd say experiment a little but do what works best for you. There is no one way to any of this. The best photographers on this forum don't necessarily agree on lighting, cameras, lenses, technique, etc.
Lance.
<< <i>The best photographers on this forum don't necessarily agree on lighting, cameras, lenses, technique, etc. >>
I agree. A shopping list of supplies will only get you so far. You have to discover what gives you the results you want, not just in the pictures, but also with respect to your personal workflow.
Keeper of the VAM Catalog • Professional Coin Imaging • Prime Number Set • World Coins in Early America • British Trade Dollars • Variety Attribution
Not really looking for much these days but if I were, it might be a toner.
http://macrocoins.com
"La Vostra Nonna Ha Faccia Del Fungo"